I place a cut at an angle in the middle of the sheet and then pry the plastic up . It seems to come away from the mid sheet easier than the edges. I peel it off nearly completely the place it back down again. Worked every time so far.
Had a large number of Carthaginan shield with the same problem. I found that pressing sticky tape hard against the plastic film (using the blunt end of an old paintbrush to really get the pressure on). The plastic film lifts off when the sticky tape is pulled off.
I’ve used these myself and must admit I’m not a real fan. You have to cut around the image. When you stick each side down on the shield the images don’t always line up. The art on the decals looks good though.
Thanks a lot for the help, I have some old decals I got for free for buying a clash of spears Roman starter pack and I am wondering if I will have the same problem, probably yes so this is really good help. Is there also any possibility I could scan this transfers and print them using special decal paper myself? I know quality prob will not be the same but could be cheaper option too in case they don’t work
Hello, big fan of your channel and love the battle reports you've posted. In this video you're challenge with the a "film" on the LBMS shield decals. Ok, may have another solution to maybe help with that. My background is a BIG time modeler and and gamer like yourself, and I've dealt with a variety of decals. LBMS decals are no different. Long story short, you have to know what you'e dealing with. On the back of the decal sheet I notice it said Laser Jet Clear. So the laser jet means it was printed through a laser jet printer, like something at your work. A bit pricey for home use. The quality of a laser jet is superb. Next is the clear film or paper it was printed on. There are a variety of films out there and clear is the standard. Unlike regular tank or aircraft model kits, the manufacturer/printer of the decal has the ability to print "white". Laser jet, nor ink jet printers doesn't have that ability. So in this case a clear film decal sheet was used to print your decals designs; which means you have to cut out each damn decal. This also means you have to have a white background surface to apply the clear decal. If the decal was printed with "white", then you can apply your decal to any colored surface. White is needed to make the color pop, or the design get lost on the color surface. I know this is long, so have you tried using any of the "Microscale " decal solutions? There are a few, but "Micro Sol" and "Micro Set" works well when applying decals. BTW, highly recommend using a pair of tweezers when handling the decal. The oils from your fingers is hindering the adhesion of the decal film to the surface, which I take it why your using PVA to secure. A decal solution helps with adhesion. Think of it like this, it's like applying a tinted film on your window. Spray a solution and squeegee it out to adhere to the glass. Same concept. Once the decal solution is applied to the surface, then apply your decal. press down with a tissue/paper towel. Apply another coat of the decal solution. The solutions also helps to "soften" the decal to conform to of surfaces...like shields. And maybe, just may, the chemicals in the solution will release that film. That film is needed to keep the ink on the decal film when you drop it in the water. It's really odd that there is such a thick film on the decal sheet surface. I've had many years of experience with decals, as I print my own on an ink jet for the many thousands of shields I've done for my armies. I typically would spray a 4-5 thin gloss clear coats. Anyways, hope this help and take care.
You seem to know a lot unlike me, having physical copies misled, it would be possible to scan the decals and print them with special decal paper? Thanks
@gromuk4849 Certainly you can download pictures of anything off the web and apply to a decal sheet and print. I start by using MS PowerPoint presentation - too easy to move and size pictures. I do a test print on regular paper, and check if I got th size right. Once you get the size right, then just print. Once completed you can use a clear coat rattle can if you don't have a special clear spray for decals. Let dry, cut out and dip in water...then apply to the model. Too easy my friend.
I place a cut at an angle in the middle of the sheet and then pry the plastic up . It seems to come away from the mid sheet easier than the edges. I peel it off nearly completely the place it back down again. Worked every time so far.
Shayne Treasure I’ve tried that also but again,.. no joy.
@@CheckYourLeaderTV bugger. Good last resort effort then on the PVA method. Thanks for sharing
Shayne Treasure yeah,.. it’s pretty much a ‘last resort’.
Most beautiful close ups, splendid shield transfers...😍😍
Had a large number of Carthaginan shield with the same problem. I found that pressing sticky tape hard against the plastic film (using the blunt end of an old paintbrush to really get the pressure on). The plastic film lifts off when the sticky tape is pulled off.
Dr Carl A. Gibson yes,.. tried that. No joy ☹️
I’ve used these myself and must admit I’m not a real fan. You have to cut around the image. When you stick each side down on the shield the images don’t always line up.
The art on the decals looks good though.
Thanks a lot for the help, I have some old decals I got for free for buying a clash of spears Roman starter pack and I am wondering if I will have the same problem, probably yes so this is really good help. Is there also any possibility I could scan this transfers and print them using special decal paper myself? I know quality prob will not be the same but could be cheaper option too in case they don’t work
Hello, big fan of your channel and love the battle reports you've posted. In this video you're challenge with the a "film" on the LBMS shield decals. Ok, may have another solution to maybe help with that. My background is a BIG time modeler and and gamer like yourself, and I've dealt with a variety of decals. LBMS decals are no different. Long story short, you have to know what you'e dealing with. On the back of the decal sheet I notice it said Laser Jet Clear. So the laser jet means it was printed through a laser jet printer, like something at your work. A bit pricey for home use. The quality of a laser jet is superb. Next is the clear film or paper it was printed on. There are a variety of films out there and clear is the standard. Unlike regular tank or aircraft model kits, the manufacturer/printer of the decal has the ability to print "white". Laser jet, nor ink jet printers doesn't have that ability. So in this case a clear film decal sheet was used to print your decals designs; which means you have to cut out each damn decal. This also means you have to have a white background surface to apply the clear decal. If the decal was printed with "white", then you can apply your decal to any colored surface. White is needed to make the color pop, or the design get lost on the color surface. I know this is long, so have you tried using any of the "Microscale " decal solutions? There are a few, but "Micro Sol" and "Micro Set" works well when applying decals. BTW, highly recommend using a pair of tweezers when handling the decal. The oils from your fingers is hindering the adhesion of the decal film to the surface, which I take it why your using PVA to secure. A decal solution helps with adhesion. Think of it like this, it's like applying a tinted film on your window. Spray a solution and squeegee it out to adhere to the glass. Same concept. Once the decal solution is applied to the surface, then apply your decal. press down with a tissue/paper towel. Apply another coat of the decal solution. The solutions also helps to "soften" the decal to conform to of surfaces...like shields. And maybe, just may, the chemicals in the solution will release that film. That film is needed to keep the ink on the decal film when you drop it in the water. It's really odd that there is such a thick film on the decal sheet surface. I've had many years of experience with decals, as I print my own on an ink jet for the many thousands of shields I've done for my armies. I typically would spray a 4-5 thin gloss clear coats. Anyways, hope this help and take care.
You seem to know a lot unlike me, having physical copies misled, it would be possible to scan the decals and print them with special decal paper? Thanks
@gromuk4849 Certainly you can download pictures of anything off the web and apply to a decal sheet and print. I start by using MS PowerPoint presentation - too easy to move and size pictures. I do a test print on regular paper, and check if I got th size right. Once you get the size right, then just print. Once completed you can use a clear coat rattle can if you don't have a special clear spray for decals. Let dry, cut out and dip in water...then apply to the model. Too easy my friend.