i tried washing my motherboard before but i did not use tap water. i bought a gallon of distilled water. washed the board with dishwashing liquid and dried the board up with a heat gun. the board is still working until now. thanks for this video.
To anybody else watching this video, this is an absolutely horrendous way to clean any type of PCB. Tap water contains so many minerals and impurities that while it may look like your system is functioning for a while, oxidation and corrosion is building up that can cause a short circuit that can not only destroy the motherboard, but many things attached to it; memory, video card, power supply, and SSD/HDD. If you have to clean a board, use the purest alcohol solution you can find, and in the smallest amount and region possible. Also make sure to dry clean the area first to remove as much of the contaminate as possible before using the alcohol. If there is contamination under a large chip, you're going to have to clean by soaking the chip in alcohol, letting it sit for a bit, then using air to blow the alcohol out from under the chip. Just letting it dry will leave the junk underneath. Do this multiple times until the alcohol coming out is clean of contaminants. If you HAVE to soak the whole board, follow the same dry clean first, then alcohol directions, but when it is submerged, you want to start giving the whole board some side to side and rocking motion to knock that stuff loose and off. Depending on location, you can also use a very soft toothbrush to help in this. DO NOT SCRUB. Just pretend you're a paleontologist uncovering some velociraptor bones, gentle strokes. You're removing soup/soda/bong water not trying to scrape off the solder mask (conformal coating on some boards). Take the board out and blow out from under the large chips, the CPU/MEM socket, and the IO ports. Let this dry on its side for about thirty minutes. Now the next step is something I have done, but it can be dangerous if done incorrectly, I would take a reflow gun and set it to the lowest temp (100°C) and from a distance of several inches and at varying air speeds, go over the entire board, front and back, until the entire board was heated up to a "warm" temperature. Not blistering hot and not cool. This helps with making sure there is no stubborn 1% or 9% of water (Depending on which isopropyl alcohol you use) stuck in some of the VIAs (vertical interconnect access) holes or between two solder balls or in a little nook or cranny of a slot/socket. After all that, let it cool down to room temperature and try to fire it up again. If you still have no joy after all that, assuming you didn't test the memory/CPU/PSU/CMOS battery/monitor/video cable first, it's probably time for a new motherboard.
It's no myth Farben - I have fixed quite a few boards this way. To finish the job nicely, I would also change the metal frame around the CPU socket - I always keep these from scrap boards and they come in useful.
Hi Mike - can you tell me which videos please so I can check to see if they are lower than the others. Also if the low audio affecst the whole video or just part of it. I'm trying hard to get the audio level right. Thanks
@@LearnElectronicsRepair it was this video and it did get better later. I’m sorry I can’t be more specific. I’m going to go back in my history to see if I can find what it was. Now I’m thinking it might have been my environment as I watch on my tv in my living room. Depending on the time of day it can be noisy due to air conditioning running. Anyway I’ll try to gather more information and let you know. I hope this helpful. Btw I just started watching your channel and have added you to my regular watch. I dabble in vintage audio repair but troubleshooting is relative and I can still learn from you and the experience you obviously have. The video 500w ATX PSU 5V Standby ok…LER#88. My volume level will vary from about 15 to 20 typically but this video it’s up around 47. The range of volume on my Samsung set is from 0-100
Heya, sorry but I'm gone say this, richard get your self a small vacuumcleaner maybe even at the car boot, maybe even as a repair, yes I know they problebly will be durty so you have to clean it sorry. lol
Hmm that didn't stop many other motherboards from bleeping is there is a debug card fitted - I'm not saying it may not happen on some specific board. I'll prove or disprove this on my next video. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair it is ... more or less board specific, since every bios has a slightly different behavior with those cards, then apart from that it depends on where you plug it in, pci, pci-e, pins, etc. depending on the bus you connect it to it will react differntly. I got one from china for a few bucks and with some board it beeps, some don't.. speaking of logical units.. huh! But atm getting frusted with an ASUS Crosshair V Formula that wont show any code on my Analizer Card, but not sure if that's related to that I don't have a FX CPU connected to it cause I don't have any here atm and with an old Athlon CPU it wont post... such a shame, this board..
i tried washing my motherboard before but i did not use tap water. i bought a gallon of distilled water. washed the board with dishwashing liquid and dried the board up with a heat gun. the board is still working until now. thanks for this video.
To anybody else watching this video, this is an absolutely horrendous way to clean any type of PCB. Tap water contains so many minerals and impurities that while it may look like your system is functioning for a while, oxidation and corrosion is building up that can cause a short circuit that can not only destroy the motherboard, but many things attached to it; memory, video card, power supply, and SSD/HDD.
If you have to clean a board, use the purest alcohol solution you can find, and in the smallest amount and region possible. Also make sure to dry clean the area first to remove as much of the contaminate as possible before using the alcohol. If there is contamination under a large chip, you're going to have to clean by soaking the chip in alcohol, letting it sit for a bit, then using air to blow the alcohol out from under the chip. Just letting it dry will leave the junk underneath. Do this multiple times until the alcohol coming out is clean of contaminants.
If you HAVE to soak the whole board, follow the same dry clean first, then alcohol directions, but when it is submerged, you want to start giving the whole board some side to side and rocking motion to knock that stuff loose and off. Depending on location, you can also use a very soft toothbrush to help in this. DO NOT SCRUB. Just pretend you're a paleontologist uncovering some velociraptor bones, gentle strokes. You're removing soup/soda/bong water not trying to scrape off the solder mask (conformal coating on some boards). Take the board out and blow out from under the large chips, the CPU/MEM socket, and the IO ports. Let this dry on its side for about thirty minutes. Now the next step is something I have done, but it can be dangerous if done incorrectly, I would take a reflow gun and set it to the lowest temp (100°C) and from a distance of several inches and at varying air speeds, go over the entire board, front and back, until the entire board was heated up to a "warm" temperature. Not blistering hot and not cool. This helps with making sure there is no stubborn 1% or 9% of water (Depending on which isopropyl alcohol you use) stuck in some of the VIAs (vertical interconnect access) holes or between two solder balls or in a little nook or cranny of a slot/socket. After all that, let it cool down to room temperature and try to fire it up again.
If you still have no joy after all that, assuming you didn't test the memory/CPU/PSU/CMOS battery/monitor/video cable first, it's probably time for a new motherboard.
Keep up the good work, great stuff
Thanks, will do!
Richard and his magic hands, which gets stuff just to work, absolut fantastic! haha
apart from getting the sound to work on the first half of this video LOL.. Yeah I've known for some years I tend to scare things into working....
thanks
VOLUME UP !!!!
Nice video,sir
Thanks and welcome
I've always thought washing the boards to fix them was a myth but I guess it can work when the board is in a bad state with all that rust.
It's no myth Farben - I have fixed quite a few boards this way. To finish the job nicely, I would also change the metal frame around the CPU socket - I always keep these from scrap boards and they come in useful.
Fucking genius... He spent 17 mins to figure out that mobo needs RAM to booy. LMAO
What wrong with the sound?
For new viewers a headset improves the volume from 7.05
Maybe it’s me here in San Diego, CA but the audio level has been low on 2 of the videos
Hi Mike - can you tell me which videos please so I can check to see if they are lower than the others. Also if the low audio affecst the whole video or just part of it. I'm trying hard to get the audio level right. Thanks
@@LearnElectronicsRepair it was this video and it did get better later. I’m sorry I can’t be more specific. I’m going to go back in my history to see if I can find what it was. Now I’m thinking it might have been my environment as I watch on my tv in my living room. Depending on the time of day it can be noisy due to air conditioning running. Anyway I’ll try to gather more information and let you know. I hope this helpful. Btw I just started watching your channel and have added you to my regular watch. I dabble in vintage audio repair but troubleshooting is relative and I can still learn from you and the experience you obviously have.
The video 500w ATX PSU 5V Standby ok…LER#88. My volume level will vary from about 15 to 20 typically but this video it’s up around 47. The range of volume on my Samsung set is from 0-100
Heya, sorry but I'm gone say this, richard get your self a small vacuumcleaner maybe even at the car boot, maybe even as a repair, yes I know they problebly will be durty so you have to clean it sorry. lol
It didn't bleep because you have a debug card connected. In that case the bleeper should be connected to that card, not to the pc.
Hmm that didn't stop many other motherboards from bleeping is there is a debug card fitted - I'm not saying it may not happen on some specific board. I'll prove or disprove this on my next video. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair it is ... more or less board specific, since every bios has a slightly different behavior with those cards, then apart from that it depends on where you plug it in, pci, pci-e, pins, etc. depending on the bus you connect it to it will react differntly. I got one from china for a few bucks and with some board it beeps, some don't.. speaking of logical units.. huh! But atm getting frusted with an ASUS Crosshair V Formula that wont show any code on my Analizer Card, but not sure if that's related to that I don't have a FX CPU connected to it cause I don't have any here atm and with an old Athlon CPU it wont post... such a shame, this board..
Same with me ASUS P7P55D LE
Non ho capito dove era il problema
me neither