I have a 1975 Craftsman R.A.S., I have been using it for about two years now and I wouldn't trade it for 10 of the compound miter saws. I understand the point about the space that it consumes. That's why I had to rearrange my shop twice. But now it lives on an end wall, with a door on the right side so I now have 20feet to the right from the blade. As well as 18 feet on the left side from the blade. I use it for rips, cross cuts, miter, dado, and to re-saw planks to thin them down. Sometimes I use it to re-saw a blank for a paper thin veneer. I Do actually have the miter saw, but it currently just sits under a bench. As for the horizontal parallel setup with the blade, OH HELL NO ! Not Me ! Great video. HAVE A BLESSED DAY. THANKS.😎🇺🇸
@@AnthonyAnthony-tk4ye Perfect timing. I am currently in the middle of moving my R.A.S. back to where it was originally set up in my shop. But this time I am building a 19 foot table with the saw in the middle. So now my shop looks like it exploded. You never realize how many tools that you have collected until you try to "Rearrange" them. I am thinking about selling the 1981 model so I don't have to build another table/bench for it.
My preference is the RAS, but I respect your decision. I’m glad you recognize the benefit of the RAS and decided not to get rid of it. I hope you find room to set it up again in the future!
Great objective comparison. Worth noting that IF you need to rip wood, RAS takes much less real-estate than b/c can you dispense with the addition of a tablesaw and the RAS can remain against a wall rather than taking prime resale-estate in center of workshop.
Hi. I have both saws the Radial Arm Saw is my go to machine. My Mitre Saw is mainly for Carpentry work for fine woodworking it's the Radial Saw, dados and half lap joints you can't beat it! I enjoy your videos Take Care
I’m familiar with working with a radial arm saw. Truly a very versatile machine. With that said there some setups I would never recommend. When my father passed I had access to his extensive array of power tools to rehome. I just couldn’t justify bringing one home, my garage shop just doesn’t have room for all the goodies available. There were tools I deemed of more value to my shop. With all that said, if could I would own a radial arm saw. When I bought my miter saw, a compound miter saw was not even imagined yet.
Thank you for giving me the will to proceed keeping a Craftsman 10" RAS that was giving to me over this past weekend by my brother-in-law. Unfortunately in delivering it from the family farm, 25 miles away, it came loose from the bindings on our pickup truck at 70 mph and was damaged, minor "road rash", so I decided to retrieve the damaged interior part and was relieved that the pieces were necessary, but replaceable. Good news...I now have COMPLETE knowledge of all the working parts and it's cleanup time👍👍👍👍👍👍😂😂
I have a RAS that I use in my small shop, it is indeed large and it is very versatile as well, it will do what a table saw and a mitre saw will do. The motor in my table saw burned out but the only thing I used it for was rip cuts, I have two mitre saws for cross cuts, thinking of getting rid of them. As far as dust collection goes, the UA-cam channel is full of videos where guys have built dust collection for the mitre saw and table so a dust collection system for the RAS is possible. I would not give up my RAS.
I grew up with a radial arm saw and used it (under guidance) from when I was tall enough to reach it until my early 20s. For my own shop, I have a Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw because it is just inherently safer and more accurate. My grandfather broke his finger one day on his RAS due to kickback. He just set it and splinted with popsicle sticks and kept on working...
I’m still trying to decide which one. I suppose I would be better off with the radial arm saw because that’s what I’ve used in the past. never used one of those sliding miter saws. $ price of a new radial arm saw is out of sight. on the other hand, I really like the idea of the radial arm saw due to the fact that I can rip with it, and not have to buy a table saw. Any suggestions?
Here in Portugal second hand RAS's are easy to find and relatively cheap. I recently bought an Omga 600. This is an industrial quality machine. Eight bearings, bronze bushings, and ultra sturdy construction. New 8000 Euros, second hand in the low hundreds. There are fashions in woodworking machines, presently the RAS is as out of fashion as a mullet cut.
I'd say radial arm saw because they can also rip lumber. Had I known all they were capable of doing before just recently I would have never bought the contractor saw I have now as it takes up more of my garage space than what the RAS would, especially considering I already have a ready built space for it between work benches where my old miter chop saw now resides. I'd simply have to adjust the height of the stand of the chop saw to fit the RAS.
Good video. Radial arm saws have always had bad press coverage due to the inexperienced operators. I think you've made the right choice in today's safety conscious environment. Glad to see your keeping the RAS. Enjoyed watching your comparison. Tony
With my RAS I have it next to the miter saw. The RAS table is at the same level as the miter saw fence. When the RAS is not in use I move the arm 90 degrees so it is out of the way against the back wall.
I've been a wood cutter for 45 years. I've had both table saws and radial arm saws . My decision to get rid of my table saw were more bad situations cutting, and contrary to many opinions about the Radial I prefer it to rip, especially thin strips or anything close to the fence. The fence on a Radial can be made 6' long if you want it , but you're limited on a table saw. I've own and have run a manufacturing business for 35 years and have always had a Radial arm saw in my shop. No injuries, but that can happen. OSHA has been through my shop and just has been recently and commented that the Radial saw is safer and they are changing requirements for the table saw. Most all issues are kick back. The Radial you stand to the side and not inline with the board . All radials are not equal . I run a 12" commercial saw . Many cheap radials are dangerous for power reasons and how they lock tight . 😎
@@GTWoodshop Some experience unfortunately is from close calls or just being reckless, but I learned from them. I've owned and operated a manufacturing business for 35 years and have had only one finger loss. It wasn't from a saw but my employee wasn't using his restraints. I have a very good record with OSHA and they are welcome anytime in my shop. I'm considered a safety freak. It's tough enough watching yourself , but trusting someone else is a whole different thing. I've only allowed a few to run my Radial. My closest call to losing a finger was on a band saw. The Radial can do many things but I stay to basic cuts and I question something's done on a Radial, but most bad kicks are from a table saw. Never do anything on any saw beyond your comfort level. Learning by mistakes is no way to understand powered equipment. Watch out for pull and cuts . If you're chopping and it's not locked out of the pull the blade comes to you fast . I do have one but I'm more cautious with that than my Radial. Good luck and be safe 😎❗
@@FantomWireBrian That's a brilliant phrase that I well have to use. 'Learning from your mistakes is no way to understand powered equipment.' Thanks Brian. 👍👍
There are so many advantages to the radial arm saw, that if the question is 'One or the Other?', it wins hands-down on versatility. Having both is ideal!
Great video Sir. I like the way you pointed all the uses of both tools and clearly outlined the safety concerns with the radial arm saw. My radial arm saw is 3+ decades old, but it still is a valuable tool for specific cuts. I created a dedicated dust collection system that is 90% efficient. Modern sliding compound miter saws are easier and have improved safety features. I wonder if these improved features have drawn some users into complacency. I know I’m VERY careful with EVERY cut on the radial arm saw. I admit to being less concerned with the miter saw… something I need to change.
Hi Dan, good to know another RAD owner and fan, they are a great tool aren't they, and I agree with your comment re the mitre saw, I must change that as well. 👍
I just bought a 10" Craftsman RAS for $50. I'm making a new table for it out of pine boards that I'm gluing together just because I can. I started thinking about them for about a year before I bought mine and just couldn't see the big thrash about how dangerous they are. I think they're safer than a table saw.
I started using the RAS in 1966. I bought an SCMS in 2012. Hated it. I now have found and am updating an RAS. I will trade a bit of fussiness for the versatility.
Glad to hear you mention tenons. I'm looking to cut a bunch of tenons on thicker stock, so the height adjustment and radial angle adjust on the RAS look ideal. But is there a radial angle gauge on the arm to measure the miter angle? .
Hi HM, there is a scale on top of the column, and a scale at the very front of the motor to aid in setting compound cuts so I would say you're covered. (on this saw, but I would check on any that you plan to purchase) 👍
Thanks for the deep dive. I have a spot staked out for my RAS although it is not set up at the moment. Like you I grew up on the machine, and just can’t bring myself to part with it.
Nice review. The RAS was my first stationary machine and was a Sears Craftsman (aka - crapsman) machine purchased in 1979. I sold it 30 years ago because it would not hold its settings so I ended up using it for rough cutting stock to length and it took up way too much room for that use. It was replaced by a DeWalt compound miter saw (not sliding) and I still have it. We usually get what we pay for and I certainly did but, I was a newb at the time and just didn't know any better. It is clear that the Dewalt is of much better quality than what I had. As an important note, I suspect that most people just grab any blade they have and put it on the RAS and this blade is typically designed for a tablesaw with about a 20 degree rake angle (my RAS actually came with that type of blade). Using this type of blade tends to propel the carriage toward the user making it unsafe. If folks would use a blade with a 5 degree rake (or even negative rake), this would improve the safety perspective of the RAS greatly. While I do not miss the RAS I had, if the Graule RAS was available in North America, I would find a place for it in my shop. Steve
In the USA, the RAS is so maligned by the ignorant or presumptive that a good one can be had for very low price. This has been the case for quite some time. About 20 years ago, I bought first a DeWalt 10" for $150, and then a more powerful 12" Craftsman for $50. It turned out that the 12" Craftsman is very good, as long the arm is not swung. It cuts very accurate 90 degree repeatably. The stop that makes 90 degree cuts accurate will make the stop for 45 degree off slightly, may be by 0.1 degree. Excellent dadoing on the narrow dimension of a long board. This a sliding compound can never do.
Some thoughts. Space- you could rotate the RAS arm 90deg to take it out of the way. The CMS needs a higher table (or lower mounting) which can be inconvenient. Some versions of the RAS gives 600mm crosscut- so can crosscut most cabinetry. So the RAS can replace the CMS, the table saw, and the track-saw/MFT system. It can also be used against the wall, unlike a table saw which has to occupy the middle of the shop. All great for the smaller shop- one saw to rule them all.... The dust extraction is poor on the RAS because, as you say, it has not been developed. Building a dust extractor that tracks with the blade would not be difficult, especially with 3D printing. It is not great on a CMS either...
I wouldn't really do anything other than crosscut on the RAS, but you have a much longer cut, you can dado, and it is so much more precise (build heavier)
I bought my Craftsman radial arm saw (RAS) in 1975. It was my first major power tool. I use it to this day. I bought a contractor-style table saw maybe 15 years ago, primarily for rip cuts. My RAS is a dedicated crosscut saw, and I love using it. I’ve grown up with it! 😊 I was thinking of upgrading to a cabinet-style table saw, but bought a Festool track saw a few years ago instead. Excellent for accurately breaking down sheet goods. I did build a crosscut sled for my table saw to enable the cutting of small pieces, which can be difficult or dangerous with a RAS.
Great video, lots of information and a pleasure to watch as always. Looks like your French cleat system is starting to take shape, will we get an update video? I'm rather curious :)
Nice one Graham, love the intro lol 😂 Rad saws are great BUT I think they have had there time now when you consider the alternatives, I would say you have made the right choice in putting it back into storage as they do take up a lot of space & as you said they take time to set up.
If you have grown up using a radial arm saw, then you know how good it is for ripping. It is also extremely safe when used in ripping mode. See video entitled "Push Board for Ripping on Radial Arm Saw". So, I suggest putting both the mitre saw and that that humungous cabinet saw in the background in storage. Think of the room that would create in your shop.
For ripping plywood surely a track saw is better or a panel saw? Ripping PSE is safer on the handsaw and then clean up on the surface planer I thought radial arms saws were really beat at 90 degree cross cutting where they excel
Great video. Such a hard choice? I have always noted that real good timber yards almost always have a radial arm saw, rather than a miter saw. My first was a miter chop saw. So limited compared with the Kapex. As for dust extraction, found the Kapex great unless you have to remove the rubber dust shoot. Necessary when needing deeper fence. Have a glass of Bourban, you know you deserve it!!
I'm sure that somewhere in the instruction manual of the old RAS putting the blade parallel to the table was a cutting method for the machine, a terrible(!) use. However, there is another usage for that angle and it is to put a sanding disc on and sand large (twice the width of the sanding disc?) flat boards. Sanding in the 'right' direction will move the piece securely to the fence as it is fed (rip sanding?) DO THAT with a compound miter saw, it can't, table saw, nope. So, RAS can if done correctly take the place of a planer. Slower, yes, but for the hobbyist one less tool needed for the shop.
@@James-dv1df That's a big generalization. I would say that a RAS does take a little more to dial in to make sure it cuts accurately. This is because the RAS can do longer and more types of cuts than a miter saw. There are good quality miter saws out there, but many low end to mid-grade miter saws flex and lose accuracy when making longer and deeper cuts.
Question , Which saw will still be here 50 years from now? After having farmed for close to 50 years the idea of Safety being the responsibility of lawyers putting guards on things misses the point. If you are going to stop thinking when using a tool or depending on someone else to keep you safe is completely unbelievable. Dependable accuracy is is your responsibility in knowing your tool and setting it up properly. I own both ,if it was only one? A cast iron frame RAS! I own a 67 year old Dewalt RAS , 60 year old Delta RAS, and a brand new 12” Makita compound.
I always wanted a radial arm saw, agree with other comments here that from a safety view point they are not the best. I think you need a very special modern equivalent to match its flexibility.
Its a good informative video. But when we listen to it with earphones, the sound is coming only from one side. I thought I should mention it because its easy to miss it if you only use external speakers.
From 1920 to 2024... finally an up grade/new dimension to the icon of all saws. DeWalt's Radial Arm Sawmill ua-cam.com/video/k7cBLq1rgPo/v-deo.html I can still incorporate a table to this design and take it anywhere. @ 9:26 the horizontal position does have a use.
The RAS is the superior tool for those who have the character of caution and respect for cutting with versatility with a circular saw blade. The RAS is safe if one is never in a hurry and is knowledgeable, always complying with safety measures. The RAS is not more dangerous than a TS, in my experience. If you are working under contract and has to hire a crew consisting of varying characters, and finish a project on tight deadline, a compound sliding miter saw is better.
@@GTWoodshop Horizontal drilling is also one safe and important feature of the RAS. This can be done with the saw in the rip position (then one moves the work) and in the crosscut position (then one moves the saw motor along the arm). One thing good about my Craftsman over the Dewalt is that I could find a drill chuck for the Craftsman easier and cheaply. The Dewalt takes a chuck that is very hard to find. Molding with profiled cutters is a feature more demanding on safety considerations. Some profiles work only on the RAS, not the TS, those whose profile has a part closer to the arbor than the TS allows.
Actually the blade tilted 90° is great for making tenons on larger posts.... nothing wrong with it, inexperienced people shouldn't be operating machinery, and in today's world it's not too hard to watch a few videos for FREE here and elsewhere on how to operate it safely
Just an fyi. The down position is for attachments . Adding a chuck to make it into a drill press , spindle sander and several other attachments. To use a blade in this position would be extreamly foolish and dangerous ! The biggest problem with the radial arm saw is its the most dangerious tool in my shop. Over head blade you pull foward has caused many to loose fingers and even hands. I love mine too but you must be extreamly careful ! I dont like ripping on it either !
Oops made a wrong comparison. The Radial is far safer than a pull and chop saw. I had the top DeWalt pull and chop . I was ok operating it , but if you leave it in pull when chopping it can be a surprise. The chops also open up further than your cut. A Radial stays at the same level set for the cut . I pull through on both saws but I've seen people push through to cut on a Radial . Wrong on both . I've heard people doing that on a table saw and there's only one way that board will go . Up 😳❗
I can buy a sliding mitre saw for £100. A radial arm saw several thousand. Decades ago I chose a Sedgwick table saw. I have no regrets. My friend bought a radial arm saw. He had trouble setting it up accurately and it now gathers dust. My Sedgwick has had one new blade. I mostly rip with it and crosscut with the mitre saw. Having a sacrificial table puts me off a radial arm saw.
I'm watching your video because I inherited a bunch of power tools from their deceased owner and one of them is a radial arm saw, so I'm looking for all the info I can get on what it does and how. From what I have researched thus far, it was invented as a tool that would do everything and thus would be attractive to the man who could only afford one power tool and had to get the best bang for his buck. This would make criticisms about how much space it took up in the shop less relevant. The tradeoff is that if you were at all careless, it would maim you horribly.
You are supposed to stand to the RIGHT of the blade carriage with your left arm locked straight pulling the carriage through the cut with controlled resistance.... there is no way this saw should be dangerous if you know how to operate it correctly. It is a crosscut saw and nothing more.
GT my man..... your radial arm saw is not safe to operate, how can you cross cut a piece of wood with the blade in front of the fence?..... starting at 9:46 on the video you make no sense, the fence should and always be in front of the blade...... with the blade behind the fence I can place the piece of wood on the table against the fence and make the cut. If you're not going to rip with the radial saw then stick with the miter saw. The radial saw looks a little to big for your shop mate.
Hi Victor, you are dead right, the RAS is to big for my current workshop, as mentioned it was purchased many many years ago and I just can't bring myself to get rid. ITs back in storage now until I can extend or get a bigger workshop then it will be out again. 👍
@@GTWoodshop GT glad that the saw is not being use that way for your safety. Lets get that beautiful machine in your shop and video it working with a few cuts.
So... that plastic blade guard will stay down if your hand touches it? Come on. What is it guarding? What injury has a dumb piece of plastic like that ever prevented? Stupid safety police can't even get safety right. They sure like to peddle a false sense of security though. A table saw can't cut off your fingers because... oh crap! I should have been paying attention. Has anyone seen my fingers? I should blame this on the machine. It makes me feel less stupid.
I have a 1975 Craftsman R.A.S., I have been using it for about two years now and I wouldn't trade it for 10 of the compound miter saws. I understand the point about the space that it consumes. That's why I had to rearrange my shop twice. But now it lives on an end wall, with a door on the right side so I now have 20feet to the right from the blade. As well as 18 feet on the left side from the blade. I use it for rips, cross cuts, miter, dado, and to re-saw planks to thin them down. Sometimes I use it to re-saw a blank for a paper thin veneer. I Do actually have the miter saw, but it currently just sits under a bench. As for the horizontal parallel setup with the blade, OH HELL NO ! Not Me ! Great video. HAVE A BLESSED DAY. THANKS.😎🇺🇸
Hi C, I know what you mean, once the RAS creeps into your life you'll forever miss it if iot goes. I wants mine back already. 👍
Lol funny thing about the space it takes up, as soon as a guy gets a miter saw in the shop they build a full wall Alter for it anyways….. 😂😂😂
@@AnthonyAnthony-tk4ye Perfect timing. I am currently in the middle of moving my R.A.S. back to where it was originally set up in my shop. But this time I am building a 19 foot table with the saw in the middle. So now my shop looks like it exploded. You never realize how many tools that you have collected until you try to "Rearrange" them. I am thinking about selling the 1981 model so I don't have to build another table/bench for it.
I like both to use which I have
My preference is the RAS, but I respect your decision. I’m glad you recognize the benefit of the RAS and decided not to get rid of it. I hope you find room to set it up again in the future!
Hi Brain, can't say to much (its a surprise) but keep a eye on the channel..... nudge nudge wink wink
Great objective comparison. Worth noting that IF you need to rip wood, RAS takes much less real-estate than b/c can you dispense with the addition of a tablesaw and the RAS can remain against a wall rather than taking prime resale-estate in center of workshop.
Radial arm saw all the way for me love them if used right
Great vid! I swing my RAS at 45 degrees to save space when not in use.
Hi. I have both saws the Radial Arm Saw is my go to machine. My Mitre Saw is mainly for Carpentry work
for fine woodworking it's the Radial Saw, dados and half lap joints you can't beat it! I enjoy your videos Take Care
Hi Mick, thank you. 😁👍
I’m familiar with working with a radial arm saw. Truly a very versatile machine. With that said there some setups I would never recommend. When my father passed I had access to his extensive array of power tools to rehome. I just couldn’t justify bringing one home, my garage shop just doesn’t have room for all the goodies available. There were tools I deemed of more value to my shop. With all that said, if could I would own a radial arm saw. When I bought my miter saw, a compound miter saw was not even imagined yet.
Thank you for giving me the will to proceed keeping a Craftsman 10" RAS that was giving to me over this past weekend by my brother-in-law. Unfortunately in delivering it from the family farm, 25 miles away, it came loose from the bindings on our pickup truck at 70 mph and was damaged, minor "road rash", so I decided to retrieve the damaged interior part and was relieved that the pieces were necessary, but replaceable. Good news...I now have COMPLETE knowledge of all the working parts and it's cleanup time👍👍👍👍👍👍😂😂
Awesome, enjoy. 👍👍
I have a RAS that I use in my small shop, it is indeed large and it is very versatile as well, it will do what a table saw and a mitre saw will do. The motor in my table saw burned out but the only thing I used it for was rip cuts, I have two mitre saws for cross cuts, thinking of getting rid of them. As far as dust collection goes, the UA-cam channel is full of videos where guys have built dust collection for the mitre saw and table so a dust collection system for the RAS is possible. I would not give up my RAS.
I grew up with a radial arm saw and used it (under guidance) from when I was tall enough to reach it until my early 20s. For my own shop, I have a Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw because it is just inherently safer and more accurate. My grandfather broke his finger one day on his RAS due to kickback. He just set it and splinted with popsicle sticks and kept on working...
I’m still trying to decide which one. I suppose I would be better off with the radial arm saw because that’s what I’ve used in the past. never used one of those sliding miter saws. $ price of a new radial arm saw is out of sight. on the other hand, I really like the idea of the radial arm saw due to the fact that I can rip with it, and not have to buy a table saw. Any suggestions?
Here in Portugal second hand RAS's are easy to find and relatively cheap. I recently bought an Omga 600. This is an industrial quality machine. Eight bearings, bronze bushings, and ultra sturdy construction. New 8000 Euros, second hand in the low hundreds. There are fashions in woodworking machines, presently the RAS is as out of fashion as a mullet cut.
I really like the fine adjust handle on the miter saw
It is not regular to common miter saw, only Festool
I'd say radial arm saw because they can also rip lumber. Had I known all they were capable of doing before just recently I would have never bought the contractor saw I have now as it takes up more of my garage space than what the RAS would, especially considering I already have a ready built space for it between work benches where my old miter chop saw now resides. I'd simply have to adjust the height of the stand of the chop saw to fit the RAS.
Good video. Radial arm saws have always had bad press coverage due to the inexperienced operators. I think you've made the right choice in today's safety conscious environment. Glad to see your keeping the RAS. Enjoyed watching your comparison. Tony
Hi Tony, Thank you. 😁
With my RAS I have it next to the miter saw. The RAS table is at the same level as the miter saw fence. When the RAS is not in use I move the arm 90 degrees so it is out of the way against the back wall.
Hi Mojo, that's a distinct possibility. 👍
Excellent video - thank you for sharing your knowledge
My Pleasure. 👍
I've been a wood cutter for 45 years. I've had both table saws and radial arm saws . My decision to get rid of my table saw were more bad situations cutting, and contrary to many opinions about the Radial I prefer it to rip, especially thin strips or anything close to the fence. The fence on a Radial can be made 6' long if you want it , but you're limited on a table saw. I've own and have run a manufacturing business for 35 years and have always had a Radial arm saw in my shop. No injuries, but that can happen. OSHA has been through my shop and just has been recently and commented that the Radial saw is safer and they are changing requirements for the table saw. Most all issues are kick back. The Radial you stand to the side and not inline with the board . All radials are not equal . I run a 12" commercial saw . Many cheap radials are dangerous for power reasons and how they lock tight . 😎
Hi Brian, thanks for the info, you obviously have a lot of experience to draw on. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Some experience unfortunately is from close calls or just being reckless, but I learned from them. I've owned and operated a manufacturing business for 35 years and have had only one finger loss. It wasn't from a saw but my employee wasn't using his restraints. I have a very good record with OSHA and they are welcome anytime in my shop. I'm considered a safety freak. It's tough enough watching yourself , but trusting someone else is a whole different thing. I've only allowed a few to run my Radial. My closest call to losing a finger was on a band saw. The Radial can do many things but I stay to basic cuts and I question something's done on a Radial, but most bad kicks are from a table saw. Never do anything on any saw beyond your comfort level. Learning by mistakes is no way to understand powered equipment. Watch out for pull and cuts . If you're chopping and it's not locked out of the pull the blade comes to you fast . I do have one but I'm more cautious with that than my Radial. Good luck and be safe 😎❗
@@FantomWireBrian That's a brilliant phrase that I well have to use. 'Learning from your mistakes is no way to understand powered equipment.' Thanks Brian. 👍👍
There are so many advantages to the radial arm saw, that if the question is 'One or the Other?', it wins hands-down on versatility. Having both is ideal!
Great video Sir. I like the way you pointed all the uses of both tools and clearly outlined the safety concerns with the radial arm saw. My radial arm saw is 3+ decades old, but it still is a valuable tool for specific cuts. I created a dedicated dust collection system that is 90% efficient. Modern sliding compound miter saws are easier and have improved safety features. I wonder if these improved features have drawn some users into complacency. I know I’m VERY careful with EVERY cut on the radial arm saw. I admit to being less concerned with the miter saw… something I need to change.
Hi Dan, good to know another RAD owner and fan, they are a great tool aren't they, and I agree with your comment re the mitre saw, I must change that as well. 👍
I just bought a 10" Craftsman RAS for $50. I'm making a new table for it out of pine boards that I'm gluing together just because I can. I started thinking about them for about a year before I bought mine and just couldn't see the big thrash about how dangerous they are. I think they're safer than a table saw.
Excellent comparison.
Hi Matthew, thank you. 👍
I started using the RAS in 1966. I bought an SCMS in 2012. Hated it. I now have found and am updating an RAS. I will trade a bit of fussiness for the versatility.
Glad to hear you mention tenons. I'm looking to cut a bunch of tenons on thicker stock, so the height adjustment and radial angle adjust on the RAS look ideal. But is there a radial angle gauge on the arm to measure the miter angle? .
Hi HM, there is a scale on top of the column, and a scale at the very front of the motor to aid in setting compound cuts so I would say you're covered. (on this saw, but I would check on any that you plan to purchase) 👍
@@GTWoodshop Thank you.
Thanks for the deep dive. I have a spot staked out for my RAS although it is not set up at the moment. Like you I grew up on the machine, and just can’t bring myself to part with it.
Hi Bowers, you know where I'm coming from. It will be setup again, to good to lose. 👍
Nice review. The RAS was my first stationary machine and was a Sears Craftsman (aka - crapsman) machine purchased in 1979. I sold it 30 years ago because it would not hold its settings so I ended up using it for rough cutting stock to length and it took up way too much room for that use. It was replaced by a DeWalt compound miter saw (not sliding) and I still have it. We usually get what we pay for and I certainly did but, I was a newb at the time and just didn't know any better. It is clear that the Dewalt is of much better quality than what I had. As an important note, I suspect that most people just grab any blade they have and put it on the RAS and this blade is typically designed for a tablesaw with about a 20 degree rake angle (my RAS actually came with that type of blade). Using this type of blade tends to propel the carriage toward the user making it unsafe. If folks would use a blade with a 5 degree rake (or even negative rake), this would improve the safety perspective of the RAS greatly. While I do not miss the RAS I had, if the Graule RAS was available in North America, I would find a place for it in my shop. Steve
Hi Steve, thanks. Thats a really valid point that omitted to mention, correct blade type is of absolute import. .👍
Firm grip on the head...got it!
The white knuckle grip of Death. 😁😁
In the USA, the RAS is so maligned by the ignorant or presumptive that a good one can be had for very low price. This has been the case for quite some time. About 20 years ago, I bought first a DeWalt 10" for $150, and then a more powerful 12" Craftsman for $50.
It turned out that the 12" Craftsman is very good, as long the arm is not swung. It cuts very accurate 90 degree repeatably. The stop that makes 90 degree cuts accurate will make the stop for 45 degree off slightly, may be by 0.1 degree. Excellent dadoing on the narrow dimension of a long board. This a sliding compound can never do.
Some thoughts.
Space- you could rotate the RAS arm 90deg to take it out of the way.
The CMS needs a higher table (or lower mounting) which can be inconvenient.
Some versions of the RAS gives 600mm crosscut- so can crosscut most cabinetry. So the RAS can replace the CMS, the table saw, and the track-saw/MFT system. It can also be used against the wall, unlike a table saw which has to occupy the middle of the shop. All great for the smaller shop- one saw to rule them all....
The dust extraction is poor on the RAS because, as you say, it has not been developed. Building a dust extractor that tracks with the blade would not be difficult, especially with 3D printing. It is not great on a CMS either...
Good points Mike, thanks. 👍
I wouldn't really do anything other than crosscut on the RAS, but you have a much longer cut, you can dado, and it is so much more precise (build heavier)
Nice video apart from the beginning, have always wondered if the radial arm saw would be any good but prefer a mitre saw myself in a smaller space
Hi Sam, thanks. Issues with the beginning? do tell.👍
Hi Sam, that's an oops, sorted now. 👍
But I bet you have a table saw!
@@brucewelty7684 and a track saw but why would that make a difference for cross cut? I wouldn't chop a 2*4 on a table saw
I bought my Craftsman radial arm saw (RAS) in 1975. It was my first major power tool. I use it to this day. I bought a contractor-style table saw maybe 15 years ago, primarily for rip cuts. My RAS is a dedicated crosscut saw, and I love using it. I’ve grown up with it! 😊
I was thinking of upgrading to a cabinet-style table saw, but bought a Festool track saw a few years ago instead. Excellent for accurately breaking down sheet goods. I did build a crosscut sled for my table saw to enable the cutting of small pieces, which can be difficult or dangerous with a RAS.
Great video, lots of information and a pleasure to watch as always. Looks like your French cleat system is starting to take shape, will we get an update video? I'm rather curious :)
Hi Corona, thanks and of course, hoping to do some more on it this week. 😁
Nice one Graham, love the intro lol 😂 Rad saws are great BUT I think they have had there time now when you consider the alternatives, I would say you have made the right choice in putting it back into storage as they do take up a lot of space & as you said they take time to set up.
Thanks George. 👍
Ah, I see what you mean, didn't I make the booboo.!
The "built in" dust extraction in the radial arm saw works better on ripping
If you have grown up using a radial arm saw, then you know how good it is for ripping. It is also extremely safe when used in ripping mode. See video entitled "Push Board for Ripping on Radial Arm Saw". So, I suggest putting both the mitre saw and that that humungous cabinet saw in the background in storage. Think of the room that would create in your shop.
For ripping plywood surely a track saw is better or a panel saw? Ripping PSE is safer on the handsaw and then clean up on the surface planer
I thought radial arms saws were really beat at 90 degree cross cutting where they excel
Great video. Such a hard choice?
I have always noted that real good timber yards almost always have a radial arm saw, rather than a miter saw.
My first was a miter chop saw. So limited compared with the Kapex. As for dust extraction, found the Kapex great unless you have to remove the rubber dust shoot. Necessary when needing deeper fence.
Have a glass of Bourban, you know you deserve it!!
Hi Barry, thanks. I'll accept the Bourbon rec, although been sampling the Spanish Brandy of late.......😜
I'm sure that somewhere in the instruction manual of the old RAS putting the blade parallel to the table was a cutting method for the machine, a terrible(!) use. However, there is another usage for that angle and it is to put a sanding disc on and sand large (twice the width of the sanding disc?) flat boards. Sanding in the 'right' direction will move the piece securely to the fence as it is fed (rip sanding?) DO THAT with a compound miter saw, it can't, table saw, nope. So, RAS can if done correctly take the place of a planer. Slower, yes, but for the hobbyist one less tool needed for the shop.
For me, the only advantage a mitre saw has over a RAS is portability. If it doesn't need to be portable, I'll take a RAS every time.
Never used one but heard people say they are a pain to adjust between angles and mitres compared too mitre saw
@@James-dv1df That's a big generalization. I would say that a RAS does take a little more to dial in to make sure it cuts accurately. This is because the RAS can do longer and more types of cuts than a miter saw. There are good quality miter saws out there, but many low end to mid-grade miter saws flex and lose accuracy when making longer and deeper cuts.
Question , Which saw will still be here 50 years from now? After having farmed for close to 50 years the idea of Safety being the responsibility of lawyers putting guards on things misses the point. If you are going to stop thinking when using a tool or depending on someone else to keep you safe is completely unbelievable. Dependable accuracy is is your responsibility in knowing your tool and setting it up properly. I own both ,if it was only one? A cast iron frame RAS! I own a 67 year old Dewalt RAS , 60 year old Delta RAS, and a brand new 12” Makita compound.
Miter Saw Make and Model shown?
Festool Kapex KS120.
I always wanted a radial arm saw, agree with other comments here that from a safety view point they are not the best. I think you need a very special modern equivalent to match its flexibility.
Hi Mike, thank you, with good safety practices though they are as good as..... 👍
Its a good informative video. But when we listen to it with earphones, the sound is coming only from one side. I thought I should mention it because its easy to miss it if you only use external speakers.
Hi Albarathur, thanks for the info. I have upgraded my mic and audio recording system since so hopefully the issue has gone away. 👍
RADIAL ARM FOR ME.
From 1920 to 2024... finally an up grade/new dimension to the icon of all saws.
DeWalt's Radial Arm Sawmill
ua-cam.com/video/k7cBLq1rgPo/v-deo.html
I can still incorporate a table to this design and take it anywhere.
@ 9:26 the horizontal position does have a use.
The RAS is the superior tool for those who have the character of caution and respect for cutting with versatility with a circular saw blade. The RAS is safe if one is never in a hurry and is knowledgeable, always complying with safety measures. The RAS is not more dangerous than a TS, in my experience.
If you are working under contract and has to hire a crew consisting of varying characters, and finish a project on tight deadline, a compound sliding miter saw is better.
Good points. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Horizontal drilling is also one safe and important feature of the RAS. This can be done with the saw in the rip position (then one moves the work) and in the crosscut position (then one moves the saw motor along the arm). One thing good about my Craftsman over the Dewalt is that I could find a drill chuck for the Craftsman easier and cheaply. The Dewalt takes a chuck that is very hard to find.
Molding with profiled cutters is a feature more demanding on safety considerations. Some profiles work only on the RAS, not the TS, those whose profile has a part closer to the arbor than the TS allows.
@@woodensurfer Yes, I have found it impossible to source some of the accessories supposedly availble for the Dewalt.👍
There is a vid (older than this one) about the fallacy of the dangers RAS vs Tablesaw.
@@brucewelty7684 Both dangerous
Actually the blade tilted 90° is great for making tenons on larger posts.... nothing wrong with it, inexperienced people shouldn't be operating machinery, and in today's world it's not too hard to watch a few videos for FREE here and elsewhere on how to operate it safely
Just an fyi. The down position is for attachments . Adding a chuck to make it into a drill press , spindle sander and several other attachments. To use a blade in this position would be extreamly foolish and dangerous ! The biggest problem with the radial arm saw is its the most dangerious tool in my shop. Over head blade you pull foward has caused many to loose fingers and even hands. I love mine too but you must be extreamly careful ! I dont like ripping on it either !
Oops made a wrong comparison. The Radial is far safer than a pull and chop saw. I had the top DeWalt pull and chop . I was ok operating it , but if you leave it in pull when chopping it can be a surprise. The chops also open up further than your cut. A Radial stays at the same level set for the cut . I pull through on both saws but I've seen people push through to cut on a Radial . Wrong on both . I've heard people doing that on a table saw and there's only one way that board will go . Up 😳❗
I can buy a sliding mitre saw for £100. A radial arm saw several thousand. Decades ago I chose a Sedgwick table saw. I have no regrets. My friend bought a radial arm saw. He had trouble setting it up accurately and it now gathers dust. My Sedgwick has had one new blade. I mostly rip with it and crosscut with the mitre saw. Having a sacrificial table puts me off a radial arm saw.
I heard same thing that keeping radial arm saws at 90 is was they are best for and not much else.
my radial arm saw wobble when crosscutting by craftsman. can't trust doing miter cuts. No problem doing miter on compound saw.
Blade issue??
Audio is muted for me and is not my phone.
Hi Raven, sorry about that, not sure why that would happen.
Now that 12 months have past, are you still content with the limits the SCMS places on you?
Hi Bruce, now there's a good question that just be worthy of a re-visit. 👍👍
I'm watching your video because I inherited a bunch of power tools from their deceased owner and one of them is a radial arm saw, so I'm looking for all the info I can get on what it does and how. From what I have researched thus far, it was invented as a tool that would do everything and thus would be attractive to the man who could only afford one power tool and had to get the best bang for his buck. This would make criticisms about how much space it took up in the shop less relevant. The tradeoff is that if you were at all careless, it would maim you horribly.
Hi Ensign, you're dead right there. 👍
You are supposed to stand to the RIGHT of the blade carriage with your left arm locked straight pulling the carriage through the cut with controlled resistance.... there is no way this saw should be dangerous if you know how to operate it correctly. It is a crosscut saw and nothing more.
GT my man..... your radial arm saw is not safe to operate, how can you cross cut a piece of wood with the blade in front of the fence?..... starting at 9:46 on the video you make no sense, the fence should and always be in front of the blade...... with the blade behind the fence I can place the piece of wood on the table against the fence and make the cut. If you're not going to rip with the radial saw then stick with the miter saw. The radial saw looks a little to big for your shop mate.
Hi Victor, you are dead right, the RAS is to big for my current workshop, as mentioned it was purchased many many years ago and I just can't bring myself to get rid. ITs back in storage now until I can extend or get a bigger workshop then it will be out again. 👍
@@GTWoodshop GT glad that the saw is not being use that way for your safety. Lets get that beautiful machine in your shop and video it working with a few cuts.
@@victorskunk4441 I am looking forward to it coming back out again, hopefully in the not too distant future. 👍
So... that plastic blade guard will stay down if your hand touches it? Come on. What is it guarding? What injury has a dumb piece of plastic like that ever prevented?
Stupid safety police can't even get safety right. They sure like to peddle a false sense of security though. A table saw can't cut off your fingers because... oh crap! I should have been paying attention. Has anyone seen my fingers? I should blame this on the machine. It makes me feel less stupid.
Indeed, all tools can be made unsafe if used incorrectly.