After several days of trying to get the boiler to start I watched your video and realised that the main synchro motor wasn't pushing the lever sufficiently to make contact with the switch that sends the "start signal." After changing the motor my system now fires up and I'm very grateful for your help.
Thank you so much Sebastian. Woke up this morning with my valve making loads of noise. Your descriptions and details were spot on and allowed me to diagnose a faulty motor and gave me the confidence to get a new one and fix it myself. Saved me £100 in callout. Brilliant.
Thank you Sebastian. I replaced a 2 port valve today and after watching your video it went like a dream and works perfectly. I must have saved myself £100 on a plumber.
Really helpful video. Good teaching skills. Easy and plain to understand. Thankfully my valve has a modern head so no water drainage needed. Thank you Sebastian.
Seb its an excellent description on your video . I changed the motor and saved over £180 quoted from the local plummer . The part was £9.79 ant it took 30 min to repair. Great video thanks
Nice and clear explanation. Just saved me an emergency call out over Easter in Freezing weather. The motor had jammed. Replaced with old one from shed and warm again. Many thanks
Just about changing the head I was not aware that old types have 4 screws it hapend once to my friend but now I understood why Thankyou very much for sharing such information
an excellent video which helped me not just understand how this thing works on my boiler but enabled me to fix my problem. Very clear and precise explanation - thank you very much!!!
Really appreciate your clear explanations. Over the course of a few days, we gradually realised we had heating, but only warm water. The auto/manual lever is stuck in the auto position (power on or off). Have ordered a replacement motor, and fingers crossed. Many thanks!!
I had found the problem by trial and error but this video is great for confiming my diy diagnosis.....and now I will not have to worry about the plumber getting back to me and I'm going to do it myself... Cheers mate Happy New Year!!
Very clear and informative video. Ordered new motor this morning (isn't turning under power) and simply buzzing away merrily. Great info on the micro-switch. Using the lever manually, the arm wasn't coming across far enough to depress the switch. All sorted now.
For the last 10 years or so, I have had issues with the Honeywell 3 Port Diverter valve, in that I have suddenly only had Hot Water and No Heating. On one or two occasions I replaced the top-plate of the diverter valve because the ball-valve swivel had become stiff, but on all other occasions I have replaced the Actuator Head to restore Central Heating. On one occasion more recently, I successfully replaced just the motor in the actuator head (which was a lot less expensive). However, last week I woke up to find that we had Central Heating upstairs only, and the downstairs radiators remaining cold. Naturally I feared that the circulation pump had finally failed after 25 years of loyal service; but as a first step, I removed the actuator head from the diverter valve to visually check that it was OK and that the ball-valve swivel worked freely. I re-assembled and switched on the boiler, but the same symptoms prevailed. Therefore, with the boiler still switched on and in Central Heating only mode, I checked the voltage on the circulation pump - ZERO!! - so the fault is somewhere else! With the supply to the burner disconnected (so that I could lift the control panel & it’s box of tricks out of the way) I removed the cover from the Diverter Valve Actuator Head, hoping to see how it worked when switching between C/H & H/W - it seemed to OK, but still no voltage at the circulation pump. With the intention of changing the Actuator Head yet again, I started to slacken the two screws securing the Actuator Head to the Valve Body, when I heard the Circulation Pump start, and yes! - 240 Volts at the pump!! Evidently the limit switch inside the actuator head was not being activated, but worked fine with the actuator head securing screws backed-off by about one turn. Leaving all as it now is, I put everything else back in place and reconnected the burner, and It’s now bee working normally for the past 6 days without the need to replace anything - just slacken 2 screws a bit! Long may it last!! Hope this might be of help to someone, but be VERY careful when working on the boiler with the power ON!! 19/02/23
Same issue. Motor was sticking before the lever made contact with the start switch. Changed the motor - now perfect! £19 for the motor; zero cost to fit. (Probably £100+ for call-out, parts and labour). Thanks
Brilliant video thank you , completely dismantled mine and it was only the paddle/valve not going fully over to heating and activating the second microswitch , all working brilliant now !
Give yourself a pat on the back. It’s just cost me £16 to fix my Honeywell synchro motor. The Corgi motor from toolstation fits like a glove. Great vid, full of detail. Thanks 👍
Thanks mate you helped me fix my heating, plumber told me it was a control unit fault so I ordered one fitted it no fix so I looked at this unit and your video cost me £26 for new Syncron motor and gearbox from Plumb Centre all sorted now!
Great video saved a 130 pound all because the micro switch was not making contact and switching on so this give me the confidence to find my fault and sort it thank u
Hi Sebestian - I found your video super useful! It turned out the gear mechanism is faulty in the valve head so the new motor didn't help. I will need to get valve head to fix the problem. Brilliant video. Many thanks :-)
Brilliant video. Sadly with a water phobia I don't have the guts to check why mine is faulty as i am scared uncontrolled water will come flooding out but at least I know how they work!
Excellent video and explanation - I have a 3 port valve like this which clicks several times when firing up which seems to cause the boiler to click as well. From this video I guess the gearbox is on its way out. Thanks for haring this
Excellent - I have had problems with a number of zone valves where the tap itself has got a bit stiff and this has caused the place where the zone valve keys into it (invariably made of plastic on the head unit) to 'round out' and not be a tight fit - then you get all sorts of intermittent problems. Probably down to hard water jamming up the actual tap valve. One to look out for!
briliant l i was going to change the motor and after watching this I now know the gear box is US so I will change the whole Head instead , ( done this befor), saved me buying a motor and findig out rest of it was knacked . Ps you should be a teacher
Hi Sebastian. Thank you for your extremely informative video. However I still am not quite sure what is wrong with my Honeywell 3 way valve. Apologies in advance for very, very long message but figured you would need all the facts. Original problem. Heating not coming on when called. Hot water coming on when called but some of the upstairs radiators coming on. Called engineer who said he fitted a new replacement powerhead. This appeared to solve the problem, I paid him and off he went. However the next day same problem as before. He came back, fiddled around a bit, said he wasn't sure exactly what problem was and was going to replace "powerhead and valve". I specifically asked him if this meant the brass T shaped piece of pipework below powerhead. He said no and implied it was not that but the powerhead with something else (but not the T shaped brassware) which would cost another £100. Left me confused as I thought you replaced either whole powerhead +/- valve below unless you replace one of the components like the motor or microswitch independently as per your video. Not sure he really changed powerhead as doesn't look new. I took cover off powerhead and had a little investigate myself and this is what I have found: When no power to valve: lever has resistance and springs back. Can't hear clunking gears.When power to valve: looseWhen neither HW or CH calling valve is open When just hot water called: nothing moves and boiler and pump fire up.When just CH called I can see motor turn valve towards microswitch but boiler and pump do not fire. If I then use my little finger to push microswitch the boiler and pump fire up. I also took powerhead off completely to check valve - using my finger I can move spindle but not very far. So my lay-person's conclusions: Programmer to valve signalling working as motor does do something. Electrics to microswitch working because when I manually close it circuit is completed, Motor working to some degree because it does travel when CH firedValve seems okay as I can move spindle. Questions: 1. Could it be that the motor not got enough oomph to turn all the way to close microswitch?2. Could 1. be caused by a stiff valve. As I said it did move but I don't know how far it should move and how stiff it should be. 3. If it was 1. surely that would have been solved if he had replaced powerhead as he claimed he did.Any help gratefully received. I don't mind paying for genuine work but just have a feeling I may being taken advantage of. Thanks, Diane
Good video, the first one that talked about the actual workings and the possible problems with the micro switches. I had to replace a top motor to the valve and found that the new replacement was faulty, in that the mechanics inside were not turning enough to operate the micro switches. Once I found this out all was well with another motor.
Excellent video, very clear - many thanks. My problem is that the motor appears to have failed (it was buzzing) so that the valve is open but has not swung not far enough to hit the microswitch and so energise the pump. I'm planning to replace the head since it's not clear exactly where the problem is (yet!).
Hi Manek, just got buzzing noise yesterday, great info here. Can you let me know the steps you had to go through to solve the problem you had? Cheers if you can.
david gormley Sure. From what I remember (it was nine months ago!), I left the valve in place, which saved a lot of hassle, removed the motor as the video shows. I'd bought a replacement, very easy to find, and simply did the reverse operation. I was surprised how quick and easy it was. Use the video - it's very explanatory.
Normally the pump and boiler both run at the same time, although the pump may (run on) for a timed period depending on your system. This is designed to dissipate the heat before shutting down. But if boiler is definitely running ALL the time it is incorrectly wired
Hi and thanks for the informative video, you can tell if the honeywell V4073A valve is a non drain down model by the little bump seen on the top of the casing. Drain down models do not have this, and obviously you need to drain the system down below the level of the valve.
If the valve makes a clicking noise the gears are probably slipping. On the valve I examined it seems to have been caused by a manufacturing defect rather than wear as it was a relatively new valve and these should last years. The motor gear did not fully mesh with the large gear and there is no facility for adjustment. If the gears are not too worn then enlarging the hole for the motor boss will allow the motor to be rotated slightly to get a better mesh. Fix the motor in position with another screw or epoxy.
Actually there are 2 microswitches. One switches the pump and the water flow turns the boiler on. I wonder who designed this clutch mechanism, especially why ?
Hi Sebastian. Great video and explanation of the 3-port valve operation. I think I have a broken syncro motor on our control head and would be interested to get a 2nd opinion. The symptoms are 1) the manual lever doesn't move back from it's manual position, 2) the motor itself is quite hot to the touch. The problem we are having with our central heating system which has started this investigation is a lack of hot water which looks like a flow problem i.e. after having a shower the hot water is to slowly to get back to temperature. I've had a plumber round and he's concluded it's either a problem with the 3-port valve, or the pump but can't definatly say which. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Paul
Hi Seb. I think have a problem with one of these valves. My oil fired central heating system boiler is alway on, even when I turn off the system at the timer. The only way I can shut the boiler off is if I turn the power source off at the boiler. If I did not isolate the boiler the system would be on 24/7. thanks
Just to add to this. My customer has a 3 port valve broken at the brass pipe side. The bit that sticks out just spins freely round and round with fingers. It is obviously broken as no position changes anything. hot water and heating come on together no matter what. I think something has snapped inside.
Unless you have the very old version with four screws holding the head on, you don't have to drain the system to change the head. If there are only two diagonally opposite screws holding the head to the body it is a simple no drain down job.
ahh, yes. I remember the old style motor and unscrewing those four nuts thinking I knew what I was doing.... one, two, three, four..... psffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff soaked !! hot black water in my eye, down both sleeves, live cables all over the place, standing on a metal sink with the motor at arms length above me reaching over the top of a six tonne 1983 glow worm boiler .. Deep joy. Great informative vid.
I am going to try this. First. Turn off boiler. Turn on thermostat to that zone in question. Remove motor. Turn on boiler. Wait and see if the motor spins. Spins? It's okay. Does not? Need new motor. Test end switch for continuity. Turn off boiler again. Put tester to send switch. Push switch on and off. Will let you know what happens.
He said power one and both ports are open and power both and only CH is open, which is correct. White live = Mid Position, white and grey live = CH port open, no power on either = motor spring returns to HW only position.
Hi, I had a physically seized "tap" under the valve (2 port ). After freeing it up I find that the valve doesnt close reliably. I need to manually cut and apply power a couple of times for it to close. Could you please advise where you think the issue might be? I've also noticed that it was installed with the arrow pointing against the flow direction. Could this be causing this? Thanks for your great video!
re 3:40 . The valve only controls the 240v supply to the pump and the boiler for room heating. Water heating, well as I understand it that is a direct feed from the programmer and cylinder stat. I thought with the valve set in the room heating position, continuity is between white and orange. sorry for being pedantic :)
Detailed explanation - thanks. My 3-port valve is quite stiff, sometimes the actuator will not move the port to the correct position but if I unscrew it a little from the body the motors starts to move and the boiler comes on. I've been though 3 actuators in 15 years and now it looks like this one is struggling. I'm wondering if the valve is too stiff and I should replace? I'm going to replace the pump this summer so no issue with a drain-down.
My water has stopped heating its just slightly warm and i looked at the valve and the paddle does not do anything looks jammed ,i can move it back and forward manually but the gears do not move ,is this the problem the waters not heating ?
I have an acl 3 port changeover valve that looks as if it has a faulty Synchron motor. The symtoms were the boiler would fire-up for hot water but would not fire-up for heating. The motor does not operate although the water leaver is free to move. With the motor removed the gearbox appears to be ok as you can rotate the motor without any problem. Also, the motor appears to be open circuit as I cannot measure any resistance across the motor terminals. I was hoping your video would cover this aspect - otherwise a very instructive video. If you are free, please come back with typical resistance figures for the motor. Thanks
I think my valve stem is not moving all the way. It caused the motor gears to strip trying to move it. The lever for auto or manual moves with no resistance. I took the motor off it was really hot. I used a screwdriver as if it was the valve stem and tried to turn it. It just skipped the gear teeth and opened all the way. So...I guess I need the whole assembly.
Hi Sebastian I think my diverter valves are not working properly because when i select Central Heating i noticed the Hot Water pipes are also hot. Is this normal or a fault? I actually took the Honeywell metal controller part out & manually turned to A (CH) or B (HW) or in the middle (AB) with my own hands but still noticed when Central Heating was selected the HW pipes were also heating up I believe that when CH is selected the HW should be totally off i.e cold. But because of a faulty diverter valve will unnecessary cause a bigger gas bill. is this correct? ...So in short drain the system & change the whole thing?
Hi mate very good video.. can the pressure vessel being broke stop me from getting hot water.? seems like the motorised valve to the hot water cylinder is opening and all pipes getting hot, but only giving about 1mins worth of hot water. the expansion pressure vessel is full of water, very heavy. has still been working fine for two weeks though other then pressure release valve letting bye to out side.
On our valve the levers loose both ways so I guess that means the gearing is stuck? The little cog looks OK. Going to turn electric off and see. EDIT: turn off electric then check lever/arm and you should get resistance as per video. If not its bust. If clunky it's broken gears or cog worn out. Hope that helps someone.
even after all these years since you put this up , its still helping people , very much
Amen!! 🎉
Yes my boiler won’t actually turn off the radiators so I think my value is stuck open of the micro switch thinks it’s open
After several days of trying to get the boiler to start I watched your video and realised that the main synchro motor wasn't pushing the lever sufficiently to make contact with the switch that sends the "start signal." After changing the motor my system now fires up and I'm very grateful for your help.
Thank you so much Sebastian. Woke up this morning with my valve making loads of noise. Your descriptions and details were spot on and allowed me to diagnose a faulty motor and gave me the confidence to get a new one and fix it myself. Saved me £100 in callout. Brilliant.
Thank you Sebastian. I replaced a 2 port valve today and after watching your video it went like a dream and works perfectly. I must have saved myself £100 on a plumber.
Really helpful video. Good teaching skills. Easy and plain to understand. Thankfully my valve has a modern head so no water drainage needed. Thank you Sebastian.
Seb its an excellent description on your video . I changed the motor and saved over £180 quoted from the local plummer . The part was £9.79 ant it took 30 min to repair. Great video thanks
An excellent video, thanks for taking the time to post it. More informative than a year long plumbing internship! Now to watch again and take notes.
Nice and clear explanation. Just saved me an emergency call out over Easter in Freezing weather. The motor had jammed. Replaced with old one from shed and warm again. Many thanks
Just about changing the head
I was not aware that old types have 4 screws it hapend once to my friend but now I understood why
Thankyou very much for sharing such information
an excellent video which helped me not just understand how this thing works on my boiler but enabled me to fix my problem. Very clear and precise explanation - thank you very much!!!
Really appreciate your clear explanations. Over the course of a few days, we gradually realised we had heating, but only warm water. The auto/manual lever is stuck in the auto position (power on or off). Have ordered a replacement motor, and fingers crossed. Many thanks!!
I had found the problem by trial and error but this video is great for confiming my diy diagnosis.....and now I will not have to worry about the plumber getting back to me and I'm going to do it myself... Cheers mate Happy New Year!!
Very clear and informative video. Ordered new motor this morning (isn't turning under power) and simply buzzing away merrily. Great info on the micro-switch. Using the lever manually, the arm wasn't coming across far enough to depress the switch. All sorted now.
For the last 10 years or so, I have had issues with the Honeywell 3 Port Diverter valve, in that I have suddenly only had Hot Water and No Heating.
On one or two occasions I replaced the top-plate of the diverter valve because the ball-valve swivel had become stiff, but on all other occasions I have replaced the Actuator Head to restore Central Heating. On one occasion more recently, I successfully replaced just the motor in the actuator head (which was a lot less expensive).
However, last week I woke up to find that we had Central Heating upstairs only, and the downstairs radiators remaining cold. Naturally I feared that the circulation pump had finally failed after 25 years of loyal service; but as a first step, I removed the actuator head from the diverter valve to visually check that it was OK and that the ball-valve swivel worked freely. I re-assembled and switched on the boiler, but the same symptoms prevailed.
Therefore, with the boiler still switched on and in Central Heating only mode, I checked the voltage on the circulation pump - ZERO!! - so the fault is somewhere else! With the supply to the burner disconnected (so that I could lift the control panel & it’s box of tricks out of the way) I removed the cover from the Diverter Valve Actuator Head, hoping to see how it worked when switching between C/H & H/W - it seemed to OK, but still no voltage at the circulation pump.
With the intention of changing the Actuator Head yet again, I started to slacken the two screws securing the Actuator Head to the Valve Body, when I heard the Circulation Pump start, and yes! - 240 Volts at the pump!! Evidently the limit switch inside the actuator head was not being activated, but worked fine with the actuator head securing screws backed-off by about one turn.
Leaving all as it now is, I put everything else back in place and reconnected the burner, and It’s now bee working normally for the past 6 days without the need to replace anything - just slacken 2 screws a bit!
Long may it last!! Hope this might be of help to someone, but be VERY careful when working on the boiler with the power ON!!
19/02/23
Same issue. Motor was sticking before the lever made contact with the start switch. Changed the motor - now perfect! £19 for the motor; zero cost to fit. (Probably £100+ for call-out, parts and labour). Thanks
One of the clearest and the most articulate bits of guidance I have come across on UA-cam. It's brilliant... thanks so much :-)
true. agree.
Brilliant video thank you , completely dismantled mine and it was only the paddle/valve not going fully over to heating and activating the second microswitch , all working brilliant now !
an excellent video Sebastian - very clear description
Give yourself a pat on the back. It’s just cost me £16 to fix my Honeywell synchro motor. The Corgi motor from toolstation fits like a glove. Great vid, full of detail. Thanks 👍
Thanks mate you helped me fix my heating, plumber told me it was a control unit fault so I ordered one fitted it no fix so I looked at this unit and your video cost me £26 for new Syncron motor and gearbox from Plumb Centre all sorted now!
Great video saved a 130 pound all because the micro switch was not making contact and switching on so this give me the confidence to find my fault and sort it thank u
Totally brilliant. Fixed my heating and I can't even change a fuse without help!
Hi Sebestian - I found your video super useful! It turned out the gear mechanism is faulty in the valve head so the new motor didn't help. I will need to get valve head to fix the problem. Brilliant video. Many thanks :-)
Brilliant video. Sadly with a water phobia I don't have the guts to check why mine is faulty as i am scared uncontrolled water will come flooding out but at least I know how they work!
A most exellent demo sir,very helpfull indeed
Great help with me understanding my potential heating problem now. off with some confidence to try to repair it. Thank you.
Very in depth video and explaining how to test one of the 2 micro switches, very useful information. Terribly quiet audio though.
Excellent video and explanation - I have a 3 port valve like this which clicks several times when firing up which seems to cause the boiler to click as well. From this video I guess the gearbox is on its way out. Thanks for haring this
Got to swap the head on one of these tomorrow so thanks for a really useful video 👍🏻
Many thanks for this info, been trying to find out how much these these valves move for ages. Cheers
Really good straight forward guide, understood it all. Thanks, brilliant job.
Excellent - I have had problems with a number of zone valves where the tap itself has got a bit stiff and this has caused the place where the zone valve keys into it (invariably made of plastic on the head unit) to 'round out' and not be a tight fit - then you get all sorts of intermittent problems. Probably down to hard water jamming up the actual tap valve. One to look out for!
briliant
l i was going to change the motor and after watching this I now know the gear box is US so I will change the whole Head instead , ( done this befor), saved me buying a motor and findig out rest of it was knacked .
Ps
you should be a teacher
really clear video and fantastically explained - brilliant !
I've just swapped over the motor and fixed my central heating. Thank you!!!
Very clear and easy to follow video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for the excellent and informative video. Well presented and very professional. A good promotion for your Plumb Team business.
Thanks, just unsiezed my motor and all working now!
Ah - I get it! Thank you, Sebastian - this is a model of what a helpful video should be.
Mine's been banging away - sounds like gears?😊 Thank you for this.
Thank you Sebastian, This is just what i was looking for. Very useful and informative.
What a great video guide. Many thanks, added to favourites!
Thanks for a super straight forward video
Thanks for this video. Best one I have seen. Now I understand it I am off to fix it.
Brilliant, clear, informative video. Thanks.
Hi Sebastian. Thank you for your extremely informative video. However I still am not quite sure what is wrong with my Honeywell 3 way valve. Apologies in advance for very, very long message but figured you would need all the facts. Original problem. Heating not coming on when called. Hot water coming on when called but some of the upstairs radiators coming on.
Called engineer who said he fitted a new replacement powerhead. This appeared to solve the problem, I paid him and off he went. However the next day same problem as before. He came back, fiddled around a bit, said he wasn't sure exactly what problem was and was going to replace "powerhead and valve". I specifically asked him if this meant the brass T shaped piece of pipework below powerhead. He said no and implied it was not that but the powerhead with something else (but not the T shaped brassware) which would cost another £100. Left me confused as I thought you replaced either whole powerhead +/- valve below unless you replace one of the components like the motor or microswitch independently as per your video.
Not sure he really changed powerhead as doesn't look new. I took cover off powerhead and had a little investigate myself and this is what I have found:
When no power to valve: lever has resistance and springs back. Can't hear clunking gears.When power to valve: looseWhen neither HW or CH calling valve is open When just hot water called: nothing moves and boiler and pump fire up.When just CH called I can see motor turn valve towards microswitch but boiler and pump do not fire. If I then use my little finger to push microswitch the boiler and pump fire up.
I also took powerhead off completely to check valve - using my finger I can move spindle but not very far.
So my lay-person's conclusions:
Programmer to valve signalling working as motor does do something. Electrics to microswitch working because when I manually close it circuit is completed, Motor working to some degree because it does travel when CH firedValve seems okay as I can move spindle.
Questions:
1. Could it be that the motor not got enough oomph to turn all the way to close microswitch?2. Could 1. be caused by a stiff valve. As I said it did move but I don't know how far it should move and how stiff it should be. 3. If it was 1. surely that would have been solved if he had replaced powerhead as he claimed he did.Any help gratefully received. I don't mind paying for genuine work but just have a feeling I may being taken advantage of. Thanks, Diane
Good video, the first one that talked about the actual workings and the possible problems with the micro switches. I had to replace a top motor to the valve and found that the new replacement was faulty, in that the mechanics inside were not turning enough to operate the micro switches. Once I found this out all was well with another motor.
Amazing explanation, thank you.
Excellent video, very clear - many thanks. My problem is that the motor appears to have failed (it was buzzing) so that the valve is open but has not swung not far enough to hit the microswitch and so energise the pump. I'm planning to replace the head since it's not clear exactly where the problem is (yet!).
Hi Manek, just got buzzing noise yesterday, great info here. Can you let me know the steps you had to go through to solve the problem you had? Cheers if you can.
david gormley Sure. From what I remember (it was nine months ago!), I left the valve in place, which saved a lot of hassle, removed the motor as the video shows. I'd bought a replacement, very easy to find, and simply did the reverse operation. I was surprised how quick and easy it was. Use the video - it's very explanatory.
Thanks a mil Manek, appreciated
Normally the pump and boiler both run at the same time, although the pump may (run on) for a timed period depending on your system. This is designed to dissipate the heat before shutting down. But if boiler is definitely running ALL the time it is incorrectly wired
Hi Sebastian, Thank you for this video. I was able to fix my issue easily.
Fantastic video, so helpful. Thanks!
Hi and thanks for the informative video, you can tell if the honeywell V4073A valve is a non drain down model by the little bump seen on the top of the casing.
Drain down models do not have this, and obviously you need to drain the system down below the level of the valve.
If the valve makes a clicking noise the gears are probably slipping. On the valve I examined it seems to have been caused by a manufacturing defect rather than wear as it was a relatively new valve and these should last years. The motor gear did not fully mesh with the large gear and there is no facility for adjustment. If the gears are not too worn then enlarging the hole for the motor boss will allow the motor to be rotated slightly to get a better mesh. Fix the motor in position with another screw or epoxy.
very good well explained with some great tips on re-assembly
Really useful, clear video. Thank you.
Excellent video, so well explained. Am going to replace my actuator and see how it goes. Thank you so much.
Good, clear information. Thanks
Super video. So easy to understand.
a very detailed and excellent video . thanks for the upload
hank you for the best video , very easy to understand
Really helpful video, nice and clear, thanks very much
Actually there are 2 microswitches. One switches the pump and the water flow turns the boiler on. I wonder who designed this clutch mechanism, especially why ?
Hi Sebastian. Great video and explanation of the 3-port valve operation. I think I have a broken syncro motor on our control head and would be interested to get a 2nd opinion. The symptoms are 1) the manual lever doesn't move back from it's manual position, 2) the motor itself is quite hot to the touch. The problem we are having with our central heating system which has started this investigation is a lack of hot water which looks like a flow problem i.e. after having a shower the hot water is to slowly to get back to temperature. I've had a plumber round and he's concluded it's either a problem with the 3-port valve, or the pump but can't definatly say which. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Paul
great video this is what youtube is all about
Thanks. Knowledge is power.
Hi Seb. I think have a problem with one of these valves. My oil fired central heating system boiler is alway on, even when I turn off the system at the timer. The only way I can shut the boiler off is if I turn the power source off at the boiler. If I did not isolate the boiler the system would be on 24/7. thanks
Happened to me. One of the micro switches in the diverter valve was broken.
Just to add to this. My customer has a 3 port valve broken at the brass pipe side. The bit that sticks out just spins freely round and round with fingers. It is obviously broken as no position changes anything. hot water and heating come on together no matter what. I think something has snapped inside.
Best explained video EVER! thank you so much for taking the time to help us out
Very easy to understand. Thank you
Unless you have the very old version with four screws holding the head on, you don't have to drain the system to change the head. If there are only two diagonally opposite screws holding the head to the body it is a simple no drain down job.
I had a sloppy paddle, when I removed the motor the spring system loudly TWANGed and it now seems to function as intended, Cheers
ahh, yes. I remember the old style motor and unscrewing those four nuts thinking I knew what I was doing.... one, two, three, four..... psffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff soaked !! hot black water in my eye, down both sleeves, live cables all over the place, standing on a metal sink with the motor at arms length above me reaching over the top of a six tonne 1983 glow worm boiler .. Deep joy. Great informative vid.
maybe you forgot to drain down the system?
Well made video. Very useful information. Thank you.
Very helpful Sebastian. Thank you.
I am going to try this. First. Turn off boiler. Turn on thermostat to that zone in question. Remove motor. Turn on boiler. Wait and see if the motor spins. Spins? It's okay. Does not? Need new motor. Test end switch for continuity. Turn off boiler again. Put tester to send switch. Push switch on and off.
Will let you know what happens.
He said power one and both ports are open and power both and only CH is open, which is correct. White live = Mid Position, white and grey live = CH port open, no power on either = motor spring returns to HW only position.
Nice, intelligent analysis.
Very helpfull ,,,,,well explained
Thanks for your trouble
Good Video well explained , Thank you Sebastian
Great vid. very helpful. I had some idea what to do and this confirms what I thought
Hi, I had a physically seized "tap" under the valve (2 port ). After freeing it up I find that the valve doesnt close reliably. I need to manually cut and apply power a couple of times for it to close. Could you please advise where you think the issue might be? I've also noticed that it was installed with the arrow pointing against the flow direction. Could this be causing this? Thanks for your great video!
re 3:40 . The valve only controls the 240v supply to the pump and the boiler for room heating. Water heating, well as I understand it that is a direct feed from the programmer and cylinder stat.
I thought with the valve set in the room heating position, continuity is between white and orange.
sorry for being pedantic :)
Detailed explanation - thanks.
My 3-port valve is quite stiff, sometimes the actuator will not move the port to the correct position but if I unscrew it a little from the body the motors starts to move and the boiler comes on. I've been though 3 actuators in 15 years and now it looks like this one is struggling. I'm wondering if the valve is too stiff and I should replace? I'm going to replace the pump this summer so no issue with a drain-down.
Hi.... Sounds like a 'pattern' valve head is a little misaligned.....
My water has stopped heating its just slightly warm and i looked at the valve and the paddle does not do anything looks jammed ,i can move it back and forward manually but the gears do not move ,is this the problem the waters not heating ?
very informative and in depth. subscribed.
I have an acl 3 port changeover valve that looks as if it has a faulty Synchron motor. The symtoms were the boiler would fire-up for hot water but would not fire-up for heating. The motor does not operate although the water leaver is free to move. With the motor removed the gearbox appears to be ok as you can rotate the motor without any problem. Also, the motor appears to be open circuit as I cannot measure any resistance across the motor terminals. I was hoping your video would cover this aspect - otherwise a very instructive video. If you are free, please come back with typical resistance figures for the motor. Thanks
Excellent Job. Thank you for this!
Wouldn't be advisable to turn the power supply off first ? if so, how can I isolate the power to the 3-port valve please ?
I think my valve stem is not moving all the way. It caused the motor gears to strip trying to move it. The lever for auto or manual moves with no resistance. I took the motor off it was really hot. I used a screwdriver as if it was the valve stem and tried to turn it. It just skipped the gear teeth and opened all the way. So...I guess I need the whole assembly.
Hi Sebastian. Can I change the syncron motor on an old Honeywell ( with the 4 screws on the head) without it flooding.?
Wonderful video!!!!!!!!!!
Very clear and helpful, thanks
Many thanks....extremely helpful clip.
Hi Sebastian
I think my diverter valves are not working properly because when i select Central Heating i noticed the Hot Water pipes are also hot. Is this normal or a fault?
I actually took the Honeywell metal controller part out & manually turned to A (CH) or B (HW) or in the middle (AB) with my own hands but still noticed when Central Heating was selected the HW pipes were also heating up
I believe that when CH is selected the HW should be totally off i.e cold. But because of a faulty diverter valve will unnecessary cause a bigger gas bill. is this correct? ...So in short drain the system & change the whole thing?
Excellent video, thanks
Why would you have too cut the two wires and put them in a block connection what purpose does that serve any one?
Hi mate very good video..
can the pressure vessel being broke stop me from getting hot water.? seems like the motorised valve to the hot water cylinder is opening and all pipes getting hot, but only giving about 1mins worth of hot water. the expansion pressure vessel is full of water, very heavy. has still been working fine for two weeks though other then pressure release valve letting bye to out side.
On our valve the levers loose both ways so I guess that means the gearing is stuck? The little cog looks OK. Going to turn electric off and see. EDIT: turn off electric then check lever/arm and you should get resistance as per video. If not its bust. If clunky it's broken gears or cog worn out. Hope that helps someone.
Very informative, great job.