Thanks very MUCH! I have a Sunset N&W 4-8-0 and have been searching for EXACTLY this video to see how it needs to be done. I now have confidence I can do so with mine.
The problem with the brass on many of the later models like Sunset is there is a clearcoat on the brass to prevent oxidation and keep it shiny...which helps to remove (nail polish remover) otherwise it can get in the way when trying to probe for continuity or solder - thanks and love the videos...very helpful
mine have gold paint on them to make them look...like sixth grade craft projects. Earlier Japanese brass has nothing on it and it reacts with foam, air, finger oil...These models definitely need a bath in the sauce.
I really like the idea of making a Locomotive sound like the real thing, But maybe it's just me too many different loud sounds could have an adverse affect enjoying the project.
Great video!! Hands down very good but man it’s long LOL I’m to glad you don’t pan away an come back .I did a few brass installs an found that I fit the decoder right above the gear box along with a long speaker. There more room then ya think . I still get confused on tender on what side pickup is along with engine as for power .seams like most brass pretty much pick up power same side an for tender. Also found out some are different great job well done
My husband recently purchased a sunset santa fe 2 10 4, do you work on the engines privately installing a decoder or just for the club, and if you do what would you charge. Thanks
When did you remove the red/upper motor connector ? Saw you remove the body from the carriage at about 50:40 but the top motor connector already had the wire removed from it> Did I miss something. I have an old 2-8-8-2 united and am installing dcc on it. The original motor connections where removed and discarded by a previous owner so I'm starting from scratch more or less (using a new NWSL repower kit) and I was hoping your video would show me how to hook up the +/- wires/wipers etc.....
I'm addong a digitrax sdf166 to a 0-4-0 brass. Have watched this video several times. Do you use a special solder for brass? I have cleaned the tender wheel mounts thoroughly and cannot get my solder to adhear and bond with the surface. Am using a weller 51 soldering ststion, with flux and good solder...no luck....any suggestions. Chuck Garcia
Larry, I’m wondering why you chose not to use a quick disconnect harness between the tender and the loco. Working on my first install on my steam loco and tender I have found that harness to be quite a challenge requiring a lot of cutting sanding and gluing. Is that why u didn’t use the harness between the two?
Great Video! The Locomotive test stand, can anyone tell me where to find one of these? I looks adjustable, I plan on doing something similar with some HOn3 brass.
The stands are made by Bachrus. However they are out of business. Here is a substitute product. yankeedabbler.com/42901-bachmann-ho-on30-e-z-riders-ball-bearing-rollers-scale-ho-part-160-42901/?setCurrencyId=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5NqVBhAjEiwAeCa97RoijOXfyXTKyEa1en01Bhf5MeMvN7uvZLFkaFd5RJlMkiZCy-GcWxoC1YYQAvD_BwE
Great video sir, really made me fell a little more confident about adding sound to my greenbrier. While I’m thinking of this, would adding a light to the rear be the same way or different? Also do you do these for others or just for club members and yourself? I was expecting the tender to be much bigger, but it look to have about the same space as my greenbrier. Great video and I’m glad you didn’t go off camera and do other things and then explain what you did, really happy you did it on camera. Great install and video and looking forward to more. :)
Thank you for the comments. I try to include as much information as I can. A rear light would be easy to install. It would be similar to the front, just use the yellow wire. I have installed for several folks but most have been for club members.
You need to be much better organized before you start your video. I could have eaten dinner while you were finding the essential’s for this project. Prepare properly, present positively. OK?😊
Thanks very MUCH! I have a Sunset N&W 4-8-0 and have been searching for EXACTLY this video to see how it needs to be done. I now have confidence I can do so with mine.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad this will help.
The problem with the brass on many of the later models like Sunset is there is a clearcoat on the brass to prevent oxidation and keep it shiny...which helps to remove (nail polish remover) otherwise it can get in the way when trying to probe for continuity or solder - thanks and love the videos...very helpful
mine have gold paint on them to make them look...like sixth grade craft projects. Earlier Japanese brass has nothing on it and it reacts with foam, air, finger oil...These models definitely need a bath in the sauce.
I really like the idea of making a Locomotive sound like the real thing, But maybe it's just me too many different loud sounds could have an adverse affect enjoying the project.
Great video!! Hands down very good but man it’s long LOL I’m to glad you don’t pan away an come back .I did a few brass installs an found that I fit the decoder right above the gear box along with a long speaker. There more room then ya think . I still get confused on tender on what side pickup is along with engine as for power .seams like most brass pretty much pick up power same side an for tender. Also found out some are different great job well done
Thanks for watching.
nice job----sure could've used more explanation of what you were doing tho! thanks
Agreed looks and sounds great
Thank you.
My husband recently purchased a sunset santa fe 2 10 4, do you work on the engines privately installing a decoder or just for the club, and if you do what would you charge. Thanks
When did you remove the red/upper motor connector ? Saw you remove the body from the carriage at about 50:40 but the top motor connector already had the wire removed from it> Did I miss something. I have an old 2-8-8-2 united and am installing dcc on it. The original motor connections where removed and discarded by a previous owner so I'm starting from scratch more or less (using a new NWSL repower kit) and I was hoping your video would show me how to hook up the +/- wires/wipers etc.....
Great video, the engine looks and sounds great thanks for sharing....
Thank you.
I'm addong a digitrax sdf166 to a 0-4-0 brass. Have watched this video several times. Do you use a special solder for brass? I have cleaned the tender wheel mounts thoroughly and cannot get my solder to adhear and bond with the surface. Am using a weller 51 soldering ststion, with flux and good solder...no luck....any suggestions. Chuck Garcia
No special solder used. Try using a wire brush or a wire wheel on the surface to be soldered.
Thanks. Ill give it a shot. Love watching you work. Chuck
Larry, I’m wondering why you chose not to use a quick disconnect harness between the tender and the loco. Working on my first install on my steam loco and tender I have found that harness to be quite a challenge requiring a lot of cutting sanding and gluing. Is that why u didn’t use the harness between the two?
The person I installed it for, did not want the connector. Nothing more than that.
Where do you get your lenses? Ive been struggling to find lenses that wont cost me a fortune let alone find any at all.
I are them with micro kristal klear.
a.co/d/j7PAOpV
Great Video! The Locomotive test stand, can anyone tell me where to find one of these? I looks adjustable, I plan on doing something similar with some HOn3 brass.
The stands are made by Bachrus. However they are out of business. Here is a substitute product. yankeedabbler.com/42901-bachmann-ho-on30-e-z-riders-ball-bearing-rollers-scale-ho-part-160-42901/?setCurrencyId=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5NqVBhAjEiwAeCa97RoijOXfyXTKyEa1en01Bhf5MeMvN7uvZLFkaFd5RJlMkiZCy-GcWxoC1YYQAvD_BwE
@@SoloContracting thank you!
Great video sir, really made me fell a little more confident about adding sound to my greenbrier. While I’m thinking of this, would adding a light to the rear be the same way or different? Also do you do these for others or just for club members and yourself? I was expecting the tender to be much bigger, but it look to have about the same space as my greenbrier. Great video and I’m glad you didn’t go off camera and do other things and then explain what you did, really happy you did it on camera. Great install and video and looking forward to more. :)
Thank you for the comments. I try to include as much information as I can. A rear light would be easy to install. It would be similar to the front, just use the yellow wire. I have installed for several folks but most have been for club members.
You need to be much better organized before you start your video. I could have eaten dinner while you were finding the essential’s for this project. Prepare properly, present positively. OK?😊