Drew, I used to own the largest subaru repair shop in the usa.... that said, I was the go to guy. That said, it was 1996 and I sold everything to my partner and never went to work on them any more. I had my fill of tightening those damn head bolts as they do have a really high torque setting as I barely remember. I start watching this and yeah I saw a few mistakes but that is just what we do, make mistakes and guys who don't make mistakes never wrench. I have forgotten so much that even now as you explained what you were doing, I was lost... that is sad. I just don't remember much of anything. I had all the best drugs in the world while they carved on my back and unlike mechanics who mess up and then fix it right, doctors just say oops or nothing as the guy dies. I never died but fourteen damn years later, still in immense pain I watched this like I was more or less a beginner. yeah. Sad as I see it. Those timing belts are not that easy to do or I just never learned how right... I went to school to do them. One thing I do know is they are not the easy little crap car they used to be back in the eighties when I was working on them. Those older ones I could pull are replace engines in twenty five minutes by myself. Not now though, I don't think I could do one in a whole day. I do think that they are one of the toughest cars ever built back in the day. I sure do hope that you finish the cat ford job as that is one nice rig
Ive been there too. Fight something for hours… then finally give up and take a break. When you come back the part you were fighting practically falls out 😂. Also, I’ve had a lot of issues with the tensioners that come in timing belt kits failing, not just the eBay kits but ones from part stores too. Good video!
I used to see a lot of the idler pulleys fail mainly the geared one, the ones I found that worked were the oem from subaru ones that had nsk bearings in them.
This is a good video not just saying what everyone else does and I only use oem stuff it's good test to see if kits good i use a lot of cheaper name stuff have no issue can't wait for all the Subaru people to be like I have no issues with bla bla every car has issues 🤣
What happened to the light bars? I would have dropped a 130amp aftermarket in there. I think the older subarus are only doing 85 amps and I believe the aftermarkets, or the at least the ones Ive seen are from newer model subarus. rewired for the harness connector. I think youre just really buying the umbilical that makes it swap over to the older harness and the know how with a "aftermarket upgrade" alternator. The 85 amps is kind of gimped when you start retrofitting and taxing over the OEM electronic equipment like amplifiers and light bars and I think taxing them makes those 85 amp versions fail faster. And if youre going to add a alternator upgrade you might as well add the big 3 kit and inspect all your grounds and polish them and run your battery to frame ground over to your strut tower or just make them all redundant because the wiring is gimped to about 85 amps OEM on the old subarus. As far as seals and timing belts. I think you cant afford to be poor unless youre only driving it an hour away from your house and youre lucky this isnt the EJ25D interference engine. With that said I think China is getting better with their bearing manufacture. I still dont put insurance in that statement tho. Especially more then 1 hour away from your house, Its just not worth the risk. Let other guys tell me "nah. China's come a long way Ive done tons of them and they all lasted to the service interval" in the future. Ive seen them last half way. Then the mexican front main seals where leaking and back to all japanese bearing and seals. Let those guys take that risk. If the Japanese companies want to switch their manufacturing to Thailand or China Im still taking the insurance theyre supervising that to keep OEM quality there. And while youre in there, you might as well inspect the oil pump, reseal it and swap the main seal and o-ring as insurance down the road from leaking oil pumps and front main seals or that little o ring that lives inside reducing your oil pressure. Imo its just too easy while you got it open to check and that ultrabond seal doesnt last forever. its also not required to take the engine out. There's just enough room to squeeze the heads out with the engine in and make the valve cover bolt process a potential pain from stripping their bolts out on reassemble. Then youre pulling it anyway to heli coil your valve covers. I guess pick your poison of PITA on that. Either youre awkwardly fighting stuff in a cramped spot or youre spending the time to pull and install the engine. If youre breaking down in a subaru youre probably done, buying a plane ticket home and trying to scratch off your vin numbers to keep the cops off the trail of whoever left that subaru on the top of that mountain with a 15 hr drive away from civilization. If your doing stuff like that to a subaru you probably want to stick with all OEM...Almost forgot. If you take the heads and block and measure for flatness with a flat reference and feeler gauge theres a specification on whether it needs machining. You measure in a full square the an X. if everything is flat you can just clean them up. I've successfully just polished and cleaned them up using like 1500 to 2000 wet dry sand paper spray adhesived to a piece of marble slab leftovers. 1 to ensure flatness of the surface. The other is to make sure youre running 100% of the surface on the strokes. It leaves you with a smooth surface with no tool chatter. In machining thats the highest level of tolerance achievable in machining. Hand finished. So it can be superior vs inferior vs. paying the machine shop to possibly remove material thats doesnt need removing, where you can only go that route so many times before youve changed the compression ratios and you need new heads from being too thin.
I bought the evergreen kit and couldn't decide if the head gaskets were good even though they were Multi layer Steel, so I bought the Subaru Head Gaskets for the Turbo Motor. I was wondering how this kit worked out for you. Still running? No Leaks?
Sooo the gaskets were fine, I never had any issues with leaks or with the head gaskets themselves. I did however have an issue with the timing belt… about 6 months after this repair the timing belt completely broke bending valves. I ended up parting the car out.
@@DrEwBaBy625 That sucks. I watched a lot of videos on how to do this and bought all the Jap parts, mostly the manufacturers that made them for Subaru as they were a lot cheaper. My Outback has 240,000 km on it and does not look like the timing belt has ever been changed....
About 5-6 years ago I bought a Bluetooth adapter ($20) and torque pro app ($5) and I have been doing live read outs for a long time. It's a must with a 6.0
It now September 2023 so how is it running up date .,.. best way to clean the 420 is take off the oxygen sensor put a gallon of vinegar 20 percent puting the car in the ramp position .let is sit a few bays..
Ok…………. A combination wrench wedged between the engine and the flex plate…………… and you have nothing to say about it?? Come on! That is very unusual, especially if you’re not the one responsible for it being there! Oh my, there’s a moose in the trunk of my car. Oh well, got to go or I’ll be late for work. WTF?
I have been wondering when you would post a new video. Great to see one
It has been a while!
Drew, I used to own the largest subaru repair shop in the usa.... that said, I was the go to guy. That said, it was 1996 and I sold everything to my partner and never went to work on them any more. I had my fill of tightening those damn head bolts as they do have a really high torque setting as I barely remember. I start watching this and yeah I saw a few mistakes but that is just what we do, make mistakes and guys who don't make mistakes never wrench. I have forgotten so much that even now as you explained what you were doing, I was lost... that is sad. I just don't remember much of anything. I had all the best drugs in the world while they carved on my back and unlike mechanics who mess up and then fix it right, doctors just say oops or nothing as the guy dies. I never died but fourteen damn years later, still in immense pain I watched this like I was more or less a beginner. yeah. Sad as I see it. Those timing belts are not that easy to do or I just never learned how right... I went to school to do them. One thing I do know is they are not the easy little crap car they used to be back in the eighties when I was working on them. Those older ones I could pull are replace engines in twenty five minutes by myself. Not now though, I don't think I could do one in a whole day. I do think that they are one of the toughest cars ever built back in the day. I sure do hope that you finish the cat ford job as that is one nice rig
Ive been there too. Fight something for hours… then finally give up and take a break. When you come back the part you were fighting practically falls out 😂. Also, I’ve had a lot of issues with the tensioners that come in timing belt kits failing, not just the eBay kits but ones from part stores too. Good video!
Good video on the head gasket replacement of this Subaru I enjoyed the video
Thank you!
I used to see a lot of the idler pulleys fail mainly the geared one, the ones I found that worked were the oem from subaru ones that had nsk bearings in them.
Hay Drew I'm doing the head gaskets on the Suby too
This is a good video not just saying what everyone else does and I only use oem stuff it's good test to see if kits good i use a lot of cheaper name stuff have no issue can't wait for all the Subaru people to be like I have no issues with bla bla every car has issues 🤣
Glad to have you back buddy 👍
Great video 👍Drew I think ever Subaru has a failed thread when working on the engine ask me how I know 😅
Added water? To the coolant, not added coolant you dilute it more?
Are you going to put a cb radio in your f350? It would be a perfect match i reckon. Mount the antennas off your mirrors or something.
What happened to the light bars? I would have dropped a 130amp aftermarket in there. I think the older subarus are only doing 85 amps and I believe the aftermarkets, or the at least the ones Ive seen are from newer model subarus. rewired for the harness connector. I think youre just really buying the umbilical that makes it swap over to the older harness and the know how with a "aftermarket upgrade" alternator. The 85 amps is kind of gimped when you start retrofitting and taxing over the OEM electronic equipment like amplifiers and light bars and I think taxing them makes those 85 amp versions fail faster. And if youre going to add a alternator upgrade you might as well add the big 3 kit and inspect all your grounds and polish them and run your battery to frame ground over to your strut tower or just make them all redundant because the wiring is gimped to about 85 amps OEM on the old subarus. As far as seals and timing belts. I think you cant afford to be poor unless youre only driving it an hour away from your house and youre lucky this isnt the EJ25D interference engine. With that said I think China is getting better with their bearing manufacture. I still dont put insurance in that statement tho. Especially more then 1 hour away from your house, Its just not worth the risk. Let other guys tell me "nah. China's come a long way Ive done tons of them and they all lasted to the service interval" in the future. Ive seen them last half way. Then the mexican front main seals where leaking and back to all japanese bearing and seals. Let those guys take that risk. If the Japanese companies want to switch their manufacturing to Thailand or China Im still taking the insurance theyre supervising that to keep OEM quality there. And while youre in there, you might as well inspect the oil pump, reseal it and swap the main seal and o-ring as insurance down the road from leaking oil pumps and front main seals or that little o ring that lives inside reducing your oil pressure. Imo its just too easy while you got it open to check and that ultrabond seal doesnt last forever. its also not required to take the engine out. There's just enough room to squeeze the heads out with the engine in and make the valve cover bolt process a potential pain from stripping their bolts out on reassemble. Then youre pulling it anyway to heli coil your valve covers. I guess pick your poison of PITA on that. Either youre awkwardly fighting stuff in a cramped spot or youre spending the time to pull and install the engine. If youre breaking down in a subaru youre probably done, buying a plane ticket home and trying to scratch off your vin numbers to keep the cops off the trail of whoever left that subaru on the top of that mountain with a 15 hr drive away from civilization. If your doing stuff like that to a subaru you probably want to stick with all OEM...Almost forgot. If you take the heads and block and measure for flatness with a flat reference and feeler gauge theres a specification on whether it needs machining. You measure in a full square the an X. if everything is flat you can just clean them up. I've successfully just polished and cleaned them up using like 1500 to 2000 wet dry sand paper spray adhesived to a piece of marble slab leftovers. 1 to ensure flatness of the surface. The other is to make sure youre running 100% of the surface on the strokes. It leaves you with a smooth surface with no tool chatter. In machining thats the highest level of tolerance achievable in machining. Hand finished. So it can be superior vs inferior vs. paying the machine shop to possibly remove material thats doesnt need removing, where you can only go that route so many times before youve changed the compression ratios and you need new heads from being too thin.
I bought the evergreen kit and couldn't decide if the head gaskets were good even though they were Multi layer Steel, so I bought the Subaru Head Gaskets for the Turbo Motor. I was wondering how this kit worked out for you. Still running? No Leaks?
Sooo the gaskets were fine, I never had any issues with leaks or with the head gaskets themselves. I did however have an issue with the timing belt… about 6 months after this repair the timing belt completely broke bending valves. I ended up parting the car out.
@@DrEwBaBy625 That sucks. I watched a lot of videos on how to do this and bought all the Jap parts, mostly the manufacturers that made them for Subaru as they were a lot cheaper. My Outback has 240,000 km on it and does not look like the timing belt has ever been changed....
About 5-6 years ago I bought a Bluetooth adapter ($20) and torque pro app ($5) and I have been doing live read outs for a long time. It's a must with a 6.0
It now September 2023 so how is it running up date .,.. best way to clean the 420 is take off the oxygen sensor put a gallon of vinegar 20 percent puting the car in the ramp position .let is sit a few bays..
It’s not. Timing belt broke after 8 months and took out the engine
How has the kit held up I just bought one and I'm wondering what you think about it now that time has passed?
Well… car died on me yesterday. Haven’t had a chance to diagnose it but pretty sure one of the timing components failed, it has no compression
How are those bolts and head gaskets from this brand working for you? Thanks
Bolts and gaskets are working great! The timing belt however is not.. timing belt broke and bent valves about 6 months after it was put in.
@@DrEwBaBy625 thanks. God blessed
Looks like that subaru could use a caterpillar!
2:04 🤣🤣🤣
👍
nice
Wassup drew long time no see
It has been a minute! Wassup!
@@DrEwBaBy625 nice video
Ok…………. A combination wrench wedged between the engine and the flex plate…………… and you have nothing to say about it?? Come on! That is very unusual, especially if you’re not the one responsible for it being there! Oh my, there’s a moose in the trunk of my car. Oh well, got to go or I’ll be late for work. WTF?
Obviously he did that unbolting the torque converter. Happens.
Does this thing still run????
Nope. Timing belt broke 6 months after this repair. I guess going cheap for the timing components didn’t pay off.
@@DrEwBaBy625 oof. I was thinking of doing gates timing kit and then these cheap gaskets.
This doesn’t look like a cat diesel….