1951 Chevy Truck Clutch and Rear Main Seal Repairs
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- Covers transmission, clutch and flywheel removal with tips on what to do when restoring and re-installing parts and some tools recommended for use on your project. I also take a test drive later to see how the clutch works.
Snap-On Ratchet: FHLLD80DT
shop.snapon.com
Clutch Head Driver Bits:
www.amazon.com...
There are also hand screwdriver versions and other types for sale on eBay that are good used tools. This is the route I went. Ended up being a brand new set of Proto from the 70's that work great.
Clutch Rebuilding Services:
HRclutch.com. These guys do an excellent job and can rebuild just about any clutch you need done. I have a 1940 Mack clutch pressure plate and disc there now and they are rebuilding that with no issue.
Did this on the side of the road on my '52, 3100, In 1973. Good thing it had a 3 speed, drove it from California to North Carolina. Still have it.
When I was a kid, (still holding the flashlight), my Dad replaced the rear seal on his '63 Chevy truck with an in-line 6. He used a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" which was a wire tool that you fished over the crank shaft, inside the seal groove, that PULLED the seal onto place in one smooth motion, avoiding the "pushing on a rope" frustration. With the "Sneaky Pete" he was easily able to pull the new main seal into place without having to loosen the main bearing caps. Now, that was over 50 years ago, and I have no idea if that kind of tool is even available anymore, but my Dad said it was the best 6 bucks he ever spent.
Nice job. This deserves more views and more likes :) I was chuckling at the transmission install - I kept saying "the throw-out bearing, man - don't forget the bearing" ....... But of course you hadn't forgotten :)
Thanks for your wisdom i will need this one day
Yeah apparently he did put the seal in backwards for it leaks I own the truck in the video.
PAYS TO READ INSTRUCTIONS AND HEED,LIP ALWAYS FACES THE OIL SUPPLY.
This video popped up when I did a search for putting a trans in my 51 half ton, good timing! Great info, we subscribed to your channel. I will be working in a dirt driveway on a sheet of plywood, tho, haha. I am switching from a 3spd column shifter (boo) to a 4spd floor shifter (yay). Catherine is really looking forward to driving it now. We are doing a number of other things to bring it back to it's original state, headliner and interior stuff after going through the brakes, suspension etc. The good news is that the oil leaks were from the trans, driveline and not the engine. If the flywheel is in good shape (not warped or dirty) will it be ok to put the new clutch and pressure plate in? Thanks for your help on this one! Brian and Catherine
Why did you put the seal in backwards. The seal lip should face the front of the engine.
THE LIP ALWAYS FACES THE OIL ON ALL LIP SEALS.
Wrong position !!😅
did you happen to film the removal of the torque tube?
What is the advantage of not removing the bell housing? Doesn't it just pull out from the rear?
Did you have to torq the piston rod caps back to a certain degree?
51 year came with an open drive rearend?
What I want to know ….where did he get that seal ? I could only find the old rope seal….
I have a 1952, Chevrolet deluxe with a 261 engine standard. On a short drive, I started smelling like brakes or rubber burning.
I barely made it home. The engine turns over but no gears.
I am assuming that the clutch has burned out.
My question is are there any replace parts out there and who would I contact.
Thank you
There are parts for that at oreillys sometimes or if the clutch is too old you can get them rebuilt. We can do that for you if you want, give us a call.
Filling Station has all replacement parts along with Classic Parts
IF IT IS A EARLY 6 CHEV. ONLY ROPE SEAL WILL WORK,BLOCK AND CAP NOT MACHINED FOR MODERN SEAL IT WILL LEAK.
Has been modernized
@@MikeSmith-ir7xn AH!
Modernized with new seals