I have my wooden ramps since the mid eighties, my sports car could not clear the incline on my steel ramps. Thirty five years, haven't failed me, don't need additional jack stands to get in the way and never rusted or warped. I would never use plastic ramps. Good video for safe car or truck maintenance ramps.
I followed your instructions exactly and they are perfect! I have a sports sedan and no clearance issues at all driving up these ramps. I was going to buy plastic ramps but have always felt they were a bit sketchy. These ramps are so solid.
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly... That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch . It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
For all you who are fearful of the wood crushing or splitting under the weight of common American vehicles please consider the following. Kiln dried Western White Pine (a very common construction lumber) has a cross-grain compressive strength of 5,040 psi. The front axle gross weight rating of a 2021 Chevy Silverado 2500 is 4,400 pounds. The tires are LT265/60R20 with ground contact area of about 51.6 square inches each. So a fully loaded pickup truck weighs in at 42.63 pounds per square inch on the front tires. The rears would be about 63.95 psi. Both are well under the 5,040 compressive capacity of the wood mentioned. What you should be fearful of is your 110 pound girlfriend wearing those spiked heals, she is putting down a load of 17,600 pounds per square inch . . .
Awesome idea! I just need to change out the oil pan on my daughter's 2007 kia sportage, and was debating which ramp might be the safest on a gravel driveway considering plastic, metal, and cost since I'll probably never use them again. I have a pile of treated 2X8 lumber left over from a pool deck that I built, so this is the perfect solution!!
Love the ramps man even more with the handles. I was going to get the plastic amazon ones like everyone else here but reviews scared me. These are nice and wouldn't brake
Even uf they dont have scrap wood i VERY HIGHLY RECOMMEND paying the 40 bucks and building one of these and NOT buying the plastic ones. Just look at amazon to see how often those plastic ones collapse. Thats ya life bruh.
Those plastic ones only collapse when morons drive too far forward. They are designed to break once you drive off the end. That is to protect the vehicle. At any rate, you should have jack stands under the car no matter what the ramps are made of. Wood can split, the vehicles weigh can shift causing the ramps to tip, or any other crazy thing can happen. Jack stands are just another level of security.
Even if the plastic doesn't fail immediately, every material fails eventually and plastic will develop microscopic faults much faster than metal or wood.
I made this today! All in all, from deciding to make it to getting the lumber, to finding everything I need at Home Depot, to getting it cut there, using janky tools to put it together, took about 2-3 hours. But it's so worth it! Even at full price, the lumber I got, which was 2"x12"x8' (2 in x 12 in x 96 in) cost me about $25. Way cheaper and much more gratifying than those super crappy and scary plastic ramps. I also did the oil change on my driveway, which had a slope of about 1-2 degrees, and drove the car onto the ramps with the car facing downhill. This gave me a few more inches and it actually felt quite roomy under the car :)
Well what do y know. I made the ramp today and have changed the oil and filter. Not only that but also drained the old coolant because of the ramps made today. Thanks for your help.
Cheap and heavy .. perfect! I am a great welder but I don't trust that 2mm thick piece of steel to keep my father's car lifted Your design is better, cheaper, can be trusted
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly... That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
@@johnbravo2301 now you comment ? 😂 I noticed that and I actually made three The first one I mad was a great success but had the issues you mentioned I don't have a problem with the 90⁰... Well for now at least until I change the tires or the car :p but the stress that it was putting in my engine and clutch was pretty scary and can be prevented that's why I made another one
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly... That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch ,,, It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
Thank you for your video. I really do appreciate it. Many other videos was not to my liking. This video was perfect. I attempted to use jack stands to change my oil and didn’t feel safe and not enough clearance. I then went to the store to buy rhino ramps and they were too high for my vehicle, the whole process was really disheartening and I began to get discouraged and frustrated. I took your method and applied it to a 2x12x8 board. Went to Home Depot and they cut it for me. Thanks again your video helped me out so much!!!
Nice presentation. I would caution that many newer cars have a much lower clearance which means you'll be scraping against the ramp as you go up. You may need to spread out the spacing of the levels to avoid this problem, which will mean needing more wood.
Wood glue will help and keep the boards steady. Cut the boards two at a time to get equal length after wood gluing. Thanks. Great idea. Better than plastic ramps.
I always get nervous driving up on ramps out of fear I'll drive off the ends. I had a pair of ramps with very deep intents at the top so the car would slow down on it own. That helped a lot. I have one suggestion for you ramps. Route the edges of the first 3 steps to make it easier to drive up and put a small thin block on the edge of the last step to keep the car from rolling back.
Thank you so much sir! But 2x8s are too narrow for me. If you’re willing to spend $50, used 2x12s instead. Here’s my measurement: 48”, 38”, 28” and 18”. All cuts are 45 degrees.
My Home Depot are cheap assholes and would only do 2 cuts then start charging me per cut. I went to their competitor Menards and they let you use a miter saw and do as many cuts as you want. And they were cheaper
Genius he is not ,,, here's why ... at least I tried to warn you If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly... That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
Hol up... How are you going to get the second set under the car after you get it on the first set? You'll drive backwards to get on the second set and need come off the first ones
@@tif321dc Nope, I'm just really stupid. I have a small car with pretty low clearance so putting the ramps under the car didn't seem like an option. Guess your way works if you have a truck or SUV
Just remembered this video today so i made ramps for changing one part but then i watched more videos realized that i cant change parts that are attached to wheel so im going to buy jack stands and big jack so i can work on changing one part by my self so i dont have to go to mechanic for job that i can do by my self 🙂
HI LOOKING AT THE REVERSING CAR ON THE RAMPS,,,, THE BOTTOM BOARD WANTS TO FLIP UP SO IF YOU CUT THE FIRST LENGTH OF WOOD 6 INCHES LONGER AND THEN DO ALL THE SAME MEASUREMENTS BUT WITH THE EXTRA 6 INCHES STICKING OUT THE FRONT ,IT WONT TRY TO RAISE ,
Сколько видео я не смотрел, но это самое понятное и простое исполнение / How mush video i have seen about DIY ramp, but this video is extremely fine. Best. Thanks! Will go to do from pallet ))
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly... That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
Here is a lighter design, taller, with removable ramps. I used 2*3 instead of 2*4. You won't regret having a 24" 2*12 on top. ua-cam.com/video/s6lvqfVP28I/v-deo.html
What board did you guys use? I checked Home Depot, they have three different wood: Porcupine, THD Generic & CANFOR? Cost varies from $1.25 to $42 each.
Excellent video. Short to the point and easy to follow instructions. Will these home made ramps hold up to commercial truck traffic as a transition to a parking lot from a lower elevation roadway?
![[HOW TO] Build Wooden Garage Ramps for Vehicle Maintenance](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q8uPsanDRDo/mqdefault.jpg)
The Center of Gravity tip elevates this video to genius level
I can't wait to attach handles to everything!!!
Agreed, i would'nt have known how to find it!
thank you, my left ear really enjoyed this.
Been using a set like this for 20 plus years
I have my wooden ramps since the mid eighties, my sports car could not clear the incline on my steel ramps. Thirty five years, haven't failed me, don't need additional jack stands to get in the way and never rusted or warped. I would never use plastic ramps. Good video for safe car or truck maintenance ramps.
It took me 20 mins to do it. Thank you
I followed your instructions exactly and they are perfect! I have a sports sedan and no clearance issues at all driving up these ramps. I was going to buy plastic ramps but have always felt they were a bit sketchy. These ramps are so solid.
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires
Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly...
That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch .
It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
Would it be safer to mske it slightly longer in case car moves back it wont crash down??
Good idea. I'll try to make one set for my own instead of buying from the market.
Great idea! will copy your ramp project.
Center of gravity handles bro? I LOVE IT 🔥👌🏼
I came up with this idea today....thanks for showing me how to get it done right.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Also it's good to trim those fronts 45 degrees, making it easy to drive up.
Hahaha! First video I clicked on. I have the same green Outback, so it should work EXACTLY as shown! Thanks!
For all you who are fearful of the wood crushing or splitting under the weight of common American vehicles please consider the following. Kiln dried Western White Pine (a very common construction lumber) has a cross-grain compressive strength of 5,040 psi. The front axle gross weight rating of a 2021 Chevy Silverado 2500 is 4,400 pounds. The tires are LT265/60R20 with ground contact area of about 51.6 square inches each. So a fully loaded pickup truck weighs in at 42.63 pounds per square inch on the front tires. The rears would be about 63.95 psi. Both are well under the 5,040 compressive capacity of the wood mentioned.
What you should be fearful of is your 110 pound girlfriend wearing those spiked heals, she is putting down a load of 17,600 pounds per square inch . . .
Najlepsza jest sosna SYBERYJSKA...nie banderowska🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂 crushing
Awesome idea! I just need to change out the oil pan on my daughter's 2007 kia sportage, and was debating which ramp might be the safest on a gravel driveway considering plastic, metal, and cost since I'll probably never use them again. I have a pile of treated 2X8 lumber left over from a pool deck that I built, so this is the perfect solution!!
Love the ramps man even more with the handles. I was going to get the plastic amazon ones like everyone else here but reviews scared me. These are nice and wouldn't brake
I'm sold, simple and safer. I'm going to try this. Thanks. Cheers!
Great video, I was just trying to come up with something in my head last night I could, good thing I have lots of material laying around... Thanks!
Even uf they dont have scrap wood i VERY HIGHLY RECOMMEND paying the 40 bucks and building one of these and NOT buying the plastic ones. Just look at amazon to see how often those plastic ones collapse. Thats ya life bruh.
40 bucks? It's about 25 max assuming you have a drill. Home depot will cut the wood for ya
Those plastic ones only collapse when morons drive too far forward. They are designed to break once you drive off the end. That is to protect the vehicle.
At any rate, you should have jack stands under the car no matter what the ramps are made of. Wood can split, the vehicles weigh can shift causing the ramps to tip, or any other crazy thing can happen. Jack stands are just another level of security.
Even if the plastic doesn't fail immediately, every material fails eventually and plastic will develop microscopic faults much faster than metal or wood.
hydraulic jack and jack stands ftw
I made this today! All in all, from deciding to make it to getting the lumber, to finding everything I need at Home Depot, to getting it cut there, using janky tools to put it together, took about 2-3 hours. But it's so worth it! Even at full price, the lumber I got, which was 2"x12"x8' (2 in x 12 in x 96 in) cost me about $25. Way cheaper and much more gratifying than those super crappy and scary plastic ramps. I also did the oil change on my driveway, which had a slope of about 1-2 degrees, and drove the car onto the ramps with the car facing downhill. This gave me a few more inches and it actually felt quite roomy under the car :)
This is probably the easiest, safest homemade ramps
Well what do y know. I made the ramp today and have changed the oil and filter. Not only that but also drained the old coolant because of the ramps made today. Thanks for your help.
Cheap and heavy .. perfect!
I am a great welder but I don't trust that 2mm thick piece of steel to keep my father's car lifted
Your design is better, cheaper, can be trusted
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires
Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly...
That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch
It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
@@johnbravo2301 now you comment ? 😂
I noticed that and I actually made three
The first one I mad was a great success but had the issues you mentioned
I don't have a problem with the 90⁰... Well for now at least until I change the tires or the car :p
but the stress that it was putting in my engine and clutch was pretty scary and can be prevented that's why I made another one
the ones you built are MUCH MUCH better than the plastic ones..
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires
Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly...
That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch ,,,
It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
This project and video is so awesome and time saving; thanks; im building a set !!!!!!!
These ramps are better and safer than plastic ramps.
A really simple project, and still, the video manages to add value with the idea about putting the handle at the center of gravity. Nice!
I liked that as well
Thank you for your video. I really do appreciate it. Many other videos was not to my liking. This video was perfect. I attempted to use jack stands to change my oil and didn’t feel safe and not enough clearance. I then went to the store to buy rhino ramps and they were too high for my vehicle, the whole process was really disheartening and I began to get discouraged and frustrated.
I took your method and applied it to a 2x12x8 board. Went to Home Depot and they cut it for me. Thanks again your video helped me out so much!!!
Nice presentation. I would caution that many newer cars have a much lower clearance which means you'll be scraping against the ramp as you go up. You may need to spread out the spacing of the levels to avoid this problem, which will mean needing more wood.
What about cutting the edge of each piece in a 45° angle?
That's the greatest thing, you can make these exactly as you need them.
Where to get the rubber anti slip. No link
Wood glue will help and keep the boards steady. Cut the boards two at a time to get equal length after wood gluing. Thanks. Great idea. Better than plastic ramps.
I like how calmly you explain things not in a rush to end the video. Great job just subscribed.👍
I always get nervous driving up on ramps out of fear I'll drive off the ends. I had a pair of ramps with very deep intents at the top so the car would slow down on it own. That helped a lot. I have one suggestion for you ramps. Route the edges of the first 3 steps to make it easier to drive up and put a small thin block on the edge of the last step to keep the car from rolling back.
Thank you so much sir! But 2x8s are too narrow for me. If you’re willing to spend $50, used 2x12s instead. Here’s my measurement: 48”, 38”, 28” and 18”. All cuts are 45 degrees.
I like this because I have a truck with custom 22" rims and tires... Those measurements seem perfect for this application!!! Thanks!!!
Nice touch with those carry handles mate.
Considering the current price of wood, it's cheaper to install a lift right now, hahaha. Serious though, great video.
I will NEVER use the plastic ramps. EVER. I've seen one crack and shatter and that did it for me.
Love this. Have been on the fence about getting ramps but this is a clear win.
Plastic ones from Walmart won’t work when all you have is a gravel driveway. This is good for us rural guys.
I was on my way to autozone to buy some metal ramps, after watching this, I'm on my way to home depot to make my own, thanks guy!
May have been a good idea to cut each board edge at 45% to give less resistance going up. But well done.
Very helpful, Thank you!
Cheap n heavy 😂. 100 lbs of wood ramps
I'm going to make some for my army tank. Thx!!
Will making the oil change be possible since you have the car elevated from the front only? I’m only 16 and just now learning about cars
Yes, I use them to do oil changes all the time.
I really like the way you teach, it's very easy to follow
Man in this day and age this would be one expensive project 😆
Gonna build these! Thanks for the measurements!
My Home Depot are cheap assholes and would only do 2 cuts then start charging me per cut. I went to their competitor Menards and they let you use a miter saw and do as many cuts as you want. And they were cheaper
Great video. Saved me the hassle of figuring out lengths to cut.
If one gets oakwood, or stronger wood, they probably won't ever need to worry about the wood splitting, aye?
Greetings I am looking to build a 3 tier ramp for a Toyota sienna mini van, what size should each piece be length wise?
What a nicely made informative video with an emphasis on detail and safety. Thank you
You’re a genius! I’m building this for my next oil and coolant change! I’ve always felt unsafe working under my car only supported by jackstands.
Genius he is not ,,, here's why ... at least I tried to warn you
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires
Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly...
That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch
It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
@@johnbravo2301Your observation sounds perfectly reasonable. I’ll be making my ramps soon and I’ve decided to follow your advice and angle the edges.
Nice video and simple construction! I might try this with a 10' board to get an extra 1.5" height. Of course that would be a longggg ramp!
Do not buy the plastic ones they are garbage this is way stronger thanks for the vid.
Nice video. I made mine out of 2/12 but I only made mine 3 boards high for 4 1/2” of height for oil changes on my truck.
Clever, simple, fantastic, ingenious, great, useful and cheap!
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Thanks my friend. I will do it for my motorcycle. Cheers from Barcelona!
Good job, and I Like the rubber mat, handles, and the support ideas for sawing the boards instead of buying bulky saw horses...... Thanks!
The top piece is way to short.
Instructios concise and informative. Video easy to follow. Thx
16 penny nails work great
Thank you SO much for this!! Keep helping others ❤️❤️❤️ God bless you!
how thick is the board?
Congrats, great video, steps well explained.
These are much safer then plastic ramps. Good job.
Thanks to you I just made mine from scrap wood :)
Very thorough instructions. Thank you for sharing.
Here's another idea.. use 4 of those and lift the whole car.
Hol up... How are you going to get the second set under the car after you get it on the first set? You'll drive backwards to get on the second set and need come off the first ones
@@kurrizzle Please tell me you're joking? Obviously you would place all four ramps in front of the wheels and then drive up on all for ramps.
@@tif321dc Nope, I'm just really stupid. I have a small car with pretty low clearance so putting the ramps under the car didn't seem like an option. Guess your way works if you have a truck or SUV
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Cement the side of that
Thank you. Your video was very clear and thorough. Very strong and safe.
Great job! Thanks for sharing
Veri good tutorial , congrats and thank you !!
I'd use 4 of those for oil changes.
Super
Is it a good method for changing oils or because the car does not sit upright will oil remain in the crankcase?
On most cars the drain plug is towards the back of the engine, so raising the front actually helps draining more of the old oil 👍
Thank you very much. That video saved me some money.
Just remembered this video today so i made ramps for changing one part but then i watched more videos realized that i cant change parts that are attached to wheel so im going to buy jack stands and big jack so i can work on changing one part by my self so i dont have to go to mechanic for job that i can do by my self 🙂
Also since i need to change oils and filters its gonna help me out so much
Just made it.
Ty vm
Been using these for 15 years! Work great and very safe. Mine are a little taller and longer
@@stinkytofuz You can drive a tank on them!
Very clever & very simple Thanks
HI LOOKING AT THE REVERSING CAR ON THE RAMPS,,,, THE BOTTOM BOARD WANTS TO FLIP UP
SO IF YOU CUT THE FIRST LENGTH OF WOOD 6 INCHES LONGER AND THEN DO ALL THE SAME MEASUREMENTS BUT WITH THE EXTRA 6 INCHES STICKING OUT THE FRONT ,IT WONT TRY TO RAISE ,
The worst part about metal ramps is having them slip on concrete as you drive up or sink in the dirt if used in the yard.
Сколько видео я не смотрел, но это самое понятное и простое исполнение / How mush video i have seen about DIY ramp, but this video is extremely fine. Best. Thanks! Will go to do from pallet ))
great idea , gonna build ones the same as yours , thanks for measurements ;)
What a great idea, that I'd never thought of, seemingly so simple but very clever, thumbs up for sure! Alan, UK.
Well mate, perbaps go down th the FOX AND WOLF, AND KITTY , AND DOG PUB AND HAVE SOON NEWCASTLE ALE!!
Amazing! That's all I can say about this brilliant and cheap idea! Thanks a lot
Great video. I followed your design, and it has worked very well for me. Thanks for posting.
If your ramps look like his ,, fix them correctly .. you could be damaging your tires
Each riser should be cut on a 45 and not left on 90 which leaves a square edge ..that square edge can damage the steel ribs...two seconds and do it correctly...
That 90 degree edge places too must stress in a square inch
It may seem like a little issue but you will damage the tire if you use the ramp with 90 degree cuts and you repeat that damage 4-5 or 6 times depending on the amount of risers you will the damage separated by 6 or 8 inches...Plus any base should be wider than the object it supports.. Applied engineering would fail this ramp...not a fan of these techniques...
Here is a lighter design, taller, with removable ramps. I used 2*3 instead of 2*4. You won't regret having a 24" 2*12 on top. ua-cam.com/video/s6lvqfVP28I/v-deo.html
I just made these thanks to you! Appreciate it.
Gracias , muy util y facil de hacer.
What board did you guys use? I checked Home Depot, they have three different wood: Porcupine, THD Generic & CANFOR? Cost varies from $1.25 to $42 each.
Great instructional video.👍👍👍
Excellent video. Short to the point and easy to follow instructions. Will these home made ramps hold up to commercial truck traffic as a transition to a parking lot from a lower elevation roadway?
That's a cool idea, hard to say though, those trucks are HEAVY
I wonder why you shared the gaps between the boards with us? Just tell me the inches on the pole meter
Thanks for sharing
Very nice video!! 👍