How to test a crank sensor (Chrysler Dodge Jeep)
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- The testing methods shown in this video can be applied to all hall effect type crank and cam sensors.
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
I love that bit about half the battle in the field is trusting connections. I can't tell how many times I've went back and checked things again just to try and be 100% certain.
Mr. Danner you're a gentleman and a scholar by far the best knowledgeable auto mechanic video's on UA-cam!!! my diagnostic abilities have doubled if not even tripled since watching your videos thank you very much
+mike chainz thank you Mike! And I hope your income earnings are not far behind (double or triple what it used to be)
Danner another great lesson on diagnostic process. even as a master tech I still love your videos. thank you for sharing.
Share the knowledge master. We all need a little push and of course what is involved in becoming a master. Investment in tools and testing equipment.
Dude! You are brilliant!! I need you to work on all of my cars. You make it look easy.
What do you call SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is Sir ScannerDanner
Thank you
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Another great real world video. Thank you for what you do for us! Blessings!
Paul, i'm a Chrysler tech, on Chrysler products, the cel stays on with key on, engine not running. Once the engine starts, if there are no codes that require the cel to be on, the light will go out. Nicely done vid. I have an Ethos scantool that can show the signal outputs either in numerical form or in graph form. The graph form is a nice feature that really helps.
I always love it when someone shows you how to test something with something not everyone can afford!
watch this one for the basic voltmeter tests of the same type of sensor
ua-cam.com/video/yp_kK6U8a64/v-deo.html
If you look at this through another lens you will realize how valuable the information is in this video even for a DIYer with a basic scan tool and a voltmeter.
Thanks, the video goes to show you how complicated it is to service a car sometimes. There's a lot of things that can throw your mind off . Good job,you are a good tech, keep up the good work..
You really tortured yourself back probing the connector several times to prove a point but it was all worthwhile. Nothing better than a real life practical example. A+ as usual. Take care man
+Ozzstar haha I did
fantastic , this with your other videos presents a well rounded knowledge based approach to trouble shooting all kinds of inductive sensors.
Hehehe!!!!!! Ive actually diagnosed a few crank sensors on this same exact engine/model thanks to your methods paul. Another thing to look out for from what Ive seen a few times already is the wires to the crank sensor connector and the oil pressure semsor just underneath tend to get really brittle and bare and will actually melt together over time causing a no start. Ive diagnosed that one a few times too and once again thanks to your methods!!!!! Anyways just one more thing for anyone wanting to make the repair Im a big guy with big hands I find it easiest to jack up the vehicle. Lower the transmission crossmember to drop the rear of the tranny which will tilt the transmission and give you access to the one bolt (11mm) holding the ckp in cheers!!
+Goenitz Lopez thanks brother!
hi paul,that is nice when you take time to explain the details of your testing and pid data.pid data is able to tell a story. keep the videos rolling brother.
Dan, thank you for being an actual technician in a world of mechanics and grease monkeys. I relate to you'r videos more than any of these other garbage diy automobile channels
Thanks for spending the extra time Paul.
I like that lil bypass test on the crank sensor..helped me to confirm cranksensor failure..when it would warm up it would shut down..sensor wire went to 0..anyway thankz helped me out
More blessings to you for this greater video
Excellent vid Paul , I like your test light :)
Hello teacher I like you and I want to learn more about electric cars
It's great when the reasoning behind the sensors is explained, but not everyone has the several-hundred bucks to buy a scan-tool that we'll use once or twice. Any auto store will require a deposit on the tool before loaning it, usually, so that's not always helpful. The videos showing what can be done using a multi-meter are the most helpful.
i have always wonder, "wowwww paul danner is so good that he never has trouble when he connects the scope, he always gets the signals at firts", haha im sorry paul, but it was i litle funny see you struggling with the connections the same way than everybody else! still you are the best!!!!!!
:-)
Thanks brother
I believe that you are the best.👍
Can't think of anything more to say. Just another excellent diagnosis.
+wysetech2000 thanks man!
This just happened to me this morning in my 2012 JKU. I recorded it so I didn't sound like an idiot trying to describe the sound. My Jeep shut off while driving it. Trying to restart gave me the same crank sound that your getting. 30 minutes and tow truck later, it turned over no problem and the only code that showed up was ECM.
Those jeeps display engine trouble codes in the odometer if you perform the ignition key procedure. The crank sensor lives near the bell housing on the driver's side.
now to review my pull up vs pull down sensor theory..great vid thanks dan.
+Landon Hiebert did you see the card I added with my section 2 playlist? You can start there
Hi Paul great video ... never an old technique simulate signals with a test light to determine circuit condition right !!! Merry christmass from Fresno CA
Great video!!!!
thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!!!
Good quick tests..what us flat raters love
Very smart man..... I learned something today ! and subscribed. Thank you
Does that sensor activates the fuel pump or has something to do with the prime for the pump
It lets the ecu know which cylinder is up near the TDCenter.
Man I wish you could look at 96 caddy deville. It cranks strong but won't start. My crank sensors have oil and dirt on them. But the way they are position is hard to unscrew that 10mm bolt to release them. And where is my camshaft sensor located. I see a wire in front but I don't see where the sensor could be. If I search Online the camshaft and crank sensor look a like. 3 weeks and counting trying to find the problem.
Thanks for this!
Excellent video Paul.
You rock brother!!!!
Thanks for this 🙏🏻
Are aftermarket sensors no good ?
great video once again Paul nice work
Nice work Paul
Hello. Love the videos. Been a great help to say the least. I don't know if you ever fix Subaru's I will have to check back on your older videos. Keep getting that awful P2138 where the car goes into limp mode and only idles, no response from the gas pedal darn dangerous. I have read all the forums,no luck have already tried it and some they haven't. Seems even the dealership can't find or fix the problem from what I have read. Maybe someone here can help.
All my best.
Bobby
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there.
Paul Danner (ScannerDanner)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Hello Mr Danner. Thank you so much for the fast reply, I understand just how busy you are,so much respect for you taking the time. It was my hope some of your viewers may have ran into this, I have joined the forum and looking forward to more videos from you.
All my best.
Bobby
excellent vidios, thank you for sharing with us your knoledge.
how can I buy your book. I am from Mexico and am interested in it.
blessings and take care
Thank you! It is available through my website at www.scannerdanner.com
A wealth of great info as usual Paul. I have a question, with the CKP unplugged why is 5V present on the signal wire? I always thought the signal wire was just an input to the PCM, why is 5v present there? Or did I misunderstand?
It's a pull-down signal circuit. There are pull-up designs too. Check out more videos in my Chapter 2 playlist right here on YT and also on my website if you're interested
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
losing communication towards the end b.c. of voltage dropping so low with a toasted bat. and jump pack?
I dont think you can do a bypass test with the sensor plugged in using a testlight since it will fail to pull the reference from its path due to to the much, much higher resistance than the path the reference is already taking (be it to signal or ground).
+Schrodingers Box you absolutely can but you must measure signal voltage first. A low signal can be caused by the drive plate window itself. This is why we unplug the sensor, to eliminate that variable
Even the best learn from the best...😎
great job paul thanks for sharing
If you didn’t have a scope, can you use a test light to see if it flashes on the crankshaft sensor as it pulls the voltage down to ground? Or if you had a noid light?
I have a video showing how to do this with a voltmeter. Basically you have to bump the starter over
Great video
Could a p0344 camshaft sensor be a problem with timing? Ive changed cam sensor and crank and still showing p0344 and want start
what are you working on? what is the definition of the P0344? Also, a faulty crank sensor can cause cam sensor codes and vice versa on Chrysler systems
The 3 wires on my chev utility crank sensor pulled out.thr are coloured green., the other black with pink stripe and brown. Two of them rerad 5v. To put back on sensor wich is labelled 1 and 3. Which wire goes where.the black one is earth.
My sensor turned out to be good. When I remove it and bench test it, it works as expected. Re install it, keep the bench connections so that the only variable is now the reluctor doing the input. I crank it and get nothing. Reluctor stuck maybe?
great when you have a $10,000 Crap-on scope. why don't you use the inexpensive tool for demo? I'm sure your friends will provide one for you.
Look past the tool and apply the knowledge to what you have. Obviously you won't see a momentary glitch or drop out of a fast signal with a meter, you need a scope for that.
Or just complain some more about a free education.
@@ScannerDanner nobody said to use a meter and BTW nothing is free, not even you.The point was you are using a tool which not even the above average joe can afford. You can not look past the tool if you are demonstrating with it. Use a tool thats more affordable to the average person, if you can that is.
@@jet6374 here you go, this may be what you are looking for ua-cam.com/video/pwuYVlCZNBI/v-deo.html
I'm not going to use basic tools to appease the masses. I use them when possible but I'm not here for the masses. If you take a step back and truly watch what I am doing and listen, there are techniques that can be applied using more basic tools. Especially the unplug it test I showed using just a graphed voltage. Something that can be DIRECTLY applied using a dmm.
In the video link I just added here, I am showing the WEAKNESS of a dmm while trying to measure a crank sensor signal. Why would I start with a tool that has weaknesses?
Hey Paul what jump pack do you now use ?
+martinguitarhd28 this one, mainly because it is the only one I own. ua-cam.com/video/IjjB5-pnj2I/v-deo.html
Great vid Danner. How come you didn't check air, spark, fuel and compression and use that as a form of direction to the failed crank sensor?
+Jodi D I had a code for the crank sensor, so I went straight to it.
@@ScannerDanner Danner, should I have 5 volts at my cam, and crank sensor, at the constant, and signal wire, with the key off in my 2011 ram 5.7?
Paul I have a 06 or 07 vw tdi brm diesel, the head was removed that caused this problem, in processes I can't old cam sensor. VW dealer wants to sell 3 wire and only plug not installed is is a 2 wire. Is it possible to hook to trunk wires at bottom of engine. I need some guidance Please
Just curious but how would your approach change with a crank no start condition on a vehicle with an interference type engine? I like your case studies and follow both channels but don't remember if you ever had to address this variable on any of the vids I've seen. Keep up the great work Paul..
+Johnny M no need to worry. I'm not changing valve timing just ignition timing
i have a none related question to this video which is great btw...I am from Europe and i whas wondering is Snap on Verus a good on European cars?By that i mean bidirectional mode and detailed reading of almoast all sensors..Is it the American cars PCM that allows that or is it just a Verus entering all that data?tnx you are great :-)
@ScannerDanner what is it Jeep Grand Cherokee no start week? I did 2 just yesterday, one bad PCM one bad crank position sensor.
Hi thank u for sharing ur knowledge. DO have any book about all the lesson that u are tought ur stdents.I'm level two motor vehicle learner.Thanks
Yes I do. I have a book and an online course available from my website at www.scannerdanner.com
Thanks for your interest!
thanks thanks thanks Paul Danner very cool you are great thanks
What about a P1391 code but the jeep runs my cam on a graph from a snap on scanner seems right the CkP is jumping from 0 to 340 or so but it starts up rough and idles like crap I have replaced both camp and CkP 3 diff times
Mr.Danner, what are your thoughts on dorman, standard motor, duralast, etc., aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Are there really that many issues with them, or do they get a bad name from untrained and less than competent diy folks?
Watch my 3 part series on. Hyundai EVAP large leak code which was ultimately caused by an aftermarket part.
This is a very real problem! I've seen more junk over the past 5 years than ever before in my almost 30 years as a tech.
I'm having a p320 the jeep throws the cle, I can run torque pro but it doesn't show the the trouble code is active. I recently just last p340 and high output codes from tps, cats, iac, and air temp sensors. I cleaned my battery( it's 4 years old) cables up and reconnected them, the first set of codes went away, ran fine for 2 days then the p320 showed up. Could a weak battery or alternator cause issues with the sensor?
Great video as usual! Are you focusing more on your Premium channel now as we dont see as many videos here as we used to?
+dreamer2355 I'm still trying to upload 1 video per week here. But yes, I have a TON of great stuff on the premium channel. Want a coupon for a free month?
Id love one. I'm trying to learn all I can from you. 15 year mechanic and still learning. Got to love it.
06 magnum 2.7L c2202 , u0100 ABS SIDE OF scanner. I changed spark plugs that's when all the problems happened. can u help or guide me to possible failure
David MDR My dodge ram stalled 2 days after changing spark plugs dang thing cranks but won't start ! did you find your promblem thanks
sir i would just like to ask if do you have any video that you do engine performance diagnose on any diesel common rail engine vehicle??
No sir, we have almost no diesel cars here in the states
@scannerdanner, do you plan on releasing a new version of the book with corrections or are your books revised every now and then? I heard that in ome of your videos where you mentioned Kyle doing minor adjustments and my assumption was that there will be another version. I plan to buy the book that's why I ask.
The one I have available is the final version of this book. Anything new in the future will just be another book or video lessons on my Premium channel, which is what I am doing now.
This book is absolutely the foundation of everything I do and teach. Thanks so much for your interest!
Hey Paul, which video would you recommend me, no start no injector pulse without the use of lab scope, I don't have one but I think it's the cam or crank sensors, it's on a Mitsubishi Galant 2000 2.4 , I have power and ground going to fuel pump, but power to injectors when cranking , any help thanks
By the way I enjoy your videos I'm learning some at my age not being a professional
Post your question here Josue (I think I have seen you on the forum already right?)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
So the ground wire in the center has a pulse also? Can that be tested with a test light ? I’m getting the 5 volts and when cranking it does draw the 5 volts on one side down. But with a test light connected to the battery positive and on the cam sensor plug ground it doesn’t pulse. It just stay lite
An LED type test light possibly, but not an incandescent light because you'll just pull the signal to ground
@@ScannerDanner so the grounds going from the pcm to the cam and crank sensor should have a pulse other than a steady ground? It just depends on the testing method as to whether you can see the pulse? I need a scope for sure
No, the grounds should be near 0v all the time (less than 100mv)
Danner can you watch Diagnostic Soup with John Anello on the TSTSeminars channel from 35:10 - 38:45 and tell me what you think and if you've ever seen it happen because i would think the reference voltage and biased voltage would come from the same regulator and throw a variable in checking ref and biased voltage on chryslers and other oems that use similar strategies.
+Andre Moss when I get a chance. Thanks!
Hi have a 2010 Chrysler town and country. I have 5 V on all three wires to my crank position sensor. Whether plugged in or not
You have a bad sensor ground circuit. Are any other sensors showing the same thing?
@@ScannerDanner I did not check. I will go back to the car on Sunday. I spend my time just looking for A broken wire and checking the grounds. The van starts after a 3 to 5 second crank and it runs rough With the check engine light flashing. No misfire codes just the crank sensor code.
That makes sense. These systems can run without the crank sensor. But you'll have an extended crank time as it will use the cam sensors alone to determine when to fire.
Since it does run, this suggests that the problem may only be affecting the crank sensor.
Are there any other codes?
This is definitely a bad ground to that sensor.
We need to look at a diagram and see what else shares that ground or if it has its own ground.
These sense grounds, go to the PCM, not the engine block or battery ground. So your options for faults here are:
1. An open in the crank sensor ground wire between the sensor and PCM
2. A bad main PCM ground (but this would effect ALL of the sensors)
3. A bad PCM
These computers are garbage on these and fail all the time.
We MUST check the crank sensor ground wire right at the computer itself. If it read 5v on that pin, and there are no other sensors effected, then most likely the PCM is bad.
If it is my car? I'm running an external ground to that sensor circuit (don't cut the wires, just tap into it and ground it) and then see how it does. You may be able to get away with that repair.
@@ScannerDanner Thank you sir. I appreciate it.
have you came across a bad sensor that causes delay in signal? my friends acura takes about 7 seocnds of cranking before the injectors even get a signal to fire.friends at work so im doing some rsearch before we attack it but im heading towards crank and cam sensors first.
this cars tricky because its a integra with tsx engine and rsx harness with standalone ecu for rsx (rfsx uses k20 and tsx k24 pretty much same engines other then displacement and a few things)
not only is the delay in signal but its also in limp mode where rev limits around 3k rpm and a hesitation when you snap throttle like its fuel starving but its not.
being a hodge podge of different car parts i have to consider if it needs a rsx sensor or the fact it was automatic thats been manual swapped,if the sensor gets signal from plate in bell housing it could be somthing here.
i think ill check when spark is firing and compare that to pressure transduer compression waveform to start.
signal on scan data or an actual measurement at the injector itself? Does spark do the same thing?
I googled to find out to test a crank sensor instead I got an hour long test on why I should not do crank
What are you working on? Year, make, model, engine size? I can help or guide you to the correct video and I promise to not use terms you won't understand 😉
Is the 5 volts on the signal wire unplugged a bias voltage? Thank u!!
no sir, it is not. It is a pull-down signal circuit. Totally different than a bias used for open and short circuit testing. (Chapter 2 stuff Bill)
How I can buy e-book
I don't know whether youtube or firefox won't let me post the link to the video
I liked the grounding of the test light in combo with the Verus ....But I dont have a 10000 dollar Verus ..but I do have a 6$ scope on a rope :)
+deepsquat600 don't need the 10k Verus, just a scan tool that provides some oem data. Which in this case was cam and crank PIDs. A generic scan tool with global only data will not show you these.
ok thanks .. I will check to see if my provides that ..still I did like that test of generating your own grounding and having it trigger the "signal" ..great video
What's Up super boy !! 😄
😆
wonder how many times he said pete u need a crank sensor lol😄
If I didn't know any better I would think that Pete needs a crank sensor.
i tell ya i just cant understand all the different computer talk is this explained in your book
+Russell Snyder yes but even more so on my premium channel. With the purchase of either version of my book you will be given a coupon for a free month of my premium channel
Do you know anyone in Jacksonville Florida who does this kind of work?
Most likely. Are you on Facebook? Find me there and I can help you find someone
hi paul i have aquestion here if u plz could i use 5 k khom resistance as a jump er between 5 volt refrence and signal wire to identify if the circuit is ok as you did while testing Tps sensor before thanx in advance
yes you can, an incandescent test light works too
ScannerDanner
thanx bro from the eastern side of the world your student here pray to god to bless you , best of luck man
will this be the same on a cummins?
IS it a 3 -wire sensor? Then it will be similar. May not be exactly the same circuit design (as far as pull-up or pull-down)
i like like the video dan but i dont have those nice tool you so how will you do this test if you didint have thes tools let me know thanks
+pedro rodriguez use a scan tool that provides cam and crank data PIDS and then a basic scope will do
THANKS DAN
I like watching you how can I get your book
+James Chesser www.scannerdanner.com thanks!
Paul on cam and crank sencers are u using all factory
christler parts ??
Whenever possible
Never heard of christler parts.
Where are you located at SaTexas
Pittsburgh pa
do you ever show how to change out this crank sensor?It's in a tough spot to access easily. I didn't know if you have any tips on how to do the change out.
how you turn your test light into a jumper wire without blowing the fuse?
+Xrio Sankara knowing circuit design is key. Also you wouldn't blow a fuse here if done incorrectly (there is no fuse) but you could damage the PCM (even worse than blowing a fuse)
as he explained in the vid, What he was doing with the test light, hooked up to battery negative is exactly what the sensor does. pulls the signal to ground.
where are your safety glasses scanner danner...?
+jerrod buffington M.I.A. :)
+ScannerDanner just kidding bro.. love the videos.. it's making me a better tech for sure.
Using a jumper wire is a bit of a dangerous possibility to point out here. Hall sensor is taking the 5v. and pulling it 'hard' to ground, but this is NOT the case on all signal wires. Most of the sensors are putting resistance between feed and the full ground, in so reducing the amps. Would you test such signals (which at times is the falling of feed voltage like with temp sensors) by using jumpers, you could really damage the ECU. Not a fan of telling people that 'jumpers can be used'...
+Henk Moesker perfectly safe to use a jumper wire on a temp sensor circuit
+ScannerDanner A Ford recommended test procedure (for testing wiring integrity) on an older EEC-IV system that did not support data stream:
For a "circuit high trouble code" do the following: jump the ECT signal to the ECT ground wire, then re-scan the codes. It should now set a circuit low code telling you wiring is good.
ScannerDanner You are so right, temp sensor is a bad example indeed. Still it feels eary to me to just shorten out a voltage that is being supplied and monitored by the ECU, it just gives mee the creeps to think how many amps can go through there. Not when it already is regulated by resistors ofcourse.
ECU's are protected anyway these days, just had and EVAP solenoid which had a steady feed but on the control wire spiked plus and minus for about 30-40v.! Guess a bad coil in the solenoid with unloading spikes but the Ecu was not hurt, even though this is going on for ages (I know cause it resulted in a rattling valve in the EVAP box but that had been going on for ages, as the client told me).
Ow and for testing, I think your advise to use a test light with relative low amps/high resistance, does je job for signal wires just fine and always keeps you on the safe side. It's in your book, it's in your video classes, and I think you gave good advise there!
+Henk Moesker thanks Henk and it is never a bad thing to error on the side of caution, right?
Top Man
Thank you for watching!
Us backyard mechanics can't afford big computers and diagnostic equipment like you guy's have on these videos. We have the voltage meters from harbor freight. We take our cars and trucks to autozone get a reading and print out, swap the part and we are done with it. Most of us can't afford to have someone do what you are doing here in this video. The ford dealership told my girlfriend that they wanted 165.00 just to diagnose her 2014 Ford escape. They also told her that prices have just gone up. I took the car to autozone got code reader got the print out bought the part for 70.00 dollars and fixed it myself. The dealer wanted 165.00 to diagnose and who knows how much for the part. And that is the same at the Dodge dealership, ridiculous.
Watch what I'm doing and adapt the tests to the tools you own. 😉
My videos are more directed to the technician, not the DIYer, but that doesn't mean you can't learn from them! I've created many technicians from the DIY crowd. 😉
The idea here is to learn how to use your tools and minimize mistakes as in buying a sensor when you really didn’t need one and you still have the problem as as in if the cam sensor calls a false crankshaft sensor code. As described in an earlier video, just keep watchingand maybe you’ll wanna change professions and you’ll be grateful to get paid for what you know just a thought. Good luck.
@@craigbaggett3370 got you.
You forgot to show the jump-box connections popping off, and the box falling onto the ground and breaking. Wanna show all the kids just how frustrating back-probing can be on a lot of sensors.
+geoffrwelsh haha
I don't know Paul, All that time wasted. You could have just hit the "Fix it" icon on your scan tool and taken care of the problem :-)
+Blazer02LS lol
Great video. But this how to test a sensor with really expensive pro equipment . With someone years of training and experience. That's able to interpret that information
Which can be applied to more basic tools if you understand what is actually happening. You need to look at this differently. I have MANY DIYers out there who follow along and are learning to use their equipment more effectively. Also, you can get a single channel lap scope for just a few hundred dollars.
Man I have been broke down with my Jeep since oct .. it just shut down on me. It would run for 2 miles or 20 .. but it just finally stopped either cranking or staying running if it did crank... Just a lot of little things it's done too . Mainly with the fuses inside and the relays. I had a coil pack put in it just for starters.. no luck there. I finally found some one with a computer , a small one and got code for crank shaft position sensor and put a new one on..so now it will turn over but not cranking . But before it was put in it would crank at least but it had started back firing last few times it did crank..so I don't know what to think or do.. gonna try and get a comp on it again. Maybw I have a bad sensor from manufacturing.!! So irritated by it all for sure..
Do u think it may have jumped time? It's a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4!!
My husband was a excellent mechanic but he passed away 3 yrs ago . I'm bout ready to go to automotive school my self..!! Can't find a good ole mechanic to come to ya home anymore...lol .
And I was having to undo a battery cable cause thought the radio was draining it but I unplugged radio and after bout two weeks it still drained the new battery so got another battery ..uughhh...
oooooo 1 point danner
👍🌷🌷🌷
It would be nice to see a how to video for those of us who don't have $2000 test instruments.
Ask and you shall receive ua-cam.com/video/TXKf96wqaoU/v-deo.html