you talk, you try, you climb, you walk, you try again, ... and you create spectacular portraits. You are a great master because you always know where to arrive and you make us arrive together with you. Thank you!
Watching the video again. You have watch for the great tips. I see if I can make some grayscale photos of myself before end of the year. Thanks for the tips!!
This is a great educational video. Mono is all about tones, textures, shadow and sculpting with light. You did this beautifully. I would have done the shoot again off camera with a film back on loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus. I wonder what you would have got...🙂
Love content like this. I dont have a studio and I only have a couple nice lights. I work with most of the local dance studios doing all their portrait work. This style of content is fantastic. Thanks!
Dance studios make amazing studios. 3 lights, a bg stand, a roll of each of Thunder grey and of white and you’re set. Swap free shoots for studio time on their slowest days or after hours and you’re rolling! Do it! I started exactly like that with 3 speed lights 15 yrs ago.
I’m surprised he doesn’t utilize the grouping, remote control hub and integrated measuring capabilities of those lights. No running around. Test, measure, adjust, test, shoot. Then just one trip to move the light and done. I’d be lost without my meter. Old habits die hard I guess. Gorgeous results!
As a studio photographer, I think light meter only gives you a technically correct measurement. You always need to adjust the lighting intensity, directions etc. to match your artistic goal.
His manual method is probably developed over decades prior to modern radio triggers. And of course he wants to show that anyone with a simple setup can succeed. And clearly it works. But to start now as a new photographer and ignore the tech is a bit stubborn. Using a meter is just faster. With a meter you can read the values and see the shot in your mind before it’s taken. Like reading a histogram it’s a very useful tool. When I owned a studio I used a remote hub with integrated meter (Paul Buff). So I could measure, adjust, measure all around the light array individually and in groups. Then hit ALL and shoot. After that it’s just a matter of changing angles or location to suit. Setting up that way lets you spend more time shaping light and posing subjects. No more running back and forth to every light then back to the camera. You stand beside the model and pop, pop, pop. And if you tether or control the camera from an iPad you can see the results on your monitor without ever having to move. I calculated I saved 15 minutes in a 2 hr session this way when I was young and mobile. As I age I appreciate it more.
You'd think that for the price that Broncolor is charging for their lights, you'd be able to control them with a remote or an app instead of having to climb up on a ladder to make adjustments. Switch to Godox ;--)
All broncolor lights can be controlled from an App, also the more expensive power packs such as Scoro or Satos can be controlled from your desktop within other tethered software.
It depends if you want them to look old and wrinkly or less old and wrinkly? If it's the former then a single point light source from an acute 'grazing' angle will reveal more texture. For the latter then the opposite is true and that is to use a very large soft light source that is perpendicular to their face and also using a parabolic reflector is an alternative as it 'fills' in wrinkles quite well. To see comparisons on lighting modifiers and the results they provide please use our free app: visualeducation.com/lighting-comparison-tool/
Hi, It's often worth considering creating the best lighting you can on your subject and not compromising it by having to lower the height of a light to bring a catchlight into the eyes. A catchlight can be added to eyes in post with about 30 seconds work and then you can still retain the lighting setup you wanted for your subject. An effective catchlight in an eye is essentially just a round almost white dot but if you make them in post and then set the transparency to 80 percent it allows you to see through them a little making them look very realistic.
you talk, you try, you climb, you walk, you try again, ... and you create spectacular portraits. You are a great master because you always know where to arrive and you make us arrive together with you. Thank you!
First-class video, Karl. You are one of the very best photography educators I have watched and listened to. Thank you.
As always helpful, informative and inspiring! Big thanks to you and your wonderful team Karl! Good luck and Happy Holidays!
Thanks, we are glad you liked it! Happy Holidays to you too!
@@VisualEducationStudio Thank you so much! ❤🙏
Great demonstration and outcome. Very clear, very concise and immediately usable.
This is one of the best content I came across today! Well done
Again, another great one from the “Master of Light” You keep sharpening and challenging our skills for this passion!
Thanks for keep being the hero !
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
This may be the best video I’ve ever seen on portraiture
Great to hear, check out part 1 and some of our other videos too.
So glad I finally found your channel after 5 years 6:50 studding photography, full time
Some more great tips, especially about using darker grey for backdrops. Thanks Karl!
Part 2 was every bit as good as part 1. Well done
Great, thanks for watching.
Watching the video again. You have watch for the great tips. I see if I can make some grayscale photos of myself before end of the year. Thanks for the tips!!
Awesome quality lesson learnt alot
This is a great educational video. Mono is all about tones, textures, shadow and sculpting with light. You did this beautifully. I would have done the shoot again off camera with a film back on loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus. I wonder what you would have got...🙂
Love content like this.
I dont have a studio and I only have a couple nice lights. I work with most of the local dance studios doing all their portrait work. This style of content is fantastic. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Dance studios make amazing studios. 3 lights, a bg stand, a roll of each of Thunder grey and of white and you’re set. Swap free shoots for studio time on their slowest days or after hours and you’re rolling!
Do it!
I started exactly like that with 3 speed lights 15 yrs ago.
Beautiful I learned a lot from this session and the last video thank you and your time.
Glad you enjoyed them.
The information on lighting, and posing is great for personal work or campaign. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely wonderful, you are a truly Master
Very kind, thank you
Amazing stuff, Master, bless your heart, very grateful, stay wonderful, may the Lord keep you healthy and happy for us :)
The result is always the best congratulations once again Karl Taylor
Thank you.
superb! thank you so much
Awesome… thank you
Great videos . Karl remind me of a young Donald Pleasence :)
Bravo Maestro
Love it
Please the link can I buy this stand light ???
Is it just me or is the model beautiful? One light wow
I’m surprised he doesn’t utilize the grouping, remote control hub and integrated measuring capabilities of those lights. No running around. Test, measure, adjust, test, shoot. Then just one trip to move the light and done. I’d be lost without my meter.
Old habits die hard I guess. Gorgeous results!
Why not use a light meter to avoid the guessing of light intensity?
As a studio photographer, I think light meter only gives you a technically correct measurement. You always need to adjust the lighting intensity, directions etc. to match your artistic goal.
Because it's faster and free to shoot a test
His manual method is probably developed over decades prior to modern radio triggers. And of course he wants to show that anyone with a simple setup can succeed. And clearly it works. But to start now as a new photographer and ignore the tech is a bit stubborn. Using a meter is just faster.
With a meter you can read the values and see the shot in your mind before it’s taken. Like reading a histogram it’s a very useful tool. When I owned a studio I used a remote hub with integrated meter (Paul Buff). So I could measure, adjust, measure all around the light array individually and in groups. Then hit ALL and shoot. After that it’s just a matter of changing angles or location to suit. Setting up that way lets you spend more time shaping light and posing subjects. No more running back and forth to every light then back to the camera. You stand beside the model and pop, pop, pop.
And if you tether or control the camera from an iPad you can see the results on your monitor without ever having to move. I calculated I saved 15 minutes in a 2 hr session this way when I was young and mobile. As I age I appreciate it more.
You'd think that for the price that Broncolor is charging for their lights, you'd be able to control them with a remote or an app instead of having to climb up on a ladder to make adjustments. Switch to Godox ;--)
All broncolor lights can be controlled from an App, also the more expensive power packs such as Scoro or Satos can be controlled from your desktop within other tethered software.
❤
how do you photograph old wrinkly people
It depends if you want them to look old and wrinkly or less old and wrinkly? If it's the former then a single point light source from an acute 'grazing' angle will reveal more texture. For the latter then the opposite is true and that is to use a very large soft light source that is perpendicular to their face and also using a parabolic reflector is an alternative as it 'fills' in wrinkles quite well. To see comparisons on lighting modifiers and the results they provide please use our free app: visualeducation.com/lighting-comparison-tool/
Certainly simpler to use a flash meter, this avoids having to work with the pifometer as you are doing here.
I prefer to eyeball it so that all of my decisions are made on how I think it looks.
Problem is with last set up is zero catch light in eyes and makes the model look like lifeless !
Hi, It's often worth considering creating the best lighting you can on your subject and not compromising it by having to lower the height of a light to bring a catchlight into the eyes. A catchlight can be added to eyes in post with about 30 seconds work and then you can still retain the lighting setup you wanted for your subject. An effective catchlight in an eye is essentially just a round almost white dot but if you make them in post and then set the transparency to 80 percent it allows you to see through them a little making them look very realistic.