2A. Astrophotography Filters - LRGB and Narrowband
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 лют 2020
- In the second video of the Dedicated Astro Camera Course we're going to take a look at the various filters available for a monochrome camera. The two main options are LRGB and Narrowband. You will at least need a set of LRGB filters to create a color photo with a monochrome camera. We'll also talk about filter wheels, which will make things much easier!
For more information, please read my article:
www.peterzelinka.com/blog/202...
You can also read the AgenaAstro article here:
agenaastro.com/articles/guide...
Old , still cleared up the subject for me, cheers.
Very precise information. Thank you.
Very nice video Peter, an excellent description of the use of filters. I'm mostly a visual observer but am starting to mess around with photography and have a full 80mm rig set up. You basically confirm everything I've learned about this in the last two years. You have made purchases based on a thought process that is nearly identical to mine.
Awesome review... Thanks a bunch :-)!
Thanks Peter that is a really good walk through.I was also told by some really good Astro imagers that they don't use the L filter and just let as much light in as possible.So they use RGB still do a "clear" image but just don't use a L filter as such.
The last full moon I tried the Ha filter.It is amazing the results you can get.Ha and SII worked ok but the OIII was still affected by the full moon and wasn't really useable.But using the Ha and SII will at least speed up how much data you can get.It always seems to be clear during the full moon!!!
Extremely helpful.
This explains a lot. Thank you.
Thanks to clear this up.
Best regards.
Great job! Thanks a lot !
You’re an excellent teacher.
Great discussion, Peter. Like you, I went with the 7-position ZWO EFW and 36-mm filters. Opted for the slightly more expensive Astronomik LRGB filters, partly because I could get them faster during the COVID supply-line disruptions.
One thing that opponents of monochrome cameras fail to point out is that when you opt for a color camera, you automatically take a hit on spatial resolution due to the Bayer mask. And since every pixel has either an R, G or B filter over it and a microlens, the number of photons captured per second is roughly a third that of a monochrome camera. While this makes little difference for the RGB bands other than the loss in spatial resolution (i.e. whether color camera or monochrome, you're filtering out ~2/3rds of the visible spectrum with each), if you just want a full-spectrum monochrome image, you take a big hit on sensitivity: the monochrome camera will capture the same amount of light in about 1/3rd the time.
Awesome video......learnt heaps..
Very helpful!
Many thanks
I've been doing research. Just bought a 1600MM and 533MC. And bought the 5-position EFWmini 1.25. I'm reconsidering whether I should do 7-position in a larger size before I go too much further.
People say that ZWO and Baader LRGB can cause some star halos. I've heard Astronomik solves this problem. And of course Astrodon and Chroma do as well. So I'm looking to go with Astronomik.
📙💯
Great information. I have a question Peter if it is possible to do LRGB astrophotography from a light polluted area, using a combination of some light pollution filter with the lrgb filters. That would be the middleway between lrgb and narrowband.
Hello! This helped so much! I have a question about light pollution filters and the L filter in LRGB. When capturing light from a light polluted city, would you replace the L in LRGB with a light pollution filter? Or still capture the L and also light pollution data? And if you do have to capture both L and light pollution reduced data, when/how would you include that data in the processing? Thank you so much!
I live in a very polluted area . Do you recommend to use LRGB and a narrow band filters with My Space cat or i can just use optolong pro filter to mimize the light pollution ?
Thank you. Nice video!
You dont talk about par focal between the different filters.
Is that a big issue?
I have the SV48p which is well known for its bloating and halos and I recently got the SV231 to help with my halos. I find similar results. Is it perfect? No. But I paid $50 shipped and it reduces it by close to 80%. Worth it to me.
I'm just getting into astrophotography with a lightweight set-up. An unmodified Canon 80D with the Star Adventurer tracking mount, various camera lenses and i have a William Optics Red Cat 51. My area is class 5 bortle according to the Clear Outside App.. I'm thinking about clip in L-Pro deep sky filter by Optolong? I want to do one shot exposures or maybe multi exposures with stacking and minimal if any post processing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've got a video on the LPro here on UA-cam. It's a pretty good filter and helps to bring out the nebula
5:20 But the ZWO website says “narrow band filters do not eliminate the effect of light pollution”. I’m confused, could you please clarify? Thanks!
I'm a beginner
And obtaining ideas
What brand computer is best recommend for editing camera and astrophotography?
I am a subscriber who admires your work, but my language is Spanish, with which I use subtitles and automatic translation, however some of your videos, like this one, I do not have available, so I could investigate, it is necessary that the user of the channel activates them. You would be so kind to activate them always. I'll be very greatful.
PS: Sorry for the automatic translation of this message.
I'll look into that, thanks for letting me know!
@@PeterZelinka Hi Peter! The same happens to me!! I can't understand what you explain, I just imagine it.
Can you activate subtitles so we can translate it?
Thanks a lot from Argentina!
But Peter, I'd swear in one of your videos you said that now you wished that you had gone to threaded filters because they are easier to clean?
Yep, I still recommend the threaded filters for most people. All around, they are easier to work with than the unmounted filters I purchased.
The separate RGB almost completely overlap the L so probably don't need to run separate L subs.
Can you add english subtitle pls? because my English listening is pretty bad
One word - Antlia.
So it doesn't make sense...for the OSC dedicated astro cams...it's like they went overboard and just let all light in...if these are dedicated for astro..why not just make them with a filter that allows the extra wiggle room in the UV and IR from the start?
I am on the fence about mono cameras not because of the price but the time investment of each image. I live in Seattle which is clouded over most of the year and any clear nights are a blessing. So that means that I want to use the time as much as possible to gather data. If I use mono camera, I will probably not finish my projects for months..
On the other hand, the light pollution here is really bad. So, mono with good filters does sound like a good idea to get good data in less time. Or do you think a color camera with a good broadband filter (like L extreme) can achieve a good result?
Any suggestions on how to decide? Is focusing an issue between filters? Using ASIair, did you ever feel that the focus was off after moving to next filter?
Thanks in advance for any pointers..
Yeah, I had similar problems in Ohio. We only had a few clear nights each month. Now that I've used a mono camera the past few months I do have some insight.
If you plan on doing narrowband, you do need at least an hour per filter for the best results. (Ideally more). Therefore, if you have a lot of clouds, or partly cloudy nights, this could make things much more difficult. However, the light pollution wouldn't be a problem, nor would the moon. This opens up more shooting opportunities.
There are some filters that are "tri-band", which means they capture H-Alpha, Sulphur, and Oxygen all at once. This would pair nicely with a color camera, and allow you to complete your session in 1/3 the time. Those filters are really expensive though...
The focus can change between filters, just barely (but enough to ruin the focus). To compound this problem, the stars are incredibly small and dim with narrowband filters. Therefore, you will have a hard time focusing. I normally aim at Jupiter to start the night, and verify all telescope/lens is sharp with the narrowband filters. Then I find my object and start shooting.
Astrodon 3nm 2” filters .. buy once cry once 😬