How to replace the ball joints on a Ford E 250 without a press
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2014
- In this video I will show you how to replace the ball joints on a 2003 Ford E 250(most Fords F and E are the same)without a press .The pressing is all by hand.
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I can’t tell ya how many ball joints I’ve seen put in with a hammer, and everyone acts like you’re gonna hurt something if you don’t use a press. Old school, though more labor intensive, is probably faster than using a press.
Hats off to you sir.
Thanks for the knowledge earlier in the video you pushed back the pads with a flat head when you put the caliper back on those just pop back out ??
Well had a similar noise coming from my 2010 E250 thinking it was brakes i checked em and they were ok mayb 50% worn so those will be done next after more digging i noticed play in one of my upper ball joints so what did i do search it on youtube your video came up hit the local parts store and two hrs or so later shes good as new even did a oil change afterwards nothing better than laying on concrete when its in the 20’s 🤣🤣 this video was very helpful while i am pretty handy w tools its more w the power-sports world but this wasn’t too bad and luckily i have a nice press hardest part was getting the spindle out my fork is for smaller ball joints a couple of chisels on each side got it to pop out! Thanks you!
GREAT VIDEO JIM, YOU BROUGHT ME BACK TO MY NEW YORK DAYS TURNING WRENCHES!! HA!! IMAGINE IF WE HAD YOU TUBE BACK IN THE DAY WHAT WE COULD HAVE DONE AND TAUGHT!! HA!!
Thanks 👍
Deep respect for this work without pressing!
Great video. Just picked up a 2005 Excursion 6.0 diesel 2wd that needs front end work I am about to tackle and this is the closest video I have found. Almost positive it is the same set up. Thanks for the knowledge.
By far one of the best videos I've watched, I am in school learning about these specific components and you really helped me out thank you so much
Very helpful video Jim. Confidence inspiring to say the least. Thanks for passing on all your knowledge and expertise. 2 thumbs up.
Ron Towers I'm happy to help.Thank you for taking the time to give me your feed back.
Thanks Jim, my mech said he would give me a break and only charge me $350 per side to do this job. I'm mostly a oil change person. But with your video I believe I can actually do the ball joints also. Will let you know when I'm done. I watched several other videos and you are the BEST ON THIS.
rodney todd LOL Thank you.
350 per side is not worth the aggravation 800 per side is
@@anthonysaponaro6318
Less schwab's wants $400.00 a SIDE,,for this job
@@WHEREVER-I-ROAM I’m guessing Tomy has more spare cash than I do to give away when I can do it myself. All things considered, I’d gladly pocket 800 bucks for an afternoon’s work.
I think this video is an excellent video to have loaded up on the cell phone to use as a reference while your doing the work.
You really covered everything well EXCEPT FOR the occasional hammer on tool SLIP and the OUCH+@%#! $$ followed by the throbbing for the next 3 hours..
You can tell you have been there before,, especially with the way you hit VERY Solid, Flat and Deliberate Perfect STRIKES with that shop hammer.. THIS AIN'T YOUR FIRST RODEO !!
Outstanding video.
I appreciate you sharing with us the benefit of your years of experience and expertise. .
This is the third video I watched on E- series ball joints; you are the only one to throw in a reminder to grease the new units after installation. My 1998 E450 (motorhome chassis) has rotten rubber boots, more sand than grease in there so time to change them while at home, not on the road even though only 53,000 miles.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
I loved this video. Fantastic complete process. Thank you!
Very well done for the do-it-yourself mechanics. Clear and to the point. Much appreciated sir.
I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching.
Excellent video! Now I have to get started on a 1999 Ford F-350 2-wheel drive.
+Charles Almond Good luck.Let me know if you need any advice and how the job comes out.
Hi Jim,
Your video was great super helpful, I've never done ball joints entirely by myself before....... I am pretty mechanical (but not a car/truck mechanic) I was a little intimidated at first but after watching your video, I said "I can do that" and then No problem, complete upper & lower on my 2010 E350 in 1.25 hrs!! Not bad for a carpenter/automatic door/garage door service - install tech!
Thanks a Bunch. Lou
Hi Lou.Wow 1.25 hr very impressive.I'm happy that I was able to help you.Great job.
I'm doing my own for now on out.... thanks for the video... U R DA TRUTH
Shop wanted 80 bucks per lower ball joint pressed in with knuckle removed.. they trippin hard. Good to see theres a back yard way of doing this.. subscribed easily
Just did this job yesterday. However, it took me about 10x as long. Great video, wish I'd watched this first!
I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching
I am not getting into a hammer swinging contest with this man!!!
Thank you sir, your teachings has saved me a lot of money.
You are most welcome
Jim,
You “are” the man!!! I needed to do ball joints on my 99 F250 (2wd) and this video showed me everything I needed. @ 20 years old w/ 168,000 miles I just knew I might be getting in over my head. NOT SO. Thanks to you.
A little something I discovered that I feel you should know for next time you are doing one is... instead of whaling on the end of the axle to knock out the lower ball joint give the threads a few-crisp whacks w/ a 4 lb hammer. I tried this just because I knew it was going to be a bitch and thought I would try to help it loosen up a bit. Three moderate hits and the whole thing fell off and almost crushed my toe.
Like in the other comment thanks to you the whole truck was done in just over 4 hours.
THANK YOU very much.
Thank you for watching.I'm happy to help.
Thank you for showing all. The easy and not easy. Thats the best video. You always have problems and you have shown them. Thank you, best vidoeo
You are very welcome
Awesomely great repair video thanks for your help today
Best video ever. Thank you Jim.
+brokenarrowez A little bit of a pain in the rear end but it can be done.
Thanks for the video. I found it very informative. You did a great job laying it out. I'm off to do mine......
+B Campbell Thank you for watching and your feedback.Let me know how you do.
so wish would saw this earlier definitely would helped me out
Very good video Jim,you explain very well.Thanks a lot, I would let you work on my truck anytime.I like that you verify tice at the end, very serious.
+Philippe Guillot Thank you for your feedback and for watching. Jim
Thanks for your video. It was exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you for watching.
Great job your a pro and a good teacher.
Great job of showing & explaining to a novice like myself.
Thanks for the great teaching video. Your efforts are appreciated!
lownslowav8r Thank you for your feedback and for watching.
Awesome work jim,,thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Jim, Love the videos. Could you please give me your opinion on how to proceed with a situation. My 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the “stopped” position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested
Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.
My question is which would you suggest? Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up? Your input appreciated!
Thanks alot I have a 1996 FORD F - 250 POWERSTROKE HD TURBO DIESEL 2 - Wd Automatic
Nice job well explained. Thanks!!
+Shawn Dexter I'm happy to help.Let me know how you do
Thanks for a very helpful video sr
Buen vídeo amigo saludos desde houston Texas gracias
Great resource. Thanks Jim!
Glad it was helpful!
I think you have done this before. lol. Very well done, and I thank you. Now to do my 99 ford van.
Nice procedure, thru and thru. Thanks!
Silas Marner Thanks for giving me your feed back.
This video was very helpful replacing ball pints on my 2001 excursion. Only difference was I had to remove the ABS sensor because there was no plug to disconnect
Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
gracias; que buen video para realizar el remplazo de las rotulas; sin una herramienta sofisticada; bendiciones.
very good instruction
Great job Jim
Thanks for watching. I'm happy to help.
Thank you Jim!
Much appreciated indeed.
I have a pretty violent shake in my front end when I brake hard and I was told I needed lower Ball Joints, never taking anyone's word for anything, I lifted the Van myself and lifted and had play just like you have shown.
I am pretty handy at a lot of things but didn't think I could tackle this type of job as it looked a little confusing of what to actually remove and in which order but your video was very well done and fully explained as you were going through the process now I believe I can change the ball joints myself, My van is an 07 E250 S/D would there be any difference, I wouldn't suspect much if any, while I have the rotors and calipers off I figure I might as well just change them too, the Van engine was replaced @ 90K miles but the van has 120K on the body so it is probably due and probably wouldn't make much sense to do it later while I have it all apart then.
Thank you again, you've provided a valuable service to your fellow man .
Anthony Saponaro Thanks for watching and your feedback.If there is any play in the ball joints as in my video they will need to be replaced but the shake may also be coming from the brakes and the rotors.If you need any further advice let me know.Jim
Yea, you're right, I made the mistake last year of just replacing pads over rotors that probably should have been scrapped, it did take a while for the shake to show it's self
@@jimthecarguy
I had that problem
LESS SCHWAB Turned my rotors on the vehicle
Shake went away
Badass old geezer !
What size torx bolts and sockets needed would be helpful please
Very good video
I got negative wheels pointing in at top old 2004 e 350 prison van I put upper ball joint bushing in now after watching your video upper and lower ball joints next thanks center point arkansas
+Dean Murray Thanks for watching
most Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Oreilly Auto (and many others) will have the ball joint press kit for rent. Great video. Now to replace my uppers and lowers on my '03 E150....
Thank you for pointing that out.I should have mentioned it.
great video. thank you for this. but have only one question, what socket size did you use to put in and take out the ball joints.
Match socket diameter to ball joint diameter. Use zn impzct socket
Neatly explained.
So what size socket to drive that lower joint in????
Jim your a beast
Old School. That's how you did it!
And what about the CAMBER adjustment?
thank you sr.i think im moving to new jersey so you can teach me mechanic skills
Welcome to Jersey.Lol
Would it be the same for a E350?
It's a 4x4 Quicley van? Hugger orange color E250?
Hi, great video I have a Ford Van E250 2001 it is 8 lugs and I wanted to convert it to 5 lugs can you tell me if this is possible the parts of the E 150 5 lugs fit my Vam?
You shouldn't. The 250 chassis is heavier duty hence the 8 lugs.
Should you add grease to the taper bearing in the rotor hub?
Obviously!
Jim, looking to do my front end soon on my '99 E250. Do you suggest "not" using the store brand / cheaper parts and go with Moog / Delco Prof. or similar ? It is my work truck.
steveg5576 I only use Moog at my shop.There is soooo much work to remove and replace them that I only want to do it one time.If you need any other advice let me know.Jim
jimthecarguy ok thanks for the input
Finally a good use for a Chinese 1/2 drive extension 👍
Jim, great video. I did my front brakes, rotor today 1999 E250. I didn't realize how bad the ball joints were. This is going to help me out a lot.
When you say "press" is that the C clamp type kit I can borrow at the parts store ? Or a hydraulic press - say at the machine shop.
Quick question ? You tightened the spindle (wheel bearing) nut pretty tight. I do similar but back it off 1/6 of a turn. Any problem with that ?
Thanks
Steve in NC
Hi steveg5576,Thanks for taking the time to give me your feed back.The C type tool will be a little difficult to brake the joint loose. A press at a machine shop would work much better but if you watch my video I will show you how to get the joints out with just a hammer and a long driver.It requires being able to swing the hammer and hit the driver with enough force to brake the joint loose.If you need any other advice let me know .Jim
jimthecarguy Yes I watched it. Neat trick - I'll give it a try. Thanks again
Brooklyn or North New York?
How to replace the ball joints on a Ford E 250 without a press
Very good rks
Thank you for stopping by the shop
My man you have a big balls to do that job with a hammer
Thank you
What about using a torch to heat up the area around the pressed in ball joint before hitting with the hammer?
Yes, only heat the knuckle NOT the ball joint and it will go in easier
I would not. The ball joints sometimes have a plastic/nylon insert and you risk melting it if your temp is too high.
good video
Why wasn't the bearings cleaned and repacked with grease?
You're an ace! Fantastic video you made and thanks for sharing! I think I'll take my knuckles to the shop and pay someone to put them on the press. Isn't there some type of bushing at the upper ball joint that is used for alignment? That doesn't fall out or get replaced? Thanks again!
Thank you for watching and your input
Why do u remove the rotor there’s no need??
HI JIM.. GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE A 94 E150 CLUB VAN , NEED TO REPLACE BALL JOINTS. NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. IS MY VAN THE SAME AS YOUR VAN IN THE VIDEO. . I HAVE THE TOOLS TO DO THE JOB. I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT I HAVE THE RIGHT INFO . THANKS
VICTOR CLARE It should be close.If you need any help let me know.
The only thing I didn't catch was flushing the grease cups. It looked like they were still above the shoulder. Here in Florida this would end up washing out the grease with all our rain..
+Steve 1961P. Thank you for watching and your input.
Don't forget to regrease the bearings after they came out, if needed.
+Amy Sidious Yes very important.Thank you for your input.
Thanx for the tip ;)
I hope it helped you.
Thanks !
You did in 30 minutes what it would take me 3 days to do. As for me, I can't swing a hammer in the same place twice in a row. If I tried the hammer routine I'd wind up in the Emergency Room with busted up knuckles and fingers. I'd pay the $ 200 to $ 250 for a Harbor Freight 20 ton hydraulic press and save my hands. Hopefully, 20 tons would be enough. They do have a 50 ton press but that's $ 1,000.
Swinging the hammer straight is very important part of this job. Thanks for watching.
I was told it would cost $922 at a shop . Were do you get the parts from ?
www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pc-Front-Suspension-Kit-for-Ford-E-250-E-350-E-450-Upper-Lower-Ball-Joints/292089930794?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Good as a Ford part ? No Junk .
i like to leave the rotor on, yes it makes the knuckle alot heavier but id rather deal with that than having to repack bearings
+UBBERTANKER You could do that .Like you said it makes heaver.
Did one yesterday with a press. Had a lot more trouble than he did.
can you do how to remove engine without a lift....
Hahaha
I went on ROCK AUTO to find ball joints. and nothing comes out. do they have a different name? Even Autozone online didnt have anything.
What year and model is yours.
I watched the whole video wow.
Great video wish u was here with me to help me out
Is this the guy from OZ?
I would have repacked the wheel bearings as well ...jus sayin .excellent vid.
Please, please help!!! We were in an accident, the car hit our right front tire and above our right front tire. At the time, the body shop said the "alignment was fine" and replaced the tire. This was in October. This month, there is a "squelching" sound when I turn the steering wheel and a "squelching" sound (like a dog toy), when we go over bumps or hit potholes. I was told by Ford that it was the suspension. A small garage we went to, told me that "it was probably the tie rods" and he said he would put a small hole in the "boot" and inserted a straw and filled it with lubricant. I told him I did not want this, but he did it anyway. It did not make the noise go away, but now I am concerned about what damage this may do---after the fact, I did some more reading and I found out this is not good at all. He also told me my tie rod was bad, and showed me how the front wheel would not move. I found out that this is a good thing for the wheel not to have a lot of play.
Can you respond about all of this, please????
I believe the lower ball joint requires the nut to be torqued.
.
You might want to clean the rotors of any stray grease before the re-install - since you handled the wheel bearing
just before removal.
I did my ford bronco this way, without a press.. what a nightmare. Buy a cheap press from harbor freight and make your life a lot easier.
Yes it is quite a work out.
Only problem I saw. You didn’t use a torque wrench. At all
put ball joints in freezer for a few hours and then no pounding them back in
Jeeeeesus... at 1:15 the jack is not holding by much
Thanks for watching. It may look like that but that is the main bolt through the I beam and spring.
Needs a bigger hammer...
Done it that way since the sixties...👍
next time use a brake rotor to use as leverage, not a vise.