How To Remove A Stuck Chuck From Myford ML7 & Changing The Button Oilers
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2016
- How to unscrew a stuck chuck from the lathe using a Baby Boa Constrictor strap wrench plus changing the old flush button oilers for new concave type
I love the electrics solution in the background at 7:22 - typical engineer!
Just got an ML7 and its a super little Lathe........and I love it when you can hear it raining outside too....Good to be in your shed dry and warm doing little projects....Thanks Steve for all the great tips and tricks .
Great that you have an ML7....They are excellent lathes.........Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
Another great video very helpful,please continue to give us Myford owners more tips and valuable advise.
Cheers
Allen
Thank you for an excellent presentation. Just bought M7 last night and trying to find good hints related to this particular model. I found your videos very informative. Thank you.
Sorry for the late reply....Sometimes I miss the comments....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Excellent technique. Much appreciate you sharing it and demonstrating the procedure
Hi Steve
Used this method today to remove the chuck on my ML7 and it worked perfectly.Thanks for the tip.
Always good advise. Just starting out did a full refurb and just ordered my fenner belt and a baby boa
Love the oiler removal method - something i have been planning for ages on my old Little John.! Had to sell my Myford when I moved - do miss it -- on that I made a full blown clutch set-up.
Hi Chris, Thanks. That must have been something to make, the clutch!.... Are the Myford lathes very popular in the USA? Are they easy to get hold of? What is a Little John Lathe?
Hi Steve - in a video long ago I showed the drawings of the clutch design - wish I had decent pics of it.
I think there are some Myfords over here but not sure how many - might be just a very few.
The "Little John" - the only lathe I brought with me - was made by Raglan Engineering, Nottingham I think. The machine is approx circa 1952 I think. If you go to my videos index site you'll see a link to the Raglan lathe manual etc - it was scanned when in very bad shape but I think quite a few folks have found it useful.
www.oldmansshop.com/
The lathe is 5 1/2" swing and features in many of my videos. My channel page has a pic of part of the Myford.
beautiful lathe you have, and thanks for the botton oilers tip. cheers
Hi Julio, Thanks. The lathe is really nice. My brother did most of the restoration on this lathe and then gave it to me as a present!.... Regards Steve
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Yes that chuck surely was stuck! I though for a second there you were going to pull the boa right into the works of the lathe, just kidding. But seriously the information on the oilers is excellent, I need to change out mine as well. Thank you.
Hi Glenn, its funny because when I checked the video, I thought the same thing! I didn't expect it to be that tight! It goes like that sometimes after using larger drills. I always put a spot of oil on the threads as well.
Hi Steve, very interesting. Now on the hardened steel shaft and end gear that's held with a grub allen screw, it appears to me that the very end of this hardened shaft is not actually hardened, so that it should be possible to drill and tap a new threaded receiver for this grub screw. Also, when you assembled the collar onto the threaded shaft, there should be a small copper disc to protect the thread from the grub screw end. Best wishes, Paul Brann
This is a good helpful video. It would be easier to remove the oiler with a pair of pincers.
brilliant videos. helping me enormously. lots more please. I have 2 super 7's and a dreadnaught but learning (don't ask how I ended up with 2 super 7's)
Hi David, Thanks, My brother has the Super 7. They are lovely lathes. Its such a shame Myford do not make them anymore.
I thought the original Myford company does not exist anymore !?
Great tips. I do something similar on my Boxford but use a larger strap clamp around the diameter of the chuck. Not sure if using hex gripped in the jaws does any wear/damage, but I thought it might do. Sometimes the chucks become very tight, even though the spindle thread was oiled prior to fitting.
Hi Thanks, I have found out that by using a ring of thin card between the chuck and the spindle location face. The chuck comes undone much easier. I use that thin card that is most common on tool packaging etc. It works really well and doesn't cause any run-out. The Boxford lathes look great machines Regards Steve
Long hex bar down the spindle bore, impact gun on hex bar end, the chuck then hangs on the hex bar that is running down the spindle bore. Remove as required.
I would have [laced some oil in the holes before placing the new tips, thank for the info on your video very helpful
hmmm mine is very stuck. Tried this method (with a belt style oil filter remover) and wacking an L shaped bar held in the chuck, and the method where you turn the pully and let the chuck hit a piece of wood on the bed. So far all i have done is twist the bar. I might have to resort to taking the chuck off the backplate and giving the spindle nose some gentle heat. Its a 1949 ML7 and at this point i would believe that the backplate has never been off
I use a better method in a later video. It sounds like you need to use the heat method like you say to get that one off.
@@SteveJordan Yeah i ended up just heating the backplate with a heat gun for a few minutes, then locked the spindle off the capscrew like in your other video and it came right off (with a little grunt and a 300mm adjustable wrench on the jaw). Interestingly no corrosion, just really stuck
steve nice info.
Thanks
Ingenious
Another great video Steve!
I don't think those oilers are standard. The ones on mine look like they screw in as they have a little hex end on them. Mine are definitely stock.
Hi John, It sounds like yours is a newer version than mine. I do have another spare swing arm that I bought and these have the ones you describe. My ML7 was made around 1946 and I think these flush ones were standard then, as the new push fit concave ones I bought were sold as for the ML7. Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
Nice trick on removing oilers.
I have a ML7 also. Do you use the "standard" oil syringe
with the new oilers ? ( where do you get them ? )
Thanks,
Eddy.
Hi Eddy. Thanks. I have been using a cheap pump oil can and a vintage brass grease gun which works well with the iso 32 oil. I'm in the process of converting one for the concave button oilers or making my own syringe, at the moment. I hope to do a video on this soon, if its successful. Regards Steve
Hi Steve:
As you know, there are many lathes with a threaded chuck spindle, I've seen some users gripping one of the chuck jaws with an adjustable spanner and hitting same with a rubber or dead blow hammer or mallet. How do you see such approach, pros and cons?
Regards
George
+Jorge Scordamaglia Hi George I sometimes use these methods. Also I do not use card washer anymore. I found using thick oil on the thread stops it the chuck from sticking on mandrel. Regards Steve
This is the second Myford that I have seen with that handle on the back of the spindle. Is this a Myford accessory or something every Myford owner makes? I have seen it used for threading on another channel. Keep on keeping on.
Hi, You can buy the handles for the later versions of the Myford lathes such as the Super 7, but people do make their own. I made this one from bicycle pedal parts and some mild steel. They are quite easy to make. You can see how this one goes together in one of my other videos.....one I did before I did a commentary though! Regards Steve
Sigh...Steve, try this method that has been used in industry since before time......exend the chuck jaws to just protude beyond the OD of the chuck, then plece a 25mm or so round aluminium bar on the bed and under one of the jaws....then use the vee belt to swing the chuck jaw down against the ally bar....... more light blows than a single big one .....the shocks will loosen any scrwed chuck and the bar being aluminium will not damage any part of the lathe especially the back gears or bed.
I have a 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe and this is the method that works once the chuck has been on a while and tightened from turning pressure.
انا سامر من سوريا بلده تلكلخ برافو محترف
Does Myford have an "official" way of removing a stuck chuck or do they just pretend it never happens?
Hi, there is an "official" way that the ML7 handbook says will remove most stubborn chucks using a block of wood, but I've read it several times and can't see how it would work when they go really tight. I think that is why they added the spindle locking pin assembly on the later models and the Super 7 lathes. Regards Steve
I can not undo mine - can I heat it up?
You could warm it up a bit on the smaller diameter of the back plate. I showed a better method to get the Chuck off in a later video using a plastic stop under the head of the Allen bolt on the back gear. It is the best method of jamming the spindle. I will have to look through my videos to see which one it was.
@@SteveJordan I have seen the video.
My Super 7 is from a Danish Navy submarine. I have been told.
I do not think the chuck has ever been off.
Thanks for many good Tips and tricks.
good video but it will not work for chucks that have been stuck on a lathe for 30 years...I did a vid on how to get a real stuck chuck off a spindle without damage...
Hi Lawrence you are right. I have actually heard people saying that they have had them so badly seized that the only way to get them off was to remove the chuck from the back plate and carefully turn the back plate down until the diameter was thin enough to remove by hand, with grips or something! Very drastic but possibly the last solution!
Sry but thats not a stuch chuck. I can't get mine 80mm one unscrewed even with a sledge hammer.