Before I used a cylinder hone on that cylinder I would try using a solution of lye and water to eat the aluminum transfer away. if the cylinder is aluminum and not a cast iron sleeve it is Nikasil coated for hardness and that coating is easily broken through with much honing.
You got links for the parts, adhesive, and hone? Same exact issue on a br550, and possibly a br600 (havent ripped that one down yet) will be rebuilding both. Got a package deal of 1x br550 2x br600 for $175. One of the br600s worked but had a cracked back support. Would hate to part the other two out. Rather buy the back support for the one, rebuild the two, and run one sell two.
These engine have a few known problems. 1 the bottom ends start to leak due to the poor quality red sealant they use on the bottom end covers, hence why yours is a mess. 2 When they seize due to no oil in gas or when the bottom end starts to badly leak the piston /wrist pin to crank is the first thing to start to tighten up, hence the hard to pull over. 3 after that they generally are not worth fixing unless you are doing it for your self on an otherwise very decent shap machine. 4 likely yours did not seize due to straight gas, it was likely a leaky bottom end causing not enough oil to get to the top end. I have 2 of those in my shop right now because my customers worker ran two of them in the same day without sufficient oil in the gas. Both of them are now junk. Edit: look how blue the small end of your conrod is, that is pretty bad but if you want a working blower for cheaper then replacing the unit it will likely still function ok after. If you want to clean the Alum off of the cylinder you use muriatic acid to etch it off, it works like a charm. Don't breath in the vapors or get the vapors in your eyes by keeping your face right over it when in use.
Yeah, I realized it afterwards, I didn’t know it was behind cam gear!😳😂 keep up the good work!!
Before I used a cylinder hone on that cylinder I would try using a solution of lye and water to eat the aluminum transfer away. if the cylinder is aluminum and not a cast iron sleeve it is Nikasil coated for hardness and that coating is easily broken through with much honing.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 HOW MUCH COST TO REBUILT? AND WHERE BUY THE PARTS ? 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I bought all the parts on eBay, the cost was probably about $40-$60.
Thank you you saved me!
I have a br700, the left rocker keeps popping off. What would cause it ? I keep adjusting valves but runs for 5 mins and then pops off again.
Your camshaft is probably melted down too much causing the valve lash to change dramatically each time.
You got links for the parts, adhesive, and hone? Same exact issue on a br550, and possibly a br600 (havent ripped that one down yet) will be rebuilding both. Got a package deal of 1x br550 2x br600 for $175. One of the br600s worked but had a cracked back support. Would hate to part the other two out. Rather buy the back support for the one, rebuild the two, and run one sell two.
I’ll look for links and send them.
@@lawnboyR i highly appreciate it, thank you in advance!
Did you find the links
Checking on the parts links. Did you get them?
good video keep them going
Thank you very much! I have another one of these BR-600 rebuilds that I filmed as well that I still have to edit.
No decompression valve?
It has Auto decompression release on the cam gear.
It has Auto decompression release on the cam gear.
They are called cam followers.
Thanks for letting me!
FYI…
You did a great job with the Dirko! Exactly like I do it.
These engine have a few known problems.
1 the bottom ends start to leak due to the poor quality red sealant they use on the bottom end covers, hence why yours is a mess.
2 When they seize due to no oil in gas or when the bottom end starts to badly leak the piston /wrist pin to crank is the first thing to start to tighten up, hence the hard to pull over.
3 after that they generally are not worth fixing unless you are doing it for your self on an otherwise very decent shap machine.
4 likely yours did not seize due to straight gas, it was likely a leaky bottom end causing not enough oil to get to the top end.
I have 2 of those in my shop right now because my customers worker ran two of them in the same day without sufficient oil in the gas. Both of them are now junk.
Edit: look how blue the small end of your conrod is, that is pretty bad but if you want a working blower for cheaper then replacing the unit it will likely still function ok after.
If you want to clean the Alum off of the cylinder you use muriatic acid to etch it off, it works like a charm. Don't breath in the vapors or get the vapors in your eyes by keeping your face right over it when in use.
Thanks for the advice!