I love to see your new videos man👍 i did the oil pump on my truck because the pumps odd shaped seal had a crack and leaked violently and it was super easy to replace ive had harder times changing oil on some cars
You are doing such a thorough/prevention job. I loved my 81 I had, my ONLY complaint was it was a 4speed no overdrive & guzzled fuel on the turnpike. I'm not sure if I had a 20R or 22R. Locking hubs, it was a tank. Can't wait to see yours done!👍
Bad tuning??? Not tuned for altitude? Bad carb?? Retarded timing?? Bet your timing chain has stretched retarding the cam and ignition timing/fix...adjustable cam gear from LCE...... Ive got a LCE stage 2 stroker, 160HP and get 18 to 19 freeway at sea level. 31" tires, 4.56 gears, bed cap, winch, wrap around bumpers, heavier then OEM. Best I ever got and it was once with the OEM 103HP 22R was 21MPG freeway and that was with the tailgate removed, stock tires, no load....
I used that same brand of engine mount for my 240 wagon a few years ago. No joke they both failed within 3 weeks. Had my engine ratchet strapped down until I ordered meyle brand ones. 4 years later the meyle ones are just fine
Dang that explains why the engine shakes so much in the first start video ua-cam.com/video/r4EKrah9hD4/v-deo.html I figured I'd replace the original mounts while I had the engine out, but the original ones still seemed fine. Should have just painted them and left them in.
@@6thGearGarage did you inspect them? Any update if the mounts were at fault? When I replaced mine with that brand, it was like I hadn’t changed them at all and the car drove awful. Then one day I put the car on the lift and saw the engine was just resting on the subframe on one side. The parts guys at that dealer joked my engine had just too much torque for the mounts…… the engine was an na redblock with over 350k miles lol. I’d be lucky if it made the stock 140 lb-ft lol. The ratchet straps went from the intake manifold to one shock tower, then an engine hoist point to the other shock tower. That kept it from dancing all over the place until I got to put in the Meyle brand one. I couldn’t believe the mounts were at fault so I worried my engine was vibrating so much it caused the mount to fail, so my contingency plan was a custom “solid” engine mount with hockey pucks and a big bolt going through. I ended up not having to resort to that thankfully as the meyle ones work great. Volvo designed those engine mounts to shear in the instance of a frontal collision to prevent the engine from coming through the firewall and smashing me, and instead going under the car. A “solid” mount would eliminate that bit of engineering.
Interesting. Got one of these myself but going to be putting in my 74 Celica. The timing chains on these usually want to upgrade the guides, see other vids on YT if you haven't.
I would definitely recommend packing grease into the oil pump to help with priming it just for some insurance and smooth operation. And doing work like that your definitely not going to run the oil for very long so its fine for short term use
Yes I did use grease but I forgot to hit record on that part or accidentally deleted the video. When I start it for the first time I'll show to pull the plugs and crank the engine first to build pressure.
LCE has them...less then $50....also a v6 rad fits 85's to 95's....have to do slight mod to under hood to miss the cap...I run a LCE stage 2 stroker, 160HP, .50 lift cam and need the V6 rad and dual stage thermostat....Never goes over 190 degrees...
also stock fan shroud fits V6 rad....I pop riveted a strip of rubber across the open 1 1/4 inch at the bottom of rad..works like a flap valve, lets air through while moving, shuts while standing with just the fan sucking
Hello At 3:50 I did the same job on a Celica 20R took care of the leak but at the time of starting I heard a pretty nasty rattle I believe the gears weren’t properly aligned before I put them back in, any tips ?
Usually a rattle at start is the chain due to lack of tension. Tensioner is activated by oil pressure, so it was probably due to lack of oil pressure. Did the rattle stop after a second?
@ i shut it off right away I figured I left some gears wrong and without wanting to damage anything I shut it off I started it up again 2 twice but same rattle should it run for a minute or two to build the pressure ?
@@6thGearGarageoof yeah that’s it i just did that o ring and put it back after I cleaned the surface of the ring no oil or grease was added I didn’t change the crank seal either it seemed to look fine
The OEM fan does a fine job at cooling, but an electric one will clean up the engine bay some and take a little resistance off of the motor. Once I sorted out a couple minor issues (missed connecting a fuel line, needed to loop a wire from the automatic trans plug) it fired right up. I did need to adjust the carb and ended up cleaning it out to get it to idle just right. Now it runs great!
The engine has to be warm when adjusting valves on these trucks. It was sounding very healthy before I removed it, just leaking a lot of oil through the front seal.
@@6thGearGarage I had more luck adjusting them cold to .007 and .011 waaaaay better. In 5 years I did it maybe 5 times and each time they still sounded too slack. Now that I followed Jim advice @22reperfomance it really made a diff
@@6thGearGarage youll actually be surprised and finally left with a feeling a self accomplishment (well towards the valve leash since it seems you got everything else in control ah!)
Always love seeing that dual time chain! No rubber nonsense
Isnt it great we can still get so many parts for these old engines! LOVED watching this very much, thanks for sharing with us, its a great video!
Talk about timing. Good way to reward myself after a night study session.
Edit: I'm surprised you didn't paint the valve cover.😄
I will at some point... right now I just can't wait to get this truck back together and running :)
@@6thGearGarage I know that feeling.
I love to see your new videos man👍 i did the oil pump on my truck because the pumps odd shaped seal had a crack and leaked violently and it was super easy to replace ive had harder times changing oil on some cars
You are doing such a thorough/prevention job. I loved my 81 I had, my ONLY complaint was it was a 4speed no overdrive & guzzled fuel on the turnpike. I'm not sure if I had a 20R or 22R. Locking hubs, it was a tank. Can't wait to see yours done!👍
Bad tuning??? Not tuned for altitude? Bad carb?? Retarded timing?? Bet your timing chain has stretched retarding the cam and ignition timing/fix...adjustable cam gear from LCE...... Ive got a LCE stage 2 stroker, 160HP and get 18 to 19 freeway at sea level. 31" tires, 4.56 gears, bed cap, winch, wrap around bumpers, heavier then OEM. Best I ever got and it was once with the OEM 103HP 22R was 21MPG freeway and that was with the tailgate removed, stock tires, no load....
Thanks, I’m glad to be getting close to getting it running/driving.
I used that same brand of engine mount for my 240 wagon a few years ago. No joke they both failed within 3 weeks. Had my engine ratchet strapped down until I ordered meyle brand ones. 4 years later the meyle ones are just fine
Dang that explains why the engine shakes so much in the first start video ua-cam.com/video/r4EKrah9hD4/v-deo.html I figured I'd replace the original mounts while I had the engine out, but the original ones still seemed fine. Should have just painted them and left them in.
@@6thGearGarage did you inspect them? Any update if the mounts were at fault? When I replaced mine with that brand, it was like I hadn’t changed them at all and the car drove awful. Then one day I put the car on the lift and saw the engine was just resting on the subframe on one side. The parts guys at that dealer joked my engine had just too much torque for the mounts…… the engine was an na redblock with over 350k miles lol. I’d be lucky if it made the stock 140 lb-ft lol. The ratchet straps went from the intake manifold to one shock tower, then an engine hoist point to the other shock tower. That kept it from dancing all over the place until I got to put in the Meyle brand one. I couldn’t believe the mounts were at fault so I worried my engine was vibrating so much it caused the mount to fail, so my contingency plan was a custom “solid” engine mount with hockey pucks and a big bolt going through. I ended up not having to resort to that thankfully as the meyle ones work great. Volvo designed those engine mounts to shear in the instance of a frontal collision to prevent the engine from coming through the firewall and smashing me, and instead going under the car. A “solid” mount would eliminate that bit of engineering.
@@mstrshkbrnnn1999 I cleaned the carb and it's idling a lot better now and shaking a lot less. I'm still going to keep an eye on the mounts though.
Interesting. Got one of these myself but going to be putting in my 74 Celica. The timing chains on these usually want to upgrade the guides, see other vids on YT if you haven't.
Looking good man!
Thanks! Earlier this year I remember thinking "I'll probably be driving this thing by fall!" lol You know how it goes...
thank you so much for this
You're welcome!
I would definitely recommend packing grease into the oil pump to help with priming it just for some insurance and smooth operation. And doing work like that your definitely not going to run the oil for very long so its fine for short term use
Yes I did use grease but I forgot to hit record on that part or accidentally deleted the video. When I start it for the first time I'll show to pull the plugs and crank the engine first to build pressure.
keep your work
Buen video, sin embargo no me gustó la manera de colocar el retenedor 12:43 a golpes no me parece bien.
I'm sure there is a special service tool for the job but I do not have it.
You should consider a dual stage thermostat, Toyota sell one that is $50-60, but you can buy a similar for under $10 from most part stores.
LCE has them...less then $50....also a v6 rad fits 85's to 95's....have to do slight mod to under hood to miss the cap...I run a LCE stage 2 stroker, 160HP, .50 lift cam and need the V6 rad and dual stage thermostat....Never goes over 190 degrees...
also stock fan shroud fits V6 rad....I pop riveted a strip of rubber across the open 1 1/4 inch at the bottom of rad..works like a flap valve, lets air through while moving, shuts while standing with just the fan sucking
I did not know about that, thanks!
Search for part #41492, Motorad makes them. I have ordered them from Napa, Autozone, and Orilleys.
Hello
At 3:50 I did the same job on a Celica 20R took care of the leak but at the time of starting I heard a pretty nasty rattle I believe the gears weren’t properly aligned before I put them back in, any tips ?
Usually a rattle at start is the chain due to lack of tension. Tensioner is activated by oil pressure, so it was probably due to lack of oil pressure. Did the rattle stop after a second?
@ i shut it off right away I figured I left some gears wrong and without wanting to damage anything I shut it off I started it up again 2 twice but same rattle should it run for a minute or two to build the pressure ?
@@phillipferrer4668 Did you pack/prime the oil pump or was it installed dry?
@@6thGearGarageoof yeah that’s it i just did that o ring and put it back after I cleaned the surface of the ring no oil or grease was added I didn’t change the crank seal either it seemed to look fine
@ I’d guess that is the culprit. If the pump is dry it won’t prime. Add some Vaseline in the gears, should do the trick.
Do you have the part numbers for all the parts you changed?
Yes I added them to the description, thanks!
Nice starting my rebuild as well.what do you think of an electric fan instead of the factory set up and how did yours end up running?
The OEM fan does a fine job at cooling, but an electric one will clean up the engine bay some and take a little resistance off of the motor. Once I sorted out a couple minor issues (missed connecting a fuel line, needed to loop a wire from the automatic trans plug) it fired right up. I did need to adjust the carb and ended up cleaning it out to get it to idle just right. Now it runs great!
What type of grease is the red grease on the rear main seal?
It was just some rear bearing grease that I had. Triflow was the brand.
Another good way to remove seals is screw a sheet metal screw in and grab it with locking pliers or a slide hammer. Happy Thanksgiving!
That’s a great tip.. thanks!!
Would probably have been a good time to adjust valves since the cover is off and all
The engine has to be warm when adjusting valves on these trucks. It was sounding very healthy before I removed it, just leaking a lot of oil through the front seal.
@@6thGearGarage I had more luck adjusting them cold to .007 and .011 waaaaay better. In 5 years I did it maybe 5 times and each time they still sounded too slack. Now that I followed Jim advice @22reperfomance it really made a diff
@@billythomas4527 Well I will have to give that a try! I adjusted the 22r on my 85 warm, per the manual, and it is still noisy.
@@6thGearGarage youll actually be surprised and finally left with a feeling a self accomplishment (well towards the valve leash since it seems you got everything else in control ah!)
@@6thGearGarage I second the advice of 22R Performance on adjusting the valves on a cold engine to their specs vs. warm as per the Toyota shop manual.