Magic Mill Dehydrator Repair (Thermal Fuse Replacement)
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- If you have no resistance across the wall plugs pos/neg terminals, your thermal fuse is blown, this video is for you. If you have 1.2K Ohm resistance, then something else is wrong.
i learned to keep my machine well away from anything in the back, i had a jar where the fuse lives right behind my machine, thinking it was no big deal. The radiant heat it from it back to the machine was enough to blow the fuse.
Specialty items to perform this repair:
1. Digital Multimeter (continuity specifically)
2. Thermal Fuse: a.co/d/cXXO1XR
3. Security Bit: TA30 (Trianglular) a.co/d/7FDhx2I
4. Crimp Tool: a.co/d/d183SdM
5. Wire Crimps: a.co/d/dd7J22f - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
UPDATE: The back is NOT captive, just remove the back 12 screws and you do NOT need to take the stainless body off. Thanks to @OutFishing13 for pointing it out.
Thanks for making this video. You probably save my Magic Mill from the dumpster. I had no idea about a thermal fuse and where to find and replace it. I did a fuse replacement and she\s working again!
can't find the fuse, could you give me the specifications of this please?
There is an amazon link in the description; the fuse in the unit is a 113C fuse, i replaced it with a 115C fuse, giving it a small improved margin of error.
What might be the problem if the fan won’t turn? The screen works, heating coil heats up just fine. The fan made all kinds of noise before it finally quit. Any suggestions?
Great video. Great help. You saved me some bucks friend 👍
update: bought the parts. happy to say my unit is now working again. thanks again for steering me in the right direction.
Nice work!
Thank you very much for making this video, showing how to swap the fuse and sharing why it got blown in the first place.
very informative video. thanks you for making it.
So would the new fuse be crimped on both ends to the wires?
crimped, or otherwise securely fastened. i just recrimped mine with pliers.
Is it the fuse if the machine runs but doesnt get hot?
this is a different problem, you'd have to use a multimeter to track down the cause. it sounds like somewhere along the path to heater circuit is broken.
Do you have to take the whole thing apart? Could you just take the back off to replace the fuse?
unfortunately you do need to fully remove the stainless shell. the back panel is fully captive
@@kalsprite UPDATE. I got my dehydrator fixed. Thanks for the tutorial. BUT... I started with the back first and found that I only had to undue the back, two small plugs on the control board and had full access to replace the thermal fuse. I did NOT have to disassemble the whole thing like you showed. Just 12 screws, two plugs, the thermal fuse and I was done in 15 minutes. Thanks for sharing and providing a link to the part!
@@OutFishing13Matthew ah great! you're absolutely right - i just looked again at it and the back plate is not captive. i had misremembered.
@@kalsprite I really like this dryer. Just finished another load of dried peaches from my fruit trees. It makes about a gallon of dried fruit at once. Now we are going to start working on grapes and pears, then some apples! I was disappointed with the quality of the thermal fuse those. That should have never happened. My dryer had plenty of ventilation.
Wish i had read comments first 😂. I took whole thing apart to replace the fuse. But a tip from what i experienced. If you do take it all apart and struggle to get the cover back on on the side with the magnets, take the magnets out. Its a tab on both sides, push in both and remove. Then pop them back on when cover is back on.
Thanks for vid though! Was very helpful!
Why do manufacturers make units that must be taken completely apart to repair. A million screws. I never even put all the screws back in when I do repairs. It is impossible.
Where can I find parts for this searched all suppliers none have just the part they all say buy a new one
what are you looking for? i'd start with the manufacturer
Thanks. This was helpful.
glad to have helped. relatively easy fix once you know what to test for
Well done!
𝔭𝔯𝔬𝔪𝔬𝔰𝔪 🌸
Thanks for pointing many of us in the right direction.
I would like to offer another tip to make the process even faster, cheaper and easier to replace the fuse again and again.
After the back is removed from the shell and the two plugs are disconnected from the board:
1. Test the fuse from both ends for continuity then clip away the fuse if bad, while leaving a piece of the stem from the fuse on both opposing wire.
2. Take a thin foil strip (aluminum foil from the kitchen cabinet is fine) and wrap one end of the NEW fuse to one of the expose stem tightly then press them tightly with a pair of pliers. Wrap the new connection with either a piece of duct tape or electrical tape and repeat on the other side. (Be sure the insulating sleeve is already on one of the wires so you can just slide it back over.
FTR: You will have to clamp the fuse to the wire/stem and NOT solder it because the heat will probably blow the new fuse.
The fuse can be purchased on eBay or Amazon without the wire attachment for about $7 as of this timestamp for three 113C fuse which is what this unit uses.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPFGCSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1