Make Sheeting in SO MUCH EASIER: Sailboat Problem Solved
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- Опубліковано 5 січ 2025
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SO OBVIOUS WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT IT.
THIS MAKES THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE
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I just replaced my Liros Magic sheet 12:1 on my Tornado with 8 mm Liros Dynasoft (similar to Swiftcord). I spliced 5 mm Dyneema on to the end of the Dynasoft. When fully sheeted in (blocks almost touching, I have a 10-15 cm rope between the top block and the main sail) I have about 1-1.5 m of Dyneema coming out of the cleat. It takes more effort to hold but is a lot easier to sheet in and to sheet out in light wind. I too just switched to having my crew do the main sheet (or I do the mainsheet when I crew and let someone helm).
Nice job! I think that your boat is one of the best organised in the fleet.
Would love to see some pictures of your tack line arrangement.
Always good to look at issues or difficulties with a complete assessment of all parts for a proper evaluation. Thanks Joe!
You bet
Hello!
Nacra 15 sailor here,
something that helps a lot is tapering the mainsheet to the dyneema core, it reduce the friction in the blocks and also allows easier splicing for the end part.
I try to have the maximum amount of dyneema in the block, with the cover just in the ratchet and cleat (at max sheetingg and most backward mast rake).
Another thing you can see in competitive cat sailing is having the 2 blocks the closest together, I tryed it and even if I don't understand why, it reduce friction, for that purpose you can use a softshackle or a dyneema loop on the clew of the sail to lower the top block.
Hope this helps and have a nice day!
cheers from reunion island.
That's great advice, thanks. I will do that for sure seeing that the rope is designed for it.
Try New England Regatta Braid for your mainsheet. It's a very soft 12 strand single braid polyester that's easy on the hand, runs extremely well and resists kinks plus relatively cheap.
Thanks for the tip - I'll see if I can get hold of some/
Bonjour, l autre solution est de tourner le bloc supérieur de 90° , ainsi les différents allers et retours ne se croisent pas ! Voir fiches HC16 et HC18 . C.d.
Yes, that is a good idea - I've always made my blocks this way - I will try the alternative.
I've never seen anyone use the side of the hole as a becket. I've always run a loop of line through the hole and tied off to that. Seems like it would try to bend the block sideways but I guess the other lines hold it steady.
On a mainsheet setup without a single pivoting cat block under the lower triple block, the cleat/blocks can't fully rotate the cleat towards you and I find I'm always dragging the line across the fairlead at a sharp angle. I can see yours does that in the video too. On a knobby braid like swift cord it probably causes a lot of friction across that corner vs a double braid. A lot of people use salsa braid here but it's kind of expensive. I now recommend normal people Alpha Ropes cruiser 24 Kmix 9mm. The kmix cover has codura in it and has some of the best wet grip of all the lines I have. It's always pretty cheap. It's not as flexible as a single braid but It's pretty good. Only in drifter air will it not spool out as smooth as an 8mm single braid.
Thanks for the rope tips. The side loaded end - although it looks like it would pull - works nicely. Stays straight
Use the largest diameter mainsheet rope you can. Easier to grasp. For the blocks, the more pullies involved the greater the mechanical advantage you gain on the sail in terms of effort, but you lose on the other end in terms of how much sheet you have to haul in for the distance gained in moving the sail.
For sure - personally, i prefer the least purchase so that there's less rope to fall in the water
“…… time for a change.” 🎉🎉🎉
🤩
Marlowe rocks
Lovely bit of rope!