It is the quickest way for me also. Just know that the gage may or may not be accurate. My 30 degrees is a little bit off. I just use the cutter blade and set it and forget it! Hope you got yours on sale!
I agree man. I have that same sharpener and have used it a hundred times probably and it has always done a real good job. I like to keep a couple of extra blades for my different chain saws and I'll go ahead and sharpen them at the same time and then I have backups, then when one goes dull, I can just swap it out for the sharp one. It saves a little time that way, but the way that sharpener is set up, it does make pretty quick work of the process. Good review brother.
Hello Johnny, after sharpening each tooth of the chain, go around again and file the raker ( or depth gauge) to an appropriate height this will help in two ways, one the cutter head will have the appropriate amount of tooth showing, and it will also allow for a smother cut! Use a raker gauge found at any small engine or big box store that sells small engines! The terminology of a chainsaw chain is as follows, tooth( cutter head), raker( depth gauge), drive link( the lower portion of the chain that fits in the bar & sprockets) links( the flat pieces that hold the chain together, rivets( cylinders that bind chain layers to one another and give a pivot point for each link… Gullet, the area that resides directly below the cutting edge that needs to be removed when hand filing Remember to keep the chain sharp and in the wood !
Thanks for all the knowledge! I appreciate it! It goes without saying that I’m not an expert but always willing to learn and better myself! Thanks for the comment and watching!
Good video, I usually hand sharpen my chains but not good at it. Seeing the dull chain and how well it cut after it was sharp sold me on the sharpener. Thank you for the video!!
I just got one today. I hand filed my new chain after it needed sharpening, was not cutting. Sometimes i get them good with a file, Sometimes i dont. This thing has all 4 of my saws cutting like the chains are new. Im pretty happy with it.
dress the grinding wheel with dressing stone and profile guage as needed, makes a real difference and I bought mine for $12.00. my $30.00 hf sharpener has saved me over $4000 over the last 10 years and I have replaced grinding wheel once good vid thanx!
I bought one long ago, it worked some for a while, then it must have degraded at the very least. I chucked it and now I have a stihl manual sharpener that takes a few minutes to use but sharpens in an extremely dandy way.
@@johnnygsdiy1981 the advantage of the Stihl manual sharpener is that it knocks down the lower metal rakes during the sharpening process to exactly the correct depth to go with the sharpened teeth thus keeping the spacing ideal for proper cutting of wood.
The problem with the sharpener is the Moter DOES NOT reverse to sharpen the opposite row of cutters you never sharpen a cutter to the inside of the cutter. The same truth is you draw a knife across a stone do not push it. You will find one row of cutters not wearing down because they are not as sharp as the other row that's doing the cutting.
Touch and back off several times on each tooth if a bunch needs to be taken off lets the tooth cool a bit and lets the motor build speed. The only thing I have encountered that could make a big difference would be is a slide to keep the same angle and curved portion of the wheel in contact with both the front and rear teeth.
You know that flat metal piece that goes behind the tooth that stops the chain ? Well it was to skinny and always slipped so I made a wider one ,now it's perfect.
John, That big nob under the unit keeps the pinch bar from flying everywhere. Might be a good idea to use it. Also, your chain is too loose - allowing each tooth to 'give way' in the cut and causing OMG chain dulling in no time.
Thanks! Honestly, at that point I’d just buy a new chain if the chain is stretched. I don’t have the tools to remove/install chain links… yet! 😂Thanks for watching!
@@johnnygsdiy1981 When the tip or very end of the chainsaw bar touches wood or a object that is where kickback comes from. Cutting with the end of the bar be carefull. Kickback will get the very best of us.
@@edwardbright5894 the upper half of the bar tip is the kickback zone. But you are right, it’s best to never use the tip of the bar to cut if you can help it.
Yes. It adjusts to fit the blade you are using. Take time setting it up so you get an accurate cut and make sure you don’t go to deep into the blade. I don’t use the protractor gauge at the bottom. It seems to be off a little bit. Thanks for the question I hope my answer helped.
I don’t think I have that much problems with the one I bought. I just look at the high end ones costing upwards of $200 and for what I do that’s way too much for me. Thanks for watching and your feedback.
Suggest packing the bushes with two part epoxy / resin to improve performance consistency. That's what I have done to repair a 32 years old Oregon version. Age / use, wear & tear. Or take up slack with an appropriate thickness shim, such as a piece of scrap tape measure blade.
I cringed when I saw that you were using that saw while not wearing any PPE's at all. You were even wearing tennis shoes! That is suicidal! Shame on you for setting such a bad example for neophytes just starting to use chainsaws. As a First Responder fire fighter, I can tell you that chainsaw teeth rip your flesh rather than merely cut it. A rip bleeds much more profusely than a cut, and is much more difficult to stop the blood flow. If you rip one of your major arteries, like the ones in your upper legs where most chainsaw accidents occur, you've got 2 minutes max to stop the bleeding. About the only way to do that is with a C-Tourniquet just above the bleeder. I'll wager you don't even have one. Put your damn saw down until you get a pair of safety glasses, a set of ear muffs, a pair of heavy leather boots, a pair of heavy leather gloves, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, a set of leg chaps containing Kevlar fibers. And have a good C-tourniquet in your pocket, NOT BACK IN YOUR TRUCK OR IN YOUR HOUSE!!! You rip an artery and you won't make it to your truck or house. For God's sakes man, exercise some common sense and put safety in the priority position of everything you do. ALWAYS!!!!
Thanks for your concern for my safety. I am wearing ear plugs (blue string around my neck) also I am wearing clear safety glasses. I do own a pair of chaps now. Not everyone can go out and purchase the full supplies required for cutting right off the bat. Thanks for watching and for volunteering firefighter work!
Each year over 3 million new chainsaws are sold in the United States. The operation of these newer saws combined with the millions of older chainsaws in circulation results in over 28,000 chainsaw-related injures annually. The majority of the injuries involve the hands and lower extremities with less than 10% involving injuries to the head and neck regions. Deaths while operating a chainsaw are extremely rare. The most common hazards associated with chainsaws are injuries caused by kickback, pushback, and pull-in. Kickback is the most common and poses the greatest hazard. Kickback occurs when the rotating chain is stopped suddenly by contact with a more solid area throwing the saw rapidly backward toward the operator. The cause of most injuries can be traced to improper use of the saw or poor judgment on part of the operator. We present two fatal chainsaw deaths; one with an older style saw, and the other with a modern type. In both cases the victims died from fatal injuries received to the neck region from a chainsaw kickback. The first case involved a 49-year-old white male operating an older style chainsaw with limited safety features. The second case involved a 38-year old white male who was operating a newer model chainsaw equipped with a low kickback chain in an unsafe manner.
Just used mine for the first time yesterday. So far, I love this thing. Easy to use and blazing fast.
It is the quickest way for me also. Just know that the gage may or may not be accurate. My 30 degrees is a little bit off. I just use the cutter blade and set it and forget it! Hope you got yours on sale!
Excellent video, especially liked the homemade vice jig you made and the before and after performance! I will buy one! Thanks!
Awesome, I’m still using it with no problems. Thanks for watching!
I agree man. I have that same sharpener and have used it a hundred times probably and it has always done a real good job. I like to keep a couple of extra blades for my different chain saws and I'll go ahead and sharpen them at the same time and then I have backups, then when one goes dull, I can just swap it out for the sharp one. It saves a little time that way, but the way that sharpener is set up, it does make pretty quick work of the process. Good review brother.
Thanks. I also have a few spare blades. It makes life easier. Thanks for watching!
How do you have different size blades? The Chicago electric sharpener has only one blade size.
Hello Johnny, after sharpening each tooth of the chain, go around again and file the raker ( or depth gauge) to an appropriate height this will help in two ways, one the cutter head will have the appropriate amount of tooth showing, and it will also allow for a smother cut! Use a raker gauge found at any small engine or big box store that sells small engines!
The terminology of a chainsaw chain is as follows, tooth( cutter head), raker( depth gauge), drive link( the lower portion of the chain that fits in the bar & sprockets) links( the flat pieces that hold the chain together, rivets( cylinders that bind chain layers to one another and give a pivot point for each link…
Gullet, the area that resides directly below the cutting edge that needs to be removed when hand filing
Remember to keep the chain sharp and in the wood !
Thanks for all the knowledge! I appreciate it! It goes without saying that I’m not an expert but always willing to learn and better myself! Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@johnnygsdiy1981 your welcome, and please pay a visit to my channel as well
Good video, I usually hand sharpen my chains but not good at it. Seeing the dull chain and how well it cut after it was sharp sold me on the sharpener. Thank you for the video!!
Thanks for watching. Be safe and enjoy!
I just got one today. I hand filed my new chain after it needed sharpening, was not cutting. Sometimes i get them good with a file, Sometimes i dont. This thing has all 4 of my saws cutting like the chains are new. Im pretty happy with it.
Awesome! I found that the gage on the one I bought is not accurate, but I just align it with the blade and start to sharpen.
dress the grinding wheel with dressing stone and profile guage as needed, makes a real difference and I bought mine for $12.00. my $30.00 hf sharpener has saved me over $4000 over the last 10 years and I have replaced grinding wheel once good vid thanx!
Great advice. You got yours very cheap! I missed out on that deal. I’ll have to try the dressing stone tip!
I have the same one and I enjoy it . I’m a firewood cutter and if I’m dropping trees I will use a chainsaw chain square grinder
Mine still works good. The gage is off but I just align the teeth and start cutting.
I bought one long ago, it worked some for a while, then it must have degraded at the very least. I chucked it and now I have a stihl manual sharpener that takes a few minutes to use but sharpens in an extremely dandy way.
This one is still working for me. The price has gone up about $10 though. I’m sure the stihl is a good choice.
@@johnnygsdiy1981 the advantage of the Stihl manual sharpener is that it knocks down the lower metal rakes during the sharpening process to exactly the correct depth to go with the sharpened teeth thus keeping the spacing ideal for proper cutting of wood.
The problem with the sharpener is the Moter DOES NOT reverse to sharpen the opposite row of cutters you never sharpen a cutter to the inside of the cutter. The same truth is you draw a knife across a stone do not push it. You will find one row of cutters not wearing down because they are not as sharp as the other row that's doing the cutting.
Great review. I need one for my chains. Thanks for the video
Thanks!
Touch and back off several times on each tooth if a bunch needs to be taken off lets the tooth cool a bit and lets the motor build speed. The only thing I have encountered that could make a big difference would be is a slide to keep the same angle and curved portion of the wheel in contact with both the front and rear teeth.
Thanks for the informative info. I appreciate it. I’ll try that next time.👍🏻👍🏻
You know that flat metal piece that goes behind the tooth that stops the chain ? Well it was to skinny and always slipped so I made a wider one ,now it's perfect.
Great tip. Thanks!
Good review thanks for the info. I have been wanting one for some time. I will check this one out.
Well worth the price. Even if you just need it a few times a year.
Im just setting mine up. Thanks for the help. Is that white oak your cuttin n splitting? Awesome firewood.
I’m glad it helped. I honestly think it’s hickory or gum. Thanks for watching!
John, That big nob under the unit keeps the pinch bar from flying everywhere. Might be a good idea to use it.
Also, your chain is too loose - allowing each tooth to 'give way' in the cut and causing OMG chain dulling in no time.
Thanks
Thanks
No problem
One look at that beard and I thought, "oh ya that dude definitely knows a thing or two about chainsaws"
🤣. Thanks for watching!
Good video and demo…Q: how do you keep your chain from stretching? Do you shorten tour chain?
Thanks! Honestly, at that point I’d just buy a new chain if the chain is stretched. I don’t have the tools to remove/install chain links… yet! 😂Thanks for watching!
Never Cut through 2 logs or sticks of firewood at the same time. Just NOT SMART or Safe to do so. Be safe🤠
Thanks for the advice
@@johnnygsdiy1981 When the tip or very end of the chainsaw bar touches wood or a object that is where kickback comes from. Cutting with the end of the bar be carefull. Kickback will get the very best of us.
@@edwardbright5894 great advice. Thanks again. I’m always willing to learn from the more experienced people.
@@edwardbright5894 the upper half of the bar tip is the kickback zone. But you are right, it’s best to never use the tip of the bar to cut if you can help it.
hey johnny thanks for the video
does the wheel that comes with the sharpener do all size chains, ie for 14" saws, or 18" etc? thanks again
Yes. It adjusts to fit the blade you are using. Take time setting it up so you get an accurate cut and make sure you don’t go to deep into the blade. I don’t use the protractor gauge at the bottom. It seems to be off a little bit. Thanks for the question I hope my answer helped.
Good video!!!!
Thanks 👍
Good job
Thanks 👍🏻
i bought one and dont like how much slop is in the bushings in hinge makes it hard to be consistent.
I don’t think I have that much problems with the one I bought. I just look at the high end ones costing upwards of $200 and for what I do that’s way too much for me. Thanks for watching and your feedback.
Suggest packing the bushes with two part epoxy / resin to improve performance consistency. That's what I have done to repair a 32 years old Oregon version. Age / use, wear & tear. Or take up slack with an appropriate thickness shim, such as a piece of scrap tape measure blade.
@@trwilkinson4623 great idea!
👍
Thanks buddy
It’s a chain…not a blade!!
That’s a great. Thanks for the correction!
34.99 here waiting for a coupon seems like forever
Hopefully the price goes down soon. A holiday is coming up in September… look for the sale then. Good luck!
CHAIN, ITS A CHAIN, not a blade for crying out loud!!
😂 you got me on that.
I cringed when I saw that you were using that saw while not wearing any PPE's at all. You were even wearing tennis shoes! That is suicidal! Shame on you for setting such a bad example for neophytes just starting to use chainsaws. As a First Responder fire fighter, I can tell you that chainsaw teeth rip your flesh rather than merely cut it. A rip bleeds much more profusely than a cut, and is much more difficult to stop the blood flow. If you rip one of your major arteries, like the ones in your upper legs where most chainsaw accidents occur, you've got 2 minutes max to stop the bleeding. About the only way to do that is with a C-Tourniquet just above the bleeder. I'll wager you don't even have one. Put your damn saw down until you get a pair of safety glasses, a set of ear muffs, a pair of heavy leather boots, a pair of heavy leather gloves, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, a set of leg chaps containing Kevlar fibers. And have a good C-tourniquet in your pocket, NOT BACK IN YOUR TRUCK OR IN YOUR HOUSE!!! You rip an artery and you won't make it to your truck or house. For God's sakes man, exercise some common sense and put safety in the priority position of everything you do. ALWAYS!!!!
Thanks for your concern for my safety. I am wearing ear plugs (blue string around my neck) also I am wearing clear safety glasses. I do own a pair of chaps now. Not everyone can go out and purchase the full supplies required for cutting right off the bat. Thanks for watching and for volunteering firefighter work!
Each year over 3 million new chainsaws are sold in the United States. The operation of these newer saws combined with the millions of older chainsaws in circulation results in over 28,000 chainsaw-related injures annually. The majority of the injuries involve the hands and lower extremities with less than 10% involving injuries to the head and neck regions. Deaths while operating a chainsaw are extremely rare. The most common hazards associated with chainsaws are injuries caused by kickback, pushback, and pull-in. Kickback is the most common and poses the greatest hazard. Kickback occurs when the rotating chain is stopped suddenly by contact with a more solid area throwing the saw rapidly backward toward the operator. The cause of most injuries can be traced to improper use of the saw or poor judgment on part of the operator. We present two fatal chainsaw deaths; one with an older style saw, and the other with a modern type. In both cases the victims died from fatal injuries received to the neck region from a chainsaw kickback. The first case involved a 49-year-old white male operating an older style chainsaw with limited safety features. The second case involved a 38-year old white male who was operating a newer model chainsaw equipped with a low kickback chain in an unsafe manner.
Thanks for the stats! No one can be perfectly safe with a chainsaw but we do our best. Thanks for watching.