Maaaaan I'm trying to be a good boy and abide by the break in period. I'm at 200 miles currently and the weather is turning in northern Illinois to where I should be able to ride around and to work so I get can get the miles up. I finally showed my dad my bike yesterday and he's happy for me (he's been a Harley rider his whole life). Thanks for showing the work ur doing on ur bike!
Would you need the servo cables if you ever do install the catalytic back on? What would happen if you just connect the old cat back on but don’t have the cables? I might need to put mine back on to pass inspection but don’t have the servo cables anymore, bike is too loud to pass inspection here in NY 😢
I mean, yeah, if you were to put the CAT and exhaust valve back in, then you would need to hook it all up properly... But if you tune it in the meantime, then the tune will be way too rich when you go for inspection...
Hi and hello, ? Losing cruise control when removing the 02 wires, does that also apply to the 2017 fz10 as well? Please and thank you. I'm just doing my homework before I do my bike.
Thanks for the vid man. I plan on doing this same thing to my bike. I’m currently waiting for the link pipe to arrive. After installing that and the slip on (if I get one) am I going to have to tune the bike, or would that be unnecessary?
Absolutely get it tuned. You will lose power if you don't. Have someone flash the ECU like Chris Moore. He has a map for that setup and it gets rid of all the factory restrictions... It will bring your bike up to about 150hp a the wheel, from around 137 or so stock. Worth every penny.
Truth is you should tune it even if you changed nothing. It will run proper A/F ratio and temp setting cooler etc. BTW they tune the choppyness out of your throttle.
you could have disconnected the cables for exhaust valve from the box under the seat and leave the box connected to the ecu. It is a piece of cake. Did that on my 1st gen MT-10. Can't imagine this is different from the new bike.
What is different is that if you flash the ECU outside of the bike, you basically brick it. The ECU takes the flash, but powering it up on the workbench to flash it, causes all sorts of problems when the ECU doesn't see the motor and all the sensors. It stores all those error codes in the ECU and you can't clear them by any type of reset that I have tried. I have two ODB scanner tools and they can both read the codes but neither of them can clear them. I think only the dealer can, but I have to get it to them and pay for it and likely void my warranty in the process. I really should have just left it alone. Right now my bike is dead in the water and I don't know if or how to fix it.
I have bigger problems right now. I got the flash today, and now my bike won't run. The simple act of disconnecting the ECU from the new can bus system these bikes use, throws like 16 error codes, which the bike cannot run till you clear them. I pulled the battery o reset, no good. I tried two different ODB scanner tools and they could read the codes but could not clear them. Right now my bike is a $16k paperweight and I have no idea how to fix it. My tuner is 100 miles away and closed till Tuesday and the dealer is also closed and not likely to fix it under warranty. No idea how to remedy this and get my new bike running again... 😞
My fault for pulling out the ECU without realizing how this all works. The new bikes, when you power up the ECU on a bench to flash it... it tries to reach out to all of the other systems on the canbus... when it doesn't see them, it throws a shit ton of codes and freaks out. I used a bluetooth OBD reader and the Torque Pro app on my phone, and was able to clear the codes finally...
2 screws to pull the wires instead of cutting them, but tyvm for doing this video I have the exact same set up on my 23
Yeah, but I knew I was throwing them in the trash so the faster way was to just cut them. haha
Leovince makes part numbers 8082 and 8099, which did you get?
It looks like 8082 is for the stock can and 8099 is for their slip-ons.
I don't recall but obviously you would order according to what can you plan to use?
Great projects. So much power this bike has what ecu flash would make differets? Unless just for as enjoining to mod bike.
Beautiful
With the ECU flash and pipe, it should be around 147-149hp at the wheel...
Maaaaan I'm trying to be a good boy and abide by the break in period. I'm at 200 miles currently and the weather is turning in northern Illinois to where I should be able to ride around and to work so I get can get the miles up. I finally showed my dad my bike yesterday and he's happy for me (he's been a Harley rider his whole life). Thanks for showing the work ur doing on ur bike!
If you have 200 miles on it, its broken in already. Just ride it and enjoy it.
I just hit 200 miles rn on my 23 cyan. Need 600 to hurry!!!!
Would you need the servo cables if you ever do install the catalytic back on? What would happen if you just connect the old cat back on but don’t have the cables?
I might need to put mine back on to pass inspection but don’t have the servo cables anymore, bike is too loud to pass inspection here in NY 😢
I mean, yeah, if you were to put the CAT and exhaust valve back in, then you would need to hook it all up properly... But if you tune it in the meantime, then the tune will be way too rich when you go for inspection...
Hi and hello, ? Losing cruise control when removing the 02 wires, does that also apply to the 2017 fz10 as well? Please and thank you. I'm just doing my homework before I do my bike.
No, its just the newer Euro5 models from what I understand.
Thanks for the vid man. I plan on doing this same thing to my bike. I’m currently waiting for the link pipe to arrive. After installing that and the slip on (if I get one) am I going to have to tune the bike, or would that be unnecessary?
Absolutely get it tuned. You will lose power if you don't. Have someone flash the ECU like Chris Moore. He has a map for that setup and it gets rid of all the factory restrictions... It will bring your bike up to about 150hp a the wheel, from around 137 or so stock.
Worth every penny.
@@SquireSCA awesome I appreciate the reply. How would I find this Chris Moore person?
@@Martin-eu4ly www.mooremafia.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw8symBhAqEiwAaTA__IlQ8qN_ckXDU0BzG3aOydrzn2ihOLf--0fIlhkEBshRkA8ffcPwMRoCc2cQAvD_BwE
Truth is you should tune it even if you changed nothing. It will run proper A/F ratio and temp setting cooler etc. BTW they tune the choppyness out of your throttle.
you could have disconnected the cables for exhaust valve from the box under the seat and leave the box connected to the ecu. It is a piece of cake. Did that on my 1st gen MT-10. Can't imagine this is different from the new bike.
What is different is that if you flash the ECU outside of the bike, you basically brick it. The ECU takes the flash, but powering it up on the workbench to flash it, causes all sorts of problems when the ECU doesn't see the motor and all the sensors. It stores all those error codes in the ECU and you can't clear them by any type of reset that I have tried. I have two ODB scanner tools and they can both read the codes but neither of them can clear them. I think only the dealer can, but I have to get it to them and pay for it and likely void my warranty in the process.
I really should have just left it alone. Right now my bike is dead in the water and I don't know if or how to fix it.
Did you weigh the catalytic converter - just curious it’s looks big!
Not yet, but I will!
I need to replace a tank, twatted by falling shelf system. Gonna be interesting
Nice the cat wasn't welded.) Now someone needs to make a dongle which would allow you to remove under seat brick.
What I actually need is for someone to un-brick my ECU. Something went wonky with the flash and my bike is dead at the moment
hope you can make a video on how to remove the ecu :)
I will be making a video putting it back in, tomorrow. All you have to do is watch it backwards. 🙂
just disconnect the lambdas instead of twisting the wires with possibillity of destroying the sensor. Otherwise looks good :)
You also have to do an AIS delete when you do that job. At least that's what 2 wheel Dyno works told me.
I have bigger problems right now. I got the flash today, and now my bike won't run. The simple act of disconnecting the ECU from the new can bus system these bikes use, throws like 16 error codes, which the bike cannot run till you clear them. I pulled the battery o reset, no good. I tried two different ODB scanner tools and they could read the codes but could not clear them.
Right now my bike is a $16k paperweight and I have no idea how to fix it. My tuner is 100 miles away and closed till Tuesday and the dealer is also closed and not likely to fix it under warranty. No idea how to remedy this and get my new bike running again... 😞
@@SquireSCA sorry to hear that. Good luck to you.
@@xdrive8860 Yeah, right now I am boned. Not sure how to even fix it, and until I do, I have a month old, $16k paperweight in my garage...
@@SquireSCAwho’s fault was that?
My fault for pulling out the ECU without realizing how this all works. The new bikes, when you power up the ECU on a bench to flash it... it tries to reach out to all of the other systems on the canbus... when it doesn't see them, it throws a shit ton of codes and freaks out.
I used a bluetooth OBD reader and the Torque Pro app on my phone, and was able to clear the codes finally...
No easter egg? Im disappointed.
Sorry, I was caught up in the process and forgot and left you out. I will make it up to you, sweetie, I promise. :-)
@@SquireSCA damn right 😂
Boring
How exciting would installing a piece of pipe normally be? Maybe a car chase, or some explosions? A sex scene? What did you have in mind?
Might need a tube of muffler gasket paste. 🫡
We shall see. I usually don't use that stuff.