Might have to give that a try on the base of the model beam engine I’m slowly building looks better than stained pine with an epoxy coating that’s for sure ! Thanks for the video Mark ! I never knew this could be done !
Thanks for making the additional video. I got a few things wrong on the previous video (fiberglass and weatherizing of the tote). But I love the effect of the process. Waiting on Amazon for the ammonia to experiment with the chemistry.
Hello Dann. I've seen people make a tent out of plastic but I was thinking about a a framework with plastic sheets so you could take it apart and store it. The tricky part is sealing it well enough to bring inside.
Mark, that red fiberglass is nice stuff. If you have the same stuff I do, it's 1/4" thick, and was made for use as a high voltage insulator. I have other fiberglass I'd gotten, and it was made to Mil specs, and was 1" thick. I gave it to a friend for setup blocks for welding. As I recall, it was 4"x6".
I had two 4'x4' sheets somebody gave me but it is only 1/16" thick. It's handy stuff but it will knock the edge of a carbide blade in 4 feet. I believe it came from Sorenson Industries.
@@WinkysWorkshop I got mine as cutoffs, so I don't know who the vendor is. I use some in the bottom door track on my sliding shop door to help keep rain water out. I've not needed to cut any of it yet, but I'm sure that it's rough on those teeth.
@@shanek6582 Yes I sell them in 2 sizes but right now I'm not sure which size works best. I will know in a week so so if the smaller sectors are worth the effort. You might want to wait and find out. markq6zlmc.fws.store/30_Wimshurst_Sectors_Small/p7671236_20853677.aspx
Ammonia and steel wool in a vinegar solution both react with the tannins in the oak. The latter turns the oak black and is often referred to as ebonizing the wood. The oil add a very nice tone to the fumed oak. I did not appreciate how deep the fuming process went in the wood. Good to know. Thanks. Dave.
I've never smelled it. I pour in in the can and put it in the chamber and then walk away for a few minutes. The only time I smell is is when I remove the wood but even then I'm very careful.
I used to drink Bustelo until I discovered Medaglia d'Oro, available from Amazon (in cases as cheap as Bustelo) and it's all that I drink now because I like it better.
It makes espresso close enough to the coffee shop for me at a much cheaper cost. I have three double espressos in the morning and I'm ready to do what has to be done.
I read that the process was discovered when the wood in stables was darkened by the ammonia from horse urine, and somebody figured out how to make use of it.
Thanks for the additional information. Do you think it makes a difference in the surface area of the container you put the Ammonia in. So in place of the coffee can a 9x9 glass cake pan. I wonder if that would work faster.
It might but I suspect the chamber is saturated with ammonia fumes in 10 or 15 minutes. The boiling point of Ammonia is -28 degrees so it leaves the water its dissolved in very quickly.
No it's the same hardness. It's only for the visual effect, like stain. Oak is not sold after darkening (although that is an interesting idea!) but furniture made with darkened oak may sell for more. It's actually sort of a forgotten process. In the 1920's through maybe the 1940's fuming was popular in Arts and Craft style homes. I heard they would install white oak trim throughout the home and then fill the entire home with Ammonia fumes. Then after the old was dark brown they would go back and put wax on the wood. Also a guy names Gustav Stickley was an American furniture maker who used the process and made it popular. His furniture was like what you would see in an old library.
Might have to give that a try on the base of the model beam engine I’m slowly building looks better than stained pine with an epoxy coating that’s for sure !
Thanks for the video Mark ! I never knew this could be done !
That would be stronger and very cool looking.
Thanks for making the additional video. I got a few things wrong on the previous video (fiberglass and weatherizing of the tote). But I love the effect of the process. Waiting on Amazon for the ammonia to experiment with the chemistry.
Very cool. You will be amazed! Also be careful, that ammonia is dangerous.
Very good process. Thinking about how to set this up being a little bigger. As you know I enjoy your videos..
Hello Dann. I've seen people make a tent out of plastic but I was thinking about a a framework with plastic sheets so you could take it apart and store it. The tricky part is sealing it well enough to bring inside.
I've never seen that done, I learned something, thanks winky.
Any time!
Thanks for sharing! I have never heard of that ! Very useful!
I love this process.
Mark, that red fiberglass is nice stuff. If you have the same stuff I do, it's 1/4" thick, and was made for use as a high voltage insulator. I have other fiberglass I'd gotten, and it was made to Mil specs, and was 1" thick. I gave it to a friend for setup blocks for welding. As I recall, it was 4"x6".
I had two 4'x4' sheets somebody gave me but it is only 1/16" thick. It's handy stuff but it will knock the edge of a carbide blade in 4 feet. I believe it came from Sorenson Industries.
@@WinkysWorkshop I got mine as cutoffs, so I don't know who the vendor is. I use some in the bottom door track on my sliding shop door to help keep rain water out. I've not needed to cut any of it yet, but I'm sure that it's rough on those teeth.
I’m kind of fascinated by that spark machine, I went to your other channel and watched all those videos you had.
Cool, thanks! They all work the same but with different drives and design features. They are a lot of fun to build... kind of an artistic adventure.
Also I will be doing a video on building one of these machines very soon.
@@WinkysWorkshop looking forward to it, would you consider selling some of those copper teardrop shaped stickers you made the stamping machine for?
@@shanek6582 Yes I sell them in 2 sizes but right now I'm not sure which size works best. I will know in a week so so if the smaller sectors are worth the effort. You might want to wait and find out. markq6zlmc.fws.store/30_Wimshurst_Sectors_Small/p7671236_20853677.aspx
@@shanek6582 Send an email at Winkysworkshop@gmx.com and I'll let you know which sectors work better.
Ammonia and steel wool in a vinegar solution both react with the tannins in the oak. The latter turns the oak black and is often referred to as ebonizing the wood.
The oil add a very nice tone to the fumed oak.
I did not appreciate how deep the fuming process went in the wood. Good to know. Thanks.
Dave.
Thanks for sharing. I remember reading about steel wool and vinegar but have never tied it.
That 28% stuff must be wicked to deal with. I've used janitorial ammonia, somewhere between 5% and 10%, and it nearly knocks me over every time.
I've never smelled it. I pour in in the can and put it in the chamber and then walk away for a few minutes. The only time I smell is is when I remove the wood but even then I'm very careful.
I used to drink Bustelo until I discovered Medaglia d'Oro, available from Amazon (in cases as cheap as Bustelo) and it's all that I drink now because I like it better.
Haha... Yeah, I think I have had that before. I can't remember if I liked it.
It makes espresso close enough to the coffee shop for me at a much cheaper cost. I have three double espressos in the morning and I'm ready to do what has to be done.
I read that the process was discovered when the wood in stables was darkened by the ammonia from horse urine, and somebody figured out how to make use of it.
I heard the same. Interesting
Would the moisture content of the workpiece block the ammonia intake/penetration?
I'm not sure really but ammonia is aqueous so I suspect it would make no difference.
@@WinkysWorkshop good point, water is the carrier.
Mr Winky you might like to build an Harmonograph
True. I may have to try that sometime.
Thanks for the additional information. Do you think it makes a difference in the surface area of the container you put the Ammonia in. So in place of the coffee can a 9x9 glass cake pan. I wonder if that would work faster.
It might but I suspect the chamber is saturated with ammonia fumes in 10 or 15 minutes. The boiling point of Ammonia is -28 degrees so it leaves the water its dissolved in very quickly.
But what if I want it to be white? 😁😉👍
Don't fume! Ha
Hello Mark,
Other than darkening it does it make the oak harder? does dark oak cost more money? Sorry I know nothing about wood.
Take care.
Paul,,
No it's the same hardness. It's only for the visual effect, like stain. Oak is not sold after darkening (although that is an interesting idea!) but furniture made with darkened oak may sell for more. It's actually sort of a forgotten process. In the 1920's through maybe the 1940's fuming was popular in Arts and Craft style homes. I heard they would install white oak trim throughout the home and then fill the entire home with Ammonia fumes. Then after the old was dark brown they would go back and put wax on the wood. Also a guy names Gustav Stickley was an American furniture maker who used the process and made it popular. His furniture was like what you would see in an old library.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks Mark, that's really interesting...
You know working on a machine like that you're going to need a white lab coat and a foreign accent... :)
Haha... funny. I may have to work on that!