Replacing head stock bearings on Royal Enfield Himalayan
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- In this video I am replacing the head stock bearings on my Himalayan 411. It's quite a long video but I wanted to give you as much detail as possible for those who might want to do the job themselves. I think these days the dealerships and other bike mechanics are charging in the region of £70 - £100+ an hour. We all like to save ourselves some money whenever we can.
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Every task that you share with us Ian is money in the bank for do it your selfer's like me. This job is $400 plus in my neck of the woods.
Thank you
Your welcome
Brilliant Ian. A masterclass of a demonstration video!
Thanks Simon
Brilliant video.
One of your best yet.
I've done umpteen headstock bearing replacements,usually flying by the seat of my pants.
You've just given a perfect step by step guide.
Always handy to know exactly which parts need removing,which can be left alone.
Great stuff.
Thanks. It's good to know I am appreciated
When I bought my Scram, I noticed that the steering head bearing was very stiff and I loosened it a little so that there was no play. I have the impression that the Indians are very strict with the tightening torques and tighten everything a little more so that it doesn't vibrate. Some VW models also have tapered roller bearings as wheel bearings, with a thick washer between the nut and the bearing. According to the workshop manual, the nut should only be tightened so much that the washer can just about be moved with a screwdriver. It says: A bearing dies when it is tightened too much.
You did a great job!
Thanks
I have just replaced the steering bearings on my bike, and I put the bottom yoke in the freezer overnight.
The next morning I took it out, warmed up the bearing a little bit over a camping stove, and the bearing dropped right in to place, no hammering needed at all.
I read that tip on a forum somewhere, (maybe thumpertalk), and it worked a treat!
Nicely done Sir, a pleasure to watch.
Looking forward to your riding assessment.
You and me both!
Ik had het zelfden probleem met de ballhooft lagers toen als uit elkaar was het ik gelijk onder en boven 2 vetnipels er in gemaakt het zelfden met de achter bruglagers werk prima
Thank you Ian👍
You're welcome
Good video Ian . Recommended watching for those who've never done that job before .
I'm surprised that the original bearings were SKF , maybe they are some kind of "knock off" made unofficially in India .
I nearly bought some wheel bearings that were in a box marked Dunlop . I was a bit suspicious and found out that they are Chinese and have nothing to do with Dunlop . Needless to say I told the bearing supplier to firmly insert them into a part of his anatomy where the sun doesn't shine .
Copper coat/grease is a good tip , I've been plastering things with it for decades . Land Rover maintenance taught me that it saves so much future trouble .
Royal Enfields remind me of the old Series Land Rovers , there's always something that needs attention .
Keep at it mate .
Yes Royal Enfields are like the old Land Rovers
Excellent.Some great tips,thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
YOU are a LEGEND sir. VERY WELL done.
THANK YOU.
REALLY ENJOYED watching you work. (!?)
''Only 8000 miles''?! I have a Scram. Needless to say everything would be identical?
Thanks again.
Pleased you enjoyed the video.
Very Much so!
Spot on
When you fit fat bars and risers
Do you need to change the cables please
You are right with regards to prices
Here in the UK, greed has set in since covid
And I'm afraid that motorcycling has become an expensive hobby
Another few pounds saved by watching this video
Cheers
@@guyonacub4335 did not have to replace any cables, a little rerouting but no problem.
Hey Ian. Tomorrow its my free saturday and I will be replacing my scram 411 stock bearings with NTN Japan bearings and a custom dust seal cover fron Art OF motorcycle India. They seem to do a good job protecting the bearings in the long term, but I will let you know as soon as I swap and test ride. I did purchase from India but it a bearing made in Japan, so I guess its better than stock.
Cheers for the good work and videos, its really helful since im a young amateur mechanic, you really inspire me to fiddle with my bike.
Any of the Japanese bearings are good quality if genuine. Have a look on the actual bearings and check they are actually made in Japan. I often use SKF bearings and purchased them to fit to my bike. I was surprised when I removed the old ones that they were SKF but on closer inspection stamped 'made in India'. They were not the same quality as the new ones i had purchased that were made in Sweden.
@@iantoy7778 They are made in Japan alright, i checked with AoM before ordering and when i received it was vefiried. Also 2 things:
1. whats the headlamp you are using, if you want a great alternative i can send you the Puig LED 7inch light that is the best option for the Himmy/scram
2. Wheel bearings are bad too, i purchased front and rear from wemoto uk the Slinky Glide UK ones and you could immediatelly understand the difference(im using bartubeless system from italy and takasago rims).
3. Again from wemoto you can find a TRK piston for the rear brake, much higher quality and TRK disc plates , not that expensive, I purchased those but havent installed. I can send you links and thoughts after installing.
@@brotherpaul1911 The headlight I fitted is a 7 inch LED light bought from Ali Express.
Would be interested in hearing your thoughts on the piston when you do it.
Cheers Ian
@@iantoy7778 And I forgot to tell you I use the discs for the brake from Hitchcock (EBC) for 7000 km so far , but I also purchased the galfer discs from Italy. Both great quality, galfer ones are wave shaped discs and seem a bit more premium. I will let you know.
Good job... 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Exelent instructional video. Why didn't you show how you got the bottom bearing off ? It did look like it was a bit of a bugger, by the state of it. Putting the cones in would have been a great addition for me. Other than that i really appreciate the time and trouble you take over these videos thanks.
It was a struggle as it always is in getting the bottom bearing of. You can only get a chisel be hind it and thrash it out. It's not pretty to watch lol. To put the new bearings cone's in just gently tap them in ,that's why you over tighten the bearings to pull them up flush then back the bearing off.
@iantoy7778
Thanks for the reply. I thought that would be the answer, especially for the bottom bearing. That will help a lot if I think I'm going at it a bit mental. Keep em coming. There's nothing else like it on the tube.
Appreciate the longer/indepth videos Ian, even though I don't own a himalayan myself, nice to get some tips from 👌🏼
Also your channel logo.. your intro, I can't help but think of some nice yellow marigolds 😄
Thanks. No comment on the marigolds 😂
Hi Ian another great video specially as I'm just about to replace mine. Mine went in for service a couple of weeks ago i pointed out the bearings were notchy i put it on the centre stand and lifted the front then moved the bars left to right they actually came to a stop in the middle and i can feel this when riding specially slow manoeuvres. Anyway as usual the dealership said they were fine so past it back as was!! so again all they want to do is basic servicing. I haven't ordered the bearings yet i want the best i can find this video was very useful i was unsure how to seat the bottom bearing and remove the cones so this is a great help i will find some tubing before i start. How did you remove the bottom bearing did you cut through the top ring using strong snips? This bike keeps coming up with little issues which is irratating but expected i guess but i have a few bikes but this is the one i keep going too its riding so well at the moment and i really can't explain it but it makes me feel happy. Just need some constant sun the weather still shit here in the uk🤔 Well done great vid👍
I didn't record it because the only way you can get the bearing off is with a hammer and punch. As the bearings are a very, very tight fit it would look quite a messy operation on the video. I started with a big chisel and quite a heavy hammer. I got the chisel between the base of the bearing and where it fully seats down on the bottom of the stem. I hammered the chisel in as a wedge to get the bearing to move up the shaft slightly. Then I used a heavy duty punch behind it and kept at it until it moved. But as you can see from the video it literally smashed the bearing to pieces.
Under the bearing there is actually a metal washer with a rubber seal on it. It might be worth you ordering a new one of those before you start the job. You will damage it as you are getting the bearing off. I did tap mine out straight again and reuse it but that's your choice.
@@iantoy7778 Thanks for your reply and help👍
That is for sharing. I am about to strip mine down to do the 6000 service. Have new chain as well.
My mate and I are riding to Bulgaria from Ireland so this is a job we will do. I have noted the bearing ref.
What bearing do you recommend for the wheels? Will get a set as spares to bring
I normally use SKF or Koyo as those are easily available for me locally. Any good quality ones would be fine. Sorry I don't know the bearing number as mine haven't needed doing yet.
I normally use SKF or Koyo as they are readily available at my local supplier. Any good quality bearing would be fine. Sorry I don't know the part number as I haven't done mine yet.
@@iantoy7778 we have a good bearing shop in Galway. Will get a complete set and seals. Handy to have