10 Minutes ago, ordered my first Jointer and Planer. Both Grizzly, and All with Carbide indexable spiral & Helical blades. Thank you again! I did my dining room table with a good flattening bit (but not nearly this good) and am still amazed how well it came out sometimes.
I’m done with surface bits and routers for flattening slabs. A hand held grinder attached similar type sleds. Use a turbo plane type bit . It’s at least twice as fast and does a great job.
You can run 3 phase if you set it up right off of a phase circuit. Many videos on how to do it. I run a 3 phase knee mill at home using a 240v welding outlet. Better to run 3 phase than single.
2.2kw is about 3hp.. 750-ish watts per hp I've just put a watermellon-sized 2.2kw single phase induction motor into my John Heisz-style grey-top table saw I built last year (upgraded from the 1.875kw motor from an old Ryobi miter saw). Having 4+kw in a CNC sounds like overkill dude.. but I wouldn't say no.. lol I recently bought a carbide-tipped (non-replaceable) 2" slab flattening bit for my enormous old Maktia hand held 2.5hp (1850w) router for munching the tops of bits of my local Aussie Hardwoods, and it works well at 2mm DOC, 50% overlap, but I can't adjust the speed of my router, (it's either off, or 22,000rpm!) so I'm REALLY hoping the bit never lets go while I'm using it, or it'll probably go straight through me without even slowing down! I doubt even a 10mm plexi shield would offer much resistance either.. 😬
Interesting. I do not think I have ever taken .125 cut when flattening. I am certainly more conservative and take between 10-20 thou only. I use DLC inserts for flattening. Not sure if they are appropriate for wood but they give good results.
advertises on their website at $299 for just the bit but when added it to cart it suddenly jjumped to $469. I hate to think what that would convert to in our Aussie dollar.
Does your CNC have provisions for allowing manually pushing and pulling the the mill / cutter over the x and y axis? If not, could it be done with some tweaking?
While I've never personally done it myself I don't see a reason why I wouldn't try it. Obviously it's a bigger bit and therefore can have a bigger catch so I would have to be very mindful of not getting too aggressive. I would also be very mindful of having good control of the router and sled as to not let it get away from me.
Jay. Have been subscribed and viewing your videos for some time now. Great stuff as always. I know this has been a year ago since posting the video. Had a couple of questions if and when you’ve got time… I’ve got a 3.2 kw liquid cooled spindle CNC. To get the hp and maximum amount of torque it runs at 24,000rpm. Not really a speed that would work on some of the larger tooling to get the power and torque… without raising “injury” possibilities… You’ve probably upgraded by now and I’m wondering if you went with a liquid or air cooled higher hp spindle. And… rpm’s and torque values of your new spindle. Happy with it…? Cost to upgrade. If you’re comfortable with giving out that info. Best to you and yours. Wiredodger60
I always flatten wood moving with the direction of the grain and make sure my speed is fast enough to avoid any burning. I am still experimenting with conventional vs downhill cuts but they both seem to work on the cnc when surfacing. Regardless I begin sanding at 60 or 80 grit with an orbital to remove machining marks before working up in grits
Just out of curiosity do you think CNC will on day replace the planer and jointer for the home gamer? Especially since every year CNC get more affordable, reliable, and easy to use.
I am a novice so.... I am noticing different 'shine' patterns in the surface reflections. I have noticed this whether router sled now the dual direction cnc. Is this a surface depth issue or is it just the light reflection much like a lawn cut pattern?
If you are ever in the market for 3 phase power, this video talks about three ways to get it. The upgrade you are looking at uses the static converter method. ua-cam.com/video/3-9YBY9Xzfs/v-deo.html
Ok…Stop right there! Unless you are an earning professional this Bit make no sense….it’s cost is like $430 USD (converted back to USD from Brit Sterling). I suppose if it flattens a slab for a table you can sell for ten Grand (how/where?), then it might be cost effective…or if you are making lots of slabs at a higher turn-around I guess. But over 400 bucks for a single bit….ouch! I’d want it gold plated for that! Clearly this is a whole different league of machining!
You are not wrong but slab flattening is something that is easily rolled into the cost of a project. Owners of a cnc know that if they buy a bit to do one job it is super easy to sell the next job and make a good profit.
I totally agree for the novice like me it seems crazy, but it is basically a long term buy you get an extra 5 pairs of cutters with four cutting surfaces which are going to cut a lot of slabs. Then a 5 pair pack of replacements for $87. So after the up front cost the cost really is not that high unless you only do like one slab/year or like me one slab every few years.
10 Minutes ago, ordered my first Jointer and Planer. Both Grizzly, and All with Carbide indexable spiral & Helical blades. Thank you again!
I did my dining room table with a good flattening bit (but not nearly this good) and am still amazed how well it came out sometimes.
Man that’s pretty impressive. Your shop is like a dream shop I hope to have one day. I do all my woodwork in my backyard
Fabulous....just plain FABULOUS, Jay! No need to say more. Fabulous!
Clearly you have your spindle well trammed. Interesting video, thanks.
awesome video and very informative, thank you! this bit is too pricey for me at the moment but it seems to be worth every penny!
Always enjoy the way you share your information and explain the background of your thinking.
Thanks for taking the time to produce vids like this Jay!
Nice skeletool! I have the CX and love it.
I’m done with surface bits and routers for flattening slabs. A hand held grinder attached similar type sleds. Use a turbo plane type bit .
It’s at least twice as fast and does a great job.
How do you set up a sled to take an angle grinder? There's no flat surface to reference.
Pretty impressive bit indeed, Jay! Fantastic! 😮
And what a beautiful piece of wood!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Following the grain Vs perpendicular with a router sled is a big advantage for final finishing.
You can run 3 phase if you set it up right off of a phase circuit. Many videos on how to do it. I run a 3 phase knee mill at home using a 240v welding outlet. Better to run 3 phase than single.
2.2kw is about 3hp..
750-ish watts per hp
I've just put a watermellon-sized 2.2kw single phase induction motor into my John Heisz-style grey-top table saw I built last year (upgraded from the 1.875kw motor from an old Ryobi miter saw).
Having 4+kw in a CNC sounds like overkill dude.. but I wouldn't say no.. lol
I recently bought a carbide-tipped (non-replaceable) 2" slab flattening bit for my enormous old Maktia hand held 2.5hp (1850w) router for munching the tops of bits of my local Aussie Hardwoods, and it works well at 2mm DOC, 50% overlap, but I can't adjust the speed of my router, (it's either off, or 22,000rpm!) so I'm REALLY hoping the bit never lets go while I'm using it, or it'll probably go straight through me without even slowing down!
I doubt even a 10mm plexi shield would offer much resistance either.. 😬
Jay could you share how you designed the cut file in Vectric vcarve Pro to get it to cut with the grain of the wood up and back Thanks Jeff peters.
Interesting. I do not think I have ever taken .125 cut when flattening. I am certainly more conservative and take between 10-20 thou only. I use DLC inserts for flattening. Not sure if they are appropriate for wood but they give good results.
I have seen the two cutter and 4 cutter versions- have you tried them both?
advertises on their website at $299 for just the bit but when added it to cart it suddenly jjumped to $469. I hate to think what that would convert to in our Aussie dollar.
Wow! Crazy good video! I subscribed!
Nice cutter
Does your CNC have provisions for allowing manually pushing and pulling the the mill / cutter over the x and y axis? If not, could it be done with some tweaking?
What are those round signs in the background by the computer wall. They look awesome!
Marvel and DC cutouts from Sandy Eggo CNC. He has a free file for them.
Great bit, Jay. Are the inserts at an angle to the workpiece or are they perpendicular?
Jay, have you checked out the world of Variable Frequency Drives?
Hi Jay, would you recommend a bit that size to be used in a router sled setup?
While I've never personally done it myself I don't see a reason why I wouldn't try it. Obviously it's a bigger bit and therefore can have a bigger catch so I would have to be very mindful of not getting too aggressive. I would also be very mindful of having good control of the router and sled as to not let it get away from me.
I use a 2" Binstak (tried more expensive) from Amazon in my 2.5 hp Dewalt router sled setup.
Jay.
Have been subscribed and viewing your videos for some time now. Great stuff as always.
I know this has been a year ago since posting the video.
Had a couple of questions if and when you’ve got time…
I’ve got a 3.2 kw liquid cooled spindle CNC. To get the hp and maximum amount of torque it runs at 24,000rpm. Not really a speed that would work on some of the larger tooling to get the power and torque… without raising “injury” possibilities…
You’ve probably upgraded by now and I’m wondering if you went with a liquid or air cooled higher hp spindle. And… rpm’s and torque values of your new spindle.
Happy with it…? Cost to upgrade. If you’re comfortable with giving out that info.
Best to you and yours.
Wiredodger60
I don’t know CNCs but when you’re designing your cut path, do you prefer to do a climb cut for a better finish and less chance of tear out?
I always flatten wood moving with the direction of the grain and make sure my speed is fast enough to avoid any burning. I am still experimenting with conventional vs downhill cuts but they both seem to work on the cnc when surfacing. Regardless I begin sanding at 60 or 80 grit with an orbital to remove machining marks before working up in grits
@@worldtreedesign good info! The more you know the better, thanks!
Just out of curiosity do you think CNC will on day replace the planer and jointer for the home gamer? Especially since every year CNC get more affordable, reliable, and easy to use.
No. The jointer and planer are way faster the majority of times. CNC definitely has it's place but it's not replacing the fundamentals.
lasts forever- a great scientific assertion. Do you guarantee your review forever.
I am a novice so.... I am noticing different 'shine' patterns in the surface reflections. I have noticed this whether router sled now the dual direction cnc. Is this a surface depth issue or is it just the light reflection much like a lawn cut pattern?
lawn cut pattern.
Is tear out something you worry about with a flattening bit like this? I see you’re taking passes in both directions.
No. I've never had much of a concern with tearout on slab flattening.
If you are ever in the market for 3 phase power, this video talks about three ways to get it. The upgrade you are looking at uses the static converter method. ua-cam.com/video/3-9YBY9Xzfs/v-deo.html
Hmm...your shirt...powerful clothing, it is.
There is no way he didn't sand after using the bit for it to be that smooth. I have the same bit.
Incorrect.
Ok…Stop right there! Unless you are an earning professional this Bit make no sense….it’s cost is like $430 USD (converted back to USD from Brit Sterling). I suppose if it flattens a slab for a table you can sell for ten Grand (how/where?), then it might be cost effective…or if you are making lots of slabs at a higher turn-around I guess. But over 400 bucks for a single bit….ouch! I’d want it gold plated for that! Clearly this is a whole different league of machining!
You are not wrong but slab flattening is something that is easily rolled into the cost of a project. Owners of a cnc know that if they buy a bit to do one job it is super easy to sell the next job and make a good profit.
I totally agree for the novice like me it seems crazy, but it is basically a long term buy you get an extra 5 pairs of cutters with four cutting surfaces which are going to cut a lot of slabs. Then a 5 pair pack of replacements for $87. So after the up front cost the cost really is not that high unless you only do like one slab/year or like me one slab every few years.
10:57 if you actually want to get to seeing wood being cut.