Note to self: As for the electrical connector that comes into the fuel pump, there are four wires. The two bigger ones are the power and ground (return) for the fuel pump, and the two thinner gauge wires are the two wires for the fuel level GAUGE on the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. To test whether you have power coming to the pump is simple enough, but once you've determined that you don't have power coming to the fuel pump, the next step is to figure out whether you have a problem on the power side of the circuit or the ground side of the circuit. This is a lot more straightforward than you would think. All you have to do is put one lead of the testlight into the power side and the other end onto the frame of the vehicle for ground, and if that checks out, then put one lead of the test light onto the ground side of the electrical connector and the other side on battery positive somewhere and then narrow it down from there.
+Taijah Wagner We have a video for certain models showing the thermostat housing replacement here: ua-cam.com/video/C76P2rN_QZk/v-deo.html&feature=emb_logo
Very good Video. Had Fuel Pump put in my 01 Kia. I have to fill it up to start. When it goes down 2/3 gall., It won't start. Gas smell some times. Not sure what the problem is ⁉️
Yes I think I have a faulty fuel pump do it causes rough idle at times and burns a lot of gas and lose of power to you have to press the gas pedal down more for better power and it surges at times as well are those the symptoms.it makes the noise but I think it’s faulty
no fuel pump power when turning the key to ON position but does have power when I do fuel pump relay test with the scanner and does have power when the car is running with GPL ( the car has two tanks ) Peugeot 207 KFU 1.4 16Valves what could be the issue
I have 2004 Nissan Sentra. It's starts fine and drives fine, but after about 30 to 40 minutes of drive, the car will stop and it won't start untill it's allowed to cool down for couple of minutes before it starts but it will eventually die again after few minutes time. I checked for over heating or any leakage but everything is fine. It doesn't heat or leak oil. Injectors too are working fine. Can this be the cause of the fuel pump? Please any idea?
I drove and used my car all day,got home and let the car rest...later I took the car to a restaurant with my gf and when I tried to take off and hit the gas the car didn't want to go anywhere...my car is 25 years old so I knew right away that it was the fuel pump because i had just had my fuel filter changed out
I not a tech. so confused same style fuel pump. the power and ground to the fuel gauge work perfect 12.4V. but the power and ground thick wires to feed the pump itself shows only 0.86V not the 10.2 I need. when I test the fuel gauge negative with the thick positive fuel pump wire when I get the 12V.
I have a 94 gmc Sonoma 3.4 vortec . When I first start it in the a.m. it fires right up but after driving it for a little while and parking then trying to start again it takes a few times of turning the key to get it to start. Any idea? I was thinking something with the fuel pump
I took my car to autoshop and i have a 2015 ford expolorer xlt and the mechanic charge me almost $900 for fuel pump. I couldn't afford it so i should have the money before winter because i don't wont to go bad before that.
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Pepboys is charging me $1900 to replace the fuelpump for my ford explorer 2011. Is the price too high?
Thanks for not beating around the bush and getting to the point and showing me how to do with less ummms and ifs
Note to self: As for the electrical connector that comes into the fuel pump, there are four wires. The two bigger ones are the power and ground (return) for the fuel pump, and the two thinner gauge wires are the two wires for the fuel level GAUGE on the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. To test whether you have power coming to the pump is simple enough, but once you've determined that you don't have power coming to the fuel pump, the next step is to figure out whether you have a problem on the power side of the circuit or the ground side of the circuit. This is a lot more straightforward than you would think. All you have to do is put one lead of the testlight into the power side and the other end onto the frame of the vehicle for ground, and if that checks out, then put one lead of the test light onto the ground side of the electrical connector and the other side on battery positive somewhere and then narrow it down from there.
Simple but very practical. Thanks
+tecnico Thanks for checking us out!
Always providing that great content. I learn so much from your channel. Keep up the great work.
+Nonchalont Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
+Taijah Wagner We have a video for certain models showing the thermostat housing replacement here: ua-cam.com/video/C76P2rN_QZk/v-deo.html&feature=emb_logo
Thanks for your helpful diagnosis.
I tested all this except for the ground. I will do that tomorrow. I also want to know if I'm doing a correct resistance check on the fuel pump itself
Very good Video. Had Fuel Pump put in my 01 Kia. I have to fill it up to start. When it goes down 2/3 gall., It won't start. Gas smell some times. Not sure what the problem is ⁉️
Testing current draw could come in handy
Yes I think I have a faulty fuel pump do it causes rough idle at times and burns a lot of gas and lose of power to you have to press the gas pedal down more for better power and it surges at times as well are those the symptoms.it makes the noise but I think it’s faulty
Very good and very informative video pretty much shows you on how to do it properly
Amazing 👏
You need to explain where you connected the test light to, the first time you tested the power and ground of the fuel pump.
You can also test the ground by reading ohms between the ground pin and your ground you were already connected to.
no fuel pump power when turning the key to ON position
but does have power when I do fuel pump relay test with the scanner
and does have power when the car is running with GPL ( the car has two tanks )
Peugeot 207 KFU 1.4 16Valves
what could be the issue
Nice video
+Teen Education Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
My Chrysler Sebring runs good but if I shut it off to get gas it will not start until it's sits for 30 minutes.can you help me with what problem maybe
Good video.
+Grant W. Whitwam Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Gracias Brother.
+Teno Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have 2004 Nissan Sentra. It's starts fine and drives fine, but after about 30 to 40 minutes of drive, the car will stop and it won't start untill it's allowed to cool down for couple of minutes before it starts but it will eventually die again after few minutes time. I checked for over heating or any leakage but everything is fine. It doesn't heat or leak oil. Injectors too are working fine. Can this be the cause of the fuel pump? Please any idea?
Where can I get those jumper wires that you stick into the harness connecter? Thanks
Awsum video very educational n simpo 2 follow along gr8 job
Mahaloz n Alooooooooha
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If the power to the ground circuit is 0.5V what to do?
I drove and used my car all day,got home and let the car rest...later I took the car to a restaurant with my gf and when I tried to take off and hit the gas the car didn't want to go anywhere...my car is 25 years old so I knew right away that it was the fuel pump because i had just had my fuel filter changed out
1997 Chevy 3500 won’t work has bleed. I put new fuel pump front gas tank. Had 2gas tank won’t work return
I not a tech. so confused same style fuel pump. the power and ground to the fuel gauge work perfect 12.4V. but the power and ground thick wires to feed the pump itself shows only 0.86V not the 10.2 I need. when I test the fuel gauge negative with the thick positive fuel pump wire when I get the 12V.
I have a 94 gmc Sonoma 3.4 vortec . When I first start it in the a.m. it fires right up but after driving it for a little while and parking then trying to start again it takes a few times of turning the key to get it to start. Any idea? I was thinking something with the fuel pump
Seems more like a restriction somewhere or a loss of pressure. Could be a clogged filter
Could be dirty injectors
I took my car to autoshop and i have a 2015 ford expolorer xlt and the mechanic charge me almost $900 for fuel pump. I couldn't afford it so i should have the money before winter because i don't wont to go bad before that.
What are the test cables connected to? He covered it with his arm. Ughh.
Never heard of a test light can't we use a multi meter
Why did you use the jumper wire ? Couldn’t you just stick your probe into the terminal ?
@1a auto parts I ordered a throttle sensor on eBay from you guys how long will it take to ship
+Micaiah Lafleur Thank you for your order. Your order is scheduled to ship out today and will take 3-5 business days to arrive.
Thank you for the response
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What if you don’t have a fuel fitting to check the pressure in the engine, then what ?
Right..2010 ford mustang doesn't have one.
If FP relay & ASD relay are good but FP will not turn what's the next to look for
BTW FP is good
Chevrolet aveo
At random I lost power at the relay location so nothing going to the harness. Cannot figure it out. So strange.
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Thank you Randy!
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