What is with These OUTBOARD BRACKETS?!?!?!
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
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Love a Steiger Craft. Bet that boat had a pretty hard grounding to have fresh gray lower units and a cracked bracket. Those are solid boats. Nice work gentlemen
Wow, a Steiger Craft! I ain't seen much about them at all on UA-cam. They're made in Long Island, NY - they have a 'lifetime warranty' too. Wish you'd shown some in water videos of it! Great job BTW!
Nice job!!! I wanna see another vid when around 55 yrs old. LOL You young guys get into it so well!!
I see the boat hails from Keyport NJ. That's the next town over from me. Are you in Florida working on this?
Just finished a bracket install. After measuring and marking mounting hole locations
Drilled 2'' diameter mounting holes filled with West System epoxy (with the 209 slow harderner), 404, and some extra glass fiber. (3'' transom - built up epoxy with six 1/2 layers - this is 'fastest' I would recommend. - Wash off expoxy 'wax' and rough between layers).
Drilled 15/32'' holes through epoxy = the bolts self thread in so tight it seems they could hold without backing.
316 stainless 1/2'' mounting bolts - primed and painted the bolt shanks with marine epoxy, then wrapped in 3M dialectic tape. Cut 2'' washers from HDPE board, full size aluminum backing plate, 1 1/2'' wide 316 washers (over the HDPE washers) - Coated bolt theads and head/nut with Marelube 45.
Epoxy primed and painted inside/outside both the aluminum bracket and full sized aluminum backing plate. - All of this to insulate against galvanic corrosion. (Finish with zinc anode)
Mounting - Star pattern . On teach nut going at increments of 50lb, 80lb, 110lbs.
Two rings outer rings of 4200 both where the bracket and backing plate meet the transom. 2 rings of 4200 around each hole in the bracket and backing plate.
Easiest way to dry measure/mount. Dolly with 4 adjustable jack stands bolted on allows for full adjustability both height and angle and easy aligning and moving during prep.
@10:22 why wasnt he wearing saftey glasses?
yup!
Cool video but I don’t think putting the exact same bracket on was the right move because for whatever reason it failed originally (weight, exceeding the hp rating or just poor manufacturing) it’s more than likely going to happen again. Hopefully it holds up better then the last, keep the videos coming!
That was my question as well - why put the exact same bracket on if the first one failed?
@@jimr6281 same design, hopefully thicker/better aluminum. Bracket manufacturers will rate the brackets for horsepower. Should be around 450hp. That's what mine is warrantied to. but I only run a 300 on it.
That bracket is made just for SteigerCraft. Steiger makes the fiberglass swim platform specifically to go on that bracket
why did you use the 4200 instead of the 5200?
Using an oscillating tool with a commercial window glazing blade will make quick work of cutting through the sealer. Try it!
watching you guys work is great 👍 ❤
Thank you so much 😀
Love your videos why did you have to take the bracket off and replace ? Was it broken ?
How many billable hours?
Have you tried cutting the silicone with fishing braid line? It's what people use to remove car windscreens usually.
I have the same boat with a pair of 300hp Yamahas….I hope that crack was from a grounding impact and not from wear and tear…My boat has 1200hrs on it pounding out here in the rough Pacific Northwest and there in not one gel coat stress crack on the entire boat.
So @BornAgainBoating what caused the crack in the motor bracket?
I need my boat transom closed in I have a 1995 Robalo 243 to add stern brakitt
Me: Watching a video on boat platform replacement. UA-cam: You don’t own a boat…..yet….so here’s a little something to watch at 3am.
I had one crack on a new boat. It was replaced per warranty.
All that bracket needed was stronger, thicker, reinforced, or a combo of the three, side plates and you wouldn't ever have any issues again. Love the boat though, nice rig!
Great video and a job well done, thank you!
You're welcome!
Did not understand the part where engines get serviced and then get pulled off, layed down and then reeinstalled. Why not service engines ones they are back on after new bracket is on. 😳😳😳😏😏😏
Was the old bracket not built strong enough or was there a grounding that broke it?
Nexr time keep motors bolted on bracket then loosen all bracket bolts half way off. The weight oc the motors will.break.the 5200 seal. After seal is broken then remove motors and bracket.
What did you guys do with the old bracket will like to get it if is still available.
You need a transom saver for when it’s being towed.
5200 is forever. Love that stuff
heat the inside of the bracket, best way to get 5200 loose
That’s what i always tell people. Heat will take it right off every time.
Curious as to what caused those cracks. Hope its collision as some speculated. I am putting a single engine bracket on my SteigerCraft. That bracket and the one I got are custom made for Steiger.
Nice work brand new again
What kind of spray are you using when you go to smooth out the 4200 I guess what I'm asking is what's in the spray bottle thanks been watching your channel for a while
Any advantage of putting a engine bracket on a smaller boat let's say a 18' to 20'
How come brackets aren’t glassed in?
Great question! Not really sure, there are a ton of fiberglass brackets out there that are still bolted on, but then those that are glassed into the boat are almost more considered like a "Euro-Transom" or a "Pod" of some sorts. :/
I guess its all semantics at that point in time. But a lot of brackets are aluminum which can't really be glassed into the transom, they have to be bolted. Now if the bracket is made out of fiberglass, then ok, they could be glassed to the boat, but, the strength of the bolts if fine :)
Other than that, not really sure myself lol
Would it make sense to put flotation foam inside the bracket? Just wondering since all that weight is so far on the tail when using a bracket
No, for what ever reason you where to get water inside the bracket the foam would suck it up like a sponge then you will have alot bigger issue on your hands
@@chrishammer9891 I wouldn't think it would suck up water if you used closed cell foam. It would if you used open cell foam. Even with all that, I don't know how much it would actually help with flotation.
No, research Archimedes' law. Flotation inside a boat helps nothing for a displacement style craft. Well, it does when you boat is leaky or sinking, but you will have different things to worry about then.
It’s a Steigercraft… definitely a New England/east coast style boat
Long Island built. The bracket too
Ya'll make it look easy!
how much is an off shore bracket like that?
Depends, anywhere from $3-5K sometimes you can find used ones for cheaper though
Armstrong, they only bracket to consider..
All these O/B conversions, I understand the cost and ez or repair/replace. But I’d imagine if your boat was design to be I/B there be structural things to consider with the weight shifting. Right?
That wasn't a conversion. That came from Steiger that way.
Well done job
The bracket is cracked and the lower units are a different color than the rest of the engine.
I'm going to guess this boat had a traumatic impact that damaged the original lower units and cracked the bracket.
Not uncommon for new engines to have different color lowers.
Nice work but that bracket is a POS it has only one center web inside that is why it cracked who made that thing and it is a different size.
Fine work people but that sealing job was a mess. Next time use more soapier water and your thumbnail to remove the excess sealant and pull a nice and even seal. And before starting make sure you also wet your hand, each time again before putting your thumbnail back at the sealant. If needed, finish the job with a soft stroke of your wet finger.
True that!!
Also I always use the gun to push the sealant into the joint instead of dragging it over the top.
I’m sure it turned out good and it was just the clip you saw
Have you seen a lot of listing issues? Or outboard repowered hulls that were made for inboards that feel unsafe when not under power?
Aluminum bracket aluminum boat??August 1 2023
Debond, wedge plus TIME. More debond, more wedge, more time. A little more debond, tap the wedges, wait. Patience and it will come off. You have to keep the working edge wet, so heat is the enemy. Thats not youtube knowledge, thats BTDT knowledge.
It’s a Swim Step, Swim Platform, etc…
6:47 Anybody got a piece of cardboard to go under this thing so it doesn't get scratched? Oh yea, leaning against the building right there..
crap. that bracket will leak. make relief cuts. ?
Great job guys,that's a lot of work, and you make it look easy. Having done this, I know it is not.
Editing makes everythink look a bit easier than it actually is.
It’s not is it and the bill will reflect the amount of work and effort involved !
Blows my mind that Yamaha only paints cowls and not the entire outboard.
Pluses - plenty of bolts, 4200 IS better than 5200 here. Fast.
Negatives - Too fast. No big backing plates, no anode. No widening & epoxy fill for mounting holes. Too many small bolt mounting points. No assessments (shared) of the transom condition (is it wood or foam/composite core?). No nylon washers or tef-gel/marelube to prevent galvanic corrosion. No Stainless notes (are these 316, anything less is a hazard). Messy outside bead - easy to clean fast with a small plastic puddy knife or astute wet finger. Most important - no note on preventing galvanic corrosion between bolts and aluminum bracket - Bracket needs to be Very sealed against bolt contact. (Some use nylon washers - these have to be rated to the expected compression and I don't know the durability...)
You see a lot of boats with foam cored transoms do ya? Definitely 5200 for this application. A bracket is permanent...well it's supposed to be
@@Phil-km4up Fortunately more and more transoms are foam composites - these give the one chance for a permanant install. Problem is, brackets evolve, break, crack, other issues. 4200 is a great sealant. 5200 will rip through to the paint and fiberglass - yet it won't hold a bracket and motor on - that is the job of the bolts.
@@destinypirate what boat manufacturer is using foam as a core material on a transom? Are you thinking of Coosa? An engine bracket isn't an item that is supposed to get replaced, 5200 is absolutely the right choice.
@@Phil-km4up Coosa is one of the best options these days. Brackets are replaced all the time. One of the most common reasons is damage incurred from the motor striking objects - usually the ramp when sun-baked boaters forget to raise the motor up. Of course the most common reason is due rotten plywood. For the install we just saw, this new bracket can look forward to some nice galvanic corrossion...
Few things are permanent on a boat - Ex. Consoles - unless the fuel tank(s) are fully accessible, ''permanent'' consoles need to be removed - hence the wisdom in screws and 4200. Feel free to 5200 a bracket on and see if makes a ''structural hold'' for your motor. - The purpose of the 3m in this case is to act as a sealant, which 4200 does as well or better than 5200, which is something this installer got right.
@destinypirate again, what boat manufacturer is using foam cored transoms? One thing I did notice they forgot was to put a sacrificial anode on the bracket. And 5200 absolutely is the right product for this. Your outboard will kick up before it tears the bracket. You'll rip your lower unit off before damaging the bracket.
Welding the cracks would never work they needed to be plated and all this would be unnecessary
another reason I'm not a huge fan. SO MANY HOLES! ''lets build a boat and then put as many holes as we can in it FIRST.''
Debond…mystery of 5200 removal now solved
Heat works better
You left out all the swearing and yelling when everything doesn't go back exactly. Not the easiest to drill them holes in place, even getting a wrench in there. Estimate cost?
Your not up on proper terminology so I'll say your amatures