Dear Boris your videos are quite helpful. About non usual light conditions, I suggest an example with night photography, or even better a milky way picture
It's due to your Videos, that i have finally come to a deeper understanding of darktable. I have developed my own algorithm of editing and have selected my goto modules for any given Task in the process. This has vastly improved my editing results and my confidence in darktable. Thank you so much!
Thanks again. This is really interesting and I'll watch it again with DT open so I can have a go and try and get this firmly planted in my brain for future edits. I do struggle with high contrast scenes where there are intense light sources.
Really awesome effect with that first photo! So the crucial parts here were: 1) gamut compression in color calibration, 2) no chrominance preservation in filmic, and 3) channel manipulations in color calibration. I think I remember from one of Aurelien's (or maybe someone else's) videos that you could also use a dual white balance when there are two drastically different colors of light (e. g. warm indoor light with blue hour light visible outside through windows) - have you ever tried something like that too?
Thank you very much, great edits and very valuable inputs!😊 I was aware of the filmic options (I think from a video of Aurelien), but not of the effect of the gamut compression. Interesting note about the UV-light; would you by any chance now, why this is not filtered out in cameras? Because I think IR on the other hand is typically filtered out to avoid such effects on the reds...? Now I'll try to reproduce the edits and apply the learnings for future edits! Thanks again for this great initiative of yours!
Cameras have uv filter adapted for daylight and is not suitable for intense monochromatic light sources with partly uv radiation of wavelengths further away from it. But this is not the only reason for such artifacts. Also high intensity monochromatic light source especially in the vicinity of three primary color channels cause the jumps in the respective channel which cannot be interpreted by the gamut. This then leads to over-saturation and other artifacts of the corresponding channel.
I like the moderation in your examples. I think the key is to try to reproduce the remembered perception as it was processed by our brain. Nobody would actually "see" the face of the hatted guitar player such intense red as in the saturated version.
Really nice episode. In davinci you can darken the colors using the hsv hsl. And disabling channels 1 and 3. Ie h v and l. Is there something equivalent in darktable?
@@s7habo examples of what i speak of ua-cam.com/video/6brYbOjhUcU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/t0EUUKwizf4/v-deo.html Density min3 21 ua-cam.com/video/r1jWbMqwCwg/v-deo.html
@@Photovintageguy This is how the different saturation modes in the color balance module work. With linear chroma grading the saturation does not affect the brightness and with perceptual saturation grading the saturated areas become darker at the same time. The effect is even greater if you use the JzAzBz color space instead of darktable USC (masks tab - saturationformula - JzAzBz ).
I have a question. It would not be possible to state which PC or laptop is suitable for running darktable due to the complexity of some modules. Whether a PC or a laptop is better, for example from the point of view of the display - fidelity of presentation - so that calibration is not necessary. I am now faced with the question of upgrading a PC or buying a laptop. I'm running on a linux PC and I don't want to pay for pre-installed Windows. The question of how much is also important. Furthermore, for this reason, I would be interested in how to properly set up darktable in order to use the given machine to the maximum. Can you tell me what you are working on? Thank you and I look forward to more nice videos.
It depends on what you primarily use your computer for. If photo/video/audio processing plays a big role, then computer performance is top priority. That means lots of memory, good processor and most importantly a good graphics card.If you are using Linux, then the NVidia is a must as it has good drivers. And this is again very important for OpenCl/Vulkan support, which can increase the speed of darktable enormously. For photo processing, a good monitor is also very important. Good color reproduction and contrast without reflections is also a must. Laptop I will not recommend for this. They are basically more expensive for the same equipment as a PC. You always struggle with small screen. When overheating it can quickly become noisy, etc. If mobility does not matter then I will always choose PC. I have been using PC for 5 years: Operating System: Ubuntu Studio 22.04 Processors: 8 × Intel® Core™ i7-7700K CPU @ 4.20GHz Memory: 31.3 GiB of RAM Graphics Processor: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070/PCIe/SSE2 And I have invested in a very good monitor, which is very expensive, but for me it was definitely worth it: Eizo CG279X Maybe this disskusion will be interesting for you: discuss.pixls.us/t/new-desktop-computer-needed/31758 and also this: darktable-org.github.io/dtdocs/en/special-topics/mem-performance/
@@s7habo Thanks for the reply and opinion between PC and laptop. So I will invest in a PC again. I mainly work on photos on the PC. Just for the sake of interest, what darktable can be run on: My build from 3/2011 Operating system: openSUSE Leap 15.4 x86_64 Board: ASROCK 880G EXTREME3 Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 840 (4) @ 3.200GHz Memory: 11.6 GiB RAM Graphics processor: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730/PCIe/SSE2 Monitor: Dell U2515H (2560x1440) I wish you all the best and thanks for the very informative videos.
Thank you, Boris. Very helpful.
Dear Boris your videos are quite helpful. About non usual light conditions, I suggest an example with night photography, or even better a milky way picture
Boris, your videos are addictive. ❤
It's due to your Videos, that i have finally come to a deeper understanding of darktable. I have developed my own algorithm of editing and have selected my goto modules for any given Task in the process. This has vastly improved my editing results and my confidence in darktable. Thank you so much!
Thanks again. This is really interesting and I'll watch it again with DT open so I can have a go and try and get this firmly planted in my brain for future edits. I do struggle with high contrast scenes where there are intense light sources.
Thank you, again great video to understand working in darktable.
Very nice! Hadn't thought of the colorfulness tab in color calibration, but it works great!
Thanks for sharing. 👍
thanks again for deeper insight. would love to see you work on highlight reconstruction module.
Really awesome effect with that first photo! So the crucial parts here were: 1) gamut compression in color calibration, 2) no chrominance preservation in filmic, and 3) channel manipulations in color calibration. I think I remember from one of Aurelien's (or maybe someone else's) videos that you could also use a dual white balance when there are two drastically different colors of light (e. g. warm indoor light with blue hour light visible outside through windows) - have you ever tried something like that too?
Yes, but that multiple instances approach was not necesary for this examples.
Thank you very much, great edits and very valuable inputs!😊
I was aware of the filmic options (I think from a video of Aurelien), but not of the effect of the gamut compression. Interesting note about the UV-light; would you by any chance now, why this is not filtered out in cameras? Because I think IR on the other hand is typically filtered out to avoid such effects on the reds...?
Now I'll try to reproduce the edits and apply the learnings for future edits!
Thanks again for this great initiative of yours!
Cameras have uv filter adapted for daylight and is not suitable for intense monochromatic light sources with partly uv radiation of wavelengths further away from it. But this is not the only reason for such artifacts. Also high intensity monochromatic light source especially in the vicinity of three primary color channels cause the jumps in the respective channel which cannot be interpreted by the gamut. This then leads to over-saturation and other artifacts of the corresponding channel.
Very good video. Thank a lot.
Awesome
I like the moderation in your examples. I think the key is to try to reproduce the remembered perception as it was processed by our brain. Nobody would actually "see" the face of the hatted guitar player such intense red as in the saturated version.
Really nice episode. In davinci you can darken the colors using the hsv hsl. And disabling channels 1 and 3. Ie h v and l. Is there something equivalent in darktable?
I don't use davinci and unfortunately can't tell the equivalent in darktable.
@@s7habo examples of what i speak of
ua-cam.com/video/6brYbOjhUcU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/t0EUUKwizf4/v-deo.html
Density min3 21
ua-cam.com/video/r1jWbMqwCwg/v-deo.html
@@Photovintageguy
This is how the different saturation modes in the color balance module work. With linear chroma grading the saturation does not affect the brightness and with perceptual saturation grading the saturated areas become darker at the same time. The effect is even greater if you use the JzAzBz color space instead of darktable USC (masks tab - saturationformula - JzAzBz ).
@@s7habo thanks i think that points me in the right direction.
@@Photovintageguy By the way, you can also lighten/darken individual color channels in the "brightness" tab in the color calibration module.
I have a question. It would not be possible to state which PC or laptop is suitable for running darktable due to the complexity of some modules. Whether a PC or a laptop is better, for example from the point of view of the display - fidelity of presentation - so that calibration is not necessary. I am now faced with the question of upgrading a PC or buying a laptop. I'm running on a linux PC and I don't want to pay for pre-installed Windows. The question of how much is also important. Furthermore, for this reason, I would be interested in how to properly set up darktable in order to use the given machine to the maximum. Can you tell me what you are working on? Thank you and I look forward to more nice videos.
It depends on what you primarily use your computer for. If photo/video/audio processing plays a big role, then computer performance is top priority. That means lots of memory, good processor and most importantly a good graphics card.If you are using Linux, then the NVidia is a must as it has good drivers. And this is again very important for OpenCl/Vulkan support, which can increase the speed of darktable enormously.
For photo processing, a good monitor is also very important. Good color reproduction and contrast without reflections is also a must.
Laptop I will not recommend for this. They are basically more expensive for the same equipment as a PC. You always struggle with small screen. When overheating it can quickly become noisy, etc. If mobility does not matter then I will always choose PC.
I have been using PC for 5 years:
Operating System: Ubuntu Studio 22.04
Processors: 8 × Intel® Core™ i7-7700K CPU @ 4.20GHz
Memory: 31.3 GiB of RAM
Graphics Processor: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070/PCIe/SSE2
And I have invested in a very good monitor, which is very expensive, but for me it was definitely worth it: Eizo CG279X
Maybe this disskusion will be interesting for you: discuss.pixls.us/t/new-desktop-computer-needed/31758
and also this: darktable-org.github.io/dtdocs/en/special-topics/mem-performance/
@@s7habo Thanks for the reply and opinion between PC and laptop. So I will invest in a PC again. I mainly work on photos on the PC. Just for the sake of interest, what darktable can be run on:
My build from 3/2011
Operating system: openSUSE Leap 15.4 x86_64
Board: ASROCK 880G EXTREME3
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 840 (4) @ 3.200GHz
Memory: 11.6 GiB RAM
Graphics processor: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730/PCIe/SSE2
Monitor: Dell U2515H (2560x1440)
I wish you all the best and thanks for the very informative videos.
So that is what gamut compression does.....