I believe the 12v - 48v system they sell allows for that, but I'm not sure. It would be nice to see the max voltage of 150 - 200. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I based the comment on tear down findings that displays in these sort of devices are often tethered only by a ribbon cable. It could also be the way you described, but you'd have to look to know.
Set evening four 23 and move on to int set to 23 then move on to dawn set to 23 and your charge will last a lot longer. If you set evening four 24 u can't set the other case. Let it cycle for 48 hours you will see the difference
100 amps should be bigger wire than #6. Code says 2ga and that's what I'd prefer, but 4ga might be okay if the wire has high temperature insulation and same for the ends.
The argument can be so you don't put all your eggs in one basket. One thing fails and everything could go down for good. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the comment.
I bought one of these in the 12/24/48 configuration and the menu seems to be exactly the same. I have a 15 cell 48 volt lifepo4 battery which is supposed to be charged at 56.6 volts. Do I just need to set the PV off voltage to 56.6 and it is ready to go
Yes it's 24v.... it was working ok keeping the battery at %100 then two days ago I heard the low voltage alarm I noticed the load off when I tried to turn it back on after I full charge the battery it wouldn't turn on
After using your Victrons I’m surprised you didn’t lose your mind trying to decipher that Chinese controller..lol 😛 I sympathized with you the whole way through.
If only the Victron controller cable terminals would allow for 4AWG cable because my panels as 100' from my charge controller. That's the only reason I didn't get those.
Do you have to use the remote or can you make the same changes directly from the charge controller? The cable is only 7 feet long so I’d just as soon not even use it
love your channel ok do you realize the 1250w number has nothing to do with the pv input. if you take the 12.5v charging voltage multiply by 100a then you get 1250w.the only thing from your solar input that matters is the volts. this is a dc/dc buck converter. your solar watts has nothing to do with anything at all. your controller needs are volts from the pv. hope you can see what i am trying to say if not that's fine.
Yes. For a 12v system, the most you are going to push to the battery is 1250w. You can have 3000w worth of solar panels as long as the voltage does exceed 96v. But if you have 3k in solar panels, the most you're going to convert is 1250w to the battery.
I would of liked to see a higher PV voltage to lower the amps in the cables coming in.
I believe the 12v - 48v system they sell allows for that, but I'm not sure. It would be nice to see the max voltage of 150 - 200. Thanks for the comment.
Hi there, Did you figure out how to setup the battery type to Lifepo4 or do you know if it does automatically?
I can’t find that information anywhere
i have two of those and your right the ifo sucks in the manual plu its as you state it reads differant then my fluke meter
Thanks for the info and the comment.
I wonder if you can open the remote display and flip the LCD 180. I guess it depends how it's connected but it might be doable.
My guess would be extensive rewiring and / or soldering. If you like doing that sort of thing it might be worth it. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I based the comment on tear down findings that displays in these sort of devices are often tethered only by a ribbon cable. It could also be the way you described, but you'd have to look to know.
Set evening four 23 and move on to int set to 23 then move on to dawn set to 23 and your charge will last a lot longer. If you set evening four 24 u can't set the other case. Let it cycle for 48 hours you will see the difference
Thanks for the info and the comment.
100 amps should be bigger wire than #6. Code says 2ga and that's what I'd prefer, but 4ga might be okay if the wire has high temperature insulation and same for the ends.
You're correct. For a full 100 amps you would need a minimum of 4 awg. You can fit 2 awg, but it's a tight squeeze. Thanks for the comment.
They are releasing a new 100 amp controller on may 24.
Nice. Do they list any improvements?
I’m going to be making my inverter purchase soon. Many are offered with a built in charge controller. I don’t see the wisdom of buying it separately.
The argument can be so you don't put all your eggs in one basket. One thing fails and everything could go down for good. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the comment.
Where is the grounding bolt?
I sure can't find one and the manual doesn't state anything about grounding. Bummer.
I bought one of these in the 12/24/48 configuration and the menu seems to be exactly the same. I have a 15 cell 48 volt lifepo4 battery which is supposed to be charged at 56.6 volts. Do I just need to set the PV off voltage to 56.6 and it is ready to go
sorry I meant 54.6 volts for charging
Yes. That is correct. Just set the charge voltage and make sure the float voltage is correct as well. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the quick response. I guess I didn't see the float voltage option which one is that on the controller?
I bet they meant "Flooded Lead-Acid" when they said immersion.
I bet you're right.
The load doesn't stay on do you know why.
I have ooycyoo 80 amps
Do you have the charge voltage set correctly for your battery chemistry?
Yes it's 24v.... it was working ok keeping the battery at %100 then two days ago I heard the low voltage alarm I noticed the load off when I tried to turn it back on after I full charge the battery it wouldn't turn on
Did you figure out the efficiency of it?
The website states the CC is 99% efficient, but I haven't verified that.
What did you set yor ooycyoo at
I just did a review. I haven't set it up in a system yet.
After using your Victrons I’m surprised you didn’t lose your mind trying to decipher that Chinese controller..lol 😛
I sympathized with you the whole way through.
Believe me, you can't compare anything to Victron. Thanks for the comment!
@@OffGridBasement I concur
If only the Victron controller cable terminals would allow for 4AWG cable because my panels as 100' from my charge controller. That's the only reason I didn't get those.
Do you have to use the remote or can you make the same changes directly from the charge controller? The cable is only 7 feet long so I’d just as soon not even use it
Everything can be done from the controller or the remote. You don't need to have the remote connected at all.
We need to start a Chinese product naming service. They just pay us to give them a name Americans can pronounce 😂
😂😂😂
Not a bad idea. 😁 I feel bad about not being able to pronounce the manufacturer, but I gave it my best shot!
Oy-See-yo Spoken very fast
love your channel ok do you realize the 1250w number has nothing to do with the pv input. if you take the 12.5v charging voltage multiply by 100a then you get 1250w.the only thing from your solar input that matters is the volts. this is a dc/dc buck converter. your solar watts has nothing to do with anything at all. your controller needs are volts from the pv. hope you can see what i am trying to say if not that's fine.
Yes. For a 12v system, the most you are going to push to the battery is 1250w. You can have 3000w worth of solar panels as long as the voltage does exceed 96v. But if you have 3k in solar panels, the most you're going to convert is 1250w to the battery.
@@OffGridBasement thanks
Where is the grounding bolt?
@@danahenderson5318 not sure what you mean there is no ground in solar
@@hayzersolar just Google it bro, there are plenty of examples of grounding your solar charge controller
Allow to cycle for 48 hours
No descriptions of functions, and pissy instructions
Thanks for the comment.
I hate dorks