Zip System Liquid Flash Application
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- Опубліковано 29 жов 2021
- This Video demonstrates how to properly apply the zip system liquid flash on zip system sheathing by Huber Engineered Woods. Within this real demonstration, you will see how the concrete foundation, bottom sole plate, and wall sheathing is liquid flashed to prevent a air tight, bug tight, more energy efficient seal that is also waterproof and protecting the bottom edge of the zip system sheathing panel. You will also see how I properly liquid flashed around all the external penetrations such as the receptacle outlet boxes, gas & plumbing line protrusions, AC protrusions, and all the lower nail heads on the wall sheathing below 30”.
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Awesome job on wrapping the liquid flashing on the bottom of the door openings. This world needs more builders like you.
Thank you!
I own a body shop and would be really good at doing this. LOL
The most awesome job I’ve seen anywhere!
I have watched a bunch of these videos and the best install yet. Nice work!
Thank you! I am thinking about starting to do more videos. I normally don’t shoot video, but I decided too on this one.
The problem is builders build, they don't care about quality of work, its to take the money as fast as they can and move on to next job. They don't care after the 1 or 2 year warranty that they have to provide by law. Great Job. If you put the pencil to it, the cost is very little compared to the overall cost of the home.
Great job. Awesome workmanship.
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Quality workmanship!
Thank you!
Excellent!
Thank you!
Great job
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Now that’s love!
Thank you! I love what I do!
Could you use laticrete hydro ban for this? I know it’s meant for showers, but it seems like this would be a perfect application for it. Also a lot faster than this zip liquid flash.
Okay so what do you put in-between the concrete and your footer board or whatever it is called? That's what I was trying to find and it sent me to your video.
Not sure if you already answered this but what is the typical labor cost per linear foot?
Nice video! Pro job! Any tips or pointers on installing zip system on an older house that needs new siding as well??
Thank you! I would recommend properly removing all the existing siding and diagnosing if there is any structural damage from there (rot, old termite damage, etc). From there, replace any structural wood as needed. If no structural damage was visible or once repaired, you can then start installing all the zip system sheathing to the structure. Measure precisely the measurement from the bottom of the bottom sole plate to the top of the top plate. Depending on that measurement, you can purchase different lengths of zip system ranging from 96” in length to 121-1/8” in length (with various in between common sizes). It is structurally the strongest to attach the sheathing from the bottom plate to the top plate. However, still consult with a structural engineer for your nail off pattern for your local area (depends on which wind zone your in, what state, city, etc). Following that, nail it off to the specifications provided by the certified engineering. Once that is complete, but sure to zip tape in a water shedding fasten and roll the tape. Liquid flash all penetrations, Lower 24” nail heads on sheathing, and bottom nail plate to foundation as shown in the video. I hope this helps. Be sure to like and subscribe as I’ll be posting helpful videos twice a week.
Thanks!
Could you roll on foundation liquid rubber sealant? It's way cheaper and rolled on quicker?
Nice
Isn't roofing mastic the same basic product? Couldn't that be used in place of this liquid flashing?
When you say ‘take this’ to spread the liquid flashing, what is that tool?
How do you seal the bottom when you have a brick ledge? I imagine the paper flashing doesn’t do a good job of air sealing!
I am waiting for a more liquid spray flashing, sort of like spray foam, but not expanding.
How in the hell do you puncture the damn tube? Start at the beginning
Nice demo, thanks! Do you think it could possibly promote rot because of being vapor impermeable?
Thank you! I do not think it could promote it as you are not sealing all sides of the wood, so it can still breath. If you were sealing all 6 sides (like a cube with 6 sides), then you could lock in moisture.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 Thanks! In cold weather, any surface against the outside of a dwelling envelope is getting almost continuous vapor pressure from the dwelling - vapor flowing from interior to exterior. If the vapor barrier is on the outside, it traps vapor behind it. I say this because I have made this mistake.
@@nobreighner zip's panels are vapor-permeable from the inside to the out. There's a whole section on their site about it.
@@kevinprociw3168 Thanks. I was referring to the liquid flash. The care put into it is wonderful, but here in the PNW it may cause a problem, because air-tight exterior walls all tend to rot. Have torn into remodels where the old (loose tar paper) is good and the new (sealed up) is rot. I don't have the answer, except maybe to avoid wood in the envelope?
Great Video...and workmanship. Question I have is ,
1)do you really need the tape border , which gets pulled off anyway. As long as you have a nice wide liquid then that should do correct???
2)Also, at 7:36, there was not any tape over the liquid flash...did you put later??
3) Is there PT wood on bottom of frame wall, like I see on inside???
4) Is there any standard as to how high up you put liquid flash on nails??? Or just 1-2 feet suffice??
Hey Dave! Thank you and Great Questions
1. No you really do not need to tape. It’s a nice guide and it’s good to be approximately 2” above and below seam (approx 4” wide total). However, the tape just makes it looks nice and clean even though it may all get covered up. However, the bottom of the liquid flash may come down lower than the siding and could be seen although it would be getting painted, still looks nice as you will see that straight line with the paint overtop rather than it spread all over the foundation.
2. Yes, it was put on after. You always want to install everything in a water shedding fasten.
3. Yes, the bottom sole plate is PT. It is also code as well.
4. You techinically do not have to do any of the nail heads. However, I do highly recommend it on the lower 2’ or so just from the splash up of water off of the ground that could potentially get behind the siding. Extra protection never hurts. I also recommend doing it around all penetrations, receptacle outlets, and plumbing protruding through the exterior sheathing.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 Very impressive, young man. Most homeowners couldn't care less or even know why this is important but YOU will. Good job
@@theefficientbuilder5386 Is that really the requirement so you have to lay out 4" for an 1/8" crack? Will it peel off or something if not wide enough?
Hey everyone, if you like the video and would like to see more videos like this, be sure to like & subscribe and comment below. Thanks for watching The Efficient Builder. ua-cam.com/channels/96Bm9bZqyeyTHI5YeQ-asA.htmlfeatured
Did you use a different siding for the outdoor shower ? I have a similar application
Hardie lap is perfect here! Same siding.
Will you install exterior insulation and also will you put a drip edge with a bug screen over the liquid flash? Very nice video!
doesn zip ahve built in foam on the inside?
ZIP -R has foam up to R-15 IIRC.@@randomrazr
Did you do a blower door on this project?
How tight was the house?
I did not, however I may do the test still on this project.
Does that house has plywood too or just densglass?thanks.
ZIP is OSB with the green waterproofer on top.
How about the capillary effect? The connection of the base plate and concrete?
Did you use the seal seal foam( base plate and the concrete connection?
Yes, I still use sill foam underneath the PT bottom plate.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 Hmmm cant see it ???
@@bassplayermarty6032 He mentions that he cut it back, then swept and vacuumed.
@@bobmullins765 Rob Mullins from SFV...?
The "most secure" installation method isn't that secure since your door jamb is just floating on a few shims. To be more secure, you need to plum your stud on the hinge side and install your jamb directly on the stud. Use lots of fasteners. Shims may still be needed on the other sides but at least you have one really sturdy connection to your frame.
Should the flashing tape go over the liquid flash or the other way around? Id worry the tape might not adhere to the liquid flash vs the other way.
Flash should go over the tape - called huber to ask that exact question and they said clean the tape with acetone and then apply liquid flash over top of the tape
@@wallacewoodworks9582 Thanks for letting us know!
It all depends. As I mentioned in the video, all flashing should be installed / applied in a water shedding fashion. The people you spoke to on the phone may not have understood your scenario. If applied over the tape and the tape delaminated from the sheathing, now tell me how well the liquid flashing is working.
How can one order wood in bulk at a reasonable price?
Unfortunately you can’t. But you have to do what you have to do in order to work.
7:24 I believe the Zip tape is not recommended to stick to the Zip liquid flash. Instead, they recommend to clean the surface of the tape with acetone, then coat the top of the tape with the liquid flash.
Hey Jim! It is the other way around. You do not liquid flash overtop of the tape. You can install the tape overtop of the liquid flash once the liquid flash is cured.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 Actually, that is not true. Do an internet search for the ZIP installation documents and you will see what I am saying is correct. It is in the following Huberwood documents:
HUB 9214 REV 8/20 (Compatibility of Zip System Flashing Tape with Zip System Liquid Flash)
HUB 9214 specifically says, "We do not recommend installing Zip System flashing tape over top of Zip System liquid flash."
HUB 82267 REV 6/20 (Zip System Liquid Flash Installation Manual, page 7)
@@Chrissers2010 It's true, I asked the rep a while ago and they confirmed to liquid flash over the tape, and not to tape over the liquid flash. Seems backwards, but they insisted that was they way to do it.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 I also had the same concern. When I read the docs I remember it being the other way around. I would love any clarification on what I'm missing as I don't want to do this incorrectly.
Via this manual: www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/Compatability-of-ZIP-System-Tape-with-ZIP-System-Liquid-Flash-Tech-Tip-Wall-and-Roof-ZIP-System_2021-01-25-152721.pdf
"We do not recommend installing ZIP System flashing tape over top of ZIP System liquid flash"
Why lay a wide area around all the joints and penetrations? Why not just a 1/2" or so at the joint? is it lapped with something else when the Zip itself is waterproof? Is there a minimum width of material? When you tape it off of course you are wasting some of the material just to get a fine line that no one will see. But I like it.
Nearly all these liquid flash products call for 2" past the joint in every direction. I imagine it's based on testing, or possibly code.
Masking the area with tape is the mark of a custom builder. You make things look pleasing, by making them look orderly, neat, clean, and straight. But only if they'll be visible for more than a couple days. As custom homes are being built, they may be visited by homeowners, architects, new potential clients, and various other trades. When people see good looking work, they don't necessarily know why it looks good, but the get a sense of quality. Believe me, this kind of detail sells. The trades talk, the customers talk, architects see, and potential customers see.
What material use?
Several products out there, just any type of a liquid flashing. This one is particular is Huber Zip System liquid flashing shown here.
Wood in direct contact with the concrete? You dont think its a problem?
Not at all. However, underneath the 2x6 bottom/sill plate, there is foam sill plate gasket along with the bottom plate being pressure treated. Any wood framed house on a concrete foundation is built this way. The common thing you NEVER see this step shown here, liquid flashing.
@@theefficientbuilder5386 thanks for the quick reply and thank you for the quick note on the sill plate. We use asphaltic membrane to "cut" moisture by capillarity. About this video, liquid flashing is a must, this is a piece of art what you guys are doing. Congrats!
Why do you have to tape the top part? It’s going to get covered. Just wondering if it’s really necessary lol
It's a water and air barrier. Water absolutely gets behind the cladding of your house. The main reason to do it though is air sealing for a tight envelope so that air flow in and out of the house can be fully controlled.
Most builders don’t even roll the tape.
You are absolutely correct! That is a step that is commonly missed and very much a necessity! Rolling it is what activates the adhesive to properly bond to the substrate, also known as wetting the adhesive.
They need to ship this stuff in pails. Shooting it through a straw is slow AF. Slop it on and go.
Zipaholic
Hmmm just tar in a tube...
the water can weep up from the outside dirt into the concrete foundation and then into the floor plate...
It is definitely far from tar in a tube. I would recommend purchasing the product and testing it for yourself to get a feel for it. No other product on the market like it. Huber makes some awesome products. The water won’t weep up through the concrete foundation as that why there is a moisture barrier underneath the foundation prior to pouring the concrete slab foundation. Even if it did come up through, that is the reason why a pressure treated bottom plate is used for secondary. The purchase of the zip system liquid flash is explained in the video and I would recommend watching the whole video if you didn’t already. There is more to it than besides sealing off the bottom of the zip system sheathing panels. You can use this on any penetrations that come through the zip panel as explained and shown in the video. Thanks for watching and he sure to subscribe!
It’s def not tar in a tub and this guy did outstanding. No one would ever mask off the area and that shows pride in one’s work. But there is a barrier missing between the concrete and the sill plate. Typically a foam layer will stop that wicking.
@@thereefaholic
At 1:17 he mentioned that "foam" (a sill plate gasket) was used, and that he cut it back a little to provide space for the Zip flashing fluid to bridge between the concrete and the Zip Sheeting.
You are bad as I am nice work it will pay off contractors don’t care they want the money and run sad
Thank you!
Thanks for the video but please take care of that covid cough.