Thanks for sharing your approach to buying tractors! It's great to hear that you've had success with buying affordable machines that can still be easily maintained and repaired. Stay Up-to-Date with the Latest in Agriculture Technology: Subscribe to @AgDealerTV UA-cam Channel Today!
Thank you for taking the time to explain all of that Mr. Wayne. I am considering on for general use on 8 acres and possible expansion in the future . As a first time buyer this type of information is greatly appreciated.
Good information, but I recommend starting a tractor only when you are sitting in the tractor seat. Starting a tractor while standing in front of the rear tire has resulted in deaths and serious injury. Some of the old tractors will start while in gear. If the tractor immediately starts, when you turn that key, and the tractor is in gear, you can’t move away from that tire fast enough before it rolls over you. Newer tractors have safety features, which old tractors do not have.
Totally right about the resale value. I have owned several tractors in a row and each time I sell them, I sell for more than what I paid 5 years earlier. At least two of the times, I probably got enough extra to also cover all the Repairs and Diesel I had ever put into it. Its like a free tractor. The only downside to selling them is that your next one always ends up costing more than your last one. When you go to buy an old tractor, look it up online and see what the original price was. Most of the time, inflation is higher than depreciation and the used tractor, even 20 or 30 years old, is selling for more than it sold when it was new.
If the oil is black it's bad? Weird I've been a diesel mechanic for quite a while and the oil in any Cummins or cat is black as night 5 minutes after changing it. Diesel rated oil is meant to deal with the soot and it is not a problem.
I would do a compression test and check the radiator core for scale deposits in case the previous owners ever use water only as a coolant and check the water and power steering pumps for leaks, i would not buy a tractor without a two stage clutch, or a high and low range transmission or power steering, ..a two stage clutch allows you to stop tractor but not the pto it also allows the hydraulic pump to lift the arms when clutch is stopping tractor. I would also recommend one with a front loader which is very useful for way more than scouping .you can use it to load or unload heavy items on a truck, mix cement, lift and move machinery ,lift logs, use as a safe platform to paint or pick fruit, as a snow plow, use it instead of a cart to carry tools in, clear small bushes and prickers , pile and push brush fires , it will even help if you are stuck..
The engine oil check method to determine whether or not the tractor has been maintained is old and useless. Sellers can replace the oil prior to advertising it for sale. They do it all the time on craigslist when selling used cars.
Also, coolant has a sickly sweet smell (that's the stuff that'll kill you if you drink it). If there is a decent breeze and you can smell it pretty strong, I would be very cautious. If the air is still and you can only get a faint hint now and then, don't worry too much, but a quick check for leaks wouldn't hurt. If it smells like someones trying to drown you in pancake syrup, don't bother unless you know _exactly_ what it is and how to fix it.
Folks, there's really no such thing as a "cheap" used tractor... There's overpriced, reasonable, and junk. LOL! Seriously though, you often will get what you pay for. However, BUYER BEWARE! Every law of physics applies. If it seems too good to be true, it most likely is! New is NOT always the answer, especially for most normal people without deep pockets. Personally, I don't want anything that's new, even though I could likely afford it if I wanted to. New means very high monthly payments, and loads of interest due to the sheer expense of a brand new machine. Nowadays, "new" means DEF fluid and lots of terrible emissions controls that are known to kill diesel engine efficiency and reliability. (NO THANKS!!!) New models can mean that a particular model hasn't had its kinks and flaws worked out yet by a prior "owner" if they haven't been in production for several years already. So nah, I'll pass on "NEW". You guys with the deep pockets are more than welcome to take that initial financial "hit" for us average Joe's. Try to buy a tractor with lower operating hours if possible. That said, keep in mind that hours can, and often do, lie. Hour meters are often broken or have been repaired or replaced after many years of not working. Engines and transmissions can be overhauled and no notable way to know if the hour meter has been changed or left as it was at time of major overhaul. Some tractors (mostly older ones, pre-early 1950's) don't have and never had an hour meter or tachometer for that matter. The age of a tractor isn't terribly important, it's more about how the machine has been cared for over its lifetime. Hours on a tractor are a lot like miles on an automobile. A good baseline for a worn out diesel tractor engine is 10,000 hours for larger diesels (90+Hp), and about 5,000 to 7,000 hrs for medium to smaller diesels (40 - 90Hp). The compact diesels are even lower before they are typically hosed, somewhere around 3,000 - 5,000hrs (10 - 40Hp) typically. Look for not a lot of tire wear, cuts, or dry rot in the rubber. Particularly the rear tires, as they are the most expensive to replace. Look for rear rims that aren't rotted, especially around the valve stems, due to Calcium Chloride (liquid ballast) leakage that causes corrosion and rot. Look for moderate seat wear, and see if the seat is original to the tractor or if a modern $100 "aftermarket special" has been slapped on it to hide the original's severe wear. Very often, new seats are installed by guys who are tractor "flippers". It will usually be accompanied with slapping a fresh coat of paint, a new muffler, sometimes new decals and gauges, to boot. (All depends on how much they want to hide.) Some guys even put on new steering wheels to help hide the age of older, often cracked steering wheels. Look for 3-point hitch arm pivots to not have excessive wear, and that the 3-point functions properly. Will it lift and hold a load of 500 to 2,000 lbs, on average? (It depends upon the on each individual tractor's lift specifications, of course.) Look for rear swinging drawbar hole to have minimal wear and minimal side-to-side as well as fore-and-aft slop. Look for minimal PTO wear on the shaft, no PTO seal leakage, and check to see if any slop is in the shaft from side to side when twisting it by hand with tractor not running, of course. If at all possible, ask to hook the PTO up to something like a brush hog, a baler, or any implement at all really that will put a load on the PTO to check its proper operation. Look for little wear on the clutch and brake pedals. Look for excess slop in the steering components as well as all of the various axle & steering pivot joints, including the axle knuckles, spindles, and wheel bearings. Most front-ends on tractors both 2wd and 4wd are very commonly neglected and overlooked for both regular maintenance and needed repairs until it's far too late. When looking at loader tractors... the front ends are critical to check over. Beyond that, now you have the loader to look at as well. Try to look for loader tractors that haven't been used hard. (Typically not very easy to do, as most people buy loader tractors to actually USE them.) Look for buckets that aren't twisted or bent. Look for cutting edges on buckets that aren't worn off or mostly worn off. Look for structural cracks in bucket, loader arms, and loader frames. Look for leaks at all hydraulic hoses and valve bodies. Look for leaks at all hydraulic cylinders. Look for moderate downward seepage/leakage when loader is raised 1/2 way up, bucket is fully curled, and engine is shut off - (any movement within a 5 minute or less period means there's something hydraulically wrong). Make sure loader can pick the front of the tractor off of the ground with both the loader arms cylinders AND the bucket tilt cylinders. (That's assuming that they are all the more modern (built within the past 50 years or so) "double-acting" hyd cylinders of course.) Look for all pivot pin points that aren't sloppy, and that the correct pins are still installed. Back to ALL tractors... Frankly, look for any moving part on the machine, to have been kept lubed properly. Look for machines that don't smoke excessively when running. Look for good, clean coolant. Look for good oil level in crankcase - close to the full mark, but not over. Smell engine oil to be sure there's no fuel in it. Check the water pump for slop and/or any leakage. Check all belts and hoses. Check power steering fluid level (if applicable) and for any steering fluid leaks. Check to see that alternator is charging properly. Check battery (or batteries) for age and corrosion on terminals. Check gauges operation. Check lights. On cab tractors, check doors, windows, glass, hinges, seals, A/C (if applicable), heat, radio, window wipers, vents, roof condition, overall cab interior, and so much more! Check to see if engine fuel filter(s) has (have) been cleaned and/or changed in the last year or so. Check the coolant (radiator fluid) level, and check to see that there's no engine oil mixed in the coolant. Check engine oil to be sure there's no water (coolant) in it. Check hydraulic/transmission oil level, and condition. You don't want "milky" (water infused) hyd/trans oil or very low hyd/trans oil level. Hydraulic/transmission fluid is typically very clear to golden brown when like new or in good clean condition. On a manual transmission tractor (which is most of them), put transmission in one of the two highest ground speed gears, and see if you can press the brakes and stall the tractor engine out. (You SHOULD be able to stall the engine out.) If it doesn't stall, either the clutch is slipping badly, or the brakes are inadequate. Check the brakes. The pedals should be roughly the same height when pressing each side down to make contact. They also should not drop more than 50% of the pedal's total available travel from the fully raised to fully depressed position. The brakes should make the tractor tires skid when traveling along at a moderate speed and then press clutch in and slam on both brakes together. With hydraulic brakes, hold pressure down on pedals. They should NOT slowly seep/creep downward to the floorboard when holding them on with moderate to strong foot pressure. If a 4-wheel drive tractor, make sure the 4x4 actually works. Also make sure there are no 'bad" sounds coming from the front end, driveshafts, or transfer case when it is engaged and in operation. Make sure the MFWD isn't leaking oil from the front spindles, axle tubes, or outboard wheel planetaries. There's just soooo much to look at on any used piece of equipment. Enough to give many folks a big headache. LOL At least I've begun to scratch the surface with what I've written here folks!
+James Avery : Done, & thanks for the heads-up. Not sure why it smeared everything I wrote together when I originally posted what I wrote. I know I was using my g/f's tablet instead of my laptop/PC when I posted originally. Anyhow, I went through quickly and "re-paragraphed" (Is that even a word? - LOL) it quickly with my laptop after being notified by your response. Hopefully it's easier to read now.
Oil can be deceiving. Why would anyone sell their tractor without changing the oil, It seems that people think the tractor is in good shape if the oil is clean. Is that Ford a cheap tractor? What do they go for? I would guess about $3800? That seems enough considering someone bought that 35 hp tractor for about $6500 new in 1975. A barely running 44 massey goes for $1500+ around here. I doubt there are any cheap tractors out there.
$6,500 in 1975 equals around $32,000.00 in 2019 dollars, therefore buying one today for $3.800.00 means your paying around 11 % of what it cost new.......apples to apples not apples to oranges always works best.....
2-4k for a 50 year old tractor isn't bad. Its about what they cost new 50 years ago. They don't loose value. You can find one in bad shape for 850 take it home rebuild it and spend 2k on parts and have a 3k dollar tractor, or find one someone took care of for 2-5k buy it and use it but that's cheap compared to buying a brand new import tractor. And the old 1940's tractor 70+ years old has been dragged through the mudd. Your 2018 gmc, or ford truck won't be around in 70 years but that dam tractor will still be pulling mud. Thats if you didn't store the truck in a controled space garage parked for 70 years. Honestly and you have to think about this how many modern cars will still be around in 50 years? Because anything built pre 1970 has a good chance, anything after 1970 not so much. Automobiles got more complex, and cheaper metal the older a car is the better built it was same with just about anything. You can pick up a wood plane your great great grandfather used to earn a living and use it today if it was taken care of or refurbished. Your not going to be able to do that with a lot of today's brand tools. Sure some you will. If you buy them off a truck.
I have traded for a lot of tractors just to paint and turn for a $ and to use. The Ford 3000 for any small plot is hard to beat. Probably the easiest to sell as well.
John Deere 4030 and Massey Ferguson 35 or Massey Ferguson 135 are also good ones for small farms. And Theres so many of them around, that you can still find spare parts. Especially for the Massey Fergusons, the darn thing (and it's derivatives) sold in the millions across the world. But yes, I agree, the Ford 3000 and 4000-series were very popular small tractors as well.
The early Ford tractors are getting really hard to find, unless you live in the USA. It just didn't have the same market penetration worldwide, as the Massey Ferguson did.
Marc, our Extension Specialist says "I have read that the 8N is the best selling tractor of all time. Is it to show or work? If price and condition are equal and you want to use it - 8N. They were (are) great tractors."
The equivalent to the Ford 3000 would probably be the Massey Ferguson 35 or 135, maybe even a MF 235 ? And if you live in the US, you may also look into the John Deere 4030, another very popular small tractor. Mind you, if you want to get a frontloader, pretty much all old tractors tend to be bad for that. Hydraulics have improved quite a bit over the years, and also, the oil pump that is the heart of the system tends to wear out eventually, hampering performance significantly On the other hand, those older tractors have all sorts of nostalgia to them. For that, it's really the buyer that is important, not the tractor - Buy the memories and nostalgia that goes with them! If your dad had an old Ford 3000, get one, if he had a Massey, get one of those instead. My dad had a Volvo & Bolinder-Munktell BM-350 tractor, which is getting pretty darn rare, even here in Scandinavia! As for moving snow, get one of those old rear mounted, three-point-hitch & PTO driven, snowblowers. Yes, you will have to reverse around throwing snow all over the place, but they're cheap and effective. Edit : As for the hours, that can be hard to say, as it depends on how well it has been treated, as well on how well it has been rebuild. However, a good solid advice on that, would be to visit a forum for hobbyists of the particular type of tractor. They usually know those tractors inside out, and can tell you exactly what to watch out for. Also, most tractors from back then were almost entirely gasoline.
I have found that 50-75 HP tractors often sell for less than the smaller ones because there are so many people with 5-10 acre tracts, I prefer a larger tractor and work is easy
I have a John Deere 790 tractor which I got in 2003 new, and love it. The tractor don't get used much and have been primarily used with the brush hog, box blade, and landscaping rake. I have other equipment for it, but they have not been used on it that much. I have never worked on old tractors and the two people I operated a tractor for while working for them had new tractors (Massey Ferguson, and Ford). When I looked for one for my own use, I made sure that it was new since I had no experience with working on them, and didn't want to deal with the problems associated with older tractors starting off.
That was very educational instruction, thank you. I have question 9000$ how big tractor with loader I can get,a good,used clean tractor,, high horsepower
Merry Christmas. I have a question there is a Ford 8340 4 × 4 but there is a problem with the hydraulic pump First according to add the Wheels 70% 4 × 4 Not working Could be pump delay or Solonid is it a good deal or not is it easy to fix any advice
On some tractors you can change the pto shaft from 540 to 1000 or vice versa. I'm not sure if you can with the ford but I know it's possible with John Deere's.
Many tractors have dual speed pto boxes . You have to get an adapter if you have an implement requiring a different spline count. Most are gonna be 6 spline reguardless now days because most tractors have the ability to run 540 or 1000 rpm on the pto
This guy has done this so long, he really can't adopt the perspective of the typical person buying a cheap tractor. You need to look deeper into the condition of a used tractor than is presented here. My recommendation is to have a mechanic look it over.
I heard no mention of the engines being diesel or gas? Those seem to be agriculture tractors? I would need a backhoe and a front end loader should I then be looking at something like a John Deere or caterpillar or case?
14 acres with an old ford 4600. Bush hog and light plow use. It is absolutely perfect and I just finished bush hogging today. Edit: if it takes about 1 to 2 seconds to engage my pto after I pull the lever is that bad? It disengages almost instantly with the lever push.
I like his advice but take exception to one bit of it. Selling a good used tractor will hurt you in the wallet where I live in Missouri- maybe it’s different in Alabama. My 45 hp 3 year old Kioti DK45SE hasn’t got a sniff of interest in a month and it’s real low hours, clean as new and regularly serviced. I have it priced at 8K below what I paid for it and I’ve added a 4-1 bucket, remote hydraulics and a canopy. Those extras cost me 4K.
The thing that sucks about these older tractors is u rarely see them with front end loaders. Can u add a front end loader on an older ford 3000 or even one older?
Paul Mussolin seleman Hello I know that everybody was just a really good tractor and not someone else's problems. I have a 1981 Pasquali 986 tractor that my Dad bought new. It has nine forward gears and three reverse. It's four wheel drive with a lockable front differential. The tractor is articulated power steering with two PTO speeds of 540 and 740 RPM and ground speed (the PTO turns the same speed as the wheels). The tractor has two PTO shafts and one turn clock wise and the other counter clock wise. The engine is a one cylinder Lomborghini diesel that is rated at 21 horsepower. The horsepower off the PTO shafts is roughly 18 horsepower. The engine is a one cylinder air cooled and the Texas heat doesn't hurt the engine. Parts are not to bad price wise nor are they hard to find. Theirs a guy in British Columbia Canada who can get them for you and he's very helpful. Pasquali tractors are Italian and are all over the planet but not here in the USA. They pulled out of the US in the early eighties. I have the smallest model they built but the two cylinder model is rated at 38 horsepower. New my tractor was about ten thousand I think. Pasquali tractors are not cheap nor cheaply made and yes the center pivot joint is almost bullet proof. They are Vineyard tractors used in Italy rough terrain and tight spaces. In all the years that I have on this tractor and it has been in my family maintenance was never a problem the diesel engine would always start no matter how cold it was and no you don't need either to start a diesel engine. if you can find one I would recommend buying If you will not be disappointed there's plenty of horsepower and torque that won't quit.
WELL ALL THESE FUCKIN WEB SITE JUST LED IN CIRCLE ,,I CANT FIND THE RIGHT WIRING DIG. FOR MY 3400 C 46 HP ENG. WITHOUT GOING ALL OVER THE F,.,.KING INTERNET... DAMM CAN ANYBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE I CAN GET ONE WITHOUT BUYING THE MANUAL
Cheap used tractor's are a pos 999/1,000 times. Typically a 20 year old tractor with 2,000 hours will sell for half of what they cost new. Good condition Ford 3000's will sell for what they cost new. Ford 8N's sell for WAY more than they cost new and the newest one is 65 years old. Repairing an old diesel tractor is extremely expensive and with every major manufacturer offering 0% for 60 months or more on new units.....I would proceed with extreme caution on anything used.
hog man totally disagree. Petrol a tractors are rubbish and unheard of here. and we're all scrapped here total rubbish Diesel engines will last a lifetime if well maintained. Buy any machinery new doesn't make sense especially if you just cutting a couple of acres with a topper. Smaller tractors are overpriced so most people move the ladder a bit and buy something with 4wd and a cab. A good mid rangetractor to me would be a good fiat 110/90 ford 7840/8340 or john Deere 10 series. Euro spec is better if you can get them
Ferguson 20, not sure what you are totally disagreeing on, I said in a previous post That Gas tractors were junk IMO, btw if you don;t agree with what was said about the pricing we were talking about under 50 hp tractors so you just confirmed what sarahdelano said, if you check Craig'slist or tractor house you will see.
Your comment is far too broad. There are brands and models where cheap used machines are total bargains. As for "Repairing an old diesel tractor is extremely expensive," that is only the case with rare models where parts can be a problem to find. If you want to talk "extremely expensive," that would be buying a brand new machine to be used only occasionally, on a smallholding or in conditions where you don't have to worry about a cheap tractor.
Phantom309 diesel is the way to go. There not expensive to repair and hold value. Our crashed john Deere 6610 premium with seized engine is still worth 7500 and more. Our fiat 110-90 tradition and winner series version will last for ever. Bullet proof and idiot proof. Petrol tractor is completely stupid.
Hello, I am Abdel Fattah from Morocco I sincerely and sincerely want to search for a business partner from England who sends me used farming vehicles And I sell it here in Morocco We only pay the price of transportation. As for customs, we will not pay anything for it, because I have a peasant certificate and here in Morocco the country granted an exemption for those with a peasant certificate
2wd sucks on a small tractor. Also worn tires lose much traction too as small tractors not have weight. Remove those shades so I can look in your eyes to see if you are lying.
Starting any tractor without being in the seat is a no-no....should have known better to make a video with such a huge health and safety issue. FAIL of the highest magnitude!!!!!
never buy a used tractor or skidsteer....you will get burned...people usually do not sell good equipment, unless it is spendy....end of story...worthless video
This is nonsense! People sell good used equipment when they upgrade to new because they are expanding their business (or because they've wanted a new machine with all the "bells and whistles" for years and can finally afford one :) They also sell equipment when they retire or downsize. What you are saying is the equivalent to "never buy a used car because they are all junk"! If you are only going to put, say 50 - 75 hours per year on a machine it just isn't feasible to buy something brand new unless you are genuinely wealthy. Except for a catastrophic failure, you can prioritize repairs and do a little each year. Yes, you have to be careful, and if the price is "too good to be true" you should probably pass on that machine unless you have the time and skill to do a complete rebuild yourself. There are no good "steals" in used equipment, but there are lots of good values.
No nonsense; no bullshit, no salespeople talk. Straight to the point. Excellent video!
I always buy the cheapest running tractor as possible. Theese old tractors can be fixed with the most basic knowledge and tools.
Thanks for sharing your approach to buying tractors! It's great to hear that you've had success with buying affordable machines that can still be easily maintained and repaired. Stay Up-to-Date with the Latest in Agriculture Technology: Subscribe to @AgDealerTV UA-cam Channel Today!
This is the most informative used tractor video I’ve seen on UA-cam.
Thank you!
love hearing old hands talk about what they know, thanks for this!
Thank you for taking the time to explain all of that Mr. Wayne. I am considering on for general use on 8 acres and possible expansion in the future . As a first time buyer this type of information is greatly appreciated.
Good information, but I recommend starting a tractor only when you are sitting in the tractor seat. Starting a tractor while standing in front of the rear tire has resulted in deaths and serious injury. Some of the old tractors will start while in gear. If the tractor immediately starts, when you turn that key, and the tractor is in gear, you can’t move away from that tire fast enough before it rolls over you. Newer tractors have safety features, which old tractors do not have.
Totally right about the resale value. I have owned several tractors in a row and each time I sell them, I sell for more than what I paid 5 years earlier. At least two of the times, I probably got enough extra to also cover all the Repairs and Diesel I had ever put into it. Its like a free tractor. The only downside to selling them is that your next one always ends up costing more than your last one. When you go to buy an old tractor, look it up online and see what the original price was. Most of the time, inflation is higher than depreciation and the used tractor, even 20 or 30 years old, is selling for more than it sold when it was new.
Man, I miss Alabama. Great video. Thanks.
Bought second hand jhon derre 5310 at 40% less price than the original one .
He only used 500 hr . 🔥
I'm in need of it
I need a tractor on sale
I have a Ford 3000 diesel tractor the oil was dirty I changed it and I have run it a good bit and it's still clean
If the oil is black it's bad? Weird I've been a diesel mechanic for quite a while and the oil in any Cummins or cat is black as night 5 minutes after changing it. Diesel rated oil is meant to deal with the soot and it is not a problem.
He meant gas engines only. As you said any diesel engine in any car will have oil as black as can be 1 minute after changing it
I would do a compression test and check the radiator core for scale deposits in case the previous owners ever use water only as a coolant and check the water and power steering pumps for leaks, i would not buy a tractor without a two stage clutch, or a high and low range transmission or power steering, ..a two stage clutch allows you to stop tractor but not the pto it also allows the hydraulic pump to lift the arms when clutch is stopping tractor. I would also recommend one with a front loader which is very useful for way more than scouping .you can use it to load or unload heavy items on a truck, mix cement, lift and move machinery ,lift logs, use as a safe platform to paint or pick fruit, as a snow plow, use it instead of a cart to carry tools in, clear small bushes and prickers , pile and push brush fires , it will even help if you are stuck..
Thx for your tips and experience
This were rally good tips, and let me thank you guys for shearing a little bit of your knowlage with us!!!
The engine oil check method to determine whether or not the tractor has been maintained is old and useless. Sellers can replace the oil prior to advertising it for sale.
They do it all the time on craigslist when selling used cars.
True. But just think about what it says if the out is bad!
Also, coolant has a sickly sweet smell (that's the stuff that'll kill you if you drink it). If there is a decent breeze and you can smell it pretty strong, I would be very cautious. If the air is still and you can only get a faint hint now and then, don't worry too much, but a quick check for leaks wouldn't hurt. If it smells like someones trying to drown you in pancake syrup, don't bother unless you know _exactly_ what it is and how to fix it.
Greetings from Ireland. You know what you're talking about..Great advice for buying a used tractor.
Folks, there's really no such thing as a "cheap" used tractor... There's overpriced, reasonable, and junk. LOL! Seriously though, you often will get what you pay for. However, BUYER BEWARE! Every law of physics applies. If it seems too good to be true, it most likely is! New is NOT always the answer, especially for most normal people without deep pockets.
Personally, I don't want anything that's new, even though I could likely afford it if I wanted to. New means very high monthly payments, and loads of interest due to the sheer expense of a brand new machine. Nowadays, "new" means DEF fluid and lots of terrible emissions controls that are known to kill diesel engine efficiency and reliability. (NO THANKS!!!) New models can mean that a particular model hasn't had its kinks and flaws worked out yet by a prior "owner" if they haven't been in production for several years already. So nah, I'll pass on "NEW". You guys with the deep pockets are more than welcome to take that initial financial "hit" for us average Joe's.
Try to buy a tractor with lower operating hours if possible. That said, keep in mind that hours can, and often do, lie. Hour meters are often broken or have been repaired or replaced after many years of not working. Engines and transmissions can be overhauled and no notable way to know if the hour meter has been changed or left as it was at time of major overhaul. Some tractors (mostly older ones, pre-early 1950's) don't have and never had an hour meter or tachometer for that matter.
The age of a tractor isn't terribly important, it's more about how the machine has been cared for over its lifetime. Hours on a tractor are a lot like miles on an automobile. A good baseline for a worn out diesel tractor engine is 10,000 hours for larger diesels (90+Hp), and about 5,000 to 7,000 hrs for medium to smaller diesels (40 - 90Hp). The compact diesels are even lower before they are typically hosed, somewhere around 3,000 - 5,000hrs (10 - 40Hp) typically.
Look for not a lot of tire wear, cuts, or dry rot in the rubber. Particularly the rear tires, as they are the most expensive to replace. Look for rear rims that aren't rotted, especially around the valve stems, due to Calcium Chloride (liquid ballast) leakage that causes corrosion and rot.
Look for moderate seat wear, and see if the seat is original to the tractor or if a modern $100 "aftermarket special" has been slapped on it to hide the original's severe wear. Very often, new seats are installed by guys who are tractor "flippers". It will usually be accompanied with slapping a fresh coat of paint, a new muffler, sometimes new decals and gauges, to boot. (All depends on how much they want to hide.) Some guys even put on new steering wheels to help hide the age of older, often cracked steering wheels.
Look for 3-point hitch arm pivots to not have excessive wear, and that the 3-point functions properly. Will it lift and hold a load of 500 to 2,000 lbs, on average? (It depends upon the on each individual tractor's lift specifications, of course.) Look for rear swinging drawbar hole to have minimal wear and minimal side-to-side as well as fore-and-aft slop.
Look for minimal PTO wear on the shaft, no PTO seal leakage, and check to see if any slop is in the shaft from side to side when twisting it by hand with tractor not running, of course. If at all possible, ask to hook the PTO up to something like a brush hog, a baler, or any implement at all really that will put a load on the PTO to check its proper operation.
Look for little wear on the clutch and brake pedals. Look for excess slop in the steering components as well as all of the various axle & steering pivot joints, including the axle knuckles, spindles, and wheel bearings. Most front-ends on tractors both 2wd and 4wd are very commonly neglected and overlooked for both regular maintenance and needed repairs until it's far too late.
When looking at loader tractors... the front ends are critical to check over. Beyond that, now you have the loader to look at as well. Try to look for loader tractors that haven't been used hard. (Typically not very easy to do, as most people buy loader tractors to actually USE them.) Look for buckets that aren't twisted or bent. Look for cutting edges on buckets that aren't worn off or mostly worn off. Look for structural cracks in bucket, loader arms, and loader frames. Look for leaks at all hydraulic hoses and valve bodies. Look for leaks at all hydraulic cylinders. Look for moderate downward seepage/leakage when loader is raised 1/2 way up, bucket is fully curled, and engine is shut off - (any movement within a 5 minute or less period means there's something hydraulically wrong). Make sure loader can pick the front of the tractor off of the ground with both the loader arms cylinders AND the bucket tilt cylinders. (That's assuming that they are all the more modern (built within the past 50 years or so) "double-acting" hyd cylinders of course.) Look for all pivot pin points that aren't sloppy, and that the correct pins are still installed.
Back to ALL tractors... Frankly, look for any moving part on the machine, to have been kept lubed properly. Look for machines that don't smoke excessively when running. Look for good, clean coolant. Look for good oil level in crankcase - close to the full mark, but not over. Smell engine oil to be sure there's no fuel in it. Check the water pump for slop and/or any leakage. Check all belts and hoses. Check power steering fluid level (if applicable) and for any steering fluid leaks. Check to see that alternator is charging properly. Check battery (or batteries) for age and corrosion on terminals. Check gauges operation. Check lights. On cab tractors, check doors, windows, glass, hinges, seals, A/C (if applicable), heat, radio, window wipers, vents, roof condition, overall cab interior, and so much more! Check to see if engine fuel filter(s) has (have) been cleaned and/or changed in the last year or so. Check the coolant (radiator fluid) level, and check to see that there's no engine oil mixed in the coolant. Check engine oil to be sure there's no water (coolant) in it. Check hydraulic/transmission oil level, and condition. You don't want "milky" (water infused) hyd/trans oil or very low hyd/trans oil level. Hydraulic/transmission fluid is typically very clear to golden brown when like new or in good clean condition.
On a manual transmission tractor (which is most of them), put transmission in one of the two highest ground speed gears, and see if you can press the brakes and stall the tractor engine out. (You SHOULD be able to stall the engine out.) If it doesn't stall, either the clutch is slipping badly, or the brakes are inadequate. Check the brakes. The pedals should be roughly the same height when pressing each side down to make contact. They also should not drop more than 50% of the pedal's total available travel from the fully raised to fully depressed position. The brakes should make the tractor tires skid when traveling along at a moderate speed and then press clutch in and slam on both brakes together. With hydraulic brakes, hold pressure down on pedals. They should NOT slowly seep/creep downward to the floorboard when holding them on with moderate to strong foot pressure.
If a 4-wheel drive tractor, make sure the 4x4 actually works. Also make sure there are no 'bad" sounds coming from the front end, driveshafts, or transfer case when it is engaged and in operation. Make sure the MFWD isn't leaking oil from the front spindles, axle tubes, or outboard wheel planetaries.
There's just soooo much to look at on any used piece of equipment. Enough to give many folks a big headache. LOL At least I've begun to scratch the surface with what I've written here folks!
Use some paragraphs boss lol
+James Avery :
Done, & thanks for the heads-up. Not sure why it smeared everything I wrote together when I originally posted what I wrote. I know I was using my g/f's tablet instead of my laptop/PC when I posted originally.
Anyhow, I went through quickly and "re-paragraphed" (Is that even a word? - LOL) it quickly with my laptop after being notified by your response. Hopefully it's easier to read now.
Much better. Without paragraphs its easy to get lost in the wording is all
You're welcome. Yeah, I actually get headaches from reading long blurbs like that sometimes. LOL
Thanks for your insight it's so much helpful especially when you are a first time buyer/owner....
This man knows about tractors
Oil can be deceiving. Why would anyone sell their tractor without changing the oil, It seems that people think the tractor is in good shape if the oil is clean. Is that Ford a cheap tractor? What do they go for? I would guess about $3800? That seems enough considering someone bought that 35 hp tractor for about $6500 new in 1975. A barely running 44 massey goes for $1500+ around here. I doubt there are any cheap tractors out there.
$6,500 in 1975 equals around $32,000.00 in 2019 dollars, therefore buying one today for $3.800.00 means your paying around 11 % of what it cost new.......apples to apples not apples to oranges always works best.....
Thanks for posting as a newbie very much appreciated
2-4k for a 50 year old tractor isn't bad. Its about what they cost new 50 years ago. They don't loose value.
You can find one in bad shape for 850 take it home rebuild it and spend 2k on parts and have a 3k dollar tractor, or find one someone took care of for 2-5k buy it and use it but that's cheap compared to buying a brand new import tractor.
And the old 1940's tractor 70+ years old has been dragged through the mudd. Your 2018 gmc, or ford truck won't be around in 70 years but that dam tractor will still be pulling mud.
Thats if you didn't store the truck in a controled space garage parked for 70 years.
Honestly and you have to think about this how many modern cars will still be around in 50 years? Because anything built pre 1970 has a good chance, anything after 1970 not so much. Automobiles got more complex, and cheaper metal the older a car is the better built it was same with just about anything.
You can pick up a wood plane your great great grandfather used to earn a living and use it today if it was taken care of or refurbished.
Your not going to be able to do that with a lot of today's brand tools.
Sure some you will. If you buy them off a truck.
I have traded for a lot of tractors just to paint and turn for a $ and to use. The Ford 3000 for any small plot is hard to beat. Probably the easiest to sell as well.
John Deere 4030 and Massey Ferguson 35 or Massey Ferguson 135 are also good ones for small farms.
And Theres so many of them around, that you can still find spare parts.
Especially for the Massey Fergusons, the darn thing (and it's derivatives) sold in the millions across the world.
But yes, I agree, the Ford 3000 and 4000-series were very popular small tractors as well.
I am looking for good used tractor
The early Ford tractors are getting really hard to find, unless you live in the USA.
It just didn't have the same market penetration worldwide, as the Massey Ferguson did.
Marc, our Extension Specialist says "I have read that the 8N is the best selling tractor of all time. Is it to show or work? If price and condition are equal and you want to use it - 8N. They were (are) great tractors."
The equivalent to the Ford 3000 would probably be the Massey Ferguson 35 or 135, maybe even a MF 235 ?
And if you live in the US, you may also look into the John Deere 4030, another very popular small tractor.
Mind you, if you want to get a frontloader, pretty much all old tractors tend to be bad for that.
Hydraulics have improved quite a bit over the years, and also, the oil pump that is the heart of the system tends to wear out eventually, hampering performance significantly
On the other hand, those older tractors have all sorts of nostalgia to them.
For that, it's really the buyer that is important, not the tractor - Buy the memories and nostalgia that goes with them!
If your dad had an old Ford 3000, get one, if he had a Massey, get one of those instead.
My dad had a Volvo & Bolinder-Munktell BM-350 tractor, which is getting pretty darn rare, even here in Scandinavia!
As for moving snow, get one of those old rear mounted, three-point-hitch & PTO driven, snowblowers.
Yes, you will have to reverse around throwing snow all over the place, but they're cheap and effective.
Edit :
As for the hours, that can be hard to say, as it depends on how well it has been treated, as well on how well it has been rebuild.
However, a good solid advice on that, would be to visit a forum for hobbyists of the particular type of tractor.
They usually know those tractors inside out, and can tell you exactly what to watch out for.
Also, most tractors from back then were almost entirely gasoline.
Grew up running our Minneapolis Moline RT.
It was a good tractor. My Dad completely rebuilt it when he got it.
This was really informative. Thanks so much for posting this!
I have found that 50-75 HP tractors often sell for less than the smaller ones because there are so many people with 5-10 acre tracts, I prefer a larger tractor and work is easy
Great video and very informative. Thanks for the lesson. Much needed information.
I have a John Deere 790 tractor which I got in 2003 new, and love it. The tractor don't get used much and have been primarily used with the brush hog, box blade, and landscaping rake. I have other equipment for it, but they have not been used on it that much. I have never worked on old tractors and the two people I operated a tractor for while working for them had new tractors (Massey Ferguson, and Ford). When I looked for one for my own use, I made sure that it was new since I had no experience with working on them, and didn't want to deal with the problems associated with older tractors starting off.
Howdy
Is it weird to want to have a 🚜 just for fun, not for farm work? Like a going to town rig? 🤔
Wow, small world. Hello from limestone county.
Thanks so much for the tips and the knowledge you have given
That was very educational instruction, thank you.
I have question 9000$ how big tractor with loader I can get,a good,used clean tractor,, high horsepower
Bought a 52 ford 8n, runs good but crankcase and hydraulic oil look like molasses,haven't been changed in years.
Świadczy to o tym że do oleju dostała się woda. Założyć nowe uszczelnienia wymienić olej i jeździć nim dalej. Pozdrawiam.
Very impressive. Thanks
Merry Christmas. I have a question there is a Ford 8340 4 × 4 but there is a problem with the hydraulic pump First according to add the Wheels 70% 4 × 4 Not working Could be pump delay or Solonid is it a good deal or not is it easy to fix any advice
What about the 3speed pto with 6 spline that spins 540-750-1000
On some tractors you can change the pto shaft from 540 to 1000 or vice versa. I'm not sure if you can with the ford but I know it's possible with John Deere's.
Many tractors have dual speed pto boxes . You have to get an adapter if you have an implement requiring a different spline count. Most are gonna be 6 spline reguardless now days because most tractors have the ability to run 540 or 1000 rpm on the pto
This guy has done this so long, he really can't adopt the perspective of the typical person buying a cheap tractor. You need to look deeper into the condition of a used tractor than is presented here. My recommendation is to have a mechanic look it over.
the best way is to just run it for 3 or 4 hours before you buy it if you know what problems to look for
I heard no mention of the engines being diesel or gas? Those seem to be agriculture tractors? I would need a backhoe and a front end loader should I then be looking at something like a John Deere or caterpillar or case?
14 acres with an old ford 4600. Bush hog and light plow use. It is absolutely perfect and I just finished bush hogging today.
Edit: if it takes about 1 to 2 seconds to engage my pto after I pull the lever is that bad? It disengages almost instantly with the lever push.
The ford 3000 should be 47.5 h.p i think they are called 48 hp tractors i have a 3000 and love it .
nice accent, and beautiful tractors, as well as good information
Very good senseable advise.
Smell the oil on the dip stick. Old oil has fuel smell to it.
Charles Mantia old oil is black no need to smell
trevor+ diesel engine oil goes black real fast so hours used is all that matters, change the oil according to spec, all is good
I like his advice but take exception to one bit of it. Selling a good used tractor will hurt you in the wallet where I live in Missouri- maybe it’s different in Alabama. My 45 hp 3 year old Kioti DK45SE hasn’t got a sniff of interest in a month and it’s real low hours, clean as new and regularly serviced. I have it priced at 8K below what I paid for it and I’ve added a 4-1 bucket, remote hydraulics and a canopy. Those extras cost me 4K.
Thank you. Good basic info; very useful.
Those hands could snap someone in half!
what's better Ferrari 95 3C or Lamborghini 550 DT? Very nice tractor is Porsche N 309, but its to old for me. So Ferrari or Lamborghini?
How much Ford 3000 price for a small farmers maasai in Tanzania
The thing that sucks about these older tractors is u rarely see them with front end loaders. Can u add a front end loader on an older ford 3000 or even one older?
Koch 40 sure you can put a loader on any tractor just depends on how much you want to spend...
When starting , put your meat in the seat not under tire.
Outstanding video
Beautiful machine
Where's a good place to look for a used tractor?
some great tips
Never hear about Oliver, Allis Chalmers, Massey Harris ect.
Yes thanks for the videyo!!!
Good information 👍
My question is this, What size and price would be good for an intro used tractor for 1 acre?
A massey 35, 65, 135 and or a ford 2000 abd 3000 would be good
What model is the second tractor, the International?
Thanks
I love driving a tractor.
You just violated a safety rule you not unseat when you started it
Always buy a little bit more of a tractor then you need.
Amen brother.
do you have a Belarus tractor?
I like one but olsa I need to know how much per one machine
Paul Mussolin seleman Hello I know that everybody was just a really good tractor and not someone else's problems. I have a 1981 Pasquali 986 tractor that my Dad bought new. It has nine forward gears and three reverse. It's four wheel drive with a lockable front differential. The tractor is articulated power steering with two PTO speeds of 540 and 740 RPM and ground speed (the PTO turns the same speed as the wheels). The tractor has two PTO shafts and one turn clock wise and the other counter clock wise. The engine is a one cylinder Lomborghini diesel that is rated at 21 horsepower. The horsepower off the PTO shafts is roughly 18 horsepower. The engine is a one cylinder air cooled and the Texas heat doesn't hurt the engine. Parts are not to bad price wise nor are they hard to find. Theirs a guy in British Columbia Canada who can get them for you and he's very helpful. Pasquali tractors are Italian and are all over the planet but not here in the USA. They pulled out of the US in the early eighties. I have the smallest model they built but the two cylinder model is rated at 38 horsepower. New my tractor was about ten thousand I think. Pasquali tractors are not cheap nor cheaply made and yes the center pivot joint is almost bullet proof. They are Vineyard tractors used in Italy rough terrain and tight spaces. In all the years that I have on this tractor and it has been in my family maintenance was never a problem the diesel engine would always start no matter how cold it was and no you don't need either to start a diesel engine. if you can find one I would recommend buying If you will not be disappointed there's plenty of horsepower and torque that won't quit.
am interested in buying used tractors am from Nigeria contact me via hilalmaisugar@gmail.com
am interested in buying used tractors am from Nigeria contact me via hilalmaisugar@gmail.com
am interested in buying used tractors am from Nigeria contact me via hilalmaisugar@gmail.com
am interested in buying used tractors am from Nigeria contact me via hilalmaisugar@gmail.com
am from kenya kind of looking for tractor
_g
how can I get it I'm in kenya
Check with Osamabama, he likely has connections there.
He should have spoken about gas vs diesel tractors
nice broo
A ford 3000 is 48 hp
I want to be a farmer too
I think maybe I need some land
The have pto adapters
I bought an antique ford 9n. I only gave 63,000 for it. It runs good too.
What are the prices of used tractor. My organisation would like to buy
On seat
OMG, I'm short of words ⬆️⬆️ he keep to his promise and he never fails, give a try, here's my dream car deliver to me.....
WELL ALL THESE FUCKIN WEB SITE JUST LED IN CIRCLE ,,I CANT FIND THE RIGHT WIRING DIG. FOR MY 3400 C 46 HP ENG. WITHOUT GOING ALL OVER THE F,.,.KING INTERNET... DAMM CAN ANYBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE I CAN GET ONE WITHOUT BUYING THE MANUAL
it is 47 hp
It is getting more difficult to find cheap used tractors.
I sell used tractors how do we reach you for more information.
I have a blue 1700 Ford diesel tractor can anyone tell me a year and maybe the value.
Cheap used tractor's are a pos 999/1,000 times. Typically a 20 year old tractor with 2,000 hours will sell for half of what they cost new. Good condition Ford 3000's will sell for what they cost new. Ford 8N's sell for WAY more than they cost new and the newest one is 65 years old. Repairing an old diesel tractor is extremely expensive and with every major manufacturer offering 0% for 60 months or more on new units.....I would proceed with extreme caution on anything used.
I totally agree!!
hog man totally disagree. Petrol a tractors are rubbish and unheard of here. and we're all scrapped here total rubbish Diesel engines will last a lifetime if well maintained. Buy any machinery new doesn't make sense especially if you just cutting a couple of acres with a topper.
Smaller tractors are overpriced so most people move the ladder a bit and buy something with 4wd and a cab. A good mid rangetractor to me would be a good fiat 110/90 ford 7840/8340 or john Deere 10 series. Euro spec is better if you can get them
Ferguson 20, not sure what you are totally disagreeing on, I said in a previous post That Gas tractors were junk IMO, btw if you don;t agree with what was said about the pricing we were talking about under 50 hp tractors so you just confirmed what sarahdelano said, if you check Craig'slist or tractor house you will see.
Your comment is far too broad. There are brands and models where cheap used machines are total bargains. As for "Repairing an old diesel tractor is extremely expensive," that is only the case with rare models where parts can be a problem to find. If you want to talk "extremely expensive," that would be buying a brand new machine to be used only occasionally, on a smallholding or in conditions where you don't have to worry about a cheap tractor.
Phantom309 diesel is the way to go. There not expensive to repair and hold value. Our crashed john Deere 6610 premium with seized engine is still worth 7500 and more. Our fiat 110-90 tradition and winner series version will last for ever. Bullet proof and idiot proof. Petrol tractor is completely stupid.
I live close to him
See Stoney ridge farmer
Why would you bush hog 100 acres
Oh hi john Herbert haha
Hello, I am Abdel Fattah from Morocco I sincerely and sincerely want to search for a business partner from England who sends me used farming vehicles And I sell it here in Morocco We only pay the price of transportation. As for customs, we will not pay anything for it, because I have a peasant certificate and here in Morocco the country granted an exemption for those with a peasant certificate
Hi lakhdar. Email me on sgwelo@yahoo.com
Anyone learn anything?
Ca
Thanks mr and if i have $2000 i can gate used tractor from am from Tanzania
call me
2wd sucks on a small tractor. Also worn tires lose much traction too as small tractors not have weight. Remove those shades so I can look in your eyes to see if you are lying.
Ya gotta make sure ya dont buy no gay tractor ...
Starting any tractor without being in the seat is a no-no....should have known better to make a video with such a huge health and safety issue. FAIL of the highest magnitude!!!!!
never buy a used tractor or skidsteer....you will get burned...people usually do not sell good equipment, unless it is spendy....end of story...worthless video
This is nonsense! People sell good used equipment when they upgrade to new because they are expanding their business (or because they've wanted a new machine with all the "bells and whistles" for years and can finally afford one :) They also sell equipment when they retire or downsize. What you are saying is the equivalent to "never buy a used car because they are all junk"! If you are only going to put, say 50 - 75 hours per year on a machine it just isn't feasible to buy something brand new unless you are genuinely wealthy. Except for a catastrophic failure, you can prioritize repairs and do a little each year. Yes, you have to be careful, and if the price is "too good to be true" you should probably pass on that machine unless you have the time and skill to do a complete rebuild yourself. There are no good "steals" in used equipment, but there are lots of good values.
OMG, I'm short of words ⬆️⬆️ he keep to his promise and he never fails, give a try, here's my dream car deliver to me.....
OMG, I'm short of words ⬆️⬆️ he keep to his promise and he never fails, give a try, here's my dream car deliver to me.....