Chevy Astro Van Power Door Lock Actuator Repair
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2017
- Here's a video demonstrating how to replace a broken power door lock actuator in a Chevy Astro van. I imagine the repair is similar for other vehicles.
I am not a mechanic but like to attempt my own repairs. I may over-explain things in this video but hopefully it helps you complete your own repair and save some $$.
Thanks to everyone else that has posted Astro Van repair videos, they've come in handy more than a few times! - Авто та транспорт
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO I HAVE A SAFARY AND HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM BUT NOW I KNOW WHAT IT IS , WITH YOUR VIDEO FOR SURE I WILL FIX IT
I wonder why you riveted the actuator back on when it came with threaded tabs and probably came with the screws. Maybe you prefer to use rivets?
Very helpful!! I have a 2001 GMC Safari SLE, which is basically the exact same as your Astro van. I need to replace the driver side door lock actuator as well. Thanks for making the video.
Got to give you creds for working in the cold:) Great instructions.
Exceptionally fine job!
Such an informative video!
Thanks for the video. I did find that there is a small pop out piece around the door handle that makes it easier to remove and replace. I gave up drilling and used up a couple of cone grinders with my Dremel.Now I need to replace the actuator on the slider.
Thanks Billinor. The pop out piece is a good suggestion, I think I was afraid to break it and didn't bother popping it out. I was having difficulty with my sliding door lock not working too. I removed the panel and lubricated the lock and components and cleaned the copper connections that power the lock, things worked fine after that without having to replace anything. Have a look along the sliding door frame just behind the passenger seat; you'll see an electrical lead that connects to another lead when the sliding door is closed; this powers the lock; if these connections are corroded, look up online how to clean corrosion off copper using vinigar and baking soda; once the connections are clean, the lock might work again. Good luck!
Well done, very informative
Thank you for the Video.
Thanks for sharing, I have 2 Safari's ('98 and '03) that need the same attention... your video has been a great help brother :)
You're welcome. Good luck with the repair!
super helpful thanks
nice job bro
`Thank you!
Great video,would it be the same way for the rear back door? I have the barn doors on my 03 astro. thanks
I'm guessing it's very similar for the back door although I haven't done the repair myself. I did have to open the back door up to repair some rust. Just undo all the screws that go around the door and use a panel popper screwdriver to pry the plastic moulding off the metal door frame. You'll then need to pull off the plastic speaker cover so you can remove the carpet-like piece from the door. Next peel back the moisture barrier and take a look inside. It's likely the same part, and things really aren't too complicated at the back door. Good luck!
Thanks for that
My 2003 astro van doesn't even try to open no sound nothing just the side door and the rear doors open at double click at the remote. But any of the front doors opens what can be the problem?
Did you only have issues with this one door lock? I'm asking because it seems like I have a system wide issue where they all try and fail to lock or unlock all the way unless I'm using the key. Great video, btw.
Hi Foxtatic T. My driver side door lock wouldn't really work at all, so I replaced it as in the video. I also had some issues with the sliding door (see my response to Billnor below). I removed the panel and lubricated the components and also cleaned the copper connectors that power the sliding door lock. I'm not sure how to solve the issue if it's happening in all locks of your van. Perhaps there isn't enough power being fed to the actuators? Good luck with your repair.
Foxtatic T in your case I think you need to wd40 the joints behind the covers. Good luck.
If all your locks failed at the same time it’s probably a blown fuse. You can check in the owners manual to see which fuse controls the door locks
mine systematically all failed with in 6 months of each other, the only one functioning is the slider. I removed the driver side to see if a little finagling would get it working. I removed the screws that hold the bracket to the body of the actuator. Unfortunately that also holds the metal motor housing, so when the cover was removed, boing, the brushes and spring jumped out, lost one spring and one brush. One thing I did notice was that when manipulating the plunger, that some times it worked smooth and sometimes it hung up and jammed. This maybe the problem with these units. The motor appears to spin a gear and the gear runs a toothed rod up and down. I wouldn't be surprised if the gears are worn or chipped/broken. The actuator if a sealed piece of two plastic pieces either glued or welded together, I think I'll take a stab at disassembling. I'm banking on the teeth inside being jacked up, the actuator plunger is plastic. As far as them all going to shite in close time, it actually makes sense because every time you use your key fob to open your doors, all the locks get activated except for the back door, which requires a second pressing of the button. So there all getting similar wear.
I was wondering, is there a way to use a couple of threaded screws from the inside out and then use nuts to tight it and cut the remaining of the screws flush, I'm just saying If I don't have a rivet gun
I imagine this would work. Some other users have suggested using screws instead of rivets. When I ordered the part it didn't come with screws, so I used rivets. I think as long as it is fastened tight it should work. Good luck!
There are threaded tabs on the new one. M6 threads I believe. No need for a nut.
Door handle screws are T25 size torx bit
What size rivet did u use?
I used the rivets that came with the part. They were size 3.2 although they were just big enough. I would maybe go up to a size 4.0.
Really, you ask about rivet size he used??? Seriously, you didn't see the J nuts that were clearly pre installed by the manufacturer on the actuator and threaded for bolts "either" no one watching this video prior has no business"trying" to fix anything. All positive comments, and not one noticed he had no idea what he was doing, or common sense to figure it out...
Part didn't ship with the bolts that fit the nuts which attach to the bracket but did ship with rivets so I don't think its an obvious solution to use bolts if it requires a trip to a hardware store vs just rivetting back in place if you already own a rivet tool.
Link of the product plz
Where did the bracket come from?
The bracket came with the replacement actuator.
You connect to the linkage before you rivet it.
How do you diagnose that the problem was actually the actuator and not anything else that could cause it to not work
Checkout astrosafari.com and search for power locks.
There a few things that can go wrong namely
1) seized/gummed-up lock parts which can be cleaned and lubed
2) blown fuse / wiring issue
3) not enough voltage to actuator
4) failed actuator
Burnt out actuator seems to be the most common issue just due to age of the units.
$36 on Summit. $27 on eBay. Aftermarket. AC Delco is a bit more.
Dorman 746-014
Looks to me like you could have used sheet metal screws to install, that's the purpose of the speed nuts on the bracket, no?
Bracket nuts are threaded for a specific bolt size and bolts are not included with the part. Self-tapping sheet metal screws would have to be relatively wide diameter (like 1/4" or more) and very short total length to not eat into the part behind the bracket (like 1/2" depth).
I have to go to the hardware store for dry lube so will try to find the bolt size that fits the nut for my particular part (SKP SKDLA1) and update here afterwards.
@@m.merriman7692 I did my driver side recently, I used a threaded speed nut with machine screws, worked great! Yup, used 1/4 x 1/2.
For the threaded speed nuts that shipped with my part (SKP SKDLA1) it was an M6-1.00 (x 12 or x 16) bolt that matched the threads and depth. Just an FYI for anybody in the future.
You could definitely use another speednut & bolt combo than the providee ones which may be cheaper/easier to find but they'd need to conform to the measurements in my earlier comment. GLTA
Canadian?
Yep! What gave it away? The accent, the snow, or the constant apologizing for the bad camera work?
D. All of the above. (I'm from Michigan, I know my northern neighbors haha)
I knew it because of your Mastercraft drill bits 😂 I am a huge fans of Canadian Tire tools
You didn't repair anything. You replaced the actuator. Misleading title
Doing the work and replacing it is a repair. What did you expect him to do? Open the machinery inside and fix it? He's not a mechanical engineer you lizard brain lmao.