Good to see more items crossed off (even if there are a couple added). It looks to me like those choke cables are actually throttle cables, because they are far too long (the only difference between choke and throttle cables is the length). The whole choke cable assembly should be routed up behind the carbs, in front of the air box, and fit easily in that space with a natural curve. The throttle cables on mine are the original 1 into 2 set up, and at the top end it passes through a hole in the right hand headlamp bracket, lined with a grommet, before going to the (single) twistgrip. I'm not sure if your twin cables would fit through there, though. I actually did away with the choke mechanism on mine several years ago because I never needed to use it, even in the coldest weather, but I understand you wanting to keep that as original as possible (I still kept all the bits, in case a future owner wants to return it to standard, along with all the other original parts I've upgraded). You may find clutch operation is smoother if you run the cable down alongside the top tube, rather than through the grommet in the gusset - it gives a gentler curve to it. The original terminals on the ignition switch wires are the same as you have there, and they do fit in the boot, although "flag" terminals may be a sensible upgrade, as you suggest. You may find you can salvage that damaged thread with a triangular precision file, if necessary taking the chewed up first pitch back completely flat and cleaning up the new leading edge. There would be plenty of good thread left, and I've had success with that technique many times, over many decades as a mechanic. Good luck with the next stage.
Many thanks Rick. Yes I agree choke cables totally too long but I've managed to route them OK I think and as you say I don't think they'll get much use! I haven't got a thread file unfortunately but have found a good second hand top nut for cheaper so that's on the way.
Angus, you should be able to get a thread file to clean up the top nut. They are an invaluable tool for cleaning threads and fix the problem of rags and dirt in the threads. Any hardware store should have them and all you need to know is if it is for a BSF/BSW thread (45 degree pitch), UNF/UNC/metric thread (60degree pitch)
Thank you @alexander and @howard for the info and clarification. I don’t have a thread file and the more I look closely at the top nut the worse it is so I’ve ordered an original used one for less than the price of a file. I did put the two threads together for comparison and the thread form appears correct - it’s just that the thread cutter has chattered or was blunt probably although I’m no engineer and don’t know one end of a lathe from another. Thanks both.
Good botch for the fork top/instrument mounts, Angus. That original seat pan doesn't look too bad. I've seen worse! A quick blast and powder coat would bring it back to pristine. Maybe buying the whole caboodle - pan, foam, cover - was the cheaper option and, if it fitted well, all is fine and dandy. Hang onto the original pan though. That could be part of your pension! I deleted a lengthy comment to do with the valve clearances on the 750s because, well, I wasn't happy with it. As you say, it is counterintuitive to have an 8 thou clearance on the, cooler, inlet side and a 6 thou clearance on the, hotter, exhaust side. By comparison, the 650s ran 2 thou inlet and 4 thou exhaust. 8 thou is quite a large clearance, especially on the 'cool' side of the engine! In my deleted comment I waffled on about cam forms and cam follower radii. It was all basically to do with how Triumph built a 750 and then had to start detuning it. I think the specified, gaping, inlet tappet clearance was the final stage of that detune - later lift, shorter duration, earlier closing etc. It certainly produced a lot more torque than the 650s but I know which one would arrive at the Plug And Moat first. I'm sure some bright spark on here will tell me I'm wrong 😉
Hi Dave. Yes the instrument mounts are a "practical" modification under the circumstances - it sounds much better than botch. We decided to go down the new seat route as we found one available and it saved a ton of work. We are going to sell off surplus parts such as original carbs and seat with seat cover. Re the valve clearances, I've read up articles on this and have reached the same conclusion as you describe based upon the different cam of the 750 to the 650. Anyhow I'm no engineer so likewise am ready to be enlightened further.
An amazing project, stunning work.
Too kind Mac - stunning not - but thank you.
Still causing you a lot of headaches due to poor quality aftermarket spares and previous poor maintenance/repairs....you have the patience of a saint.
It’s hours and hours of endless fun Howard. I think.
Poor old Greg, he must be hemorrhaging money . But he's safe in the knowledge it's being done properly. It looks like new. Great job Angus as usual
@@richardbartlett6932 with these type of projects money doesn't come into the equation if you want it right
Greg wants it done properly so no issue 👍. It looks good but not quite like new but most kind of you.
Looking good ,progress is stil being made.
Yes geting there slowly Matt. Thanks for the kind comment.
Good to see more items crossed off (even if there are a couple added).
It looks to me like those choke cables are actually throttle cables, because they are far too long (the only difference between choke and throttle cables is the length). The whole choke cable assembly should be routed up behind the carbs, in front of the air box, and fit easily in that space with a natural curve.
The throttle cables on mine are the original 1 into 2 set up, and at the top end it passes through a hole in the right hand headlamp bracket, lined with a grommet, before going to the (single) twistgrip. I'm not sure if your twin cables would fit through there, though.
I actually did away with the choke mechanism on mine several years ago because I never needed to use it, even in the coldest weather, but I understand you wanting to keep that as original as possible (I still kept all the bits, in case a future owner wants to return it to standard, along with all the other original parts I've upgraded).
You may find clutch operation is smoother if you run the cable down alongside the top tube, rather than through the grommet in the gusset - it gives a gentler curve to it.
The original terminals on the ignition switch wires are the same as you have there, and they do fit in the boot, although "flag" terminals may be a sensible upgrade, as you suggest.
You may find you can salvage that damaged thread with a triangular precision file, if necessary taking the chewed up first pitch back completely flat and cleaning up the new leading edge. There would be plenty of good thread left, and I've had success with that technique many times, over many decades as a mechanic.
Good luck with the next stage.
Many thanks Rick. Yes I agree choke cables totally too long but I've managed to route them OK I think and as you say I don't think they'll get much use! I haven't got a thread file unfortunately but have found a good second hand top nut for cheaper so that's on the way.
Angus, you should be able to get a thread file to clean up the top nut. They are an invaluable tool for cleaning threads and fix the problem of rags and dirt in the threads. Any hardware store should have them and all you need to know is if it is for a BSF/BSW thread (45 degree pitch), UNF/UNC/metric thread (60degree pitch)
You are right about the UNF/UNC/Metric thread forms being 60 degrees angle but BSF/BSW are 55 degree inclusive angle thread form not 45 degree.
@@howardosborne8647 sorry, my mistake its some fifty years since I needed to look that angle up and I normally use the gauges I made as an apprentice
I suggest he puts the two threads together one on top to see if he can see any irregularities..
Thank you @alexander and @howard for the info and clarification. I don’t have a thread file and the more I look closely at the top nut the worse it is so I’ve ordered an original used one for less than the price of a file. I did put the two threads together for comparison and the thread form appears correct - it’s just that the thread cutter has chattered or was blunt probably although I’m no engineer and don’t know one end of a lathe from another. Thanks both.
@@BSAPowerSet that's what the thread file is supposed to rectify. They are used extensively in engineering
Good botch for the fork top/instrument mounts, Angus. That original seat pan doesn't look too bad. I've seen worse! A quick blast and powder coat would bring it back to pristine. Maybe buying the whole caboodle - pan, foam, cover - was the cheaper option and, if it fitted well, all is fine and dandy. Hang onto the original pan though. That could be part of your pension!
I deleted a lengthy comment to do with the valve clearances on the 750s because, well, I wasn't happy with it. As you say, it is
counterintuitive to have an 8 thou clearance on the, cooler, inlet side and a 6 thou clearance on the, hotter, exhaust side. By comparison, the 650s ran 2 thou inlet and 4 thou exhaust. 8 thou is quite a large clearance, especially on the 'cool' side of the engine!
In my deleted comment I waffled on about cam forms and cam follower radii. It was all basically to do with how Triumph built a 750 and then had to start detuning it. I think the specified, gaping, inlet tappet clearance was the final stage of that detune - later lift, shorter duration, earlier closing etc. It certainly produced a lot more torque than the 650s but I know which one would arrive at the Plug And Moat first.
I'm sure some bright spark on here will tell me I'm wrong 😉
Hi Dave. Yes the instrument mounts are a "practical" modification under the circumstances - it sounds much better than botch. We decided to go down the new seat route as we found one available and it saved a ton of work. We are going to sell off surplus parts such as original carbs and seat with seat cover. Re the valve clearances, I've read up articles on this and have reached the same conclusion as you describe based upon the different cam of the 750 to the 650. Anyhow I'm no engineer so likewise am ready to be enlightened further.