Mopar A-Body Master Cylinder Swap: Pirate Jack Disk Brake Conversion Part 3
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This is Part 3 in the series of swapping from front drum to disk brakes on my 1967 Dodge Dart. Changing the master cylinder is critical, and it can be a whole lot of not-fun. Go into the job expecting to have to replace your hard lines and busting your knuckles and at least you won't be disappointed. Also, the kit did not come with every last piece needed - you'll need a few hardware odds and ends (nuts, o-rings) so be aware. I also needed primer and paint, but hopefully you have better luck.
Parts
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Knipex Pliers: amzn.to/2Qvki8x
Brake Lines: www.sstubes.co...
O-Rings: amzn.to/3tuGUVb
Great work, these are the types of projects we all dread. Anything that requires climbing under the dash is just torture. I’ll be back underneath mine soon enough. Thanks for reminding me of the hell that awaits.
Excellent video you gave all the information I needed thanks, great job.
Thank you for posting all the disk brake conversion videos. You have helped me complete my install! Amazing guide and very thorough.
Glad you found them useful.
Thanks so much for this crystal clear walk through! This was a huge help.
That rod is a nightmare
Next time use the brake pedal to pull the push rod out.
Leave the master cylinder bolted up, remove the brake switch inside the car, and just pull up on the brake pedal.
The push rod will pop right out. Then remove the push rod bolt. Plus the push rod grommet is important, and readily available.
Get the right part, do the job right. We are talking brakes after all, stopping is good.
I've never had great luck using the pedal to pull the rod, but it's certainly worth trying for anyone watching. It also looks like, at least as of right now, Doctor Diff carries the grommet.
www.doctordiff.com/manual-brake-push-rod-retainer-bushing-clip-rubber-grommet.html
@@YoshimoshiGarage All that's telling me is you've never tried it. Anybody that has, would never do it any other way. Happy Moparing.
I did this myself when realizing how hard it was to get that bolt out I was like ... what if I pull this pedal back - "pop" so easy.
@@YoshimoshiGarage I've looked at that grommet before at it looks a lot like a piece of vacuum hose. They usually come with a new M/Cyl.
I am looking for the master kit you ordered. Any help would be awesome. Great video.
This is very helpful getting the rod out. If you are converting all four to disk brakes do you need to change the proportioning valve?
I've not done 4 drums to 4 disks. I'd certainly try it first without swapping the proportioning valve to see if they're balanced.
station-wagons & police cars , had 11.83” rotors .
pin type , calliper adaptor was Chrysler part #3880557 ,…
76-78 b-body
Gran Fury , Royal Monaco , Coronet
the 11.75 replacement rotor is dirt cheap , so like the police dept. , use metallic pads .
A long time ago in the early '90's I converted a '71 Satellite with 10" manual drums to power disc with new parts using the 'Ehrenberg' Mopar Action article and used the rotors (new) for a 'B' Dodge van. I think they're the same s cop car rotors. The only junkyard parts I used were the knuckles and caliper adapters. I got the Knuckles from a mid '70's A body. The adapters came from a '75 or '76 or '77 Cordoba I think. The parts were pretty cheap. Back then everything was still at the parts stores. I didn't have 'core' calipers but I think it was only $10 ea for the charge. A few years later they didn't want any core charge. I think it only cost me maybe $140 for that using all new parts (hoses, pads, calipers, Master Cyl, hardware, bearings etc) Except for the adapters and knuckles I used EVERYTHING new.
How would my install be different if I'm working with a 63 that has the single jar type master cylinder still? Thanks for the great video.
It'll be the same. You'll have double lines to the proportioning valve, then it divides to the front and rear.
Do you have part #s for brake lines? I need for my 67 dart gt
I believe I made the hard lines for that one myself, though if I had to do it again, I'd probably look at Fine Lines to see if they have them pre-bent. If you mean the hoses at the wheel, those came with the kit.
@@YoshimoshiGarage in the video I thought it said you ordered the hard lines pre bent. I'll try finelines. Thanks!
Can you use the pedal, while MC is still bolted to car, to pull the pushrod out?
Some people have success doing it that way. I definitely didn't.
@@YoshimoshiGarage, sorry to hear that. I was hoping for a different answer. I will be replacing mine soon enough and appreciate the time you took to make this fine tutorial. Well done, sir.
It's worth trying it first, but mine really didn't want to come out
I'm looking at this kit for a 69 Barracuda - why did you forgo the power brake option?
The car was manual brakes to start with. Adding a brake booster takes up a lot of space and makes working on things that much harder.
I’v done a disc brake conversion on my 67 Barracuda, I needed a new master cylinder to finish the job, just looking at it doesn’t seem to be the right one. Which master cylinder did you go with? Can you possibly drop a link? Any help definitely does just that. Thanks
I did a drum to disc conversion and this was the master cylinder that came with the kit. The swap also requires changing the proportioning valve to either an original disc valve or an adjustable (which the kit came with). This is part of the Pirate jack kit, but if I were to order just a master cylinder, a 1974-ish Dart master cylinder (Raybestos MC36412, front disc, rear drum, manual brakes, 4-bolt flange) would almost certainly be the same.
@@YoshimoshiGarage awesome, thank you this will most definitely help me 🤙🏼
Oh, man... You addressed the wire nut before I had a chance to mention it.
And that's not even close to being the sketchiest part of the wiring on this car.
Have you drove it with the manual discs? I'm going to convert my 67 and can't decide if I want stay manual or go power.
Yes. It's not power, but waaaaay better than it was with manual drums all around.
Is the pedal closer to the floor than it was with the drum brakes?
@@mustacherides I didn't measure a before and after, but if it's closer, it's not enough to be noticeable.
Excellent and informative. Horrible design getting the master cylinder and push rod out. I have never had so much trouble removing one.My old International has a clevis pin you push in one side and a washer and cotter pin on the other side. Takes about 1 minute. And the push rod comes right out after you remove the circlip.
Yes, it's a horrible design. I've never pulled one that came out easy.
@@YoshimoshiGarage Do you know what I did instead of putting the locking nut back on where it connects with the brake pedal ? I double nutted it instead . Just temporarily unitl I can see if it is leaking after putting it back together. You can easily reach the nuts as they are on the side easy to access. I am not recommending this to anyone as the locking nut seems like it is gonna stay on no matter what. .