Good morning Ron... I would be most grateful of your help. Can you tell me what is the correct way of saving the auto focus settings applied to each of the individual back buttons. Nothing I have tried is working 😞 Thanks again for all you great videos ... Martin
Hi Ron I'm from the UK and I'm off next week to a red kite feeding station where you can get 200 plus red kites at a time should I use zone or eye detect also if I'm using a speed of say 1600 should I leave inis on.
Hi Ron. I was so confused with my canon R3 AF settings and only you were able to clear my doubts and helped me learn. Would love to see more videos from you covering the R3. Thank you so much !❤
Hi Ron....new subscriber...love your work! Just upgraded my Canon !DXmk 3 to Canon R3 and your videos have been extremely useful to allow me to quiclkly pick up the new settings. Just one question. I notice you have mirrored the camera to a monitor and wondered how you set that up. I have tried to link my camera screen to my macbook without success. I can link to my TV with a HDMI cable but a connection to my Mac remains a mystery to me.
Awesome, thank you! I wish I could help. I am a PC guy and I have very little experience with macs. I would think you could use an HDMI cable from the camera to your mac if your mac has an HDMI port. Beyond that, I am afraid I am useless to you. Sorry. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hey Ron -great video as usual. Just been trying to set up the three back buttons as you suggest on R5, but always get the same AF zone or Spot for two buttons, with animal eye for the third. Can I have spot, zone and animal eye for the three buttons??
Totally agree with your settings and techniques with R5 and 600 F4 RF, seeing the same results and using the Speed Shooter is absolute game changer. If you guys haven’t got one from Ron, do it you’ll love it.
@@whistlingwingsphotography good to see you back, I went to the 3 back button after your last video, I wasn't using zone and it has been able to help nail some owls that have been crossing into heavy brush on dives, makes the world of difference. So going to 3 is ideal.
Hey Ron, thanks a lot for your detailed information on your experiences with birds in flight photography! I´ve just one question: How do you handle bright clear sky sceneries belonging to the aperture? In this scenes I sometimes see my AF system fail even when hugh birds are close around 20-30m..I use the RF600 f4 with 1.4Konverter..
Thanks for the info! Can you do a video on how you wrap your lenses? I’m always afraid to take a precision knife to it to cut off the excess wrap and scratch the lens underneath.
Hi Ron! Question: my R5 on occasion is unable to focus with either spot or eye on a bird close within range that I just was able to focus before. I had to switch to manual focus to get the shot. Have you 1) heard of this 2) have a solution? All updates current. Settings work for similar subjects scenarios before and after, just randomly won’t focus. Love your content. Thanks so much.
Hey, sorry to take so long to get to this, but I have been going non-stop leading bird photography tours. I have had this issue happen on a rare occasion. It just seems to be part of mirrorless AF idiosyncrasies. If it is happen all the time then I would say it is something more, but if only once and a while, then just one of those weird things. When I have this happen, I use spot and focus away from the subject and then back to the subject. That usually works for me. Hope this helps at least a little bit.
Nope, I will not be getting the R7. I really like the results I get from FF sensors. However, I know the R7 will be great for a lot of wildlife photographers.
Hi Ron! A nice video as always! I will try out your settings on my R5 and EF 600 F4 mk III and se how it goes! I wonder also how close you are to your birds then shooting as you always seem to get so razor sharp images with the RF 600 F4 on the R5... It should be the same with the EF 600 F4 mk III as they are optically identical they should be just as sharp. I just presume the advantages of the RF version is faster and perhaps better AF. I got the EF versionen a year ago to be able to use it on my backup camera (6D mk II). Only time I probably will upgrade is than Canon comes out with a new RF 600 F4 with new lens design so it's smaller, lighter and even sharper then the current versions (I know one is in development)...
Hey, thanks for the comment. The distance to birds varies greatly, but I generally do not crop over 50% of the original image. That said, I have found over the years that if the image is tack sharp in camera, you can get away with quite a bit of cropping and still retain nice detail. But the image must be tack sharp. This certainly is true with the new RF 600 as the lens is very sharp and very fast on AF with the R3 and the R5. The Mk. III is still really good with AF and IS/IBIS, but the RF is better and if you do a lot of fast action you will hit more shots with the RF. It all depends on how much you really need the AF and IS to work at its best. Cheers, Ron
Hi Ron, I find your info spot on for my bird photography and my R5, I use your info (especially the back button set up) to fine tune my shooting. It’s been really helpful. I will try your new set up (case auto) and switch my second button to zone( the square) I’ll also try leaving my stabilization to 2 for a bit. I found your in the field information extremely helpful as I try for my best images with Osprey and Kingfisher dives. Oh and thanks for the Mossy Oak tip for skin for my RF 100-500mm, I love it…got to put it on my 800 f11 too.
Hi Ron. Helpful video as always. I’ve had dual back button focus set on the R5 pretty much from day 1 (AF-ON for single point, and * for eye tracking) However I’d like to go with the three button option but I’m having difficulty setting up the grid button and to have that initiate AF when pressed on its own. As per Steve’s comment on your video a year ago, under the Switch to Registered AF function option, I’ve checked all the boxes and set the parameters for each of the 3 settings but still, when pressed on its own, it does not initiate AF. I guess I’m doing something wrong but am struggling.
Alan, take a look at my updated R5 set up video if you have not already. At the 41:50 mark of the video I go over the correct way to set up the 3 back buttons. If after watching this you still have questions email me at ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com and we can go over it. Cheers, Ron
Hi Ron. I've seen a lot of your interesting videos. Thanks a lot! I'm shooting BIF with the R5 and the EF 600/4 V2 or 100-500 with BBF like you. But I'm not shure which AF-mode is the best in which situation. Is the zone mode better when photographing the kingfischer diving to the surface or coming out of the water or the eye-AF? What mode when capturing the osprey catching a fish? Thanks for an answer! I think this theme is worth a separate video!!? Many greetings from Germany!
Hey, thanks for the comment. I am using eye detect with tracking for all my BIF until I find a situation where it is having difficulty. It is hard to predict when it will have trouble, but in general If there is competing elements on the same plane on close then zone tends to work better if the bird is flapping its wings. If it is gliding then Zone will have a bit of trouble keeping on the bird just like eye detect might. Overall, I go with eye detect and go to zone or spot if needed. Zone def works best if the birds eye is not detectable and there is competing elements. I will work on a video with more detail on this subject.
I just watched one of your other videos, Ron, and there you suggested using mode 3 almost all the time. I tried that and like it. Only for static subjects, I switch back to 1 because it is easier to frame.
@@qilight As firmware changes the behavior of the IS/IBIS I have changed what I do. Mode 3 still works well, but I don't like the jump in the viewfinder image that I get sometimes from when the IS/IBIS starts to when it stops as you take images. It is hard to explain, here.
Actually, I feel the AF is very fast with the RF 600. I found the AF to be a bit slow on my old EF 600 at times and that is one of the reasons I switched to the RF. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Yeah sure, but do you lose some shots because the AF is too slow? Just sold my Canon 600mm f4 is ii for the Nikon 800mm 6.3 because of slow af
Good morning Ron... I would be most grateful of your help.
Can you tell me what is the correct way of saving the auto focus settings applied to each of the individual back buttons.
Nothing I have tried is working 😞
Thanks again for all you great videos ... Martin
Hi Ron I'm from the UK and I'm off next week to a red kite feeding station where you can get 200 plus red kites at a time should I use zone or eye detect also if I'm using a speed of say 1600 should I leave inis on.
o they just love the back grounds !!!!
Good video, it was great talking to you in Barrow.
It was great to talk to you as well. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Hope to run into you again in the future.
Hi Ron. I was so confused with my canon R3 AF settings and only you were able to clear my doubts and helped me learn. Would love to see more videos from you covering the R3. Thank you so much !❤
So glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Magnifique. Merci pour tout.
Hi Ron....new subscriber...love your work! Just upgraded my Canon !DXmk 3 to Canon R3 and your videos have been extremely useful to allow me to quiclkly pick up the new settings. Just one question. I notice you have mirrored the camera to a monitor and wondered how you set that up. I have tried to link my camera screen to my macbook without success. I can link to my TV with a HDMI cable but a connection to my Mac remains a mystery to me.
Awesome, thank you! I wish I could help. I am a PC guy and I have very little experience with macs. I would think you could use an HDMI cable from the camera to your mac if your mac has an HDMI port. Beyond that, I am afraid I am useless to you. Sorry. Ron
Thanks Ron. I've set the zone and AF case as you suggest on my R5. I will test this adjustment out tomorrow.
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hey Ron -great video as usual. Just been trying to set up the three back buttons as you suggest on R5, but always get the same AF zone or Spot for two buttons, with animal eye for the third. Can I have spot, zone and animal eye for the three buttons??
Totally agree with your settings and techniques with R5 and 600 F4 RF, seeing the same results and using the Speed Shooter is absolute game changer. If you guys haven’t got one from Ron, do it you’ll love it.
Vince, great to hear from you. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you are well.
@@whistlingwingsphotography good to see you back, I went to the 3 back button after your last video, I wasn't using zone and it has been able to help nail some owls that have been crossing into heavy brush on dives, makes the world of difference. So going to 3 is ideal.
Hey Ron, thanks a lot for your detailed information on your experiences with birds in flight photography! I´ve just one question: How do you handle bright clear sky sceneries belonging to the aperture? In this scenes I sometimes see my AF system fail even when hugh birds are close around 20-30m..I use the RF600 f4 with 1.4Konverter..
Thanks for the info!
Can you do a video on how you wrap your lenses? I’m always afraid to take a precision knife to it to cut off the excess wrap and scratch the lens underneath.
Sure, I can do a vid on wrapping lenses. It is a bit of an art and not so much science. But I will give it a go. Stay tuned.
@@whistlingwingsphotography looking forward to it!
Nice one Ron.
Thanks so much.
Hi Ron! Question: my R5 on occasion is unable to focus with either spot or eye on a bird close within range that I just was able to focus before. I had to switch to manual focus to get the shot. Have you 1) heard of this 2) have a solution? All updates current. Settings work for similar subjects scenarios before and after, just randomly won’t focus. Love your content. Thanks so much.
Hey, sorry to take so long to get to this, but I have been going non-stop leading bird photography tours. I have had this issue happen on a rare occasion. It just seems to be part of mirrorless AF idiosyncrasies. If it is happen all the time then I would say it is something more, but if only once and a while, then just one of those weird things. When I have this happen, I use spot and focus away from the subject and then back to the subject. That usually works for me. Hope this helps at least a little bit.
Great video great pictures, will you be buying the canon r7 when it’s released?
Nope, I will not be getting the R7. I really like the results I get from FF sensors. However, I know the R7 will be great for a lot of wildlife photographers.
Amazing photos!!
Hey, thanks much.
Hi Ron! A nice video as always! I will try out your settings on my R5 and EF 600 F4 mk III and se how it goes! I wonder also how close you are to your birds then shooting as you always seem to get so razor sharp images with the RF 600 F4 on the R5... It should be the same with the EF 600 F4 mk III as they are optically identical they should be just as sharp. I just presume the advantages of the RF version is faster and perhaps better AF. I got the EF versionen a year ago to be able to use it on my backup camera (6D mk II). Only time I probably will upgrade is than Canon comes out with a new RF 600 F4 with new lens design so it's smaller, lighter and even sharper then the current versions (I know one is in development)...
Hey, thanks for the comment. The distance to birds varies greatly, but I generally do not crop over 50% of the original image. That said, I have found over the years that if the image is tack sharp in camera, you can get away with quite a bit of cropping and still retain nice detail. But the image must be tack sharp. This certainly is true with the new RF 600 as the lens is very sharp and very fast on AF with the R3 and the R5. The Mk. III is still really good with AF and IS/IBIS, but the RF is better and if you do a lot of fast action you will hit more shots with the RF. It all depends on how much you really need the AF and IS to work at its best. Cheers,
Ron
Beautiful captures!
Thanks so much.
Hi Ron, I find your info spot on for my bird photography and my R5, I use your info (especially the back button set up) to fine tune my shooting. It’s been really helpful. I will try your new set up (case auto) and switch my second button to zone( the square) I’ll also try leaving my stabilization to 2 for a bit. I found your in the field information extremely helpful as I try for my best images with Osprey and Kingfisher dives. Oh and thanks for the Mossy Oak tip for skin for my RF 100-500mm, I love it…got to put it on my 800 f11 too.
Hey, thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment
Hi Ron. Helpful video as always. I’ve had dual back button focus set on the R5 pretty much from day 1 (AF-ON for single point, and * for eye tracking) However I’d like to go with the three button option but I’m having difficulty setting up the grid button and to have that initiate AF when pressed on its own. As per Steve’s comment on your video a year ago, under the Switch to Registered AF function option, I’ve checked all the boxes and set the parameters for each of the 3 settings but still, when pressed on its own, it does not initiate AF. I guess I’m doing something wrong but am struggling.
Alan, take a look at my updated R5 set up video if you have not already. At the 41:50 mark of the video I go over the correct way to set up the 3 back buttons. If after watching this you still have questions email me at ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com and we can go over it. Cheers, Ron
Thanks Ron. Got it now! And thanks for the offer of help.
Lovely results. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment.
Nice work.
Thanks so much.
Did I miss it? Can you share the harness you use?
Please check out the link in the description of this video. Thanks so much.
Hi Ron. I've seen a lot of your interesting videos. Thanks a lot! I'm shooting BIF with the R5 and the EF 600/4 V2 or 100-500 with BBF like you. But I'm not shure which AF-mode is the best in which situation. Is the zone mode better when photographing the kingfischer diving to the surface or coming out of the water or the eye-AF? What mode when capturing the osprey catching a fish? Thanks for an answer! I think this theme is worth a separate video!!? Many greetings from Germany!
Hey, thanks for the comment. I am using eye detect with tracking for all my BIF until I find a situation where it is having difficulty. It is hard to predict when it will have trouble, but in general If there is competing elements on the same plane on close then zone tends to work better if the bird is flapping its wings. If it is gliding then Zone will have a bit of trouble keeping on the bird just like eye detect might. Overall, I go with eye detect and go to zone or spot if needed. Zone def works best if the birds eye is not detectable and there is competing elements. I will work on a video with more detail on this subject.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks a lot!! I'm looking forward for the new video with more details.
Thanks Ron, very helpful! So IS mode 2 basically always on (I use the RF 100-500). Interesting...
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
I just watched one of your other videos, Ron, and there you suggested using mode 3 almost all the time. I tried that and like it. Only for static subjects, I switch back to 1 because it is easier to frame.
@@qilight As firmware changes the behavior of the IS/IBIS I have changed what I do. Mode 3 still works well, but I don't like the jump in the viewfinder image that I get sometimes from when the IS/IBIS starts to when it stops as you take images. It is hard to explain, here.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Completely agree!
Do you ever feel like the AF is too slow with the R3 and RF 600mm f4? F.e. with very close songbirds?
Actually, I feel the AF is very fast with the RF 600. I found the AF to be a bit slow on my old EF 600 at times and that is one of the reasons I switched to the RF. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Yeah sure, but do you lose some shots because the AF is too slow? Just sold my Canon 600mm f4 is ii for the Nikon 800mm 6.3 because of slow af
Hey Ron,
So which one is it? To IS or to not IS?
ua-cam.com/video/yLpFPNFslc4/v-deo.html
15'30" "Turn IS off!"
Does that sound familiar?😀