Thanks, this video was great. I did a similar procedure on my 2006 xc70. I left the Haldex oil pump on and the holes that are threaded on your differential flange are not threaded on my Volvo. I could not get a tap on the back side of the flange to cut new threads. What I did was use a tap to add threads to the driveshaft flange. I started with M9 threads and then went up to M10 threads since I only had an M10 bolt. I cut a piece of a hex wrench about 1 cm long with an angle grinder and used that as the metal plug that you used in the video. Once I had the hex wrench plug and M10 bolt tight on the driveshaft side, I put an M8 bolt on the differential flange and tightened until eventually it broke free. I only resorted to using the tap to cut threads after using penetrating oil, hammering on the driveshaft, using the engine method of Paulo5861, and feeling sorry for myself. I also tried using a bolt on the back side of the coupling plate pushing against the oil pump when rocking the car in neutral, but the oil pump starting getting a dent, so don't do this! I hope this helps someone if they also don't have threads and don't forget to use cutting oil when using the tap set.
Thank you for the video. Was planning to change DEM pump and oil in Haldex on my 2005 XC70. And propshaft didnt want to go out. It is easier to get screws from behind when DEM ECU is removed. Managed to shear one screw off while trying to push propshaft flange. Since as you mention holes were rusty. So took another hole. And worked screw several times in and out deeper and deeper. Used the pin as well to get bigger step. Well it took me some good 4 hours to replace the pump oil and filter. 🙈 half of it was fighting with propshaft.
Totally awesome man. Thank you. I am just going through all the drive train fluid changes. 2005 S60 AWD ===> 237,000 miles heading for 500,000... maybe.
slip a smaller dia cap screw in the blind hole from the rear and hit it with air hammer to pound it out from the back. The allen cap screw captures the tip of the airhammer chisel point.
Thanks for the video. This is the info I needed for my V70R. Trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself or just take it to a shop. I bought a full diff assembly just in case my DEM and pump are dead, and thought about just putting the whole unit in but I’m dreading the idea of that much disassembly.
Andys Volvo still in the middle of it, but I haven’t had much time to work on it since I started last week. My car looks pretty good on the outside but there are incredibly corroded fasteners in certain places underneath. Shaft bolts came out ok, but I would have been absolutely screwed without your trick. Threads on the back side of the coupler were pretty rusty. I hit them with some penetrating oil, then found an old 1/4 drill bit to cut a couple of stubs off of to make the pusher rods. I didn’t have much for new bolts laying around (and my hardware store was closed), but I found that the oil pan bolts from my spare redblock are the perfect length for this job. Speaking of corrosion... my DEM bolts Allen heads stripped immediately when I tried to remove them. Used an extractor, but the heads snapped off. The thing is absolutely glued on there... still is. So after the CV cup was out, I zipped the big nut off the coupler with an impact gun no issue. Pulled the coupler off with a pulled and impact, again no issue. Once the coupler was out of the way, I was able to get to the 4 12mm hex bolts holding on the AOC. Right now, I’m not very hopeful that I’ll easily get the DEM off, so I ordered the most exact part number and year I could from eBay. Fingers crossed that it will be plug and play (plug and pray?) I also ordered some CV rebuild kits. Mine look original and really dry. Next step is putting my serviced and less corroded AOC on to the diff carrier, and popping the eBay DEM onto it. Exhaust seems like it has to be next. Damn this car, but I love it. Glad I’m not trying to daily drive it! Thanks again for the video. You were literally an inspiration and showed me the much needed trick.
@@joekirklin Hey man good luck! For the DEM I would suggest spraying it down with some PB blaster and then wiggling it a ton maybe adding heat, should eventually pop off. Funny thing is I just sold a DEM on ebay last night, its going to PA.
Andys Volvo funny! I read or heard somewhere that the DEM has to be the same year and part number otherwise you have to get it flashed. And there’s definitely some sort of cutoff from 2004 and earlier where the the communication bus isn’t even talking at the same speed. I’ll comment back on here if and when I get things sorted out. If your video helped me, maybe our comments can be of further help to other Volvonauts.
Thanks for the info 👍🏼 my xc60 has a faulty gen 4. I was excited when I saw your vid as Iv been trying to remove the drive shaft for quite some time, mine has same holes as yours but not threaded for some reason 😂😂 not sure what to do now
AV Garage sorted it eventually! With the bolts removed I put the car in drive and drove forwards with slight force so the threaded bolt holes were no longer lined up. Doing this released the grip between the flange and the prop shaft CV joint. I then removed the centre exhaust section so that the prop shaft sagged down in the middle and it came out relatively easy! The flange centre nut was removed by using many swear words😂 new pump/filter installed and 4 wheel drive back in action.
How long was the 1/4" rod you cut to push the shaft out? I underestimated that portion of the video last week and had to re-assemble as it was late when I started and driving a bolt in the rusty hole was difficult. Good video, once I do mine I'll post another comments with my tips using your experience as a baseline
I measured 0.600" from the back plate to the bottom? Is that about right? I'm planning to cut 1" long 1/4" dia rods in half and giving them a quick file. Will that do??
Hello mate very helpful video. Im just confused where did you thread the bolt in? Maybe i didnt check closely enough but when i checked the haldex on my volvo, the rear of the couple had extra holes but they didnt seem to have threads in them?
I happened to have the exact bolt you specified and attempted your method. With the extra metal piece (just as short or shorter than yours, I was unable to get the threading started. Without the metal piece, I was able to easily thread it in, but it stopped threading at a certain point even though it wasn't hitting up against anything. It would just spin in place endlessly. Now I'm downright confused. Is there anything you can tell me to overcome this quandary?
@@AVGarage_ Found the problem. The bolt that threaded in for you only felt like it was threading in for me. But it was really just a snug fitting bolt in the hole without threading into anything at all. With that clear, I stuck the bolt in the hole and blasted it with a chipping hammer, knocking it loose from behind. It's kind of odd that the exact same bolt size threaded in for you but didn't for me. Oh well.
You can use the torgue of the motor running when it is placed in drive or reverse against the rear emergency brakes holding the rear differential in place to break loose the drive shaft from the AOC coupler. Easy pezzy
Thanks, this video was great. I did a similar procedure on my 2006 xc70. I left the Haldex oil pump on and the holes that are threaded on your differential flange are not threaded on my Volvo. I could not get a tap on the back side of the flange to cut new threads. What I did was use a tap to add threads to the driveshaft flange. I started with M9 threads and then went up to M10 threads since I only had an M10 bolt. I cut a piece of a hex wrench about 1 cm long with an angle grinder and used that as the metal plug that you used in the video. Once I had the hex wrench plug and M10 bolt tight on the driveshaft side, I put an M8 bolt on the differential flange and tightened until eventually it broke free.
I only resorted to using the tap to cut threads after using penetrating oil, hammering on the driveshaft, using the engine method of Paulo5861, and feeling sorry for myself. I also tried using a bolt on the back side of the coupling plate pushing against the oil pump when rocking the car in neutral, but the oil pump starting getting a dent, so don't do this!
I hope this helps someone if they also don't have threads and don't forget to use cutting oil when using the tap set.
Thank you for the video. Was planning to change DEM pump and oil in Haldex on my 2005 XC70. And propshaft didnt want to go out. It is easier to get screws from behind when DEM ECU is removed. Managed to shear one screw off while trying to push propshaft flange. Since as you mention holes were rusty. So took another hole. And worked screw several times in and out deeper and deeper. Used the pin as well to get bigger step. Well it took me some good 4 hours to replace the pump oil and filter. 🙈 half of it was fighting with propshaft.
Just wanted to say thanks so much for putting this up. Saved me many hours of frustration.
No problem man 👍
I've been struggling this morning with that, this video made my day. THANK YOU.
You have no idea... how much you saved and helped me new subscriber forsure
I’ve used this method 2-3 times now. Only one that works reliably
Thanks for the tip. I'm fighting my V70R right now trying to do the service and change the pump.
me to. todays mission
Totally awesome man. Thank you. I am just going through all the drive train fluid changes. 2005 S60 AWD ===> 237,000 miles heading for 500,000... maybe.
Lets hope you get there!
Thanks for the video. Do you need to first remove the front end of the shaft?
slip a smaller dia cap screw in the blind hole from the rear and hit it with air hammer to pound it out from the back.
The allen cap screw captures the tip of the airhammer chisel point.
Thanks for the video. This is the info I needed for my V70R. Trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself or just take it to a shop. I bought a full diff assembly just in case my DEM and pump are dead, and thought about just putting the whole unit in but I’m dreading the idea of that much disassembly.
Took me alot longer than I was expecting after running into issues like this one. Did you get it fixed yet?
Andys Volvo still in the middle of it, but I haven’t had much time to work on it since I started last week.
My car looks pretty good on the outside but there are incredibly corroded fasteners in certain places underneath. Shaft bolts came out ok, but I would have been absolutely screwed without your trick. Threads on the back side of the coupler were pretty rusty. I hit them with some penetrating oil, then found an old 1/4 drill bit to cut a couple of stubs off of to make the pusher rods. I didn’t have much for new bolts laying around (and my hardware store was closed), but I found that the oil pan bolts from my spare redblock are the perfect length for this job.
Speaking of corrosion... my DEM bolts Allen heads stripped immediately when I tried to remove them. Used an extractor, but the heads snapped off. The thing is absolutely glued on there... still is.
So after the CV cup was out, I zipped the big nut off the coupler with an impact gun no issue. Pulled the coupler off with a pulled and impact, again no issue. Once the coupler was out of the way, I was able to get to the 4 12mm hex bolts holding on the AOC.
Right now, I’m not very hopeful that I’ll easily get the DEM off, so I ordered the most exact part number and year I could from eBay. Fingers crossed that it will be plug and play (plug and pray?)
I also ordered some CV rebuild kits. Mine look original and really dry.
Next step is putting my serviced and less corroded AOC on to the diff carrier, and popping the eBay DEM onto it.
Exhaust seems like it has to be next.
Damn this car, but I love it. Glad I’m not trying to daily drive it!
Thanks again for the video. You were literally an inspiration and showed me the much needed trick.
@@joekirklin Hey man good luck! For the DEM I would suggest spraying it down with some PB blaster and then wiggling it a ton maybe adding heat, should eventually pop off. Funny thing is I just sold a DEM on ebay last night, its going to PA.
Andys Volvo funny! I read or heard somewhere that the DEM has to be the same year and part number otherwise you have to get it flashed. And there’s definitely some sort of cutoff from 2004 and earlier where the the communication bus isn’t even talking at the same speed. I’ll comment back on here if and when I get things sorted out. If your video helped me, maybe our comments can be of further help to other Volvonauts.
@@joekirklin Yeah it’s super specific. I grabbed one from the junk yard and it didn’t work because of the part # so I put it on ebay.
Thanks for the info 👍🏼 my xc60 has a faulty gen 4. I was excited when I saw your vid as Iv been trying to remove the drive shaft for quite some time, mine has same holes as yours but not threaded for some reason 😂😂 not sure what to do now
Darn lol. If you could get a tap in there you may be able to thread something
AV Garage sorted it eventually! With the bolts removed I put the car in drive and drove forwards with slight force so the threaded bolt holes were no longer lined up. Doing this released the grip between the flange and the prop shaft CV joint. I then removed the centre exhaust section so that the prop shaft sagged down in the middle and it came out relatively easy! The flange centre nut was removed by using many swear words😂 new pump/filter installed and 4 wheel drive back in action.
GREAT VID... GREAT TRICK.... thank you
How long was the 1/4" rod you cut to push the shaft out? I underestimated that portion of the video last week and had to re-assemble as it was late when I started and driving a bolt in the rusty hole was difficult. Good video, once I do mine I'll post another comments with my tips using your experience as a baseline
I measured 0.600" from the back plate to the bottom? Is that about right? I'm planning to cut 1" long 1/4" dia rods in half and giving them a quick file. Will that do??
Had the same issue. Took the airhammer and 20 sec later it was loose
Hello mate very helpful video. Im just confused where did you thread the bolt in? Maybe i didnt check closely enough but when i checked the haldex on my volvo, the rear of the couple had extra holes but they didnt seem to have threads in them?
Some of them are not threaded and others are. If it’s very rusty it will be hard to tell if it’s threaded or not.
@@AVGarage_ Thats what i figured, thank you!
Thank you!
I happened to have the exact bolt you specified and attempted your method. With the extra metal piece (just as short or shorter than yours, I was unable to get the threading started. Without the metal piece, I was able to easily thread it in, but it stopped threading at a certain point even though it wasn't hitting up against anything. It would just spin in place endlessly. Now I'm downright confused. Is there anything you can tell me to overcome this quandary?
I would attempt another hole and or attempt to shorten your “dowel” pin that didn’t allow you to thread in the first place
@@AVGarage_ Found the problem. The bolt that threaded in for you only felt like it was threading in for me. But it was really just a snug fitting bolt in the hole without threading into anything at all. With that clear, I stuck the bolt in the hole and blasted it with a chipping hammer, knocking it loose from behind. It's kind of odd that the exact same bolt size threaded in for you but didn't for me. Oh well.
Do you have to remove the driveshaft to get it completely out of the coupler or will it compress enough to just move it out of the way?
I think you need to remove the center carrier bearing and then you will be able to move it out of the way.
You can use the torgue of the motor running when it is placed in drive or reverse against the rear emergency brakes holding the rear differential in place to break loose the drive shaft from the AOC coupler. Easy pezzy
I actually tried this and it didn’t work.
Thank you, I had this exact question. Can you elaborate on how you did this?
Worked for me
Took 2-3 mins of reverse - forward and it went
it works for me.
What size Bolt?
M8 x 25mm 1.25mm thread pitch. A 15-20mm bolt would probably work just as well but you don’t want a longer one.
How do you remove center bolt ?
I used an air impact to take it off. You can counter hold the flange with screwdrivers through the other bolt holes as well.
Hi question
how do you pull off the pump before prop removal?
thanks in advance!
Since I was replacing my dead pump I broke it with a hammer to remove it. Theoretically you shouldn’t need to remove it to remove the prop shaft