I jack the rear end up using the solid steel casting which is part of the diff/subframe assembly and is slightly forward of the thinner steel box section with the bolts through it.
Hey, that's answered my question. I have used the scissor-lift jack supplied when I got a puncture on a motorway together with the skinny wheel, but I wanted to do a little work under my 2002 XKR (40k-miles) and was wondering the best place to jack up the Jag' Thanks. Old hooligan
What a controversial topic, Jaguar made it as difficult as they could, didn't they. Looking at the JTIS, the front STEEL beam is the right way to lift at the front, as in the video, those arguing otherwise need to get back to the Jag documentation. There is even a clear arrow on the plastic cover to indicate where to position the jack (you can't see it in the video but it is pretty obvious on my MY2000 XK8). BUT it is imperative to spread the load of the jack with a solid piece of wood or metal, as you can damage the beam still, especially if you jack does not have a proper soft pad. Jacking up on the front aluminium crossmember further back is a big NONO, JTIS is very specific about this. Then use jackstands at the recommended jacking points on the sides.
I am looking at the jaguar workshop manual second edition and it says "CAUTION: Do not use the crossbeam as a jacking point, as damage can occur to the crossbeam, steering rack and brake pipes." - reason given is that is an aluminum cross member, not steel. What the manual isn't kind enough to do is tell me the CORRECT locations front and rear for jacking with a trolley/floor jack so that axle stands can be put on the only jacking points I can find described in the manual in the industry standard locations right by every wheel, designed to use the OEM scissor jack. Which is a thing Ive seen a lot of manufacturers do; they say you should use axles stands; they say you should jack at the 4 jacking points only; you cannot jack a car on a jacking point and simultaneously put an axle stand in the same location. The reason is because they expect you to go to a shop and use a four post lift. So the OP may be right that you can jack here, but I can't find jaguar saying that anywhere. Imma keep looking before I put this thing up in the air lol. All cars should have good jacking instructions that can account for axle stands/floor jack/home mechanics, or simply for people working in very limited shops/back of the shop/long term jobs etc etc etc where they dont want to tie up a four-post for an extended period of time. Also very useful when buying used cars and you can actually get a good look under there to check boots/trans/oilpan/leaks etc etc. I should probably invest in some portable sports car lifts but Im not ready to shell out $1k for a jack quite yet lol.
In this video the owner is placing the jack on the front radiator core support. That is not a recommended lift point. Look a bit further back where the front suspension meets the cross member, place the jack in the mid point at the thickest point of the cross member.
I did. Jaguar's manual shows six jacking points. I used the front jacking point to lower the car onto jack stands at the front left and right, and the rear jacking point to lower it onto jack stands at the rear left and right. If I used the jack at the side jacking points I wouldn't have been able to put the car on jack stands.
You can clearly see under the car where the recommended jacking point is lol. You see where the x is with the black bars? You see the frame underneath that connects the suspension on either side? That's the suspension cross-member lol. You should not be using any place where there is plastic over it lol
The correct front jacking point is the beam with the plastic over it. I always remove the plastic moulding before jacking as it only takes a couple of minutes.
Thats NOT the Front Suspension Crossmember ! It looks like you are jacking on Body Structure at the front of the car and under the Radiator so the Radiator Crossmember ? The Front Suspension Crossmember is an Aluminium casting and has the Engine Mtgs and suspension components bolted to it Another giveaway is that the plastic trim is not sacrificial ! Happy to be corrected if I have my understanding wrong
Never jack the car up using that aluminium casting or the black cross-bracing directly beneath the alu casting on convertibles. The alu can crack and the replacement cost is exorbitant. 🙁
@@richardsutton01 - Upon further investigation I think I agree with you, however when I tried to jack mine on the front crossmember I felt there was too much upwards deflection so I chickened out and then jacked it up one side at a time under the bracket of the fron subframe to front crossmember under the two fixing bolts - I felt much happier and this in my opinion is much stronger - Thanks for the correction
@@1960livvy No problem Steve. I'm sure that you didn't try it but I have seen occasions where people have interpreted the crossmember as being the U-section black steel front suspension crossbrace which is behind the crossmember. That will bend without doubt. I can understand that people think that it cannot be the plastic covered section as the plastic would crack (which, of course, it does!) so it must be the metal section. It only takes a few minutes to remove the plastic moulding and jacking both front wheels using one jack with a short length of timber under the correct crossmember is pain-free.
definitely the wrong places to jack it up use the frame and frame only another tip is to always keep jac on inside of tire when jacking it up remember safety first
If by "frame" you mean that large cast aluminum suspension structure the answer is huge NOOO!!! The manuals are very specific about this, jacking by that can cause serious (that means really, really expensive!) on these cars.
sorry, I know not your fault and the way I have always done it but it just bent it pretty bad. I would put a 2X4 to spread the load. that was probably the cracking you were hearing....
how could you bend the frame with a jack? Are you sure the plastic just was not deformed? Did yuo have a rusted frame? HOw do you know you bent it? Did yuo use the same crossmember as in the video?
That is the wrong place to jack it. The suspension cross member is between the wheels. The correct place is shown in the handbook. Here you risk the oil cooler and radiator because its the wrong place.
This is NOT a good jacking point. I, and it seams a few other folks who have left comments, have managed to bend this cross member radiator support. This, despite JTIS stating this is where it should be jacked up. Clearly from the evidence and frustration from myself of other commentors, this can and will cause damage to the cross member and possibly the radiator connections above.
The official Jaguar documentation (JTIS) says this is the correct way to jack the vehicle. I jacked my own personal vehicle this way many times with no issues.
Wish somebody would invent a ratcheting floor jack that locks and can never slip back, like an extension ladder sort of. To get it down, you just raise it slightly again and flick a release. Then we just buy two of those and don't need no stinkin' jack stands. And if the handle popped out, so you can walk around it, even better.
excellent thank you for posting this . There is so much controversy and wrong information on the net about where best to jack one of these cars
I jack the rear end up using the solid steel casting which is part of the diff/subframe assembly and is slightly forward of the thinner steel box section with the bolts through it.
Hey, that's answered my question.
I have used the scissor-lift jack supplied when I got a puncture on a motorway together with the skinny wheel, but I wanted to do a little work under my 2002 XKR (40k-miles) and was wondering the best place to jack up the Jag'
Thanks. Old hooligan
What a controversial topic, Jaguar made it as difficult as they could, didn't they. Looking at the JTIS, the front STEEL beam is the right way to lift at the front, as in the video, those arguing otherwise need to get back to the Jag documentation. There is even a clear arrow on the plastic cover to indicate where to position the jack (you can't see it in the video but it is pretty obvious on my MY2000 XK8). BUT it is imperative to spread the load of the jack with a solid piece of wood or metal, as you can damage the beam still, especially if you jack does not have a proper soft pad. Jacking up on the front aluminium crossmember further back is a big NONO, JTIS is very specific about this. Then use jackstands at the recommended jacking points on the sides.
Thanks pertaining to providing this kind of very good info.
I very much appreciate your videos. they are very helpful :)
I am looking at the jaguar workshop manual second edition and it says "CAUTION:
Do not use the crossbeam as a jacking point, as damage can occur to the crossbeam, steering rack and
brake pipes." - reason given is that is an aluminum cross member, not steel.
What the manual isn't kind enough to do is tell me the CORRECT locations front and rear for jacking with a trolley/floor jack so that axle stands can be put on the only jacking points I can find described in the manual in the industry standard locations right by every wheel, designed to use the OEM scissor jack.
Which is a thing Ive seen a lot of manufacturers do; they say you should use axles stands; they say you should jack at the 4 jacking points only; you cannot jack a car on a jacking point and simultaneously put an axle stand in the same location. The reason is because they expect you to go to a shop and use a four post lift.
So the OP may be right that you can jack here, but I can't find jaguar saying that anywhere.
Imma keep looking before I put this thing up in the air lol. All cars should have good jacking instructions that can account for axle stands/floor jack/home mechanics, or simply for people working in very limited shops/back of the shop/long term jobs etc etc etc where they dont want to tie up a four-post for an extended period of time. Also very useful when buying used cars and you can actually get a good look under there to check boots/trans/oilpan/leaks etc etc.
I should probably invest in some portable sports car lifts but Im not ready to shell out $1k for a jack quite yet lol.
In this video the owner is placing the jack on the front radiator core support. That is not a recommended lift point. Look a bit further back where the front suspension meets the cross member, place the jack in the mid point at the thickest point of the cross member.
What limit on jacking and axle stand height would you recommend?
I read about one guy who placed a hockey puck on his jack, with a notch cut out of it.
Why don’t you use the jacking points recommended by Jaguar?
I did. Jaguar's manual shows six jacking points. I used the front jacking point to lower the car onto jack stands at the front left and right, and the rear jacking point to lower it onto jack stands at the rear left and right.
If I used the jack at the side jacking points I wouldn't have been able to put the car on jack stands.
@@sam1174 my manuals elude me - can't find this simple info
@@rickpadilla9093 yeah my manual specifies the 4 corner jacking points but does not mention front/rear at all.
You can clearly see under the car where the recommended jacking point is lol. You see where the x is with the black bars? You see the frame underneath that connects the suspension on either side? That's the suspension cross-member lol. You should not be using any place where there is plastic over it lol
The correct front jacking point is the beam with the plastic over it. I always remove the plastic moulding before jacking as it only takes a couple of minutes.
Thanks for the really helpful video. Your'e a star!
Thanks! VERY HELPFUL!
Just did this and bent the cross member half an inch. Not real happy
That's where the manual says to jack it up. I think you used the wrong cross member.
Me too, I let it down quick before it did too much damage
Thanks!
Thats NOT the Front Suspension Crossmember ! It looks like you are jacking on Body Structure at the front of the car and under the Radiator so the Radiator Crossmember ?
The Front Suspension Crossmember is an Aluminium casting and has the Engine Mtgs and suspension components bolted to it
Another giveaway is that the plastic trim is not sacrificial !
Happy to be corrected if I have my understanding wrong
Never jack the car up using that aluminium casting or the black cross-bracing directly beneath the alu casting on convertibles. The alu can crack and the replacement cost is exorbitant. 🙁
@@richardsutton01 - Upon further investigation I think I agree with you, however when I tried to jack mine on the front crossmember I felt there was too much upwards deflection so I chickened out and then jacked it up one side at a time under the bracket of the fron subframe to front crossmember under the two fixing bolts - I felt much happier and this in my opinion is much stronger - Thanks for the correction
@@1960livvy No problem Steve. I'm sure that you didn't try it but I have seen occasions where people have interpreted the crossmember as being the U-section black steel front suspension crossbrace which is behind the crossmember. That will bend without doubt. I can understand that people think that it cannot be the plastic covered section as the plastic would crack (which, of course, it does!) so it must be the metal section. It only takes a few minutes to remove the plastic moulding and jacking both front wheels using one jack with a short length of timber under the correct crossmember is pain-free.
definitely the wrong places to jack it up use the frame and frame only another tip is to always keep jac on inside of tire when jacking it up remember safety first
If by "frame" you mean that large cast aluminum suspension structure the answer is huge NOOO!!! The manuals are very specific about this, jacking by that can cause serious (that means really, really expensive!) on these cars.
sorry, I know not your fault and the way I have always done it but it just bent it pretty bad. I would put a 2X4 to spread the load. that was probably the cracking you were hearing....
how could you bend the frame with a jack? Are you sure the plastic just was not deformed? Did yuo have a rusted frame? HOw do you know you bent it? Did yuo use the same crossmember as in the video?
That is the wrong place to jack it. The suspension cross member is between the wheels. The correct place is shown in the handbook. Here you risk the oil cooler and radiator because its the wrong place.
This is incorrect, I'm afraid.
THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA... NOT THE CORRECT PLACEMENT OF THE JACK...
so, where then?
@@rickpadilla9093 where all 4 posters jack from - the reinforced sill plates!
This is NOT a good jacking point. I, and it seams a few other folks who have left comments, have managed to bend this cross member radiator support. This, despite JTIS stating this is where it should be jacked up. Clearly from the evidence and frustration from myself of other commentors, this can and will cause damage to the cross member and possibly the radiator connections above.
The official Jaguar documentation (JTIS) says this is the correct way to jack the vehicle. I jacked my own personal vehicle this way many times with no issues.
The front cross member with the plastic trim below it is the correct jacking point. Sam has it right.
OMG 😳
Wish somebody would invent a ratcheting floor jack that locks and can never slip back, like an extension ladder sort of. To get it down, you just raise it slightly again and flick a release.
Then we just buy two of those and don't need no stinkin' jack stands. And if the handle popped out, so you can walk around it, even better.
there is one, i have it and it is awesome. Sadly its made for trucks