Thanks! Because of this video I've purchased some supplies and am attempting to make my own scales. So far, I've learned that I cannot use a coping saw. You make it look like cake!
Great video Mr Lewis, thanks for sharing your expertise - I just followed it and made a set of scales for my son's razor and I am really pleased with the result. I also used Cocobolo and finished with Tru-oil. Many thanks!
Ran into your videos by accident while looking something else up....but I have to say that these are GREAT! Thanks for sharing your work and techniques. Wow!
great video and walk through! a good idea if you do it again show the pinning process there are noobs (like myself) out there who don't know the process very well but great video!!!!
Several techniques here were new to me. Many thanks. Love the localization potential with woods . . . honey mesquite and Osage orange, as examples, in my area.
Nicely done. I like how you give explanations as you go along without a bunch of unnecessary talk. I have a couple of cheap Gold Dollar razors that honed up nicely but have ghastly scales. Might give this a go. Thanks!
@lewisrazors thanks for the reply. Your videos inspired me to make my own scales and restore a straight razor I bought at my local antique store. Thanks again for these amazing videos.
Great video. I'm just learning and i really like the simplicity of this process. This will be what i use to teach myself how to make scales. Thank you!!
Many thanks for that helpfull demonstration. Gives me more confidence to try my own scale making :) Love your work by the way, the twisted 8/8 looks just amazing
@chopstix2002 The blade is thicker than the opening between the scales. The blade does not touch the wedge. The blade is tapered and hits the insides of the scales before the edge has a chance to poke through. Thank you for the kind words about my work.
Yes what you described is correct, the scales will bow out in the middle a slight bit. The thickness of the blade/spine is thicker than the wedge so the blade will not go through. I would recommend looking at some antique straights and looking at there wedges. There is not a lot of taper,but there is a little bit. The bowed scales and the tapered tang work together holding the blade in the open posistion.
Lewis thank you for making this video and the one about pinning and peening, I'm going to make my own razor handle because mine was plastic and broke at the top a few years back. you make this look easy and gave me the confidence to try it for myself
I get 1/16 brass rod from the hobby store. the local rc-plane hobby shop and hobby lobby both carry the 1/16 brass rod. I get the washers from the local hardware store they are #80 size. You can also order washers from Microfateners. In the stickies in the Workshop area on the Straight Razor Place Forum There are a lot more details listed. Making custom scales for your son sounds like a great idea.
Your razors are absolutely amazing. Something about using something so raw looking in such a delicate way just makes it seem so visceral. Question on the scales...What keeps the blade from swinging down through the bottom of the scales. From what I surmise from the video it looks like the wedge you add to the end touches the end of the razor at some point. Do you need to keep the cutting edge of the razor from touching the wedge. I assume that would dull the blade.
I'm sorry, just to clarify and make sure I've got this right, with the then end going away from the blade (toward the end of the entire razor), the intention is to make the scales bow outward in the middle slightly? This is my first time making scales but from what I gather, the tapering at either end meeting the body of the blade is what stops the blade. I've seen a central rivet before to stop the blade from over-travel but I think yours looks much more elegant.
Nice work. There were some questions about where you got your blades. I look in pawn shops and especially antique or "pickers" stores. You would be surprised at what you can find. There are a lot of decent vintage blades out there. I look for ones with cracked scales and blades that are within my ability to refurbish. I have some very nice straight razors from this process. I just clean up the blade and make new scales. It's fun!
Spectacular, very helpful. What kind of glue did you use when you first (with paper in the middle) attached the 2 pieces of bubinga, pre-cutting, and what type of glue did you use when putting the wooden spacers in? They looked different.
Great work, what were the size ? x ? x ? of those wood pieces in the beginning? I see lots of nice "stabilized" exotic wood blanks out there, but I have no way to cut them thin enough if they are not the proper measurement to begin with. Is there a range of thickness one could get by with that would still work? Thanks.
I usually use 1/16" brass or nickel silver rods with small washers. The stickies for the workshop forum area, at Straight Razor Place Forums has lots of what and where to get information.
@lewisrazors I just finished watching another tutorial (the whole 12 video series...) where the person used shop equipment. I found your tutorial much more interesting as well as educational and I'm pretty sure I have everything you used in my shop :) One question, where did you get the nickle silver rod you used?
The wedge is tapers to the end of the razor. The thin part of the wedge is at the end (lengthwise) of the razor. If you held together just the two scales and the wedge the razor would make a V shape.
hi i just made a set of scales of my own by your instructions. i didn't follow them 100% to the letter but for the most part the process was the same. i didn't taper my wedge. i wasn't sure what you meant by that. which end did you make thinner and why? thankfully the scales i made look like they're going to work nicely anyway, i was just wondering for next pair i make. this set is made from lacewood with an african blackwood wedge sanded up to 400 grit. i finished the wood with an oil for a natural satin finish. last coat is drying as we speak, i'm excited to pin the razor to it. thanks for the tutorial it really helped.
The wedge tapers toward the end of razor, the wedge puts some spring in the scales to help hold the blade in place. I am glad your scales came out well. Happy shaving
I think it depends on the razor. In general I do not replace the scales if the existing scales are in good shape. If the scales are broken or in bad shape I do not have any qualms about replacing the scales. If the razor is a real old one I tend to err on the side of leaving the razor original. As to value, it depends what the person buying the razor likes.
I buy most of my vintage blades in antique stores or in antique malls. You have to get out and look to find the deals. You can also buy vintage blades from auctions on the internet. I do not know anywhere you can buy new blades without the handles. The classifieds on Straight Razor Place Forums is a good place to buy a used razor. Straight Razor Designs is a good lace to buy new razors.
Thank you! ill check there soon i really would like to make a set of beautiful custom scales for a Boker that i have that has the SS st luis engraved on it
A coping say is a bugger for e to use also. Google v-board or birds mouth along with coping saw. A board with a v notch in it makes the saw a lot easier to use.
Hi when you sand the wedge and put it in the handle which way does the thicker end of the wedge go? Does it go towards the back where the blade will slot in or towards the outside of the handle?
I just happened upon this video, and was so impressed that I want to make a pair of scales for my razor. The scales that are on it are cheap plastic, and very flimsy. I'm not concerned with increasing or decreasing the value, its the personal touch that I want. My son is interested in trying a SR, so what better than to buy him his first SR, and customize the scales as a personal touch. ?, where did you get the pins?
The process would be similar for acrylic, I would used double sided scotch tape to hold the halves together. There is also more fine grit (wet-dry) sanding and polishing to do with acrylic.
Nice vid, thanks very much! I'll be trying this myself rather soon. I'd just like to know if it's okay to use pickle (I believe it's called pickle...) as a lacquer. Pickly allows water to leave from within the lacquered material, making it less susceptible to wood rot etc. What is your view on that?
Job Spits I have not used it and am not familiar with it. I have had good luck using lacquer on scales though. I have used plain nitro cellulose lacquers and catalized lacquers. both have worked out fine.
Does replacing factory-made scales with homemade scales decrease the value of an antique? I've been really wanting to get into straight razor restoration as a side hobby, and thought might as well try to make a buck or two off of it as well. My dad got me a SR and on the box said "Wester Bros De-Fi...Made in Germany," but the shank has "WADE & BUTCHER SHEFFIELD" stamped into it.. So would trying to make my own scales for it hurt it's value at all? Also, I love your work and have respect to you
I’m most of the way through making a set of scales using your method. Great vid but maybe use a clamp to hold the wood when cutting? Saves the fingers.
You make it look easy peasy man! So, would it be difficult for a beginner to drill straight holes with a pin vise? Also is the pin vise capable of drill through existing pins - to remove and De-pin a razor?
Any issues with the finish not sticking? I'm making cocobolo scales also; currently at the first sanding stage, about to drill the tang. I was informed after the fact that cocobolo has a hard time adhering finishes. I usually use waterlox poly tung oil for the fancy stuff. Checked out their site: sure as shine says right on the front page that it Waterlox will stick to any rosewood EXCEPT cocobolo. How did your shallac finish turn out? Did it stick? Any coloration? I'm wondering if a CA finish would be better.
The video is about 5 years old, the scales still look good today. Cocobolo can be a hard wood to get finishes to stick to. Freshly mixed waxy shellac is a durable finish.
Christian Øygarden Thank you, Here is a good link for finding materials straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html
yes, the same tools, it just goes slower, and is kinda of a pia but it is doable. I also like to scrape plastic a bit to reduce sanding, I use a single edge razor blade to scrape with.
I have watched this video at least 12 times. still learning from it. shellac do you normally use that over any other finish such as tung oil , tru oil, ca ?
+Nate Fair Any kind of glue will work. I have used white glue, yellow glue, super glue, and epoxy. All the glues will work it just depends on what is handy.
What kind of glue did you use for the wedge? I noticed you switched from the elmers you used at the beginning to hold the two pieces together to something with a purple label.
dm0ney182 In the video I used shellac. If I were you I would use my lacquered scales and not worry about it. If the finish does fail over time make some new scales are refinsih them with a more durable finish. Varnish is a little more durable of a finish.
Thank you for the videos. I enjoy learning and watching your craftsmanship, tips and solutions. Beautiful razors, keep up the great work
Thanks! Because of this video I've purchased some supplies and am attempting to make my own scales. So far, I've learned that I cannot use a coping saw. You make it look like cake!
Great video Mr Lewis, thanks for sharing your expertise - I just followed it and made a set of scales for my son's razor and I am really pleased with the result. I also used Cocobolo and finished with Tru-oil.
Many thanks!
Ran into your videos by accident while looking something else up....but I have to say that these are GREAT! Thanks for sharing your work and techniques. Wow!
what a beautyful job you do mr Lewis,, wonderful razors,, true pieces of art
great video and walk through! a good idea if you do it again show the pinning process there are noobs (like myself) out there who don't know the process very well but great video!!!!
Disciplined, methodical and skilled. Thanks
You are welcome
Thank you so much for an EXCELLENT video. I think I can do it now. What an inspiration from start to finish.
You are very welcome, glad to hear it was helpful
Several techniques here were new to me. Many thanks.
Love the localization potential with woods . . . honey mesquite and Osage orange, as examples, in my area.
Very nice work sir. I'm confident that I can now replace the scales on an old blade I just aquired thanks to your video. Thank you
Have fun with your scale making, I hope it goes well
Nicely done. I like how you give explanations as you go along without a bunch of unnecessary talk.
I have a couple of cheap Gold Dollar razors that honed up nicely but have ghastly scales. Might give this a go.
Thanks!
I have several videos on scale making making straight razor scales with a minimum amount of hand tools . Modding and restoring razors in a lot of fun.
@lewisrazors thanks for the reply. Your videos inspired me to make my own scales and restore a straight razor I bought at my local antique store. Thanks again for these amazing videos.
Lewis, many thanks for your greats videos, you are an real inspiration for a lot.. Congrats !
Thank you for your kind comment
Great video. I'm just learning and i really like the simplicity of this process. This will be what i use to teach myself how to make scales. Thank you!!
+tatzl76 I am glad you found the video helpful, best of luck with your scale making.
Many thanks for that helpfull demonstration. Gives me more confidence to try my own scale making :)
Love your work by the way, the twisted 8/8 looks just amazing
Wow what a beautiful piece of work.
those scales are beautiful. liked them.
+Jawad Ibrahim Thank you
+lewisrazors you are welcome.
@chopstix2002 The blade is thicker than the opening between the scales. The blade does not touch the wedge. The blade is tapered and hits the insides of the scales before the edge has a chance to poke through.
Thank you for the kind words about my work.
Wow, thats amazing! Looks great when it's finished.
Nice work. Very informative. Will definitely try it myself.
I hope your scales come out well.
+lewisrazors thanks. Haven't decided on what to make one out of yet. Maybe glow in the dark
just what i was looking for...thanks and very nice work.
Yes what you described is correct, the scales will bow out in the middle a slight bit. The thickness of the blade/spine is thicker than the wedge so the blade will not go through.
I would recommend looking at some antique straights and looking at there wedges. There is not a lot of taper,but there is a little bit. The bowed scales and the tapered tang work together holding the blade in the open posistion.
Thank you for the encouragement, I glad you enjoyed some of the videos.
Lewis thank you for making this video and the one about pinning and peening, I'm going to make my own razor handle because mine was plastic and broke at the top a few years back. you make this look easy and gave me the confidence to try it for myself
Have fun with your scale making
Beautiful work. Well done.
Thank you.
I used a yellow woodworking glue in the beginning. I used a medium viscosity super glue on the wedge.
I get 1/16 brass rod from the hobby store. the local rc-plane hobby shop and hobby lobby both carry the 1/16 brass rod.
I get the washers from the local hardware store they are #80 size. You can also order washers from Microfateners.
In the stickies in the Workshop area on the Straight Razor Place Forum There are a lot more details listed.
Making custom scales for your son sounds like a great idea.
THANK YOU, for sharing this Amazing process!
you are very welcome
what a great video, i have wanted to make my own razor for a longtime now can you please tell me where i can find the blades from. thanks
Wow, beautiful! This is art!
Your razors are absolutely amazing. Something about using something so raw looking in such a delicate way just makes it seem so visceral. Question on the scales...What keeps the blade from swinging down through the bottom of the scales. From what I surmise from the video it looks like the wedge you add to the end touches the end of the razor at some point. Do you need to keep the cutting edge of the razor from touching the wedge. I assume that would dull the blade.
I'm sorry, just to clarify and make sure I've got this right, with the then end going away from the blade (toward the end of the entire razor), the intention is to make the scales bow outward in the middle slightly? This is my first time making scales but from what I gather, the tapering at either end meeting the body of the blade is what stops the blade. I've seen a central rivet before to stop the blade from over-travel but I think yours looks much more elegant.
Nice work. There were some questions about where you got your blades. I look in pawn shops and especially antique or "pickers" stores. You would be surprised at what you can find. There are a lot of decent vintage blades out there. I look for ones with cracked scales and blades that are within my ability to refurbish. I have some very nice straight razors from this process. I just clean up the blade and make new scales. It's fun!
Great advice, thank you.
Beautiful work. Thank you for sharing.
Thank yoiu
Spectacular, very helpful.
What kind of glue did you use when you first (with paper in the middle) attached the 2 pieces of bubinga, pre-cutting, and what type of glue did you use when putting the wooden spacers in? They looked different.
This is brilliant
Any chance you could include all the materials you use in the description for reference.
Thanks
gorgeous work
The thin end goes toward the end of the razor. Top to bottom is the same thickness, it tapers, get smaller toward the end away from the blade.
Good job mate keep up the good work
I am glad the video helped you, congratulations on the new scales.
I appreciate the feedback, it is encourages me to make more videos.
Great work, what were the size ? x ? x ? of those wood pieces in the beginning? I see lots of nice "stabilized" exotic wood blanks out there, but I have no way to cut them thin enough if they are not the proper measurement to begin with. Is there a range of thickness one could get by with that would still work? Thanks.
fine work very nicely done, I shall be makeing one soon I'll defo be be useing wood and by hand as I prefer hand made
Very cool, have fun
Well done. So you just trim the pins flush. Were they brass?
I cut a little less than the diameter proud, then dress with file, then proceed with the peening. ua-cam.com/video/t3kno59xC4U/v-deo.html
I usually use 1/16" brass or nickel silver rods with small washers. The stickies for the workshop forum area, at Straight Razor Place Forums has lots of what and where to get information.
@lewisrazors I just finished watching another tutorial (the whole 12 video series...) where the person used shop equipment. I found your tutorial much more interesting as well as educational and I'm pretty sure I have everything you used in my shop :) One question, where did you get the nickle silver rod you used?
Thank you! So do you think that just making them on side, and not yet replacing them is safe bet?
The wedge is tapers to the end of the razor. The thin part of the wedge is at the end (lengthwise) of the razor. If you held together just the two scales and the wedge the razor would make a V shape.
That was absolutely great
Thanks for the kind words
Where did you purchase the actual blade for the straight razor? I can't seem to find a good outlet to only purchase the blade. Please help, anyone!
The wood blanks were about 1/8 X 1 1/2 X 6 . An 1/8 is about as thick as I would go tend to make my wooden scales ab out 3/32.
hi i just made a set of scales of my own by your instructions. i didn't follow them 100% to the letter but for the most part the process was the same. i didn't taper my wedge. i wasn't sure what you meant by that. which end did you make thinner and why? thankfully the scales i made look like they're going to work nicely anyway, i was just wondering for next pair i make. this set is made from lacewood with an african blackwood wedge sanded up to 400 grit. i finished the wood with an oil for a natural satin finish. last coat is drying as we speak, i'm excited to pin the razor to it. thanks for the tutorial it really helped.
The wedge tapers toward the end of razor, the wedge puts some spring in the scales to help hold the blade in place. I am glad your scales came out well. Happy shaving
thank you sir same to you
I think it depends on the razor. In general I do not replace the scales if the existing scales are in good shape. If the scales are broken or in bad shape I do not have any qualms about replacing the scales. If the razor is a real old one I tend to err on the side of leaving the razor original.
As to value, it depends what the person buying the razor likes.
Great tutorial! Would I be able to use this method/tools to cut scales from an acrylic sheet?
I buy most of my vintage blades in antique stores or in antique malls. You have to get out and look to find the deals. You can also buy vintage blades from auctions on the internet. I do not know anywhere you can buy new blades without the handles. The classifieds on Straight Razor Place Forums is a good place to buy a used razor. Straight Razor Designs is a good lace to buy new razors.
Thank you! ill check there soon i really would like to make a set of beautiful custom scales for a Boker that i have that has the SS st luis engraved on it
Nice work! What kind of pins do you use or are they rivets? I'm looking at making wood scales for a shavette so I'm wondering where I can get them.
this video helped me out soo much!! thank you
You are welcome. I am glad to know the video helped out.
Great work! thanks for sharing.
I have bought 1/16 rod at Hobby Lobby, I have found #80 washers at my local Tru Value, but not at Lowes or Home Depot.
Yes, copying old scales is a great way to do it.
Another great video. I have already learned a great deal from yourself, Maggard and Lynn Abrams.
Thanks for the comments, Lynn and Brad are great guys.
Respect, great work!! Thanx for video!!!
A coping say is a bugger for e to use also. Google v-board or birds mouth along with coping saw. A board with a v notch in it makes the saw a lot easier to use.
I wish I new a good place to bu blades. Antique stores are where I get most of my factory made blades from. I make the other blades that I use.
Hi when you sand the wedge and put it in the handle which way does the thicker end of the wedge go? Does it go towards the back where the blade will slot in or towards the outside of the handle?
I just happened upon this video, and was so impressed that I want to make a pair of scales for my razor. The scales that are on it are cheap plastic, and very flimsy. I'm not concerned with increasing or decreasing the value, its the personal touch that I want. My son is interested in trying a SR, so what better than to buy him his first SR, and customize the scales as a personal touch. ?, where did you get the pins?
The process would be similar for acrylic, I would used double sided scotch tape to hold the halves together. There is also more fine grit (wet-dry) sanding and polishing to do with acrylic.
Nice vid, thanks very much! I'll be trying this myself rather soon. I'd just like to know if it's okay to use pickle (I believe it's called pickle...) as a lacquer. Pickly allows water to leave from within the lacquered material, making it less susceptible to wood rot etc. What is your view on that?
Job Spits I have not used it and am not familiar with it. I have had good luck using lacquer on scales though. I have used plain nitro cellulose lacquers and catalized lacquers. both have worked out fine.
lewisrazors Cheers man :)
so is the wedge thinner on the inside of the curve or outside? trying to follow but not sure which it is
Thank you I wanted to know how to make a handle for the razor !
Great video! I am going to be a regular around this channel.
Glad you liked it, Thanks for watching
Great video! one quick question, when you tapered the wedge, what side did the smaller edge go on? was it the bottom side of the scale?
It was a Bartmann brand blade. I purchased it from an antique shop.
Well thank
You for the vid as it showed me and spurred me on to make them.
Cool, have fun, hope they come out great
you breath hard, take it easy there bub.
Hi Lewis - just wondering what sort of woods you would suggest for wood scales generally? Hardwoods I would assume? Thanks
I would like bto see how you assemble the fasteners
Does replacing factory-made scales with homemade scales decrease the value of an antique? I've been really wanting to get into straight razor restoration as a side hobby, and thought might as well try to make a buck or two off of it as well.
My dad got me a SR and on the box said "Wester Bros De-Fi...Made in Germany," but the shank has "WADE & BUTCHER SHEFFIELD" stamped into it..
So would trying to make my own scales for it hurt it's value at all?
Also, I love your work and have respect to you
I’m most of the way through making a set of scales using your method. Great vid but maybe use a clamp to hold the wood when cutting? Saves the fingers.
You are right on, definitely better to use a clamp. In the video I was showing how it could be done with very little tools.
Thanks for the encouragement, I will have to make some more videos
very nice work
You make it look easy peasy man! So, would it be difficult for a beginner to drill straight holes with a pin vise? Also is the pin vise capable of drill through existing pins - to remove and De-pin a razor?
I file old pins flat then use a pin vise to de-pin it will work
@guapo2012 Thank you very much for the kind words
@flyingfranklin I ordered the nickel silver rod from Jantz Knife Making supplies
Nice video Charlie.
Thank you very much
Sounds good.
Great job!
Thank you
What's the finish you are using?
Shelak ? Is there any other finished that are easy?
I tried epoxy and it looked messy after.
Any issues with the finish not sticking? I'm making cocobolo scales also; currently at the first sanding stage, about to drill the tang. I was informed after the fact that cocobolo has a hard time adhering finishes.
I usually use waterlox poly tung oil for the fancy stuff. Checked out their site: sure as shine says right on the front page that it Waterlox will stick to any rosewood EXCEPT cocobolo. How did your shallac finish turn out? Did it stick? Any coloration? I'm wondering if a CA finish would be better.
The video is about 5 years old, the scales still look good today. Cocobolo can be a hard wood to get finishes to stick to. Freshly mixed waxy shellac is a durable finish.
Just a thought: Why not make the drawing on masking tape and stick it to the scale blank before sawing it out? Then, just peel it off before shaping.
+Brandon Taitano That method would work well also. Some times I do it that way, there are lots of ways to get things done. Thanks for the input.
I was wondering what kind of Blade you are using and where you bought it.
Nice work, and thank you for making a minimum tools / low cost tutorial :)
Where can I get washers and pin material?
Christian Øygarden Thank you, Here is a good link for finding materials straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html
Thanks for the kind words. I hope the video can help your scale making in some way.
Hello, do you think I could make a plastic wedge with hand tools? I broke the one that was on the razor I was unpinning.
Yes, I have made wedges from plastics with hand tools
@@lewisrazors do you use the same tools to cut plastic and wood?
yes, the same tools, it just goes slower, and is kinda of a pia but it is doable. I also like to scrape plastic a bit to reduce sanding, I use a single edge razor blade to scrape with.
Thanks 4 yours video,Mr Lewis
I have watched this video at least 12 times. still learning from it. shellac do you normally use that over any other finish such as tung oil , tru oil, ca ?
I would use shellac or tru oil, probably not both. I mix my own shellac, I usually use button lac.
Thank you for the video, really helpful. What type of glue did you use to secure the wedge? Thanks again, the completed project turned out terrific.
+Nate Fair Any kind of glue will work. I have used white glue, yellow glue, super glue, and epoxy. All the glues will work it just depends on what is handy.
Thank you!
What kind of glue did you use for the wedge? I noticed you switched from the elmers you used at the beginning to hold the two pieces together to something with a purple label.
Deuce Rogers I think I used some medium thickness super glue. You can use whatever kind of glue, or not even glue in the wedge at all.
How did you finish your scales? I used a stain and lacquer, but I am not confident they will hold up well under daily use.
dm0ney182 In the video I used shellac. If I were you I would use my lacquered scales and not worry about it. If the finish does fail over time make some new scales are refinsih them with a more durable finish. Varnish is a little more durable of a finish.
I used shellac for the video. Wipe on polyurethane is another easy to use finish. Tru-oil is another easy to use finish.