Love this spot, I usually go to the bigger lot and walk down the far ramp because I find the waves to be more powerful. Strong current throughout this whole spot though a lot
This was me yesterday at Pismo. It was at 12 seconds, took all my energy to just get out, and by the time I recovered and caught my first wave, I then got caught on the inside and had to do it all over again. It felt like the waves never stopped coming at me. Managed to work hard for a handful of waves overall, but man, did I get worked. I was watching this video and laughing out loud in empathy. I feel like the fatigue factor and working to maintain positioning in the water is by biggest barrier to progress these days. And my fitness level is high. Maybe it's just part of the process?
Def paddling and paddling technique is a huge factor in surfing. It just takes time and consistency. I used to surf everyday for a couple decades, but the last 4 years I’ve been working construction in NC Appalachia for 9 months and then going back home to SoCal to just chill and surf for 3 months during winter. First few sessions are brutal but after a week of going everyday, I get it back. I’ve seen people like water polo players and gym rats that are super fit struggle hard when they tried surfing, couldn’t paddle to save their lives.
@@Akooks for sure! I've checked out some of Rob Case's paddling technique stuff, and it's helped relieve rotator cuff stress and make it a little easier. Some days in Cali are just tough, no matter how strong you are. I quickly learned that surfing fit is a different category of fitness.
Worry less about that guy on the shoulder way down the line on that wave. You were so worried about him that you ignored the pocket and raced down towards him without doing anything in the pocket.
Love this spot, I usually go to the bigger lot and walk down the far ramp because I find the waves to be more powerful. Strong current throughout this whole spot though a lot
This was me yesterday at Pismo. It was at 12 seconds, took all my energy to just get out, and by the time I recovered and caught my first wave, I then got caught on the inside and had to do it all over again. It felt like the waves never stopped coming at me. Managed to work hard for a handful of waves overall, but man, did I get worked. I was watching this video and laughing out loud in empathy. I feel like the fatigue factor and working to maintain positioning in the water is by biggest barrier to progress these days. And my fitness level is high. Maybe it's just part of the process?
Def paddling and paddling technique is a huge factor in surfing. It just takes time and consistency. I used to surf everyday for a couple decades, but the last 4 years I’ve been working construction in NC Appalachia for 9 months and then going back home to SoCal to just chill and surf for 3 months during winter. First few sessions are brutal but after a week of going everyday, I get it back. I’ve seen people like water polo players and gym rats that are super fit struggle hard when they tried surfing, couldn’t paddle to save their lives.
@@Akooks for sure! I've checked out some of Rob Case's paddling technique stuff, and it's helped relieve rotator cuff stress and make it a little easier. Some days in Cali are just tough, no matter how strong you are. I quickly learned that surfing fit is a different category of fitness.
When does the "firing off" begin?
Lol thought I was the only one that heard the “firing off” comment 😂
time for a fresh wax job i reckon. waves have been fun lately!
Where is this????😮😮😮😊
It's a pretty unknown spot in LA, goes by la porta I think
@@keeandoesbro don’t give away the secret spot!!
keep your left arm up will help maintain speed
your doing good bro
Worry less about that guy on the shoulder way down the line on that wave. You were so worried about him that you ignored the pocket and raced down towards him without doing anything in the pocket.
Haha getting chirpy over 2’ slop. Must be in SoCal.
The other guy probably saw him blow it on a few of those waves and was like I’m going anyways lol
How long you been surfing for?
Been on a shortboard for about 5 months, surfing under a year.