Making a jig file
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this video, I do a complete walkthrough of how I use a jig to repeat a product while minimizing the setup time.
To set the "return to" location, watch this video- • Setting the "return to...
For templates that I have made, check out my Etsy shop. I build files for projects and tools for the XTool D1.
www.etsy.com/s...
This jig is now available in my Etsy store for download- www.etsy.com/l...
The links contained in this description are affiliate links that will direct you to products used in this video. If you use this link for a purchase, I will receive a commission from the purchase. I remain unbiased and honest in my assessment as always.
XTool Website
www.xtool.com/...
Amazon links
D1 bundle that I have on Amazon:
amzn.to/3sJRPMC
4 inch square coasters on Amazon
amzn.to/3NEnXJs - Навчання та стиль
Great content and video! Thanks for putting up with the flies to make it through. I am new to LightBurn, so this helps a lot. I’ll be making jigs for everything starting with my coasters!
Glad it helps, thanks for watching. Hit that subscribe button for more.
What type of board, thickness & size. (I have an extension) do you use for your jiggy jigs? 🤔
1/4 inch plywood. 4mm or thicker
@@TheClackShack interesting glad I asked! I thought it would have been more in the range of 3 mm 1/8. As so the laser wouldn't hit the board. Say if I were doing coasters at 3mm thick, or 5mm keychain. And I guess it depends on the project being done?
c o o l
Thanks
Great video as always. I do have a suggestion to save a lot of time when making multiples of the same design.
When creating the array for the jig, make note of the rows, columns and distances X and Y within the art file, even engrave on the jig if you like. When it's time to replicate art for engraving, place the first logo, scale and center over the first cutout you created when making the jig.
Then use the matrix function on the logo with specifics noted (rows, columns and distances X and Y). In this manner, you only need to center the first design element, Lightburn does the rest.
I use the array function to build jigs and on multiple designs, I also use it occasionally do deploy the image to be burned. Many of my designs have multiple variants and sometimes I just do one row at a time. Thanks though....
I ordered your fixtures and i like them very much. Could you go throw how to setup the absolute
coordinate and the return to X1 Y1 position, I have been using current position.
I hope this helps..... ua-cam.com/video/G9Mh--nr_5E/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I was having trouble getting the laser go to the correct spot when cutting the jig. After watching your video, I noticed that in Lightburn, my “Start From” was not set to Absolute Positioning. Once I changed that I was cooking with Crisco. Thanks.
Glad I could help
@TheClackShack I am making a jig for leather patches. My cut line is turned off and my tool shapes are individually locked. However, when I use the centering tool, it seems to center with where the finger tabs would be placed, not the center of the tool line even though that’s turned off and the tool doesn’t include the finger tabs only the cut line (which again is turned off. What am I doing wrong?
I am assuming in lightburn?
It is going to frame the most outward line in the design. Turn off the "FRAME" switch on any layers that you do not want to frame.
After you create you jig, how to you bring in several lightburn files to make 5 or so designs. When i try to bring in more than 1 the design on the screen is replaced with the new lightburn file. Thanks.
Use import not open
I purchased your jig files, what speed, wood setting do you use, I have 3mm 12x12 wood from amazon.
Thank you, Ed
I use 16x16 squares of 4.5 mm (1/4 inch) luan that I get at the hardware store. I try to run around 6mm/s with air and as many passes as needed to get a clean drop.
I hope that helps..
How did you make your original jig that is attached to the table??
I built it in lightburn, I sell the file in my etsy shop. www.etsy.com/TheClackShack/listing/1229695807/interchangeable-jig-kit-xtool-d1-and-pro?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1672440836135
Love the videos! I've gotten your jig set. Cut the main part that attatches to the xtool and a bunch of the large and extra large jig blanks. Not apparently getting how to line everything up. For example I did a series of inch and a half holes in a large jig for some wooden nickles. Can't seem to figure out how to get everything lined up correctly to just drop the wood disks into the holes and engrave
You need to create a file to cut the holes, change the line to a tool line and then use the tool line to center. Make sure you start from the same location every time. The key is for everything to be the same every time. Same starting spot, jig physically held in same place and the file used to create the jig stays the same also.
I am having this same issue. I'm sure its something simple I'm doing wrong.
@@jimstephens2487 Do not burn the panel and the jig holes at the same time. Always start from HOME location. ua-cam.com/video/xFMSkBqQXh4/v-deo.html
Great info again. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Thank you for all of your help.
Ed
Glad to help. Thanks
What material is the actual jig consist of? Thanks
I use 1/4 inch luan. You can use any plywood
@@TheClackShack thanks so much…really appreciate your immediate response and love your videos…been a big help for me!!
I really appreciate the tool line tip. The original shape is the cut line, correct? The tool line is what you will see and use to line everything thing up with after the cuts? Do you have to worry about the Laser trying to do something with a tool line? Will I have to set it to "No Output" on the file or does.it.juat get ignored? Thanks again for the content and being from NE Louisiana I understand the HEAT and the darn horsefly issue.
Anything set to tool line has no output. You can use layer T1 or T2. Change cuts to tools to make a jig and keep the outline
I had NO CLUE that lil center icon even existed!! thank you!! do you have a video on how you made the "teeth" for your jigs?
No, not at this time.
Hey, great instructional video but I was wondering how do you initially get the jig set on the work area with the exact coordinates? I have seen some that setup a crosshair in each corner of the jig. I did not see that you covered that and that is what I have been struggling with. I can't seem to get the coordinates set correctly and the laser seems to be off just a few mm when I send the laser to the crosshair. This is a very useful feature once I get it figured out. Thanks, Man.
I use home as my reference. Jig is fixed
Ok, now I understand what I've been doing wrong (I think). I will need to cut new jigs as a result. I wasn't cutting the locking template and putting it in the machine and then cutting my jig. Also, I home my machine to the bottom left (X & Y at 0) instead of the back corner of the cutting area. So, If I understand, 1) make the panel to fit the stationary locking jig 2) create my jigs onto that panel with the origin at the homing point 3) save the panel as a jig file.
Hopefully this is right and alleviates my problems of duplicating my burns on circles and square pieces. We shall see. Off to the Atezr P20 I go.
Home is 0-0, I do not change anything about home. I use a return to location.
@TheClackShack What Randy is referring to is the jigsaw puzzle pattern that locks down the location of the jig before cutting out whatever jig template you're trying to create in relation to the machine coordinates. While this video is an excellent start, it doesn't paint the whole picture to making the jig actually work. You left out the part showing that you need to cut the jigsaw locking pattern first, and lock the location of the wood into the stationary jig fixture base.. thats the part of the video that is left out that I am wondering about also.
Ok i have no idea... I followed video.. created template.. burned holes for pen jig.. i then used the tool to line up one of my pens text.. well i haven't changed anything.. doesn't burn on pen.. burns other areas.. any tips? thanks
Did you move the machine by hand after the burn or have it return to Al set location?
@@TheClackShack I moved head to get pcs out of cut area.. but I type in coordinates where it originally started.. and now jig don't line up at all
@@TheClackShack is this a one time use jig? if so I guess I messed up :)
@@jere7782 , No, You make it once and use it as many times as needed. The file can be reused to make more pieces if that is what you are talking about.
@@jere7782 , when you move the head, you are going to have to rehome. Then it depends on the accuracy of the homing. Set a return to location after the cut. Then it will be repeatable.
How do you create the jig with the key slots to snap into the jig holder ?
Very carefully. I sell the files on Etsy to use with the system.
I've got several jigs made but can not wrap my head around how to have them in place and the laser align to the proper spot on the work area. I understand starting from home, but how do I know where to place the shaped to begin with on the work area in lightburn?
You cut all the pieces out, fasten them together and to the machine. Add item shape to work area and place it. Burn item file then turn that cut to a tool line for framing.
@@TheClackShack I got that part, it's understanding how to get the coordinates correct so my laser finds the coasters when coming from home that is getting me.
@@johndeaux9987 if you do it my way, home is your starting spot. I use this method on every machine I test and it works well as long as the machine is consistent.
@@TheClackShack maybe I made the jigs wrong .....in hind sight, maybe I should cut the blank, then attach it to the laser, then make the cut outs for coasters etc? I made the jig and cutouts all at once. Thanks for the replies and help
@@johndeaux9987 yes, it needs to be installed before cutting the item shapes.
Love this idea! Is it possible to do all this with the free software that comes with the xtool?
Not sure, I just use lightburn.
Some great Clactical information. Thanx
Glad it was helpful! Thanks..
I have purchased all of your jig files and I am going to be cutting them out today but I am not sure what kind of wood you are using for the jig.
4 mm or thicker is recommended. You could use thinner but could have warping
@@TheClackShack thank you so much for getting back to me
I’m still trying to figure out how you got your art library window to be up like yours….
I will try to drop a video, need to get some use out of this software.
ua-cam.com/video/CkfjzwzJyxU/v-deo.html
I got my air assist installed and it makes a world of difference. You will see how much work it saves you not having to sand off all the soot.
Dave
I think it will help for sure.
@@TheClackShack Can I include a photo of a burn I did today with and without air assist.
Sure