3D Print - My First HO Train Car
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- FINALLY success with my first 3D printed train car!!
With the addition of a smooth plate and additional rafts for support, I was able to print the body in PC and the bottom in ABS. I will probably redo the bottom and add details along the way.
Next I will try printing the trucks...not sure how that will work out.
Edited with Davinci Resolve
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Pixel 4a
Pixel 7a
DJI Osmo Mobile 3
I wish I could have started my train layout with a 3D printer. Talk about consistent cars!
Me too...(he he)
Brims work, nice job.
Thanks 👍
You can spray some "aquanet" hair spray on the plate. There area also more expensive options from a few 3D printing accessory companies. I've been using hair spray with great results. Also, letting the objects cool slowly while still stuck to the plate can help a lot with preventing post printing warping.
I used AquaNet back in the 80s & 90s! Are you using an X1? I was hoping that the controlled, enclosure would remedy the need for "glue". But thanks for the suggestion, this is my first printer and still learning - haven't seen hairspray mentioned before.
@@TooManyHobbiesNotEnoughTime Still have to use glue, or better yet the liquid nano polymer adhesive, works wonders. Myself and my X1c I use good old ordinary glue stick and use the orcaslicer with mouse ears for corners, no failures yet and works well, but ABS/ASA NEED to cool to room temp before you open door, it has to finish hardening or it will warp
I have a X1C and I use cheap extra hold hairspray on the plate. I have the smooth finish plate and it really needs the hairspray stickiness. I have used gluesticks on other printers in the past and find hairspray works alot better.
Glad you got better results. Any reason you are choosing to use ABS over PLA or Petg? Both of those are easier to print.
If these are for indoor use they shouldn't get to hot so pla should work and its a lot easier to print with. Petg is also a lot easier and can handle higher temps.
For small thin pieces a raft or brim often helps or even adding 1 layer Micky mouse ears to the corners or points.
ABS and PC - I want durable parts that can withstand some abuse. These are the initial prints to get myself accustomed to printing with this machine. Projects that I have slated include parts for tractors and the like, that will be left in the elements for the duration. They may not need strength (like carbon fiber) but need to handle the elements.
I appreciate the advice and the exchange.
one mor thing to add moisture in filament can also affect how it prints, this can lead to blobs and stringing, so since you did indicate you were having some of that you may want to try drying the filament. if you don't have a dryer just put it on your heated bed for a hour or so.
Oils on the print bed also affect lifting. ISO doesn't really clean oils off that well, use some soapy water to wash ( i just use soapy water from hand soap) then rinse water and follow up with the Isopropanol.
I do still use glue (I use the Aqua net as I find its easy to apply and works really well) Also resist the erg to run your hand over the plate to remove dust/debris as that deposits oils back onto the plate.
Didn't see if you pre-heated the chamber I find that helps with ABS (i just turn on the heated bed for 10 min before, or you can warm it up with a hair dryer)
little things like that can help with ABS, PC and Nylon.
I mostly print with PLA just because it easier and for what i print i don't need the properties of the other materials, That being said i have printed a lot of ABS and PC when i did need those properties and pre-warming helped a lot.
for PC filament i have found that if it has Carbon fiber in it the parts warps less but you do need hardened nozzle (haven't had any issues with the softer gears though) that may transfer over to ABS as well but i haven't used a CF-ABS filament.
I ran the filament through the drying cycle on X1E Carbon and I store it in a gasket sealed container with Dessicant. Thanks for the suggestions.
@@TooManyHobbiesNotEnoughTimeI don’t suggest using CF for prints like this. It’s overkill, and not a very human friendly product to use, it will shed microscopic splinters of CF (similar to fiberglass) that get under your skin and are impossible to remove, even after sanding it smooth. Not until you paint it with a final coat will it be safe to handle without gloves. Also, always wear a respirator when sanding no matter what material you’re working with. 🤜🏼🤛🏼