ONE HOUR STUCCO REPAIR
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2021
- French door rigid insulation board stucco repair demonstration
Ask if you have any questions or suggestions on how to do this better. As many of you know I am a seasoned plasterer, lathing and plaster contractor since 1991. In the early days it was much different than it is today. Seems many things are different that they were yesteryear. Let me give you a few examples.
For one, a hod carrier is called a hod carrier because he's was the one who would carry an aluminum built v shaped bucket on his shoulders up a ladder to the brick layers or plasterers above. Today the hod is a thing of the past. Fast forward a few years. Home Depot and the Homer bucket. wallah the new way to carry mud up a ladder. Yet the bucket is much harder to carry, go figure. I guess the production line on hods fell to new lows over the years. Now new hoodies don't really even know what a hod is. Nor will you see brown stucco when we do the brown coat.
A second example is the use of furring nails. Long long ago our wire was made flat, much like chicken wire. Until the invention of self furred wire and pneumatic nail guns and 7/8" staples, lathers had to use what's called furred nails to space the wire away from the wall so mud could be squeezed behind wire lath. Today wire comes self furred and days of the furring nail are all but gone.
A third example of change over the years is what I believe holds true too many plasterers but not all is the interest of the beauty of conventional stucco. Now granted acrylic stucco will expand and contract with the system and inhibit extensive cracking. Acrylic is also a beautiful finish. When acrylic dries after its initial application it can be a beautiful wall. In fact it is so pretty that you would almost think it was painted. Acrylic stucco comes in any color of the spectrum and can be matched to specifications within 90% of its sample color. this is something that is hard to achieve with conventional stucco. What is the drawback and I bet you are saying to yourself what is Ken trying to say here. Well here it is guys. This is what I think about acrylics. All that I have written above plus this. However there is an even keel when it comes to cost. Because regular (conventional stucco cracks and some people are adamant that stucco isn't supposed to crack. Well these people are just misinformed. You see, stucco is supposed to crack. Its just not supposed to burn, it insulates well and the termites won't eat it. It goes the same for acrylics yes. But here is the thing. Regular conventional stucco is under rated. Once you truly understand art, and I will add that it doesn't take much to learn art, it's the yearning for art that will define who you are and tell you what you want to see. Acrylics are flat, no character, in fact it looks like it was painted on. Whereas regular stucco is natural. regular stucco comes from the earth and so do its colors. Not like acrylic who's colors are made in a factory in St Louis. They are both beautiful finish cladding for residential and commercial applications. The choice is yours. Which would you rather have on your dream home? Acrylic stucco? or Conventional stucco? - Розваги
Thank you for showing all the products that you use. Makes it easier for us novices when we are at the hardware store to know exactly what to get. Thank you for a great video - very helpful.
Thank you! I will do my best to show whatever I can
Masterful work and extra masterful with one handed video taping.
Very, very nice. Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff, Ken. Thanks for sharing.
Ken, are you familiar with the term ( water table )?
In past years, all window and doors had a water table installed on top, regardless as to wether there was a siding or stucco application.
I was also referred to as a drip edge.
Modern windows and doors rely on a nailing flange which is a part of the vinyl or aluminum covering.
Your method relys on that to seal water infiltration, and it only seals for infiltration down to that.
The bands of coarse add another layer of protection, but is it possible for water to infiltrate from behind the banding?
Frankly the problem and the solution isnt completely yours, as the windows and doors themselves can be an issue if not treated properly.
The best approach is a separate water table above all windows and doors for all siding or stucco applications on frame walls.
Today, the best material for that is aluminum, bent to shape on a brake, same as used for making aluminum facia covering.
It is made so as to cover 3 inches or so of the wall above the opening, then across the top of the window trim and then a slight bend downward just past the face of the window. Its best to make the edge a double by using the brake to fold over about 1/4” at the exposed edge.
Then the felt paper installed and the wire over the part that is on the wall sheathing down to the crease.
I have seen failures in the factory window trim causing leakage from above.
Some manufacturers apply the nailing flange as a separate item, creating a built in leak situation without using a water table to prevent it.
Ive been out of the loop long enough not to realize there could be vinyl products that could be used as well for that purpose.
Where the windows are recessed into a block wall of coarse the water table above them isnt necessary.
Leakage above windows and doors can sometimes be difficult to stop.
I had a block 2 story home with a bow window on the first floor of a gable end wall.
I had a copper roof installed over the projection of the bay window with the copper bent up onto the block about 3”.
I nailed wire lath over that, and put 2 coats of stucco over it.
If we had a hard driving rain for a full day from that direction, that window would leak from above.
I later painted the house over the stucco, that helped the leak situation, but not entirely if it lasted for prolonged periods.
Had i counter flashed by cutting into the block say 1/2” above where the copper ran up the wall, then applied another layer of copper into the cut and bent down over, it would have been a better solution.
But we cant just rely on the stucco to prevent water infiltration, even if it been painted.
Flashing is the best solution, up the wall and out over the trim in one piece, thats really all a water table is.
Good job
You mentioned being lucky enough to have plywood underneath but in Phoenix AZ in the 1980s they did the blue foam directly over the studs without any tar paper! There was also no window flashing or anything just the foam and the wire latch and stucco lol.
Wow. I’ve heard of Az not using any paper. In 2021 I bought a home in Casa Grande. It’s being rented now. I wonder if it has paper behind the foam. And I wonder if it’s blue. It was built in 1987
@@AbersonPlastering yeah, I would guess that it’s just foam over studs. Nowadays the standards have been changed and every new house has tar paper and full window flashing. My last house was built in 1997 and had a layer of black tar paper behind the white foam but none of the windows had any flashing and one of them leaked horribly every time it rained hard.
@@everythinghomerepair1747 exactly what my windows do when it rains hard. I’m guessing there is no flashing around the windows. I don’t even know about the substrate. As you are aware, I am a stucco contractor and should know this, however the stucco is in really great shape. But the t111 on gable ends don’t have any paper either. Weird/wild
When you put the peel and stick in, how did you tie it in at the ends, the paper going down the sides, is it under the flashing you added? That’s always tricky for m🤦🏼♂️
Hi Dan. We definitely need to make our initial razor slice go far enough out the sides at the top to bypass the nailing flange on the sides. Then be sure our flashing is as far out as our slice. It’s probably a good idea to squirt a bit of caulk right in the corners for insurance.
Ken, is there a way to apply a cementitious material of stucco to pre-existing acrylic stucco? Or does the existing acrylic stucco have to be removed? Please ask any questions if you’re unsure of what I’m asking.
Hi Todd, Cementitious? Well when we say cementitious, we are talking about both expandable and conventional cement. I think it is an excellent question. Because my first thought was of course, but I really had to think about it. We did it before. Here is how. You would use a product like Sto or polybond cementitious coating to go directly over the acrylic.leveling it out as best you can which btw will be minimus because the product is self leveling. Then use either regular stucco loaded with white adhesive or you can use acrylic stucco. Maybe try a small area first to confirm. Best, Ken