Hey Brotha. Fellow Plasterer here🤙🏻. Just wanted to say, nice Primus scoop, and your trowel technique is good. With code here and quite frankly all stucco repairs there are two key ingredients you need to apply. First, bonding agent and make sure you're wire is reattached. Second, use expansion caulking or there will be a crack ALL the way around what you repaired. My Brother. I love the video and your editing. Your on your way. Much love dude. Live long and Plaster!🖖🏻❤️
Hi. I remember you sort of. You were older than me. Raymond white and Randy Berg knew you more. You were always referred to as Hurley. “ Let’s go see Hurley”
Hi Mark sorry for late reply. I often just use the pre mixed brown mud to texture over the brown base coat. I don’t always use finish. It depends on if I can get the size of the grain of sands to match
Really cool. Can you please list all the materials that you used. I was wondering if I could used it over on cement board an drywall with no lath, just bonding agent.
Yes you sure can. Spray all your joints with adhesive and apply 2” mesh tape. Skim a cementitious base coat on then let it dry. Then apply your desired acrylic finish. By the way the cementitious base coat would be polybond or Dryvit, sto, synergy something like that that would be suitable for an acrylic finish. Good luck
Yes sometimes on smaller jobs we flip the wire over so it doesn’t curl outward. On this since it’s open stud construction there is plenty of room for mud to get behind the wire. As another comment said “good catch”
Great tradesman' much better than the show off with the white shirt just does his job and well been doing this for 45 years in Glasgow u can get a job anytime
neoprene float vs steel float or wood float - pros cons - please and thank you in advance Also - everything was bag mixed - all the same rapid set for Scratch brown and finish? Finsh with bonding agent made finsh white? or was finish a different product?
You only need the rapid set for the scratch unless you are going to put a finish stucco on the same day. Steel trowel float is the fastest but only acrylic finish suitable. Otherwise a neoprene float is best for regular stucco. You can’t find a good wood float though. We used to use the #1 wood shingles floats that we made for floating the brown coat. The wood floats work well on brown coat that is still slightly wet. But an experienced pro can use a neo float over slightly wet brown by pulling up on the wall only up direction never down or sideways. Green sponge floats are great for floating wet brown. But when brown starts to dry use neoprene. Don’t wait too long. Use a trowel in other hand to scrape high spots. Try not to leave the area to open. We need to close the brown, tighten it up not open it up. Float walls first then use a rod to level the wall and gently float again. Bonding agent only slightly changes the color of the finish.
@@AbersonPlastering thanks we almost always have used steel on brown after we 48" darby it... on lime plaster inside we used the green neos...before we burn it in with steel .. we have never really done rapid set patches - yet - and to be clear the finish coat was a 1:2 sand cement with bonding agent? I ask because it looked white... we use lots of eifs finish as the finish - so scratch brown elastomeric with sand and color as a finish... I really enjoyed watching you two just get it done in 4 hours... i need guys that will hump like that every day.... thanks again
The quikrete bonding agent is the best, do not get the Silka brand its more watery & doesn't work in my opinion, tried it 2 different times did not adhere anything.
I just had two guys come out and put on the scratch and brown base coat. It's not smooth and they left little spots here and there with no stucco. They also left a corner with the plywood and lath exposed. Said that they will have to come back and put a corner bead before the finish.
We did. Paper is under and over moistop. There is no inspection so no one needs to see the moistop. Paper is also under and over on sides of window. Thanks for checking in!
👍🏻 just had windows stuccoed around and sand texture entire wall but 3 days later some cracks mostly from corners. Could that have been prevented? It was a textured finish previously.
Hi Garret, It has been from my experience that cracks in the existing will transfer through the other two coats of finish, especially if the project has been refinished prior. Existing homes may have a stretchy paint that conceals cracks, then when we plaster over the stretchy paint with bonding agent applied to wall, the new stucco cannot hold up to the movement in the wall. Windows and doors and any other openings, like ventilation vents or foundation vents invite cracks from corners. All that is left for you to do is caulk and paint. That is truly the best solution now. Or live with it knowing it is natural for stucco to crack and cracking does not necessarily mean your contractor did a bad job. Thanks for watching my vids. I would love to have your subscription. Ken
@@AbersonPlastering they were new windows and short wall below window kind of like in your video. I was thinking maybe not enough elasticity in the new stucco by not adding acrylic to the mix but maybe not.
@@garretdouglas4056 In this video above we only used the acrylic bonder in the finish coat to help it stick. It probably has a slight resistance to cracking, but its main use is like a glue to help it stick to everything. And there is more here than I could put into one video. The lathing installation could be a suspect, but you would need pictures but then its only stucco. Main concerns would be leaking. Its supposed to storm here in Nor cal on Sunday. Look for leaks
You did ok but you mest up on your second sheet of paper it should have been under the moiststop on the bottom of window and then other side amd too was ok and was suppose to be over the moiststop
Hi Mike. 1 bag fast set stucco from lowes to 1 bag pre mixed regular stucco plus enough water to make it spreadable. Using a high speed drill/mixer works wonders
Amazing video im currently working on my backyard patio door upgrade and requires stucco work this video is very helpful thanks for uploading
@@carlitosinvegas6015 I wish you the best in your endeavors. Subscribe if you haven’t already so you won’t miss any future tips
Hey Brotha. Fellow Plasterer here🤙🏻.
Just wanted to say, nice Primus scoop, and your trowel technique is good.
With code here and quite frankly all stucco repairs there are two key ingredients you need to apply. First, bonding agent and make sure you're wire is reattached.
Second, use expansion caulking or there will be a crack ALL the way around what you repaired.
My Brother. I love the video and your editing. Your on your way.
Much love dude.
Live long and Plaster!🖖🏻❤️
Awesome thank you!
Ken!! Used to work around you, but never got to actually "watch you work". Glad to see your still the master. Tom H. Master Masonry (ret)
Hi. I remember you sort of. You were older than me. Raymond white and Randy Berg knew you more. You were always referred to as Hurley. “ Let’s go see Hurley”
This is not construction, this is artwork at a high level! I love stucco, I hope it never becomes a lost art.
Super nice video Grtz from the Nederlands
Thank you. It’s nice to see that my video stretched to the other side of the world
Great video thank you
Great video! About to start a similar project on my house.
Thank you Jon. Best of luck to you,
Top notch as always 👍
Quick question Ken. do you have to put a finish coat or could you have textured right over the brown coat?? thanks
Hi Mark sorry for late reply. I often just use the pre mixed brown mud to texture over the brown base coat. I don’t always use finish. It depends on if I can get the size of the grain of sands to match
really like your texture technique. what brand/type of mud do you use for the scratch cote?
Thank you T-bone. We use Home Depot Sakrete mixed with Rapid set stucco.
Really cool. Can you please list all the materials that you used. I was wondering if I could used it over on cement board an drywall with no lath, just bonding agent.
Yes you sure can. Spray all your joints with adhesive and apply 2” mesh tape. Skim a cementitious base coat on then let it dry. Then apply your desired acrylic finish. By the way the cementitious base coat would be polybond or Dryvit, sto, synergy something like that that would be suitable for an acrylic finish. Good luck
Easy money keep it pushing
5:00 the lath is upside down. Great job. The bumps are there to furr out the lath into the stucco.
Good catch
Yes sometimes on smaller jobs we flip the wire over so it doesn’t curl outward. On this since it’s open stud construction there is plenty of room for mud to get behind the wire. As another comment said “good catch”
Good job
Great tradesman' much better than the show off with the white shirt just does his job and well been doing this for 45 years in Glasgow u can get a job anytime
neoprene float vs steel float or wood float - pros cons - please and thank you in advance
Also - everything was bag mixed - all the same rapid set for Scratch brown and finish? Finsh with bonding agent made finsh white? or was finish a different product?
You only need the rapid set for the scratch unless you are going to put a finish stucco on the same day. Steel trowel float is the fastest but only acrylic finish suitable. Otherwise a neoprene float is best for regular stucco. You can’t find a good wood float though. We used to use the #1 wood shingles floats that we made for floating the brown coat. The wood floats work well on brown coat that is still slightly wet. But an experienced pro can use a neo float over slightly wet brown by pulling up on the wall only up direction never down or sideways. Green sponge floats are great for floating wet brown. But when brown starts to dry use neoprene. Don’t wait too long. Use a trowel in other hand to scrape high spots. Try not to leave the area to open. We need to close the brown, tighten it up not open it up. Float walls first then use a rod to level the wall and gently float again. Bonding agent only slightly changes the color of the finish.
@@AbersonPlastering thanks we almost always have used steel on brown after we 48" darby it... on lime plaster inside we used the green neos...before we burn it in with steel .. we have never really done rapid set patches - yet - and to be clear the finish coat was a 1:2 sand cement with bonding agent? I ask because it looked white... we use lots of eifs finish as the finish - so scratch brown elastomeric with sand and color as a finish... I really enjoyed watching you two just get it done in 4 hours... i need guys that will hump like that every day.... thanks again
Yeah gotcha. The finish coat on this is actually either a 20/30 or a 16/20 finish product from a bag. Thanks for checking in and Merry Christmas.
What's the difference between scratch mud, brown mud and finish mud? Thanks
Hi and thanks for reaching out. The products are the same. They can be adjusted as necessary. Thanks for Chiming in
The quikrete bonding agent is the best, do not get the Silka brand its more watery & doesn't work in my opinion, tried it 2 different times did not adhere anything.
Thanks for sharing!
I just had two guys come out and put on the scratch and brown base coat. It's not smooth and they left little spots here and there with no stucco. They also left a corner with the plywood and lath exposed. Said that they will have to come back and put a corner bead before the finish.
There are many fly by night guys doing this work. Be careful in your selection there is a reason they call them Con tractors
Why didn’t you put the paper under the moiststop at the bottom of the window
We did. Paper is under and over moistop. There is no inspection so no one needs to see the moistop. Paper is also under and over on sides of window. Thanks for checking in!
A1
great video lad . you should consider uploading more videos to your channel eh ?
Thank you Ernesto. I am. I have fresh stuff coming. It’s exciting! Next video is foam stucco trim install from beginning to end.
@@AbersonPlastering glad to hear that !! Thx
👍🏻 just had windows stuccoed around and sand texture entire wall but 3 days later some cracks mostly from corners. Could that have been prevented? It was a textured finish previously.
Hi Garret, It has been from my experience that cracks in the existing will transfer through the other two coats of finish, especially if the project has been refinished prior. Existing homes may have a stretchy paint that conceals cracks, then when we plaster over the stretchy paint with bonding agent applied to wall, the new stucco cannot hold up to the movement in the wall.
Windows and doors and any other openings, like ventilation vents or foundation vents invite cracks from corners.
All that is left for you to do is caulk and paint. That is truly the best solution now. Or live with it knowing it is natural for stucco to crack and cracking does not necessarily mean your contractor did a bad job. Thanks for watching my vids. I would love to have your subscription. Ken
@@AbersonPlastering they were new windows and short wall below window kind of like in your video. I was thinking maybe not enough elasticity in the new stucco by not adding acrylic to the mix but maybe not.
@@garretdouglas4056 In this video above we only used the acrylic bonder in the finish coat to help it stick. It probably has a slight resistance to cracking, but its main use is like a glue to help it stick to everything. And there is more here than I could put into one video. The lathing installation could be a suspect, but you would need pictures but then its only stucco. Main concerns would be leaking. Its supposed to storm here in Nor cal on Sunday. Look for leaks
What bonding agent do you use recommend. Thanks MJ'S Stucco And Plaster
You did ok but you mest up on your second sheet of paper it should have been under the moiststop on the bottom of window and then other side amd too was ok and was suppose to be over the moiststop
Even Eddie Van Halen made mistakes. Rip
Whats the special recipe in the scratch
Hi Mike. 1 bag fast set stucco from lowes to 1 bag pre mixed regular stucco plus enough water to make it spreadable. Using a high speed drill/mixer works wonders