Mercedes W220 (S500, S430, S320) Air Conditioning (A/C) Service - full video
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- This video contains all the 5 videos I published in the last two weeks starting from removing the wiper system, replacing the expansion valve, replacing the receiver/drier; and, charging the AC system with fresh refrigerant and adding PAG46 oil, to installing the wiper system.
Should you be interested only in parts of the job, here are the links:
Part 1 - Remove the Wiper System: • Mercedes W220 AC Servi...
Part 2 - Replace the Expansion Valve: • Mercedes W220 AC Servi...
Part 3 - Replace the Receiver Drier: • Mercedes W220 AC Servi...
Part 4 - Charge the system with Refrigerant (R134-a) and add PAG46 oi: • Mercedes W220 AC Servi...
Part 5 -Install the Wiper System: • Mercedes W220 AC Servi...
Nissens Technical Poster:
nissens.showpad.com/share/iXa...
You can do this job for little money compared to what a shop would charge (probably over $2,000. Here are the part and tools I have used:
Tools/Items Used:
AACM O.E.M. AC Expansion Valve P/N: 2308300184 - $21 - Autohausaz
ACM A/C Receiver Drier P/N: 2208300083 - $28 - Autohausaz
Santech A/C O-Ring Kit P/N: SH-227598634 - $27 - Autohausaz
R-134A Refrigrant - 3x12oz Cans (950g) - $36 from Autozone
A/C Manifold Guage Set - $40 from Amazon and others (may include can tap)
Hex Socket Set, Reverse Torx (E) Socket Set.Socket Extension Set, Light,
Towels, Wrenches, Torque Wrench, Gloves, Eyeglasses, Screwdrivers,
Scale, Needle Nose Pliers, Picks, R124a Can Tap,
Automotive Plastic Fastener Kit, 240 Pieces - $14 - Harbor Freight
Long reach Hose Grip Pliers - set of 3 - $15 - Harbor Freight
Trim And Molding Tool Set, 5 Piece - set of 5 - $6 - Harbor Freight
Wobble Socket Extension Set, 9 Piece - $15 - Harbor Freight
PAG 46 oil - 8oz - $12 - Advance Auto
VIVOHOME 110V 1/2 HP 5 CFM Dual Stage Rotary Vane HVAC Air Vacuum Pump with Oil Bottle - $129 - Amazon
Jack and jack stands or Ramps
Prices above are as of May 2023 - Авто та транспорт
hello masood.the video is absolutely fantastic! the detail shots and explanations are excellent. Best regards from Germany .👍👍👍🔧🔧Michael.
Thanks very much, Mercedesdriver2012.
Could you give more details how to change the system from R744 to R134a ?
Masood, thank you for the response. my system was working great until the pulley and clutch broke off and damaged the pulley mount. Would this situation need a flush, 2005 115K.
Well, it is hard to tell if nothing broke inside the compressor. I would say, yes, to be on the safe side and not to have to recharge.
99 out of 100 times the valves at the high and low ports leak after a few years. Not changing these at this point is missing an opportunity to correct a leak that is always overlooked. It will even show that it holds a vacuum because the ports are closed off with the connectors when doing the vacuum so the valve leak does not show up.
You are making a very good point. Thanks. I wish I had the correct Schrader valves to replace them. But, at the time, I didn't. However, I do own the adapters to replace them later if they leak without having to evacuate the freon again. I too would recommend to replace the valves as part of this job.
Hi masood i got a 2000 mercedes s500 and my ac completely dosnt work or heater what would you think the problem is i really dont wanna take it to a mercedes company cus they gonna charge a arm and a leg so i been tryna watch as much videos as possible to do it my self
Hi, please elaborate. Does the blower turn on? Does the compressor turn? Does the radiator fan wirk? Does the system have enough refrigrant? You have to check everything methodically. I suggest you at least have it diagnosed.
What was the reason for replacing the expansion valve? Any specific symptoms? I have a w220 s500 where the high and low side are the exact same pressure.
Hello, I replaced it because it wasn't for 23 years. The AC wasn't cooling like it used to. Even with a closed system like the AC, some refrigrant escapes over time. In 23 years, enough not to cool as before. I vacuumed the system because I wanted to charge the system with the exact MB specified amount of refrigrant. The expansion valve is very cheap, and the receuver drier should be replaced at least once every 10 years, in my opinion . But, definitely, if the expansion valve or any other AC component is replaced. I hope this answers your question.
Masood when do you recommend flushing the system and how?
Hi, the best occasion to flush would be after removing the expansion valve as you would have access to both inlet and outlet of the evaporator housing inside the dash. Of course, you must flish the lines and everything else if the compressor or the condensor have gone bad. As to the how of it, please search youtube. Perhaps, I would make a video when I do it next time.
Did you change the cabin filter
Not this time, but do on a set schedule...
So my 2003 S430 has developed a leak I presume, and my orange light is on so the AC doesn't work. Where are the possible places it could be leaking? The lines going into the dryer and the expansion valve are 2 areas and I assume the compressor? Are there more places that are leak prone? Is it smart to replace the o-rings on the compressor when you're replacing the other o-rings on the dryer and expansion valve? Thanks for your help and thanks for the video, which was very well done.
Thanks. Schrader valves, all connection points, lines, etc... it is best you add some dye, and then look for it. Search youtube please for the process.
Is there a shop who can do it for reasonable price in Bay Area , California?
Hi Sukhbir Bajwa - I am sure there are plenty in the Bay area. However, I don't live there and could not tell you who charges a reasonable price. Please shop around.
And?? What were the results of all this? What kind of temperatures were you getting at the vents? My 01 S430 cannot cool better than 60f at idle on a 95f day. Cools better when driving. I Even recharged after vacuum and still, that's coldest at idle. Pressures look fine. Should i replace the dryer and expansion valve to get better performance? Or is it time to replace the condenser after 23 years?
Well - I got a 10 degree F improvement. In high 80's and 50% humidity, the inside vents read 35 to 36 degrees. When outside temp is in the high 90s with similiar humidity, I can get 42 to 45 degrees from center vents. After 23 years, if you have never replaced the receiver/drier and the expansion valve, replace those first. If not much better afterwards, then replace the compressor and condenser.
@@masood-tv makes sense. Thank you for the response. I have to double check that all the fans are working as well.
My pleasure. Absolutely. Check the fans first. I presumed you alreasy had. 60 degrees is unacceptable. It shouldn't go above 50.
Masood, followed your procedures, after charging up first can of freon low pressure reads 110/high pressure 110 and clutch does not seem to engage, any suggestions? no codes
Hi Edward, could you please elaborate. How was the AC performing before? Was the compressor/clutch working?
@@masood-tv yes, the pulley and clutch disintegrated so I replaced the compressor because of shaft damage, and dryer. I found no debris in lines and compressor was still rotating smoothly. I vacuumed out the system after changing shraeder valves. At half can of freon started engine and ac, low pressure rose to 100 psi and high pressure to 100psi. compressor clutch fails to come on but fan does come on.
I think your system is either overcharged or there is a blockage somewhere. Please click in the description on the Nissens link which explains the various pressure variances between the low and high sides.
@@masood-tv I think we found the issue, the wire connection on the compressor. looks like a green single wire connecting to the red single compressor wire, but the connection won't click together and hold. Is this the correct connection. I can't find any other....
It depends on the compressor. In some off brand ones, there is a single red wire and another ground wire that is connected to a nut on the compressor.
That kinda makes sense, usually when both pressure numbers are the same, it is because of the compressor not working, but the numbers are usually close to the ambient temp. Besides, I had thought since you had replaced the unit, you must have first confirmed it was turning...good luck. Please let me know how it goes. It definitely needs a solid connection to work.
How did you know the expansion valve was bad
Hi, I explain it starting at 12:50 minutes for the next 3 to 5 mins...