please don't use nail polish remover! do not follow this video! you will ruin your items! Use 70% alcohol instead, it's more gentle and won't damage them.!
I find Goof-Off works better than 70% alcohol, but is obviously more expensive and the alcohol you may have just sitting around. Please be careful with any flammable solvent, especially gasoline. Best to work with these outside where the ventilation is good. And don't fill up indoor trash can with used rags or paper towel as those can fill the room with fumes, or catch fire.
@@thecollegepickerPin this comment? You should delete this video! Whilst acetone will work on polyethylene plastics it will actually dissolve polycarbonate plastics!!
Thanks for this video. I used acetone and a cloth and procedure as advised, but even after a lot of rubbing, the plastic was still sticky and looked terrible. I then decided to try a fine steel wool ball and rubbed it until the surface looked smooth and good. I also rubbed the steel wool on the shiny plastic parts affected by the acetone, and this cleaned up brilliantly with no scratches. After completing the above, I applied some oil spray to enhance the plastic's colour and sheen. The remote looks brand new now.
That was the best solution in my experience. Thanks for sharing. I used goof off with the fine steel wool and a magic eraser to clean up after I was all done.
My solution for a Logitech MX1000 mouse with that sticky degraded rubber goo was to take the mouse apart and scrape all the thin rubber coating off with my fingernails. It took a lot of work but I was afraid to use acetone. Rubbing alcohol and a cloth helps rub the last 5% off. Then I use a polish called PEEK Which is made for metal like sink faucets but it works great on hard plastic also. Shines it up nicely.
This is not a circumstance of people just having dirty sticky remotes. This is something from the factory on these remotes. I bought a brand new unopened Logitech remote that was 15 years old. Right as I touched it for the first time it was super sticky on the back. So it’s something they use in the manufacturing process. Thanks for the video. I’ll do this on my BRAND NEW remote :/
Yes, this coating is used to give the plastic a leather satin feel. After many years, it breaks down and gets sticky. It is also happening to the coating on my car dashboard.
Update- I hesitantly tried the acetone and as expected it removed the sticky top surface but ate into the plastic creating more of a mess. It reminded me of using Testors glue on plastic models. So I used alcohol to stop the process and when it dried I scuffed the plastic with a burgundy scotchbrite and painted it. This was on a Denon remote controller.
Dear College Picker, your acetone/nail cleaner hint has just saved my bacon. I have a pair of very expensive hand-held wireless microphones that I will be using tomorrow for a high-paying client. The mics had been getting stickier and stickier and when I checked them just now, they were horrendously revolting to the touch. I used a tightly woven sock and the nail remover. They now look like new and feel better to the touch than they did when I bought them! I followed the acetone up with alcohol and polished them up with the socks. They look and feel great. A thousand thanks.
I know I'm commenting on a old video, but I found success with Rubbing Alcohol (70%), Magic Eraser, and paper towel. Acetone can eat away plastic, so I used rubbing alcohol. 1. Dip the eraser in alcohol and scrub an area for a minute or so. This softens the rubber soft touch coating. 2. Then get a paper towel with a little alcohol and rub the area afterwards to transfer the coating onto the paper towel. 3. Repeat around the different area of the unit.
Rubbing alcohol works also but requires a lot of work, rubbing in one direction. It is also less toxic. The miscreants that design plastic to degrade, so that the consumer must spend more money, need to be flogged.
OMG...this really works...somehow a rubber band got caught on my toaster oven tray and I didn't realize it until I had already put it in the oven to cook something...finally noticed melted rubber band on the metal tray and a couple spots in my sink where I had put the tray...picked off whatever rubber band I could then I used the nail polish remover with acetone and a streak free mirror cloth...worked excellent...thank you so much!!!
i have an old wireless mouse from logitech and was wondering why it was so sticky. i thought that maybe i had put some duct-tape over it at some point, but now i know. gonna get some nail-polish remover and give this a try. thanks!
Oil may work for those who find that acetone doesn't work. Makeup brushes have the same problem and I used mineral oil and a used fabric softener sheet and that worked really well.
Right. I think the coating is an oil-based rubber that is breaking down so I think the standard way of dealing with that is another oil and then probably like Dawn to flush it all away.
Thank You! One of my Bluetooth speaker body was suffering this sticky surface over it & the acetone rub left it non sticky & shiny as a charm. Saved me from the realization of the sticky feeling and the device now looks shinier than before. Really a gadget saver trick!
What worked best for me and this was for some super caked on stickiness, first I used a couple lysol wipes and a slight bit of elbow grease to wipe off the majority of excess until there was basically just a layer that kept getting moved around instead. Once I got to that point I switched to a microfiber cloth and some rubbing alcohol and it came right off.
I know this comment is old, but after getting most of the residue off with the acetone (there was still some stickiness), that 70% alcohol clean and dried it wonderfully! ❤
I was cleaning out my office and found your video. I tried with the acetone and it was a huge mess. ALTERNATE METHOD: The Harmony One's back (disgustingly sticky) cover can be taken off completely. In this age of fixing iPhone screens, I thought this had to be possible and it was. I took my fingernail and pried the top edge on one side. It came up pretty easily. I proceed to do the same with the other side. I have an iFixit spludger (the long pencil thing with a point on one end and an tapered edge on the other) from a previous iphone fix. Once I got the top two edges loose, I pried down each edge. I could hear that there was some sort of tape holding down the bottom edge so once I loosened the edges the best I could I jammed the spludger, tapered edge first from the top to the bottom. I wasn't that gentle with it, so do at your own risk. The adhesive at the bottom of the back plate popped free and off it came! WARNING: there's a clip on the back plate near the bottom that may get broken in the process. Mine broke, but at least it got rid of that horrible sticky back plate. I will continue with the acetone trick and maybe replace the back, but for now I'm happy using it without the back. BTW it is solid plastic underneath so no electronics are exposed.
I found that for stubborn surfaces, a nail guard sponge worked well; where I first used the scotch bright side (w/ acetone) to rough up the rubber surface and then the sponge side to clean up.
I tried liquid dish soap, citrus hand cleaner, then tried alcohol, then spray adhesive remover. Nothing worked. So I will give the acetone a try and thank you in advance. Since the acetone is removing the softened layer of plastic I would expect the plastic coming off will clog the rag pretty quickly so turning to a fresh spot seems necessary. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
Thank You!! Was just about to toss my Harmony One before I saw your video! Feels like new now. Thanks again! BTW, another option is to remove the rubberized grip area from the remote (easily pry off) and then clean and reinstall. You could also try this approach if you wanted to remove ALL the coating down to the base plastic layer which is what I will probably do when my coating becomes sticky again in the future.
You should use Grammarly or some other spell checker, dude. People, try 95%+ isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol first since it is less aggressive. If it doesn't work, try a drop of acetone in an inconspicuous area and verify the plastic is not melted. For instance, ABS plastic can be completely melted by acetone. That will certainly destroy your device.
@MucaroBoricua I wish i tried your method. I tried the acetone and it completely melted my plastic. On a positive note, it did remove the stickiness. Oh well.
@@vflytrap7158, oh no. But now you know. Something similar happened to me before I learned about the power of acetone. Another chemical mismatch that gets many people is cleaning acrylic with isopropyl alcohol. Iso destroys the molecular links of the acrylic polymer causing it to develop cracks and even crumble in your hands. I learned about that after destroying a nice brand new acrylic book holder, minutes after unboxing it. That really hurt.
It’s a silicone mat typically used for working with electronics, to avoid static discharge and stray solder damaging the work surface. Look around electronics parts suppliers and you’ll find dozens of them in various configurations for the tool/bits trays.
Thanks, worked perfectly for the sticky backside on my Harmony 1100. As the last step I used a soft cloth and wiped the unit with surgical spirit. This to avoid possibly long lasting effects from acetone.
Thanks for sharing this technique. Next time I have to clean a sticky remote, or some sticky plastic computer accessory or other souvenir from my youth, I will use your technique to get it cleaned. Afterwards, I'm going to try wiping it down with 303 Protectant, which protects all types of automotive and boat plastics exposed to,the elements, and may offer some protection from keeping the stickiness from returning to the plastic household items that are cleaned your way. Thanks again. P.S. Some nail polish remover is not acetone based, or not 100% pure acetone, unlike the pure Acetone in the cans sold as a cleaning solvent in the paint sections of big box stores and in stand-alone paint or hardware stores. If you can keep those cans sealed, the stuff will last forever. By the way a solution of 50-50 acetone and ATF is one of the best penetrating lubricants you can use, but it tends to separate when left alone, so you mix only what you can use that day and you have to shake it up before you squirt it on whatever is stuck or needs lubricating. Any brand of ATF will work.
After some magnifying and sleuthing I found the brand he used was Up & Up Strengthening Nail Polish Remover available at Target in a 6oz bottle for $1.29. Hope this helps. I'm off to get mine...........!
I wonder if they use this material on purpose so the items themselves aren't technically broken but just awful and nasty to use, so people would prefer to throw it away and buy something new rather than cleaning it. I had this happen to so many tech items, it's unbelievable..
@@PinePondCTDevilsHopyard-fy3hj feels great for 2 to 3 years, then feels absolutely disgusting. Logitech used to make devices that lasted for over a decade before any maintenance was needed, nowadays you'd be lucky if it works as intended for half a decade. And it's not just the plastic, even the microswitches on newer mice and trackballs are not nearly as good as what they used to put on older devices.
Another less toxic solvent is eucalyptus oil it's a natural sap oil from Australian Eucalyptus trees . It also strips off that sticky layer when plastic surfaces deteriorate . I saved my $400 RayBan's because the arms were going all sticky even the optometrist could not fix them . Eucalyptus oil fixed it right up . Scrub vigorously with cue tips and soft cloths soaked with the oil and the original smooth surface reappears like magic .
Maybe you were sold knock-off Ray Bans? Just wondering.... The plastic degradation that causes the stickyness is mostly from recycled plastic material. Virgin plastic wont do this. Cheers.
I have a Targus Bluetooth mouse with a sticky rubber issue. I used a vinyl and rubber trim cleaner for cars. The only listed ingredient was Naphtha (Petroleum) Hydrogenated Heavy. It took a bit of rubbing like you said, but it's not sticky and comfortable to use now. ☕😃👍
I searched for a video tutorial on how to remove that sticky residue from plastic and I got this video link as my top search result. The irony is, I was searching because I have the SAME REMOTE and that's what I was trying to fix! What are the chances ?😂
Erik you F'in legend, thanks man. I was ready to throw that remote (same as yours) into the garbage because of that stickiness in the back. Now it's saved, thanks again! But I deliberately removed the logo in the back, because there was no harmony... PS. whoever came up with that kind of plastic should have been fired.
It’s a silicone mat typically used for working with electronics, to avoid static discharge and stray solder damaging the work surface. Look around electronics parts suppliers and you’ll find dozens of them in various configurations for the tool/bits trays.
Have a pair of 20 X 80 binoculars, the ends that surrounds the "large glass" (Objective lens) became very sticky. From the ring that holds them to tripod brkt. to the edge of large glass is about 2 i/2 inches wide then is circular around the glass lens. I put the rubber seals over the glass lens to protect them. I used an old cotton T shirt and 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Worked perfectly.
I have a 13-year-old MP3 player where the back cover got completely sticky and gooey. I used 70% isopropyl alcohol, the kind you would use for first aid. It did a wonderful job.
A lot of enquiries found in comments on You Tube about this topic. Very little natural rubber is used. Mostly synthetic plastics (polymers) and the bad news is plastic degradation is normal. This accounts for tackiness/stickiness of non-slip coatings on many devices such as binoculars, gaming controls, mouse surfaces. The good news is that the topic of polymer degradation is an active scientific field. There is a technical Journal of Polymer of Degradation and Stability. If you want credible information about these topics, how and why it occurs, and what can be done, your best sources include those found in the publications of museum conservation departments. For plain language overviews of the topic see ie Stein, V. (2018, May 31). The Race to Save Historic Plastic Artefacts. Retrieved August 11, 2022, from Science website: www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/preserving-plastic-art-spacesuits-science or Care of Plastics: Malignant plastics. (2002). Retrieved August 11, 2022, from Culturalheritage.org website: cool.culturalheritage.org/waac/wn/wn24/wn24-1/wn24-102.html Here is my own experience with solutions. 'Foam rot' disintegration of open-pored, polyurethane foam polyurethane foams in headphones, microphone wind shields. Also 'foam rot' in cut-out foam instrument cases. You can't retard it with in-use instruments/accessories. To clean up the powdery and very sticky residue, use elbow grease and eucalyptus oil. It's a messy solution involving lots of lint free rags and bamboo or other wood sticks as scrapers. Carve your own. My old bamboo garden stakes were great. Binoculars, spotting scopes, and the notorious Buschnell coatings on night vision optics etc: Talc it using cheap talcum powder and scrape it off. Spray coat with a poly varnish if you want. My suggestion to retain non-slip surface is to replace with 'barrel wrap' ie camouflaged flexible adhesive tape for rifles which can be moulded into various nooks and crannies on your optics. Mine still good after ten years. A common experience? Late-mid 90's mouse with scroll wheel. Very messy to remove that polymer after dismantling. Cleaned up physically with bamboo scrapers and eucalyptus oil. Replaced with a polymer o-ring about the right size, found in a plumbing store. Only solution for many old mice is talc and scrape off the stickiness when necessary or save the messiness by trashing the item and buying a new bamboo mouse which has no plastic contact surfaces for your hand. There are at this time limited styles -you won't find a Gucci trackball with bells and whistles made from bamboo-not yet anyway. Some don'ts for cleaning: Avoid anything that is a plastic solvent. That includes any petroleum product, alcohols, acetones etc. They are just thin plasticisers which mix to some extent with the exuded plasticisers which cause the tackiness you are trying to clean. Their residue speeds continued degradation. Degradation is inevitable for items in practical use (ie you don't keep them in a freezer or a museum conservators safe) Final good news is there's a lot of research to save the planet from micro-plastics. Spin offs might include better alternative products. Final click from bamboo mouse is very satisfying.
Nice overview! Question - why wouldn't something like acetone (definitely not my first choice) or, less chemically aggressive, alcohol (etc.) or one of the citrus-based cleaners be useful if the goal was to remove the coating completely leaving just the hard plastic substrate? For example, I have a fairly expensive Logitech MX Master 3 mouse that has gone sticky. I'm wanting it to be down to shiny bare plastic (presumably that's what's underneath the so-called "rubberized" coating). I'm not wanting to preserve its original look/feel but I do want the sticky/tackiness to go away. On a related note, overall, I believe it's a mistake for product designers to use these coatings; they should stop doing so.
After 3 hours of watching videos I came to the conclusion that I have no answer and I need a chemist to answer the question. Your explanation is really what everyone needs to know. Now how to place your explanation as a top tagged answer in about a million misinformation videos!?!
@@hgodtx most videos are not purposeful misinformation, just "works for me" stuff. Without knowing exactly what type of plastic / rubber / polymer you're dealing with and the actual contents of the solution you're using to attempt to fix it, it's going to be hit or miss. Most people can barely tell the difference between ethanol and isopropanol and think all nail polish removers are just acetone, don't get your hopes up in having any random joe to be able to tell different types of plastic apart.
I used acetone the last time and I put a reminder sticker on the bottle that “It melts plastics.” Just in case that I was forgetful and tried that again.
On my older Harmony remotes I've removed the sticky material with Goo-Gone. Will not etch the plastic like acetone will. Will require some pressure when rubbing it off. I will soon have to do this to my newer Harmony remotes as they are starting to feel sticky. The newer ones are approaching 5 year of age and sure enough is right around the time this rubber degradation occurs.
Hello - but in your example the rubber coating is still present. If it had worked then the underside would be shiny like how it is in that small portion that seemed to have rubbed off from general wear.
Ah yes, the perfect plastic combo for stuff that is meant to be used/handled for years using your hands/fingers: black glossy plastic + sticky old plastic! I though only cheap Chinese brands resorted to it, but I guess there was a time when well known consumer brands were using this stuff.
This isn’t about cheap material. Its an imbalance of electrons. Every plastic or rubber has this and will degrade differently in different environments. Not defending the company. Its just what I do restoring old electronics. Acetone is almost never the answer btw…
@@echo-hotel Agree. The back half of my Denon remote is ABS plastic and the acetone ate into it. Actually softened the plastic like Testors glue does to plastic models.
I used acetone but it was a bit to aggressive so I opted for 91% rubbing alcohol. When using the acetone to start I etched the plastic translucent lens where the remote sends it's signal through by accident. There is a fix. I used White Diamond polish with a paper towel until it started to clear up pretty good then I finished it up the lens cover on my work paints ( while wearing ) part polyester and cotton. The lens cover looks brand new again. Most standard car waxes would get you in the ball park within a few minutes using careful effort.
I have found this nearly always to be the case with "SOFT TOUCH PLASTICS", which are often used in controller devices, and other handheld electronic items. Acetone (nail polish remover), is the best solution I have found as well, perhaps a follow up with some ultra fine silicon carbide automotive sanding paper 5k or something. Whatever the chemistry, once the sticky surface is chemically/manually removed... it does NOT seem to return. This makes me think this is some type of "Top Coating" or even mold release agent, which has the added benefit that it makes the plastic feel somehow soft. These items are chemically UNSTABLE, that is why they degrade and becoming a sticky mess; and it doesn't take long, I have had items only 4 years old, kept in a cool, dark, and dry environment that also got sticky. Lets go back to stable hard plastics that last forever and forget about this "Soft Plastic Fee" crap. PLEASE!
WOW this did work and worked really well. Thanks!!! One thing is you need to be patient and I am not. I would say it took me 30 to 40 minutes to start seeing it work. I really went over it many times and tried to keep it wet but not soaked. I'd say it looks like new and feels fine. Shocked that Acetone doesn't destroy it.
i prefer using Detol wipes or some other with alcohol, or even straight up Alcohol with a rag, since Acetone melts ABS plastics and you could ruin your finish like we see in the video
If you use some solvent, such as, ethanol you can remove dirt but it remains sticky as long as you don't remove the plastic part completely off. My solution is just letting some crumbled cottons cover it, then it does not get sticky anymore.
well, i got one of them at a thrift store, i hadn't seen your video first, i used 91% isopropyl alcohol cleaned it off then a few hours later scrubbed in some vinegar.. it's now a bright glossy black, problem now is it's super slippery and smooth, i don;t know if that's how it's supposed to be lol.
Thanks, I tried to remove the stickiness with alcohol, barley did anything. When I used acetone nail polish remove cloths, it took me less than a minute to clean it all.
Haven't found acetone solution effective. I prefer to rub simple cornflour onto surface and brush off residue. As yet I've not needed to repeat the process.
I had a horrible sticky folding USB. I watched your video and on my desk was a bottle of lens cleaner the optometrist gave me when I got a new pair of glasses. I sprayed some on a microfiber cloth and the sticky came off quite easily. Still felt a bit sticky so I lightly sprinkled some talcum powder on it and wiped the powder off and now it doesn’t feel sticky at all.
I have this battery powered coffee stirrer that has this horrible rubberized ccoating on it an it has gone sticky. I ended up using hand sanitizer to get it off and it was messy. It worked though.
Isopropanol (2-propanol, IPA) will also do great. I do not recommend acetone since it will attack/dissolve underlying plastic, paint print on knobs etc,
please don't use nail polish remover! do not follow this video! you will ruin your items! Use 70% alcohol instead, it's more gentle and won't damage them.!
Let me pin this to warn the others 😱
@@thecollegepicker Acetone dissoves ABS-Plastic, is what hes saying.
ABS is really easy (cheap) to produce so many things are made from it.
Fully agree with this. 70% alcohol with cotton pads. Steel wool to finish.
I find Goof-Off works better than 70% alcohol, but is obviously more expensive and the alcohol you may have just sitting around. Please be careful with any flammable solvent, especially gasoline. Best to work with these outside where the ventilation is good. And don't fill up indoor trash can with used rags or paper towel as those can fill the room with fumes, or catch fire.
@@thecollegepickerPin this comment? You should delete this video! Whilst acetone will work on polyethylene plastics it will actually dissolve polycarbonate plastics!!
Thanks for this video. I used acetone and a cloth and procedure as advised, but even after a lot of rubbing, the plastic was still sticky and looked terrible. I then decided to try a fine steel wool ball and rubbed it until the surface looked smooth and good. I also rubbed the steel wool on the shiny plastic parts affected by the acetone, and this cleaned up brilliantly with no scratches. After completing the above, I applied some oil spray to enhance the plastic's colour and sheen. The remote looks brand new now.
Acetone degrades rubber/plastic which makes it worse
That was the best solution in my experience. Thanks for sharing. I used goof off with the fine steel wool and a magic eraser to clean up after I was all done.
My solution for a Logitech MX1000 mouse with that sticky degraded rubber goo was to take the mouse apart and scrape all the thin rubber coating off with my fingernails. It took a lot of work but I was afraid to use acetone. Rubbing alcohol and a cloth helps rub the last 5% off. Then I use a polish called PEEK Which is made for metal like sink faucets but it works great on hard plastic also. Shines it up nicely.
@@Earthneedsado-over177 oh my god the sheer amount of PATIENCE you have!
any suggestion on stcky rubber grip?
This is not a circumstance of people just having dirty sticky remotes. This is something from the factory on these remotes. I bought a brand new unopened Logitech remote that was 15 years old. Right as I touched it for the first time it was super sticky on the back. So it’s something they use in the manufacturing process. Thanks for the video. I’ll do this on my BRAND NEW remote :/
They're using the same rubber material on their flagship mice, and they're aware of the issue... Go figure
@@HamedEmine oh geez
How else are they going to get you to buy new products every couple years? 🙄
@@Brudergaming well, in their defense I have a remote from them that’s lasted many many years. So I guess it’s just a manufacturing flub.
Yes, this coating is used to give the plastic a leather satin feel. After many years, it breaks down and gets sticky.
It is also happening to the coating on my car dashboard.
I had no acetone. But alcohol worked just fine. It’s all about the cloth used. Thanks bro
Alcohol is better.
@@cateyenebula Ethanol for the win! Just don't drink too much while cleaning or you'll forget what your objective is. ;-)
Update- I hesitantly tried the acetone and as expected it removed the sticky top surface but ate into the plastic creating more of a mess. It reminded me of using Testors glue on plastic models. So I used alcohol to stop the process and when it dried I scuffed the plastic with a burgundy scotchbrite and painted it. This was on a Denon remote controller.
Thanks! This worked great for an old F710 controller. Took about 30 minutes, did not have acetone, but rubbing alcohol worked great.
Thanks for that. I just tried it with Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover. It worked fine. Just saved me £50.00 for a new remote. Thanks.
You are welcome 🙌
Dear College Picker, your acetone/nail cleaner hint has just saved my bacon. I have a pair of very expensive hand-held wireless microphones that I will be using tomorrow for a high-paying client. The mics had been getting stickier and stickier and when I checked them just now, they were horrendously revolting to the touch. I used a tightly woven sock and the nail remover. They now look like new and feel better to the touch than they did when I bought them! I followed the acetone up with alcohol and polished them up with the socks. They look and feel great. A thousand thanks.
That's awesome to hear. I'm glad your high paying gig will be top notch now 🤝
Thanks! Exactly what I needed to know. I had sticky residue on a Guitar Hero guitar that would not come off even with goo-gone. This worked great!
You are welcome.
I know I'm commenting on a old video, but I found success with Rubbing Alcohol (70%), Magic Eraser, and paper towel. Acetone can eat away plastic, so I used rubbing alcohol.
1. Dip the eraser in alcohol and scrub an area for a minute or so. This softens the rubber soft touch coating.
2. Then get a paper towel with a little alcohol and rub the area afterwards to transfer the coating onto the paper towel.
3. Repeat around the different area of the unit.
Wow just restored an 8 year old Decus gaming mouse to it's former glory...great informative practical video. Thank you from South Africa
Rubbing alcohol works also but requires a lot of work, rubbing in one direction. It is also less toxic.
The miscreants that design plastic to degrade, so that the consumer must spend more money, need to be flogged.
OMG...this really works...somehow a rubber band got caught on my toaster oven tray and I didn't realize it until I had already put it in the oven to cook something...finally noticed melted rubber band on the metal tray and a couple spots in my sink where I had put the tray...picked off whatever rubber band I could then I used the nail polish remover with acetone and a streak free mirror cloth...worked excellent...thank you so much!!!
Thank you so much! These Harmony remotes always seem to come like this. You have saved me a lot of grief! TY
You are welcome. That gunk can get nasty!
i have an old wireless mouse from logitech and was wondering why it was so sticky. i thought that maybe i had put some duct-tape over it at some point, but now i know. gonna get some nail-polish remover and give this a try. thanks!
Dude, I owe you many thanks, I restored a very expensive 3DConnexxion device with this tip, works like magic. Cheers.
Happy to help 🤝
Oil may work for those who find that acetone doesn't work. Makeup brushes have the same problem and I used mineral oil and a used fabric softener sheet and that worked really well.
I'm having this exact problem with my iT Cosmetics Velvet Luxe brush handles, smh
Right. I think the coating is an oil-based rubber that is breaking down so I think the standard way of dealing with that is another oil and then probably like Dawn to flush it all away.
Thank You! One of my Bluetooth speaker body was suffering this sticky surface over it & the acetone rub left it non sticky & shiny as a charm. Saved me from the realization of the sticky feeling and the device now looks shinier than before. Really a gadget saver trick!
What worked best for me and this was for some super caked on stickiness, first I used a couple lysol wipes and a slight bit of elbow grease to wipe off the majority of excess until there was basically just a layer that kept getting moved around instead. Once I got to that point I switched to a microfiber cloth and some rubbing alcohol and it came right off.
I used yours for the normal plastic, and the acetone for this more rubbery plastic on my little speaker, so both worked amazingly, so thank you
I know this comment is old, but after getting most of the residue off with the acetone (there was still some stickiness), that 70% alcohol clean and dried it wonderfully! ❤
I was cleaning out my office and found your video. I tried with the acetone and it was a huge mess.
ALTERNATE METHOD: The Harmony One's back (disgustingly sticky) cover can be taken off completely. In this age of fixing iPhone screens, I thought this had to be possible and it was. I took my fingernail and pried the top edge on one side. It came up pretty easily. I proceed to do the same with the other side. I have an iFixit spludger (the long pencil thing with a point on one end and an tapered edge on the other) from a previous iphone fix. Once I got the top two edges loose, I pried down each edge. I could hear that there was some sort of tape holding down the bottom edge so once I loosened the edges the best I could I jammed the spludger, tapered edge first from the top to the bottom. I wasn't that gentle with it, so do at your own risk. The adhesive at the bottom of the back plate popped free and off it came! WARNING: there's a clip on the back plate near the bottom that may get broken in the process. Mine broke, but at least it got rid of that horrible sticky back plate. I will continue with the acetone trick and maybe replace the back, but for now I'm happy using it without the back. BTW it is solid plastic underneath so no electronics are exposed.
I found that for stubborn surfaces, a nail guard sponge worked well; where I first used the scotch bright side (w/ acetone) to rough up the rubber surface and then the sponge side to clean up.
I’m blown away! I was not a believer that would work for the disgusting back of our remote……. It’s like new in 5 minutes! Thank you!
You are welcome 🤠 happy to help 🤝
Worked! Thank you. I thought I was going to have throw away a clicker for presentations but it cleaned up beautifully!
Glad it helped!
Never knew there was a fix. Thanks for the awesome content.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching 😊
worked really well on a plastic phone case with a strong dish scrubber, thanks!
I tried liquid dish soap, citrus hand cleaner, then tried alcohol, then spray adhesive remover. Nothing worked. So I will give the acetone a try and thank you in advance. Since the acetone is removing the softened layer of plastic I would expect the plastic coming off will clog the rag pretty quickly so turning to a fresh spot seems necessary. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
Dude , game changer. I’ve had this issue with ps2 thumbsticks and had to replace the sticks. Thanks for this
You are welcome Tom. I know exactly what you mean with those nasties!
Thank You!! Was just about to toss my Harmony One before I saw your video! Feels like new now. Thanks again! BTW, another option is to remove the rubberized grip area from the remote (easily pry off) and then clean and reinstall. You could also try this approach if you wanted to remove ALL the coating down to the base plastic layer which is what I will probably do when my coating becomes sticky again in the future.
You should use Grammarly or some other spell checker, dude.
People, try 95%+ isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol first since it is less aggressive. If it doesn't work, try a drop of acetone in an inconspicuous area and verify the plastic is not melted. For instance, ABS plastic can be completely melted by acetone. That will certainly destroy your device.
I think the acetone melting the plastic is what gets it of of this remote. Lots of ways to do it 🤝
@MucaroBoricua I wish i tried your method. I tried the acetone and it completely melted my plastic. On a positive note, it did remove the stickiness. Oh well.
@@vflytrap7158, oh no. But now you know. Something similar happened to me before I learned about the power of acetone.
Another chemical mismatch that gets many people is cleaning acrylic with isopropyl alcohol. Iso destroys the molecular links of the acrylic polymer causing it to develop cracks and even crumble in your hands. I learned about that after destroying a nice brand new acrylic book holder, minutes after unboxing it. That really hurt.
What is that blue tray in the background??
It’s a silicone mat typically used for working with electronics, to avoid static discharge and stray solder damaging the work surface.
Look around electronics parts suppliers and you’ll find dozens of them in various configurations for the tool/bits trays.
Did the acetone affect your plastic at all later?
Thanks, worked perfectly for the sticky backside on my Harmony 1100.
As the last step I used a soft cloth and wiped the unit with surgical spirit. This to avoid possibly long lasting effects from acetone.
Thanks for sharing this technique. Next time I have to clean a sticky remote, or some sticky plastic computer accessory or other souvenir from my youth, I will use your technique to get it cleaned. Afterwards, I'm going to try wiping it down with 303 Protectant, which protects all types of automotive and boat plastics exposed to,the elements, and may offer some protection from keeping the stickiness from returning to the plastic household items that are cleaned your way. Thanks again.
P.S. Some nail polish remover is not acetone based, or not 100% pure acetone, unlike the pure Acetone in the cans sold as a cleaning solvent in the paint sections of big box stores and in stand-alone paint or hardware stores. If you can keep those cans sealed, the stuff will last forever. By the way a solution of 50-50 acetone and ATF is one of the best penetrating lubricants you can use, but it tends to separate when left alone, so you mix only what you can use that day and you have to shake it up before you squirt it on whatever is stuck or needs lubricating. Any brand of ATF will work.
Which brand was the one you used on this video? I can't read it
After some magnifying and sleuthing I found the brand he used was Up & Up Strengthening Nail Polish Remover available at Target in a 6oz bottle for $1.29.
Hope this helps. I'm off to get mine...........!
Lol strong detective 🕵️♂️
Isopropyl alcohol works as well
I wonder if they use this material on purpose so the items themselves aren't technically broken but just awful and nasty to use, so people would prefer to throw it away and buy something new rather than cleaning it. I had this happen to so many tech items, it's unbelievable..
Planned Obsolescence in full swing
No, they make the plastic feel like satin leather for a few years.
@@PinePondCTDevilsHopyard-fy3hj feels great for 2 to 3 years, then feels absolutely disgusting. Logitech used to make devices that lasted for over a decade before any maintenance was needed, nowadays you'd be lucky if it works as intended for half a decade. And it's not just the plastic, even the microswitches on newer mice and trackballs are not nearly as good as what they used to put on older devices.
Thanks, About to try. This was EXACTLY the remote and issue I had. Spot on.
Thanks for this. I have several small electronics that have this sticky serface and it drives me crazy. I will try this tonight.
Another less toxic solvent is eucalyptus oil it's a natural sap oil from Australian Eucalyptus trees . It also strips off that sticky layer when plastic surfaces deteriorate . I saved my $400 RayBan's because the arms were going all sticky even the optometrist could not fix them . Eucalyptus oil fixed it right up . Scrub vigorously with cue tips and soft cloths soaked with the oil and the original smooth surface reappears like magic .
Maybe you were sold knock-off Ray Bans? Just wondering.... The plastic degradation that causes the stickyness is mostly from recycled plastic material. Virgin plastic wont do this. Cheers.
Followed your advice - thanks job is done got rid of the stickiness well explained ❤❤
Is it fine to use on outside the straightener??
Awesome, working 100%. Thanks 👍. Downside is the plastic become glossy.
You are welcome 🤗
I have a Targus Bluetooth mouse with a sticky rubber issue. I used a vinyl and rubber trim cleaner for cars. The only listed ingredient was Naphtha (Petroleum) Hydrogenated Heavy. It took a bit of rubbing like you said, but it's not sticky and comfortable to use now. ☕😃👍
I have thrown stuff like this away, good to know. Seemed to be a quick process too. This was helpful.
You are welcome. This one was pretty fast!
I searched for a video tutorial on how to remove that sticky residue from plastic and I got this video link as my top search result. The irony is, I was searching because I have the SAME REMOTE and that's what I was trying to fix! What are the chances ?😂
Hahaha that's hilarious.
Super helpful, I need to clean my plastic mac cover today! Thanks
You are welcome 🤠
Many thanks for this video. I have many sticky substances like this that I've just about given up on.
Eric bringing energetic and helpful vibes ! Always happy to see your content !
Thanks man I appreciate it 🙏
@@thecollegepicker 🤩🤩
Thank you. I need to do this for an old umbrella handle.
You are welcome. So many applications
now there is one less sticky gamepad on this planet. thx dude!
You are welcome
Erik you F'in legend, thanks man. I was ready to throw that remote (same as yours) into the garbage because of that stickiness in the back. Now it's saved, thanks again! But I deliberately removed the logo in the back, because there was no harmony... PS. whoever came up with that kind of plastic should have been fired.
Some essential oils also work. Tea tree oil and lemon oil come to mind.
What is that blue project board you are using?
It’s a silicone mat typically used for working with electronics, to avoid static discharge and stray solder damaging the work surface.
Look around electronics parts suppliers and you’ll find dozens of them in various configurations for the tool/bits trays.
Bro this thing works thanks man ❤
Have a pair of 20 X 80 binoculars, the ends that surrounds the "large glass" (Objective lens) became very sticky. From the ring that holds them to tripod brkt. to the edge of large glass is about 2 i/2 inches wide then is circular around the glass lens. I put the rubber seals over the glass lens to protect them. I used an old cotton T shirt and 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Worked perfectly.
I have a 13-year-old MP3 player where the back cover got completely sticky and gooey. I used 70% isopropyl alcohol, the kind you would use for first aid. It did a wonderful job.
Thank you! This just worked on my Bluetooth headphones.
A lot of enquiries found in comments on You Tube about this topic. Very little natural rubber is used. Mostly synthetic plastics (polymers) and the bad news is plastic degradation is normal. This accounts for tackiness/stickiness of non-slip coatings on many devices such as binoculars, gaming controls, mouse surfaces. The good news is that the topic of polymer degradation is an active scientific field. There is a technical Journal of Polymer of Degradation and Stability.
If you want credible information about these topics, how and why it occurs, and what can be done, your best sources include those found in the publications of museum conservation departments.
For plain language overviews of the topic see ie Stein, V. (2018, May 31). The Race to Save Historic Plastic Artefacts. Retrieved August 11, 2022, from Science website: www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/preserving-plastic-art-spacesuits-science or Care of Plastics: Malignant plastics. (2002). Retrieved August 11, 2022, from Culturalheritage.org website: cool.culturalheritage.org/waac/wn/wn24/wn24-1/wn24-102.html
Here is my own experience with solutions. 'Foam rot' disintegration of open-pored, polyurethane foam polyurethane foams in headphones, microphone wind shields. Also 'foam rot' in cut-out foam instrument cases. You can't retard it with in-use instruments/accessories. To clean up the powdery and very sticky residue, use elbow grease and eucalyptus oil. It's a messy solution involving lots of lint free rags and bamboo or other wood sticks as scrapers. Carve your own. My old bamboo garden stakes were great.
Binoculars, spotting scopes, and the notorious Buschnell coatings on night vision optics etc: Talc it using cheap talcum powder and scrape it off. Spray coat with a poly varnish if you want. My suggestion to retain non-slip surface is to replace with 'barrel wrap' ie camouflaged flexible adhesive tape for rifles which can be moulded into various nooks and crannies on your optics. Mine still good after ten years.
A common experience? Late-mid 90's mouse with scroll wheel. Very messy to remove that polymer after dismantling. Cleaned up physically with bamboo scrapers and eucalyptus oil. Replaced with a polymer o-ring about the right size, found in a plumbing store. Only solution for many old mice is talc and scrape off the stickiness when necessary or save the messiness by trashing the item and buying a new bamboo mouse which has no plastic contact surfaces for your hand. There are at this time limited styles -you won't find a Gucci trackball with bells and whistles made from bamboo-not yet anyway.
Some don'ts for cleaning: Avoid anything that is a plastic solvent. That includes any petroleum product, alcohols, acetones etc. They are just thin plasticisers which mix to some extent with the exuded plasticisers which cause the tackiness you are trying to clean. Their residue speeds continued degradation.
Degradation is inevitable for items in practical use (ie you don't keep them in a freezer or a museum conservators safe)
Final good news is there's a lot of research to save the planet from micro-plastics. Spin offs might include better alternative products. Final click from bamboo mouse is very satisfying.
Nice overview! Question - why wouldn't something like acetone (definitely not my first choice) or, less chemically aggressive, alcohol (etc.) or one of the citrus-based cleaners be useful if the goal was to remove the coating completely leaving just the hard plastic substrate? For example, I have a fairly expensive Logitech MX Master 3 mouse that has gone sticky. I'm wanting it to be down to shiny bare plastic (presumably that's what's underneath the so-called "rubberized" coating). I'm not wanting to preserve its original look/feel but I do want the sticky/tackiness to go away. On a related note, overall, I believe it's a mistake for product designers to use these coatings; they should stop doing so.
Excellent comment dude. Really helped
After 3 hours of watching videos I came to the conclusion that I have no answer and I need a chemist to answer the question. Your explanation is really what everyone needs to know. Now how to place your explanation as a top tagged answer in about a million misinformation videos!?!
@@hgodtx most videos are not purposeful misinformation, just "works for me" stuff. Without knowing exactly what type of plastic / rubber / polymer you're dealing with and the actual contents of the solution you're using to attempt to fix it, it's going to be hit or miss.
Most people can barely tell the difference between ethanol and isopropanol and think all nail polish removers are just acetone, don't get your hopes up in having any random joe to be able to tell different types of plastic apart.
Thank you so much for this so helpful! ❤️❤️❤️
rubbing isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) did the trick for my presentation remote. Thanks for the tip.
Best to just use 91% isopropyl alcohol for this. Acetone is way to harsh and my melt some surfaces, logos, labels, etc.
I used acetone the last time and I put a reminder sticker on the bottle that “It melts plastics.” Just in case that I was forgetful and tried that again.
Worked perfectly! Thanks so much! I was ready to chuck out my Harmony One, but now I have a brand new feeling remote again!
You are very welcome. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🤠
Planning on purchasing some acetone this weekend and I’m hoping this will work on the grip of my Canon digital camera.
Good luck on it 👍 thanks for watching
I have a targus mouse that has this issue too! I used goo be gone by still have some residue on it.
Try something acetone based and you should be good 👍
Thanks man
Now my camera is all shiny and usable again
Thank you for this video I needed it 💯
You are welcome
Thank you very much..work great..on the handle of my curling iron that who knows what made it sticky..👌👌👌
On my older Harmony remotes I've removed the sticky material with Goo-Gone. Will not etch the plastic like acetone will. Will require some pressure when rubbing it off. I will soon have to do this to my newer Harmony remotes as they are starting to feel sticky. The newer ones are approaching 5 year of age and sure enough is right around the time this rubber degradation occurs.
Hello - but in your example the rubber coating is still present. If it had worked then the underside would be shiny like how it is in that small portion that seemed to have rubbed off from general wear.
Excellent video- brief, punchy and useful
Ah yes, the perfect plastic combo for stuff that is meant to be used/handled for years using your hands/fingers: black glossy plastic + sticky old plastic!
I though only cheap Chinese brands resorted to it, but I guess there was a time when well known consumer brands were using this stuff.
This isn’t about cheap material. Its an imbalance of electrons. Every plastic or rubber has this and will degrade differently in different environments. Not defending the company. Its just what I do restoring old electronics. Acetone is almost never the answer btw…
What's the best way to restore the electrons?
@@echo-hotel Agree. The back half of my Denon remote is ABS plastic and the acetone ate into it. Actually softened the plastic like Testors glue does to plastic models.
@@thecollegepickerwith an electron canon. I'm just trolling
I used acetone but it was a bit to aggressive so I opted for 91% rubbing alcohol. When using the acetone to start I etched the plastic translucent lens where the remote sends it's signal through by accident. There is a fix. I used White Diamond polish with a paper towel until it started to clear up pretty good then I finished it up the lens cover on my work paints ( while wearing ) part polyester and cotton. The lens cover looks brand new again. Most standard car waxes would get you in the ball park within a few minutes using careful effort.
Worked perfectly and easily - highly recommended!
What if cable wires get sticky? I have tried to clean them but it dosent work becuase they get sticky again after they dried. :(
Used alcohol on lots of qtips to revive my wii classic controller joysticks! Thankfully they weren't too far gone and seem good as new!
has it resurfaced? just wondering.
I have found this nearly always to be the case with "SOFT TOUCH PLASTICS", which are often used in controller devices, and other handheld electronic items. Acetone (nail polish remover), is the best solution I have found as well, perhaps a follow up with some ultra fine silicon carbide automotive sanding paper 5k or something. Whatever the chemistry, once the sticky surface is chemically/manually removed... it does NOT seem to return. This makes me think this is some type of "Top Coating" or even mold release agent, which has the added benefit that it makes the plastic feel somehow soft. These items are chemically UNSTABLE, that is why they degrade and becoming a sticky mess; and it doesn't take long, I have had items only 4 years old, kept in a cool, dark, and dry environment that also got sticky. Lets go back to stable hard plastics that last forever and forget about this "Soft Plastic Fee" crap. PLEASE!
Thank you. Worked great!
WOW this did work and worked really well. Thanks!!! One thing is you need to be patient and I am not. I would say it took me 30 to 40 minutes to start seeing it work. I really went over it many times and tried to keep it wet but not soaked. I'd say it looks like new and feels fine. Shocked that Acetone doesn't destroy it.
It does destroy it, but just the surface, that the point 😂
Acetone dissolves ABS wich coincidently is of the of most used plastics in consumer electronics. Please use IPA or denatured alcohol instead.
i prefer using Detol wipes or some other with alcohol, or even straight up Alcohol with a rag, since Acetone melts ABS plastics and you could ruin your finish like we see in the video
True. I had my internship in an ABS-plant and disolved the ABS powder in acetone.
THANK YOU 😊 I just bought a new in the package controller and it was super sticky.
I used vitamin C Toner to reduce the look of fine lines and dullness, and it seems to do the job as well.
If you use some solvent, such as, ethanol you can remove dirt but it remains sticky as long as you don't remove the plastic part completely off. My solution is just letting some crumbled cottons cover it, then it does not get sticky anymore.
well, i got one of them at a thrift store, i hadn't seen your video first, i used 91% isopropyl alcohol cleaned it off then a few hours later scrubbed in some vinegar.. it's now a bright glossy black, problem now is it's super slippery and smooth, i don;t know if that's how it's supposed to be lol.
Thnku very much... it's awesome 👌
You are welcome 🤠
Thanks, I tried to remove the stickiness with alcohol, barley did anything. When I used acetone nail polish remove cloths, it took me less than a minute to clean it all.
You are welcome 🤠
Thank you for the tip, although this could have been a 30sec clip. Anyways, thanks gonna try it.
I have always used methylated spirits as it does not remove the logo or othe writing on the plastic.
I use ipa. It may take longer but won’t melt abs that is often used as a hard plastic.
Haven't found acetone solution effective. I prefer to rub simple cornflour onto surface and brush off residue. As yet I've not needed to repeat the process.
I had a horrible sticky folding USB. I watched your video and on my desk was a bottle of lens cleaner the optometrist gave me when I got a new pair of glasses. I sprayed some on a microfiber cloth and the sticky came off quite easily. Still felt a bit sticky so I lightly sprinkled some talcum powder on it and wiped the powder off and now it doesn’t feel sticky at all.
I have this battery powered coffee stirrer that has this horrible rubberized ccoating on it an it has gone sticky. I ended up using hand sanitizer to get it off and it was messy. It worked though.
BOOM great tute!
Isopropanol (2-propanol, IPA) will also do great.
I do not recommend acetone since it will attack/dissolve underlying plastic, paint print on knobs etc,
Thanks 😊
It works to me, thanks pal
You are welcome
my search:
"how to clean sticky rubber"
few moments later
"how to recolor rubber"
Just got a new old stock 20 year old Gen 1 monocular and it is nasty . Total degradation but I will try this method and see what happens .
I have two old cell phones with this and on one of them there are metal under it so I’m just scraping it off I lost the Verizon logo