Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken
Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time
Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.
Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out
What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak
Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.
Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.
This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.
For those having issue with no flame to your water heater. Check your propane regulator. Mine was bad and was not letting the propane flow. I had replaced the gas valve, electric element and was ready to order the circuit board when I decided to check for gas flow trying to turn on the stove and it wouldn’t light
Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction
If you haven’t heard it enough, Great Video! I have a SW6DEL, and bought Anode bars and noticed that the threading (male) on the rod didn’t screw in all the way. The rods are the same size outer end to outer end, however, the replacement had a bit more, about 1/16-1/8, or two more rounds of threads more. I wish I could upload a picture. I was concerned about the end making contact with the wall of the tank. Now knowing that is glass, it worries me. The rod is about 1/8 not screwed flush. I don’t think what I replaced was screwed flush. I’ve seen some videos that show the anode rod being replaced but it’s not detailed enough. The camera pans away. Last, I have a 1973 Chinook Camper, the water heater was updated within the last year, give or take a few months. Still, I took the anode rod out, not knowing what it was and thinking it was just a way to let out the water for winterizing the camper. I was hoping to learn if there was a cut valve to prevent the RV antifreeze from getting in the water heater tank. Maybe that’s an add-on on the outside, somewhere near the in source. I know where to look now. In addition, I am glad that you showed how to remove the gas burner it seems that it’s easier to replace the heating rod/element with the burner out of the way. Many Thanks! Robin
Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.
Mine steadily deteriorated and initially took a few fires to get going but got worse till it took several restarts and then just wouldnt start at all. The gas burner actually fired up each time but after a few seconds went out however I noticed the piezo ignitor continued to fire even after the burner lit each time. That mad eme think it was a thermocouple issue that wasnt getting to temperature fast enough after it ignited. After watching several vids on these heaters I removed, realigned and cleaned the ignitor probes which incorporate the thermocouple but while this improved the number of times it took to start the problem persisted. I noticed that the flame was a bit yellow so I cleaned the brass gas jet with about a nunber 61 nozzle file and while that didnt appear to be restricted it did restore the flame to all blue and now it fires up immediately every time for the first time in a very long time. So make sure you clean that jet out along with everything else.
Pretty sure you're wrong about the tstats. The bottom tstat is temperature activated and set to 130F. That's the one regulating the operation of the water heater. Its spring loaded and continuously opens the circuit (at temp) and resets when the WH cools below set temp. Should it fail, the top tstat (also called the ECO) will break the circuit at 180F and that one needs to to be reset manually. There is no one-shot tstat on the Suburban WH as far as I'm aware. You're probably confusing this with the ECO fuse on the Atwood/Dometic which would melt in the event of a backfire from the burn chamber.
This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.
anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode
Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.
So, I'm cruising around every video on Suburban units that I can find. I'm starting to think my issue is an oddball: I can't turn the electric element off from inside, only with the switch on the unit, itself. The 12v switch definitely works. The only other options I can think of is that it's wired right up to 12v and not through the switch or a bad control board.... maybe? I don't know how much access I have to the back of the unit, and I REALLY don't want to pull the whole thing out.
@davevoecks6264 Many RV manufacturers do not provide interior 120v switches for the suburban heating element....( probly saves them $5) Most people just use the water heater circuit breaker as an interior switch in this case.
Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.
Replacing my SW12DEL with a tankless. The Suburban is rusting out after 4 years, gives me nothing but smelly water. Replaced heating elements, thermostats, multiple anodes...now it is a leaky, rusty mess.
Uninitiated? I've been doing this 6 days a week for 18 years, run my own mobile service and I'm a master certified RVIA/RVDA technician. I've seen the best and worst.....lol. Thanks for watching!
@@MRRVTECH i was referring to myself! Not you at all except you broke it down for my dumbass to get it done. I am the uninitiated, unwashed! Not you by any means! Sorry for the misunderstanding, you are a great teacher as well as tradesman
@MrRVTech - ABSOLUTELY A GREAT, WELL DONE video! You deserve the rewards from the advertisements. My only Q to you is "Does a BAD" 110v element show open or closed circuit ? I just pulled on with fried wires ... Thinking it shorted? Or maybe they fried from poor connection.... idk. But I am curious as to if the elements will die closed as well as open?
Great Video! I do have a question. If I put my water heater out the side of the couch will the water lines come out too so I can disconnect them or do I have to go inside and take the wall panels off to disconnect the water line.
I'm sorry but you should have read the manual first. The twosnap discs with the manual reset are the EOC's. Their job is only as a failsafe if the lower normal thermostat fails to open once the setpoint has been reached. This keeps from overheating the appliance. It also forces a human to manually rest the switch to figure out why because normally these switches do NOT trip. If you lose hot water and must manually reset an ECO, that's fine. That's why they're re-settable compared to a one-shot fuse, such as used over burners. The lower pair are you normal on/ off thermostats. When you first power up, the line voltage left hand one is normally closed and the right hand not receiving power. The burner fires heating the water. If there is no water, the ECO will trip to protect the unit. Once set point has been reached 135F +/- 5F, the lower left switch breaks open stopping further heating. When the water cools down below 100F or fresh cold water enters it senses this and resets closing the switch repeating the cycle. If there is no line voltage, you can use the12 volt wiring to control the LP burner. It uses the right side ECO and limit switch. ECO's typically trip around 185F. The Temperature/ Pressure relief valve trips at 210F or 150 psi.
My sw6de sits in a cabinet. Heard a hissing noise to open the cabinet and find moisture, mold, and some puddles water from the water heater. I assume the noise im hearing is steam escaping from under the Styrofoam thats around the tank. I think if it was leaking there would be more water. Turned off water it still makes the noise. Cut the breaker to it and the noise stopped. Would my tank be cracked at the top possibly? Why would i feel steam coming from the top of the tank around the Styrofoam?
electric ignition on gas water heater does not come to light gas, is it the valve or the module that could be bad? Electric side of heater works fine. Thanks
My Suburban Hot Water tank has 110volt on the white wire going to the element and black wire is ground coming from switch and thermostat. I can't get to the junction box without removing the tank. Have you ever seen this? I believe the wiring was done at factory.
Good video but in all the one i have watched , include this one , no one shows where is the main gas connection ..Under ? left side ? Right side ? Behind ? Top ? Thanks !!
@@MRRVTECH Thank you , would be good to show it on video as quiet essential the gas connection and no one shows it in any video i have watch so far about this product ... 🤔
Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.
Great video, very much appreciated! I was hoping you’d take out the propane combustion chamber.. (pringles can shaped metal tube) that the flame heats up. Does that come out and can it be replaced? The inside of mine is pretty heavily rusted to where penny sized rust flakes are actually hanging down, where the propane flame contacts, down the entire tube interior. Makes me wonder if it’s still structurally sound. I didn’t want to heat it up using propane, and have the metal combustion chamber expand and leak. So I’m concerned to even use propane at this point to heat it up. I had mine running only electric for about a year and I believe condensation formed on the inside of the combustion tube.. causing it to rust. Not sure.. Do you know if this is fixible? Everything else is functioning as it should with roughly 1 year of use after being brand new. It did also sit out at the land dry/empty for about 2.5yrs. Hoping I can replace that combustion chamber, but not sure if that chamber/tube contacts water directly on the inside or not as well, and or how thick it is. I’d imagine it does contact the water directly, if it’s essentially the propane heating element. Also my anode was gone as well after 1yr use, definitely should have checked on it sooner, but I don’t think that would have rusted out and compromised the combustion chamber that quickly do you?
Also, while the anode rod wasn’t replaced after 1yr, the rv had been stationary. So I don’t think the glass liner was damaged at all thankfully from the debris moving back and forth etc. just hoping it didn’t compromise and rust out the combustion chamber.
Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Nice job. One issue. I noticed the threads on your Anode have teflon tape on them. Please talk about the need for the threads to make contact with the tank in order for the Anode to work properly. Leaks are an issue without the teflon tape.
The three wires that come from the control board area are they just powered by a switch? I do not have a switch on my rv other than the one on the water heater how would I install those wires
Why is the anode rod and receiving joint so corroded? That happened on ours after our first year of owning it. It was throughly dried out before it was winterized by dealer and put into storage. Its so bad we can not, to spite all our efforts (wire brushing, lubricant, new tape, etc.) to thread the rod into it. Called the RV manufacturer, dealer and Suburban. No one has an explanation.
I have a question. my heater works on gas then when i turn on electric, the igniter fires and turns on the propane. When I pull a wire off of the DC thermostat switch, the igniter will not fire and the electric coil heats the tank. How does it know not to use the gas when the electric is on? Is that a control board issue?
Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.
How do you wire up the control board to the rv? Is there a swit c h i should buy? My old water heater was gas only the new one is electric/gas and im unsure what i need for this.
Hi. Great video. I am full-time in my rig and would like to know how to clean out the burn tube and the chamber where the flame goes, because I found a bunch of moths in there. Is there some sort of long flexible brush meant to clean out the burn tube? Also what is the name of that socket that you used to take the aluminum panel off that was connected to your drill?
Yes, I have an 8" brush with nylon brush on the end. Not sure what tool you are referring to but I used a phillips bit, a 1/4" hex bit and a 3/8" hex bit to disassemble.
My dad has this unit and it calls for heat, then cycles 3 times and cuts out...and you have to turn it off from inside the trailer. I think the electronic spark, flame sensor is bad. What do you think?
I have a problem with my water system getting air into it and noticed my pressure relief valve on my hws hissing. So i think its sucking air over the couple of months untill our next journey. Do i need to replace the pressure relief valve?
Hi thanks for the great video. I need some help with a question and would like to ask you if you could be so kind to help if you can. I bought a forest river 5th wheel and about a year ago and didn't know anything about the anode rod and it rotted thru the bottom of the tank .so I bought a replacement on eBay it's the 5243A SW10DE. I bought an open box water heater thinking I could save some money . I really don't want to return it if I don't have too. So it arrived yesterday and I gave it a good look over and I noticed on the pressure relief side of the fire box that the metal around the top of the pressure relief valve had a dent . Then I looked down between the tank and the fire box and on the back side of the fire box where the pressure relief sticks thru there appears to be a rubber gasket up against the fire box . Is that a seal or does the pressure relief actually screw into a fitting that is part of the tank and I don't need to worry about that rubber gasket? Because they tightened it and the rubber gasket is only about 1/2 under the shoulder it was meant to be in contact with .the bad news is they tightened the brown wire between the two surfaces mate instead of on the gasket . Looking at it I don't think removing the pressure relief will loosen the surface I am talking about it appears to be some type of flange that holds the fire box to the tank and the relief valve screws into it. I realize I need to get the wire out from in-between the two surfaces or maybe cut it and replace it all together but is that gasket sealing the water or just a nicety? Thank you for taking a look at my problem.
The pressure relief valve screws directly into a welded fitting in the tank, the gasket you see does not retain any water it is a barrier between the combustion pan and tank. I would just cut the wire off and run a new one. Best of luck!
Thank you for the great video! Is there a test to determine why the propane will light and not stay on. I have cleaned the intake tube but still have a problem Thanks!
Great video, but can you show how the two switches work on the electric side in the rv and on the hot water tank , why can’t I shut down the electric side in the rv ????? I have to go out side to turn the electric side off … The gas works okay ! Thanks for your service and help . G
I just bought the SW10DE to replace my very old Atwood 10 gallon. I'm confused about the wire connections because the new suburban has 6 wires plus the normal AC wires. My old Atwood only has 3 wires blue, green and white for the 12 volt. Plus the normal AC black, white and green for electric. I have a circuit breaker for the electric on and off. I have a 12 volt rocker switch with a light for gas use. Can someone tell me how to connect 6 wires 12volt from the new suburban unit where there's only 3 wires to the RV that the old 1994ish Atwood used? I haven't had hot water for a week now due to only a small leak in the tank and need to get this new one installed asap.
It sounds like you bought the new gas electric DSI model, since you don't have an interior electric switch, just omit those wires. Wire the gas wires to your switch based off the schematic just inside the door.
Changing out my water heater from manual light to a switch light. The water heater has 3 wires coming out of it I’m assuming one is ground then one would go to the switch but not sure about the 3rd. I tested the one it came out of the wires one was 13.7v the other 11.7 and the other I would say ground. I need to add a switch then I can get power from tapping another wire or run to panel.
I’ve been out in my Travel trailer this week and heard a high pitch tone coming from the water heater when it was running on electric. The noise would stop when I would turn the water heater electric switch off and would come back on when the switch was turned back on. A few days later after coming back to the trailer after an hour walk and noticed the fan by the service panel, I assume it was the inverter cooling fan, was coming on and going off. This was every few seconds, on off on off. It stopped fluctuating on off when I turned the water switch to off and immediately started doing it when the switch was turned back on. I’m still away from home and am using the propane for the hot water heater, which that part is working just fine. In both instances the water coming out was hot. Any ideas what should look for when I get home.
Good one! Sounds like a strain on the 12 volt side of the converter while the water heater is on electric, possibly a relay in the control board. I would test the amperage on the DC white wire at the water heater control board while electric is on.
@@MRRVTECH I’ll give that a check when we get back home tomorrow. An amp clamp is the one tool I don’t have with me on the road. Where might this control board be located at. When running on electric is it running on DC or AC current?
Yes you can run both at the same time. It may last a little longer but the main advantage of running both gas and electric is a much quicker recovery time.
I have a question about the wiring of the 120 volt relay. My water heater stopped working, and I traced the lack of 120 volt power back to the relay, but, I'm not sure it is the relay. The wiring diagram is similar to what you show in your video. The white bypasses the relay and goes straight to the heating element. The black wire goes to the relay, then down to the switch next to the element. There is also a ground wire that comes from the relay to a ground connection and then there is another wire from the relay that does not terminate to anything. Should this wire connect to anything?!?
@javiertorrez4771 the ground wire is a 12 volt chassis ground and the other wire...typically yellow is a 12 volt+ signal wire from the control box. The 12 volt circuit engages the relay from the control allowing the hot 120v black cir uit to close.
@@MRRVTECH then my water heater does not work on electric, that wire, the yellow 12 volt + ends in wire nut and does not terminate to the controller. Could this be a wiring mistake from the previous owner?
@11:40 You tell us those wires are going to be wired to the coach for your switches! That's what I need to know how to do! I went from an Atwood to the suburban water heater and I need to know how to wire it to the coach for the switches. Please help!
Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken
You're welcome! Thank you for watching
One of the best videos I have ever watched. Thank you for the great presentation.
Thank you for the kind words and for watching!
Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time
Even though I don't understand English, Mister showed everything perfectly!
Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.
So awesome. You explained this so great! We are having hot water check valve issues and I am so glad I found this video.
I very much appreciate the thorough explanation. You answered questions I had and now I’m sure I can get my unit back up and running.
Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out
Thanks for watching!
Thorough review of the heater operation. Good JOB!
What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak
Your suspicion is justified, probably a hole in the tank.
Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.
Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.
Thanks for a thorough explanation. Hope you will continue to post new videos!
This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.
For those having issue with no flame to your water heater. Check your propane regulator. Mine was bad and was not letting the propane flow. I had replaced the gas valve, electric element and was ready to order the circuit board when I decided to check for gas flow trying to turn on the stove and it wouldn’t light
@@erod6214 good advice
Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction
Wow, you really know this stuff and are very articulate. Excellent! This is the first site I've subscribed to. TY
Thanks for watching Eric!
Best How it works I have found on a Suburban Water Heater. Thanks!
Great to hear!
This video and your explanation are handy! Thanks Pard! 👍🤠🇺🇲
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
You are the best. Thank you !
If you haven’t heard it enough, Great Video!
I have a SW6DEL, and bought Anode bars and noticed that the threading (male) on the rod didn’t screw in all the way. The rods are the same size outer end to outer end, however, the replacement had a bit more, about 1/16-1/8, or two more rounds of threads more. I wish I could upload a picture.
I was concerned about the end making contact with the wall of the tank. Now knowing that is glass, it worries me.
The rod is about 1/8 not screwed flush. I don’t think what I replaced was screwed flush. I’ve seen some videos that show the anode rod being replaced but it’s not detailed enough. The camera pans away.
Last, I have a 1973 Chinook Camper, the water heater was updated within the last year, give or take a few months. Still, I took the anode rod out, not knowing what it was and thinking it was just a way to let out the water for winterizing the camper.
I was hoping to learn if there was a cut valve to prevent the RV antifreeze from getting in the water heater tank. Maybe that’s an add-on on the outside, somewhere near the in source. I know where to look now.
In addition, I am glad that you showed how to remove the gas burner it seems that it’s easier to replace the heating rod/element with the burner out of the way.
Many Thanks!
Robin
Excellent video. I learned a great deal in a short time. Thank you.
Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.
That switch is the 120 volt AC switch your new water heater will come with one
Good job my friend. A lot simpler than I thought.
Great video. I’m waiting to go to rv tech school and now I have a leg up.
You can do it!
Mine steadily deteriorated and initially took a few fires to get going but got worse till it took several restarts and then just wouldnt start at all. The gas burner actually fired up each time but after a few seconds went out however I noticed the piezo ignitor continued to fire even after the burner lit each time. That mad eme think it was a thermocouple issue that wasnt getting to temperature fast enough after it ignited. After watching several vids on these heaters I removed, realigned and cleaned the ignitor probes which incorporate the thermocouple but while this improved the number of times it took to start the problem persisted. I noticed that the flame was a bit yellow so I cleaned the brass gas jet with about a nunber 61 nozzle file and while that didnt appear to be restricted it did restore the flame to all blue and now it fires up immediately every time for the first time in a very long time. So make sure you clean that jet out along with everything else.
Thanks for the video. I'm checking my anode and flushing my tank tomorrow!
Pretty sure you're wrong about the tstats. The bottom tstat is temperature activated and set to 130F. That's the one regulating the operation of the water heater. Its spring loaded and continuously opens the circuit (at temp) and resets when the WH cools below set temp. Should it fail, the top tstat (also called the ECO) will break the circuit at 180F and that one needs to to be reset manually. There is no one-shot tstat on the Suburban WH as far as I'm aware. You're probably confusing this with the ECO fuse on the Atwood/Dometic which would melt in the event of a backfire from the burn chamber.
This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.
anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode
You're welcome
Man! Fantastic video. Thank you for producing this content. 👍👍
Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.
Could be a few things, I wouldn't run out and buy a control board with out having a technician diagnose it first.
So well explained! Very helpful! Thank you!!!
You're welcome
good video... learned alot in a quick time. Straight forward.
Excellent video by the way.
Great walk through, thanks for the training.
So, I'm cruising around every video on Suburban units that I can find. I'm starting to think my issue is an oddball: I can't turn the electric element off from inside, only with the switch on the unit, itself. The 12v switch definitely works. The only other options I can think of is that it's wired right up to 12v and not through the switch or a bad control board.... maybe? I don't know how much access I have to the back of the unit, and I REALLY don't want to pull the whole thing out.
@davevoecks6264 Many RV manufacturers do not provide interior 120v switches for the suburban heating element....( probly saves them $5) Most people just use the water heater circuit breaker as an interior switch in this case.
Exactly what I needed thank you......
Awesome video sir. Perfect tutorial.
Very nice video. Thank you!
Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.
Excellent video.
Excellent information. Thank you. One question is where to order parts?
@richmiddleton1704 any rv dealer would have parts and I've seen some on Amazon as well
Excellent video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
🎉Hello, Very informative!
I am hoping that you can tell me how to wire the 12-volt colored wires to the coach.
Replacing my SW12DEL with a tankless. The Suburban is rusting out after 4 years, gives me nothing but smelly water. Replaced heating elements, thermostats, multiple anodes...now it is a leaky, rusty mess.
This guy nails it for the uninitiated camper mechanic
Uninitiated? I've been doing this 6 days a week for 18 years, run my own mobile service and I'm a master certified RVIA/RVDA technician. I've seen the best and worst.....lol. Thanks for watching!
@@MRRVTECH i was referring to myself! Not you at all except you broke it down for my dumbass to get it done.
I am the uninitiated, unwashed! Not you by any means! Sorry for the misunderstanding, you are a great teacher as well as tradesman
@MrRVTech - ABSOLUTELY A GREAT, WELL DONE video! You deserve the rewards from the advertisements.
My only Q to you is "Does a BAD" 110v element show open or closed circuit ?
I just pulled on with fried wires ... Thinking it shorted?
Or maybe they fried from poor connection.... idk.
But I am curious as to if the elements will die closed as well as open?
Yes, if you do an OHMS reading it would read OL or if it's burnt but still touching the ohms would be wildly incorrect.
Great Video! I do have a question. If I put my water heater out the side of the couch will the water lines come out too so I can disconnect them or do I have to go inside and take the wall panels off to disconnect the water line.
@akichler It can go either way.... if you have braided hoses....pull it out, if you have pex piping, take them off the back first.
@@MRRVTECH Thank you!
Thank you great walk through
I’m powering up a used RV and can’t light water heater. RV has been unused for a few years and in general is pristine.
Great information !!! 👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍🔧🔧
Super helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry but you should have read the manual first. The twosnap discs with the manual reset are the EOC's. Their job is only as a failsafe if the lower normal thermostat fails to open once the setpoint has been reached. This keeps from overheating the appliance. It also forces a human to manually rest the switch to figure out why because normally these switches do NOT trip. If you lose hot water and must manually reset an ECO, that's fine. That's why they're re-settable compared to a one-shot fuse, such as used over burners.
The lower pair are you normal on/ off thermostats. When you first power up, the line voltage left hand one is normally closed and the right hand not receiving power. The burner fires heating the water. If there is no water, the ECO will trip to protect the unit. Once set point has been reached 135F +/- 5F, the lower left switch breaks open stopping further heating. When the water cools down below 100F or fresh cold water enters it senses this and resets closing the switch repeating the cycle. If there is no line voltage, you can use the12 volt wiring to control the LP burner. It uses the right side ECO and limit switch. ECO's typically trip around 185F. The Temperature/ Pressure relief valve trips at 210F or 150 psi.
My sw6de sits in a cabinet. Heard a hissing noise to open the cabinet and find moisture, mold, and some puddles water from the water heater. I assume the noise im hearing is steam escaping from under the Styrofoam thats around the tank. I think if it was leaking there would be more water. Turned off water it still makes the noise. Cut the breaker to it and the noise stopped. Would my tank be cracked at the top possibly? Why would i feel steam coming from the top of the tank around the Styrofoam?
Yes your tank has a hole or crack in it, time for a new water heater.
Josh, I NEED help. There's a tiny pinhole inside the combustion tube wall , that is causing water to leak out. Can that be fixed?
@mr.trevino.4356 no, it will need replaced.
electric ignition on gas water heater does not come to light gas, is it the valve or the module that could be bad? Electric side of heater works fine. Thanks
Probably the board " module"
My Suburban Hot Water tank has 110volt on the white wire going to the element and black wire is ground coming from switch and thermostat. I can't get to the junction box without removing the tank. Have you ever seen this? I believe the wiring was done at factory.
Good video but in all the one i have watched , include this one , no one shows where is the main gas connection ..Under ? left side ? Right side ? Behind ? Top ? Thanks !!
Left, outside
@@MRRVTECH Thank you , would be good to show it on video as quiet essential the gas connection and no one shows it in any video i have watch so far about this product ... 🤔
Well this will be a test if you do respond so I had to replace the thermal fuse and a new one is starting to do the same thing in less than a month
What is the thermal fuse? Doing? Suburban water heaters are not equipped with thermal fuses
I need to replace my heating element and the black and white wire running to it. (power and neutral) Where does the other side of thr wires terminate?
Black terminates at the left hand thermostat and ECO above it, white terminates in the j box mounted to the side of the tank
Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.
Great video, very much appreciated! I was hoping you’d take out the propane combustion chamber.. (pringles can shaped metal tube) that the flame heats up. Does that come out and can it be replaced? The inside of mine is pretty heavily rusted to where penny sized rust flakes are actually hanging down, where the propane flame contacts, down the entire tube interior. Makes me wonder if it’s still structurally sound. I didn’t want to heat it up using propane, and have the metal combustion chamber expand and leak. So I’m concerned to even use propane at this point to heat it up. I had mine running only electric for about a year and I believe condensation formed on the inside of the combustion tube.. causing it to rust. Not sure.. Do you know if this is fixible? Everything else is functioning as it should with roughly 1 year of use after being brand new. It did also sit out at the land dry/empty for about 2.5yrs. Hoping I can replace that combustion chamber, but not sure if that chamber/tube contacts water directly on the inside or not as well, and or how thick it is. I’d imagine it does contact the water directly, if it’s essentially the propane heating element. Also my anode was gone as well after 1yr use, definitely should have checked on it sooner, but I don’t think that would have rusted out and compromised the combustion chamber that quickly do you?
Also, while the anode rod wasn’t replaced after 1yr, the rv had been stationary. So I don’t think the glass liner was damaged at all thankfully from the debris moving back and forth etc. just hoping it didn’t compromise and rust out the combustion chamber.
How common is it for the board to go out? Can't get hot water with either electric or propane. Changed thermostat already. Thank u
I would consider it fairly common.
Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Nice job. One issue. I noticed the threads on your Anode have teflon tape on them. Please talk about the need for the threads to make contact with the tank in order for the Anode to work properly. Leaks are an issue without the teflon tape.
Whoa! good catch! Damn glad I read the comments
It's actually not an issue suburban anode rods come pre taped from the factory
Very helpfull just learning
The three wires that come from the control board area are they just powered by a switch? I do not have a switch on my rv other than the one on the water heater how would I install those wires
Yes white is electric and orange is gas ( 12 volt)
Why is the anode rod and receiving joint so corroded? That happened on ours after our first year of owning it. It was throughly dried out before it was winterized by dealer and put into storage. Its so bad we can not, to spite all our efforts (wire brushing, lubricant, new tape, etc.) to thread the rod into it. Called the RV manufacturer, dealer and Suburban. No one has an explanation.
I have a question. my heater works on gas then when i turn on electric, the igniter fires and turns on the propane. When I pull a wire off of the DC thermostat switch, the igniter will not fire and the electric coil heats the tank. How does it know not to use the gas when the electric is on? Is that a control board issue?
It sounds like the switches are wired backward?
Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.
Hi there MR RV One question I have is are you better to drain the water in times of layup when not being used ??
For sure!
Might be a good idea to cover some of the design differences between Suburban and Dometic/Atwood. Terrific job on the video!
Surely you did 𝐧𝐨𝐭 say he did a bad job on the vid.
My switch inside usually turned red when on and now doesn't. Is it common for them to go out? Doesn't ignite ar all now and I have propane.
How do you wire up the control board to the rv? Is there a swit c h i should buy? My old water heater was gas only the new one is electric/gas and im unsure what i need for this.
Yes you will need a switch kit and wiring. There is wiring diagram on the water heater.
Hi. Great video. I am full-time in my rig and would like to know how to clean out the burn tube and the chamber where the flame goes, because I found a bunch of moths in there. Is there some sort of long flexible brush meant to clean out the burn tube? Also what is the name of that socket that you used to take the aluminum panel off that was connected to your drill?
Yes, I have an 8" brush with nylon brush on the end. Not sure what tool you are referring to but I used a phillips bit, a 1/4" hex bit and a 3/8" hex bit to disassemble.
Does it have a dip tube or is the check valve work for a dip stick
Great video. You covered everything except replacing the thermocouple! Any chance of doing that please ?
My dad has this unit and it calls for heat, then cycles 3 times and cuts out...and you have to turn it off from inside the trailer. I think the electronic spark, flame sensor is bad. What do you think?
Quite possible the flame sense is bad, but gas pressure also has to be eliminated as an issue as well as a clean burner tube and combustion chamber.
I have a problem with my water system getting air into it and noticed my pressure relief valve on my hws hissing. So i think its sucking air over the couple of months untill our next journey. Do i need to replace the pressure relief valve?
Yes
Great job explaining the ac side what about the dc side
You failed to mention the remedy for a gunked up anode-rod..How do you clean it..?
You don't clean them they are sacrificial, replace only.
Thank you for this. We have a Suburban SW6D. Does this mean it is a 6 gallon tank?
Yes
Do the on and off switch under gas regulator fail. I didn’t see you test it
Yes they do.....often
Thank you, why would my water be getting to hot? Also why would 120 connects at the outside switch and the thermostat be burnt? Great video thanks!!
Hi thanks for the great video. I need some help with a question and would like to ask you if you could be so kind to help if you can. I bought a forest river 5th wheel and about a year ago and didn't know anything about the anode rod and it rotted thru the bottom of the tank .so I bought a replacement on eBay it's the 5243A SW10DE. I bought an open box water heater thinking I could save some money . I really don't want to return it if I don't have too. So it arrived yesterday and I gave it a good look over and I noticed on the pressure relief side of the fire box that the metal around the top of the pressure relief valve had a dent . Then I looked down between the tank and the fire box and on the back side of the fire box where the pressure relief sticks thru there appears to be a rubber gasket up against the fire box . Is that a seal or does the pressure relief actually screw into a fitting that is part of the tank and I don't need to worry about that rubber gasket? Because they tightened it and the rubber gasket is only about 1/2 under the shoulder it was meant to be in contact with .the bad news is they tightened the brown wire between the two surfaces mate instead of on the gasket . Looking at it I don't think removing the pressure relief will loosen the surface I am talking about it appears to be some type of flange that holds the fire box to the tank and the relief valve screws into it. I realize I need to get the wire out from in-between the two surfaces or maybe cut it and replace it all together but is that gasket sealing the water or just a nicety? Thank you for taking a look at my problem.
The pressure relief valve screws directly into a welded fitting in the tank, the gasket you see does not retain any water it is a barrier between the combustion pan and tank. I would just cut the wire off and run a new one. Best of luck!
@@MRRVTECH thank you so much.
Thank you for the great video! Is there a test to determine why the propane will light and not stay on. I have cleaned the intake tube but still have a problem Thanks!
Great video, but can you show how the two switches work on the electric side in the rv and on the hot water tank , why can’t I shut down the electric side in the rv ????? I have to go out side to turn the electric side off … The gas works okay ! Thanks for your service and help . G
The on/off switch will not click into the on position. Is the switch bad or is there something else going on?
Switch is bad
I just bought the SW10DE to replace my very old Atwood 10 gallon. I'm confused about the wire connections because the new suburban has 6 wires plus the normal AC wires. My old Atwood only has 3 wires blue, green and white for the 12 volt. Plus the normal AC black, white and green for electric.
I have a circuit breaker for the electric on and off.
I have a 12 volt rocker switch with a light for gas use.
Can someone tell me how to connect 6 wires 12volt from the new suburban unit where there's only 3 wires to the RV that the old 1994ish Atwood used? I haven't had hot water for a week now due to only a small leak in the tank and need to get this new one installed asap.
It sounds like you bought the new gas electric DSI model, since you don't have an interior electric switch, just omit those wires. Wire the gas wires to your switch based off the schematic just inside the door.
Changing out my water heater from manual light to a switch light. The water heater has 3 wires coming out of it I’m assuming one is ground then one would go to the switch but not sure about the 3rd. I tested the one it came out of the wires one was 13.7v the other 11.7 and the other I would say ground. I need to add a switch then I can get power from tapping another wire or run to panel.
My surburban water heater has a slight gas leak from the jet. Can the valve be adjusted, or does the whole valve unit need to be replaced? Thanks
@jewelerguy just replace the whole valve for safety sake
@@MRRVTECH Thank you so much for your quick response.
Well done !!!!!
I’ve been out in my Travel trailer this week and heard a high pitch tone coming from the water heater when it was running on electric. The noise would stop when I would turn the water heater electric switch off and would come back on when the switch was turned back on. A few days later after coming back to the trailer after an hour walk and noticed the fan by the service panel, I assume it was the inverter cooling fan, was coming on and going off. This was every few seconds, on off on off. It stopped fluctuating on off when I turned the water switch to off and immediately started doing it when the switch was turned back on. I’m still away from home and am using the propane for the hot water heater, which that part is working just fine. In both instances the water coming out was hot. Any ideas what should look for when I get home.
Good one! Sounds like a strain on the 12 volt side of the converter while the water heater is on electric, possibly a relay in the control board. I would test the amperage on the DC white wire at the water heater control board while electric is on.
@@MRRVTECH
I’ll give that a check when we get back home tomorrow. An amp clamp is the one tool I don’t have with me on the road. Where might this control board be located at. When running on electric is it running on DC or AC current?
Can you run both the gas and 110 at the same time for longer lasting hot water?
Yes you can run both at the same time. It may last a little longer but the main advantage of running both gas and electric is a much quicker recovery time.
I have a question about the wiring of the 120 volt relay. My water heater stopped working, and I traced the lack of 120 volt power back to the relay, but, I'm not sure it is the relay. The wiring diagram is similar to what you show in your video. The white bypasses the relay and goes straight to the heating element. The black wire goes to the relay, then down to the switch next to the element. There is also a ground wire that comes from the relay to a ground connection and then there is another wire from the relay that does not terminate to anything.
Should this wire connect to anything?!?
@javiertorrez4771 great observation!
@javiertorrez4771 the ground wire is a 12 volt chassis ground and the other wire...typically yellow is a 12 volt+ signal wire from the control box. The 12 volt circuit engages the relay from the control allowing the hot 120v black cir uit to close.
@@MRRVTECH then my water heater does not work on electric, that wire, the yellow 12 volt + ends in wire nut and does not terminate to the controller. Could this be a wiring mistake from the previous owner?
@@MRRVTECH is there a wiring diagram for the relay to the circuit board?
@@javiertorrez4771 sounds like somebody's hands have been on it
@11:40 You tell us those wires are going to be wired to the coach for your switches! That's what I need to know how to do! I went from an Atwood to the suburban water heater and I need to know how to wire it to the coach for the switches. Please help!
Hi what is the make or model of your ignition board tester? Could you do a video on how the board tester works? Thanks great video
What if my suburban heater is not sparking? I hear no clicking with the igniter, but I can hear the gas turning on and smell
It. But not spark… thanks
What would cause the 110 volt switch to overheat and freeze up?
Heat and melted plastic
!!UPDATE!!
Hello again well I figured it out on the reset, turns out the tube that lets the gas in tube was blocked