Thanks for the video and Nice Car! May I suggest a time-saving trick for threading the new wires down inside the column? Tape a "dummy" wire to the ends of the old wires before pulling them up and out. Then tape that same wire to the new ones and pull them down and through. No need to remove the cone and you'll save enough time to sit back and enjoy a wobbly-pop!
Haha, thanks! So far I've put outtakes at the end of all my Mustang videos, but it's the least watched part of any video. Maybe I'm not as funny as I think I am? :)
This is great. The previous owner of my '66 rigged a little button below the dash that honks the horn. While I hate messing with wiring, I'll order a new turn signal switch and give this a try.
The only "difficult" part is making sure the pins are in the correct spot on the connectors when you put it all back together. Hopefully this video and your own notes should be able to get it done! :)
Thanks for the video. I also have a '66 so your videos are perfect for the repairs and upgrades I want to make. I am not that familiar with Ford wiring connectors so your tip about removing the individual wire conductors was most useful. I am not sure if my connectors are different from yours but I got the impression from your video that there was a single tab/button to push which would release all of the conductors. Perhaps I misunderstood. In any case, I found that each conductor had a minuscule tab that needed to be depressed in order to release the conductors. Otherwise your video was great as always. I particularly appreciate the upbeat attitude in your voice. It makes each job much more approachable.
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to pull some value from my videos! :) You are correct, each wire has its own "tab" that must be depressed to release the wire from the connector. Sorry if I did not make that clear enough. :)
Ok!! Love the video! We are working on my 16 year olds mustang. We went to change the turn signal harness and wires and we couldn’t undo the connectors from the turn signal and the wiring harness. After a few hours of pulling and twisting, I finally got it. It had shorted and the yellow wire had melted in the connector. Then I realized the yellow wire behind it had been melted and pulled back… I ordered new male and female wire connectors in case I have to replace. What should I do? Do you know what the yellow wire goes to? Horn? Lights? Now I’m lost. I cannot find the wire harness connector either… please some advice would be helpful!!
I don't know the year of your Mustang, but if it's a '66, the only yellow wire in that harness is for the horn. The solid yellow is coming into the harness, goes to the horn button, and the yellow wire with a blue stripe comes out of the harness and goes out to the horn. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for your quick response… ok, my 2 sons earned their eagle and I bought them fixers… 65 and 66. We are working on 65. I wish I could show pics, but it’s the straight yellow wire and it melted and tore up a little. I’m. Not sure how this could have happened, but I’m assuming I should try to replace the whole wire to the horn?? Thoughts?
Hey Andy another good video. I've been pulling my hair out trying to determine what's wrong with my horn. I just replaced my steering wheel with a CJ model similar to yours, and at the same time I replaced the horn/turn signal switch assembly because the old one had a broken return cam. After reassembly and testing everything, I think the problem is a bad replacement switch assembly. I think the spring-loaded horn contacts aren't contacting with the steering wheel hub. Not loving the thought of pulling all that wiring again, but here we go. Second point: Do your turn signals self-cancel? I noticed (at the 5:00 mark) that your new hub does not have the two steel dowels inserted. Those dowels are supposed to push the turn signal cam when you return the wheel to centre after your turn. Have you found a different way to cancel your signals? The original design is okay, but ultimately it's why the turn signals break - as the plastic gets brittle those dowels will eventually snap one or both sides of the turn signal switch.
If the spring loaded contacts aren't contacting the steering wheel hub, the hub either needs to go in a little farther, or you may want to see if the those contact pins are aligned correctly with the copper pads on the hub. This was on my previous Mustang and I believe I later pulled the hub off and installed those canceling pins. However, I pushed them in too far into the hub and I think I still had to manually cancel the turn signal. I forgot exactly, but it was something like that.
@@AndyKruseChannel yeah I'm stumped. I "raised" the entire column closer to the steering wheel to make a better connection with the two contacts. I can see through the column gap that the contacts move slightly when I turn the wheel, so I know they're both contacting the hub. Horn button tests okay on its own, so does the hub, and bridging the two contact pins. All I can think of is the two pins are somehow not right relative to the hub, but I give up. BTW, for anyone else reading this, if your cancelling pins aren't working with your new switch assembly, try sliding the entire column very slightly back toward the steering wheel. I compared my new Drake switch assembly to the OEM one and the Drake is very slightly thinner. Moving it (along with the column) closer to the steering wheel ensures the cancelling pins are where they need to be. You only need a hair of space between the column and the hub.
Yeah I have same setup as you, and horn loud jumping wires at horn but I guessing contacts wore down just hair short of contact. Andy what does putting adapter in Key down do, seen no slot or something to mount onto?
actually Andy I saw why that key there. If you have the pin sticking up where that sits that is the turn signal cancellation, yours like mine no pin there, now I think about it I had a pin in my packing for adapter but I see no spot to plug into turn signal switch.
Good question, I try to list these parts in the description for each video. I bought it from CJ Pony Parts, OEM Style replacement, Part # TSW24. It was about $30. :)
Maybe someone overtightened it the last time it was open? Based on the design of the gas cap, I can't see how it would get stuck on there unless someone had damaged the locking section?
Well I got my car today and a few things going on with it that I’m gonna have to definitely get my hands dirty right away I guess that’s why I’m looking at your horn not working video because I’m putting a different steering wheel on it probably tomorrow no courtesy light back up lights aren’t working probably the only thing that’s really concerning me right now is the doors don’t lock so they have to fix those
Thanks for the video and Nice Car! May I suggest a time-saving trick for threading the new wires down inside the column?
Tape a "dummy" wire to the ends of the old wires before pulling them up and out. Then tape that same wire to the new ones and pull them down and through. No need to remove the cone and you'll save enough time to sit back and enjoy a wobbly-pop!
Great tip! I have to do this all over again on my new car, I'll probably give your advice a try when I get there. :)
Great video Andy. I found myself cheering for you, especially after that tool broke. The outtakes cracked me up!
Haha, thanks! So far I've put outtakes at the end of all my Mustang videos, but it's the least watched part of any video. Maybe I'm not as funny as I think I am? :)
This is great. The previous owner of my '66 rigged a little button below the dash that honks the horn. While I hate messing with wiring, I'll order a new turn signal switch and give this a try.
The only "difficult" part is making sure the pins are in the correct spot on the connectors when you put it all back together. Hopefully this video and your own notes should be able to get it done! :)
Thanks for the video. I also have a '66 so your videos are perfect for the repairs and upgrades I want to make. I am not that familiar with Ford wiring connectors so your tip about removing the individual wire conductors was most useful. I am not sure if my connectors are different from yours but I got the impression from your video that there was a single tab/button to push which would release all of the conductors. Perhaps I misunderstood. In any case, I found that each conductor had a minuscule tab that needed to be depressed in order to release the conductors. Otherwise your video was great as always. I particularly appreciate the upbeat attitude in your voice. It makes each job much more approachable.
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to pull some value from my videos! :)
You are correct, each wire has its own "tab" that must be depressed to release the wire from the connector. Sorry if I did not make that clear enough. :)
Thanks for this great video, Andy! You took your time and instructions were extremely clear…
Glad it was helpful!
Ok!! Love the video! We are working on my 16 year olds mustang. We went to change the turn signal harness and wires and we couldn’t undo the connectors from the turn signal and the wiring harness. After a few hours of pulling and twisting, I finally got it. It had shorted and the yellow wire had melted in the connector. Then I realized the yellow wire behind it had been melted and pulled back… I ordered new male and female wire connectors in case I have to replace. What should I do? Do you know what the yellow wire goes to? Horn? Lights? Now I’m lost. I cannot find the wire harness connector either… please some advice would be helpful!!
Also, your video helped me pull all my connectors out with a screw driver… I had no idea. I took it all a part thanks to your video!
I don't know the year of your Mustang, but if it's a '66, the only yellow wire in that harness is for the horn. The solid yellow is coming into the harness, goes to the horn button, and the yellow wire with a blue stripe comes out of the harness and goes out to the horn. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for your quick response… ok, my 2 sons earned their eagle and I bought them fixers… 65 and 66. We are working on 65. I wish I could show pics, but it’s the straight yellow wire and it melted and tore up a little. I’m. Not sure how this could have happened, but I’m assuming I should try to replace the whole wire to the horn?? Thoughts?
You could try to splice in a new piece of wire where the other one melted. If that doesn't work, you may need to get a whole new turn signal harness.
Hey Andy another good video. I've been pulling my hair out trying to determine what's wrong with my horn. I just replaced my steering wheel with a CJ model similar to yours, and at the same time I replaced the horn/turn signal switch assembly because the old one had a broken return cam.
After reassembly and testing everything, I think the problem is a bad replacement switch assembly. I think the spring-loaded horn contacts aren't contacting with the steering wheel hub. Not loving the thought of pulling all that wiring again, but here we go.
Second point: Do your turn signals self-cancel? I noticed (at the 5:00 mark) that your new hub does not have the two steel dowels inserted. Those dowels are supposed to push the turn signal cam when you return the wheel to centre after your turn. Have you found a different way to cancel your signals? The original design is okay, but ultimately it's why the turn signals break - as the plastic gets brittle those dowels will eventually snap one or both sides of the turn signal switch.
If the spring loaded contacts aren't contacting the steering wheel hub, the hub either needs to go in a little farther, or you may want to see if the those contact pins are aligned correctly with the copper pads on the hub.
This was on my previous Mustang and I believe I later pulled the hub off and installed those canceling pins. However, I pushed them in too far into the hub and I think I still had to manually cancel the turn signal. I forgot exactly, but it was something like that.
@@AndyKruseChannel yeah I'm stumped. I "raised" the entire column closer to the steering wheel to make a better connection with the two contacts. I can see through the column gap that the contacts move slightly when I turn the wheel, so I know they're both contacting the hub. Horn button tests okay on its own, so does the hub, and bridging the two contact pins. All I can think of is the two pins are somehow not right relative to the hub, but I give up.
BTW, for anyone else reading this, if your cancelling pins aren't working with your new switch assembly, try sliding the entire column very slightly back toward the steering wheel. I compared my new Drake switch assembly to the OEM one and the Drake is very slightly thinner. Moving it (along with the column) closer to the steering wheel ensures the cancelling pins are where they need to be. You only need a hair of space between the column and the hub.
Thank you for this. Best how to video out there
I appreciate that!
Great video
Helped with my 73 mustang Thanks
Awesome, this kind of stuff is always great to hear! :)
Yeah I have same setup as you, and horn loud jumping wires at horn but I guessing contacts wore down just hair short of contact. Andy what does putting adapter in Key down do, seen no slot or something to mount onto?
actually Andy I saw why that key there. If you have the pin sticking up where that sits that is the turn signal cancellation, yours like mine no pin there, now I think about it I had a pin in my packing for adapter but I see no spot to plug into turn signal switch.
Haha, this is great, you answered the question for me. :)
Hello where did you buy that part I have the same issue. Thx.
Good question, I try to list these parts in the description for each video. I bought it from CJ Pony Parts, OEM Style replacement, Part # TSW24. It was about $30. :)
Thx I just bought it.
@@pierrepatenaude6877 Awesome, good luck!
And although it has a full tank of gas I cannot get that gas cap off I’m gonna have to really look at that tomorrow
Maybe someone overtightened it the last time it was open? Based on the design of the gas cap, I can't see how it would get stuck on there unless someone had damaged the locking section?
Well I got my car today and a few things going on with it that I’m gonna have to definitely get my hands dirty right away I guess that’s why I’m looking at your horn not working video because I’m putting a different steering wheel on it probably tomorrow no courtesy light back up lights aren’t working probably the only thing that’s really concerning me right now is the doors don’t lock so they have to fix those
Hopefully there's some good info in that video for you and your next project.
Great topic, but get rid of the obnoxious, disruptive music!
The video is almost 3 years old, not much I can do about it.