I want to create mechanical things as well I will say that Heat set press threads are a ton better and better than 3D printing thread in the print... I can't wait to get this press and get my designs updated to include these in.
7:07 - CNC Kitchen sells a set of insert tools with the smaller insert tools having longer shanks for better clearance to avoid ramming the soldering iron heater into the 3D print and melting adjacent structures.
I like the idea of collecting cool tools so before I pull the trigger now I will have to do some research in figuring out how and where will I be using this interesting tool. Great show and tell video btw, thanks for sharing.
Great point! There are some models out there that call for heat set inserts. Plus you do get the benefit of also getting a soldering iron with this guy
looking at getting one of these bad boys myself for some upcoming parts im printing . i was looking at just purchasing that specific soldering iron and the inserts but that was going to be 30.00$ so might as well spend the extra 20.00 to avoid damaging the finished prints with misaligned heat inserts .. thanks for the video keep up the good work … i typically work more with dj gear showing how to fix and maintain but if you would like give my channel a look. you will see the faders i created with help from my crew for portable turntables ...
Much as I like buying tools, I think I'll try to be careful when free hand installing heat set inserts into 3D prints rather than having a press taking up valuable shop space. I mostly got heat set inserts and the insert tools for my Hakko soldering iron to use with other people's designs that I occasionally download. I usually design parts that blind peg together (with or without epoxy) or I use self tapping screws designed for plastic, but most of the time I press a stainless hex nut in from the rear or occasionally drop it in a slot on the side. The brass inserts don't need access to the back of part and the brass threads will last longer when disassembled and reassembled compared to self tapping threads in 3D printed plastic.
been thinking of building one. but like how you found out. it costs more than some of the versions available online. so i put it on pause, and have only done them manually. but i should really either find another way to make it myself or just spend the money lol
I don't think a press is necessary but definitely makes some things easier for sure, great video lol I'm still waiting for that printer give away at 1k 🤣
My preferred method of using screws with 3D printed parts, is to take an appropriate tap and thread the printed hole. When I design holes that will use this method, I design them at the size of drill bit the tap recommends. So like for an m3 hole, I design it at 2.9mm diameter. And then I run a tap through that hole (after it's done printing, of course). It cuts nice threads, of course inserts would be stronger. I wouldn't use this tapped plastic method for a Voron frame. I wouldn't use it on mission critical hardware. But computer cases, things around the house, it works fine. Running the tap into the plastic only requires about the same force as, like, a self tapping screw going in for the first time. You don't need a T handle, just a screwdriver handle really. I 3D printed handles for the sizes I commonly use. And you don't need to use high end taps that would be appropriate for tapping steel. The $5 set I bought on Amazon 6 years ago still work fine - because the plastic doesn't really dull or risk breaking the tap. I started using brass inserts because people asked for it, and I feel like they're a lot of hassle and sometimes end up going crooked and ruining a print. And a lot of my stuff, using a tool like this is not really an option - I don't necessarily have a plane parallel to the plane I'm putting a threaded hole into, on which to sit the part, when I use the tool to insert the insert (lol at that sentence). These tools only kind of work when you're putting an inserts into a fairly flat/square panel - it wouldn't' work so well for something like head bolts on a v8 engine replica - where there's no plane opposite the headgastket surface on which to sit the model while you press the inserts in perpendicularly.
In my experience, this is completely unnecessary and a waste of money. It is not faster than if you simply hold the soldering iron in your hand, and it is even more inconvenient. This can be used if you use an insert where the lamellae are not screwed, i.e. the cheaper version. The more difficult it is to keep the perpendicular. But if you put it in an object whose other side is not parallel to the top of the hole, then it will only be a pain. The solution is to buy a good type of insert, which is slightly more expensive, but due to the twisted lamellae, it is more difficult to slide out. it's easier to insert because it's designed that way. You can buy kits in which you get a soldering iron and these inserts. Recently, I saw a good technique on UA-cam that can be used well. allow the insert to sink in until the upper ring, and then you can press it in further with a larger screw ground flat, or by turning it on the table. However, you have to make sure that the pad is still warm enough! It's a simple soldering iron, that's why the temperature was set to 320 degrees, it wasn't invented for these, it can only be used for this. In the youtube video, the guy made such a tool for himself, grinding an old bad soldering tip to the right size. 👍
I want to create mechanical things as well I will say that Heat set press threads are a ton better and better than 3D printing thread in the print... I can't wait to get this press and get my designs updated to include these in.
7:07 - CNC Kitchen sells a set of insert tools with the smaller insert tools having longer shanks for better clearance to avoid ramming the soldering iron heater into the 3D print and melting adjacent structures.
I like the idea of collecting cool tools so before I pull the trigger now I will have to do some research in figuring out how and where will I be using this interesting tool. Great show and tell video btw, thanks for sharing.
Great point! There are some models out there that call for heat set inserts.
Plus you do get the benefit of also getting a soldering iron with this guy
I press them in until there's like 0.5mm protruding, then take a flat surface and push it flush with the part.
Can you adjust the level of it so it's perfectly perpendicular?
looking at getting one of these bad boys myself for some upcoming parts im printing . i was looking at just purchasing that specific soldering iron and the inserts but that was going to be 30.00$ so might as well spend the extra 20.00 to avoid damaging the finished prints with misaligned heat inserts .. thanks for the video keep up the good work … i typically work more with dj gear showing how to fix and maintain but if you would like give my channel a look. you will see the faders i created with help from my crew for portable turntables ...
Much as I like buying tools, I think I'll try to be careful when free hand installing heat set inserts into 3D prints rather than having a press taking up valuable shop space. I mostly got heat set inserts and the insert tools for my Hakko soldering iron to use with other people's designs that I occasionally download. I usually design parts that blind peg together (with or without epoxy) or I use self tapping screws designed for plastic, but most of the time I press a stainless hex nut in from the rear or occasionally drop it in a slot on the side. The brass inserts don't need access to the back of part and the brass threads will last longer when disassembled and reassembled compared to self tapping threads in 3D printed plastic.
been thinking of building one. but like how you found out. it costs more than some of the versions available online. so i put it on pause, and have only done them manually. but i should really either find another way to make it myself or just spend the money lol
I just don’t want to scrap a printer or spend more money for the same thing. I’m very happy with this one so far!
I don't think a press is necessary but definitely makes some things easier for sure, great video lol I'm still waiting for that printer give away at 1k 🤣
I want that printer out of the shed! I have stuff on the way and I need the room! Sooner we hit 1000 the sooner I can give something cooler away!
You should design and print a little vise to hold parts.
FANTASTIC SUGGESTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh come no one talks about what size to model your hole vs the size of the insert? So if you have a 4mm insert what size would I model my hole?
You can just hold the button to change the temp
I did the same thing on my V0.2 rebuild your good
Lol that is very reassuring! I haven't started the build yet, we're doing a live stream series Tuesdays at 8pm Eastern :)
My preferred method of using screws with 3D printed parts, is to take an appropriate tap and thread the printed hole. When I design holes that will use this method, I design them at the size of drill bit the tap recommends. So like for an m3 hole, I design it at 2.9mm diameter. And then I run a tap through that hole (after it's done printing, of course).
It cuts nice threads, of course inserts would be stronger. I wouldn't use this tapped plastic method for a Voron frame. I wouldn't use it on mission critical hardware. But computer cases, things around the house, it works fine.
Running the tap into the plastic only requires about the same force as, like, a self tapping screw going in for the first time. You don't need a T handle, just a screwdriver handle really. I 3D printed handles for the sizes I commonly use. And you don't need to use high end taps that would be appropriate for tapping steel. The $5 set I bought on Amazon 6 years ago still work fine - because the plastic doesn't really dull or risk breaking the tap.
I started using brass inserts because people asked for it, and I feel like they're a lot of hassle and sometimes end up going crooked and ruining a print. And a lot of my stuff, using a tool like this is not really an option - I don't necessarily have a plane parallel to the plane I'm putting a threaded hole into, on which to sit the part, when I use the tool to insert the insert (lol at that sentence). These tools only kind of work when you're putting an inserts into a fairly flat/square panel - it wouldn't' work so well for something like head bolts on a v8 engine replica - where there's no plane opposite the headgastket surface on which to sit the model while you press the inserts in perpendicularly.
In my experience, this is completely unnecessary and a waste of money.
It is not faster than if you simply hold the soldering iron in your hand, and it is even more inconvenient.
This can be used if you use an insert where the lamellae are not screwed, i.e. the cheaper version.
The more difficult it is to keep the perpendicular.
But if you put it in an object whose other side is not parallel to the top of the hole, then it will only be a pain.
The solution is to buy a good type of insert, which is slightly more expensive, but due to the twisted lamellae, it is more difficult to slide out.
it's easier to insert because it's designed that way.
You can buy kits in which you get a soldering iron and these inserts.
Recently, I saw a good technique on UA-cam that can be used well.
allow the insert to sink in until the upper ring, and then you can press it in further with a larger screw ground flat, or by turning it on the table.
However, you have to make sure that the pad is still warm enough!
It's a simple soldering iron, that's why the temperature was set to 320 degrees, it wasn't invented for these, it can only be used for this.
In the youtube video, the guy made such a tool for himself, grinding an old bad soldering tip to the right size.
👍
Comment. Like.......
overly complicated soldering iron setup.