How can we fuse onyx parts with PLA parts, where a bucket shape has been designed to nest inside another! (but half is onyx and a half is PLA? Glueing?
I'm not a fan of press in inserts. My go to is to create a hex cavity, erase the support material, create a pause statement at the top of the cavity, drop in a real nut of any material you choose, continuing printing for a fully embedded piece of hardware that is guaranteed to not pull out or spin. A video on that procedure would be equally as beneficial. Your thoughts??
Even better is rectangle nut as from my experience hex nut can sometimes spin inside the cavity if the force is too big. With rectangle nut - no chance. Plus the front area is bigger so it’s more difficult to pull it.
@@volkhen0 Prusa uses rectangular nuts in their machine, and there's no need to pause the print to put them in. You can have the customer do it with needle nose pliers while cursing.
@@volkhen0 what about adding a dab of epoxy to the sides of the squared/rectangular nut so it fills and solidifies any remaining gaps in the cavity? or useless?
2:27 you took 5.74mm from the data sheet but that's called out as the minimum material thickness, not the hole diameter. Two lines below that is the hole diameter you should have used, 0.221" (5.61mm).
In practice, the exact hole dimension isn't too critical, unless you're going for optimum strength and alignment, which you might not necessarily need for your application. Heatsets are remarkably strong. There is a video of a guy who put his full body weight to pull against it and it still held up. Depending on your design, your part would break before the insert pulls out. Most through holes and slots are designed to be oversized for the screw you will use, so that gives you extra leeway. Just like you wouldn't specify all your tolerances to 1 mil, you don't need everything to be perfect. Sometimes, you just need to get the job done.
Where do I find the datasheet ? I tried this 2 years zog .. but wrong :D the filament came back into the insert render it useless. But I did not know about the datasheet :D
Great guide, answered a lot of my questions! The only thing i am unsure about is the 1:46 part. Are those holes bigger than the screw's biggest outer diameter or will the screw actually touch these walls? I am using m2 screws, what diameter should this part be?
Where can I find a data sheet? That tells me what size hole I need for what insert. I've been looking and I cannot find one. Can somebody please help me
The data sheet can be found from the manufacturer or reseller of whatever size screws and inserts you buy. We purchased ours from McMaster and pulled the data from them.
I think there is a mistake in the tips, it should be: Set soldering iron 50-100 °C BELOW temperature of printer nozzle. Also note that there are inserts with some lips that provide much more pulling resistance, even more than nuts.
I think it should be: Set soldering iron 5-10 °C above temperature of printer nozzle. So, a factor 10 less than what he says in the video. This also aligns with the advice of the web site of cnckitchen.
The temperature seems very high. I find if I use high temps the insert will not centre easily and the central screw hole fills with plastic so you cannot screw in the screw. Someone else where suggested the temperature should not exceed the plastic phase of the material. This allows the insert to be inserted accurately without material being squeezed into the threaded part. I use inserts mainly when the part needs to be undone frequently. ( e.g. battery lid fastening).
Ruined quite a few attempts from his 50 degrees over and then setting his iron to 180 more than the melting point. Then, no mention about rendering the insert useless because it's full of plastic.
You ignored the spec sheet callout for an 8° taper in the hole. A straight hole is adequate, but for optimum pull out and torsional strength the 8° taper is important.
Spec sheet is a guide, not a rule. You don't always need the maximum strength, and can get away with different dimensions. There is a video where a guy tested heatset inserts for a range of hole diameters, and most of them held up quite strong. Just expect to experiment around to find one that works for you, as it might not work the first few times. 3D printing is about experimentation after all, not blindly following rules.
What DFAM tips do ya'll want us to cover in a future episode? Shout out below!
How can we fuse onyx parts with PLA parts, where a bucket shape has been designed to nest inside another! (but half is onyx and a half is PLA? Glueing?
100/100 production quality. Holy crap, it's actually impressive
thanks for the info, am building a voron right now, and this is very helpful
I'm not a fan of press in inserts. My go to is to create a hex cavity, erase the support material, create a pause statement at the top of the cavity, drop in a real nut of any material you choose, continuing printing for a fully embedded piece of hardware that is guaranteed to not pull out or spin. A video on that procedure would be equally as beneficial. Your thoughts??
Very clever! And thank you for the idea for an upcoming video. 💪
Even better is rectangle nut as from my experience hex nut can sometimes spin inside the cavity if the force is too big. With rectangle nut - no chance. Plus the front area is bigger so it’s more difficult to pull it.
Oh yeah! Nice one Mariusz -- thanks for watching and for the tip!
@@volkhen0 Prusa uses rectangular nuts in their machine, and there's no need to pause the print to put them in. You can have the customer do it with needle nose pliers while cursing.
@@volkhen0 what about adding a dab of epoxy to the sides of the squared/rectangular nut so it fills and solidifies any remaining gaps in the cavity? or useless?
2:27 you took 5.74mm from the data sheet but that's called out as the minimum material thickness, not the hole diameter. Two lines below that is the hole diameter you should have used, 0.221" (5.61mm).
You're totally right, good catch.
Good catch Tort! And thanks for letting us know.
Don’t forget to add the diameter of the print nozzle to get an accurate hole on a 3 d printed part.
@@stephenbarlin2314 So if I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle then all my walls would bulge out a minimum of 0.2mm from each direction?
In practice, the exact hole dimension isn't too critical, unless you're going for optimum strength and alignment, which you might not necessarily need for your application. Heatsets are remarkably strong. There is a video of a guy who put his full body weight to pull against it and it still held up. Depending on your design, your part would break before the insert pulls out. Most through holes and slots are designed to be oversized for the screw you will use, so that gives you extra leeway. Just like you wouldn't specify all your tolerances to 1 mil, you don't need everything to be perfect. Sometimes, you just need to get the job done.
Where do I find the datasheet ?
I tried this 2 years zog .. but wrong :D the filament came back into the insert render it useless. But I did not know about the datasheet :D
Thank you 50-100 beyond printing time was that what I was searching for.
Happy to know I can use my cheap soldering iron! Great tutorial 🤘🤘
Great guide, answered a lot of my questions! The only thing i am unsure about is the 1:46 part. Are those holes bigger than the screw's biggest outer diameter or will the screw actually touch these walls? I am using m2 screws, what diameter should this part be?
Where can I find a data sheet? That tells me what size hole I need for what insert. I've been looking and I cannot find one. Can somebody please help me
The data sheet can be found from the manufacturer or reseller of whatever size screws and inserts you buy. We purchased ours from McMaster and pulled the data from them.
I think there is a mistake in the tips, it should be: Set soldering iron 50-100 °C BELOW temperature of printer nozzle. Also note that there are inserts with some lips that provide much more pulling resistance, even more than nuts.
I think it should be: Set soldering iron 5-10 °C above temperature of printer nozzle. So, a factor 10 less than what he says in the video. This also aligns with the advice of the web site of cnckitchen.
The temperature seems very high. I find if I use high temps the insert will not centre easily and the central screw hole fills with plastic so you cannot screw in the screw. Someone else where suggested the temperature should not exceed the plastic phase of the material. This allows the insert to be inserted accurately without material being squeezed into the threaded part. I use inserts mainly when the part needs to be undone frequently. ( e.g. battery lid fastening).
Yeah I thought so too. I have the same soldering iron as him, and I set it to 200C, and it goes in quicker than shown.
Ruined quite a few attempts from his 50 degrees over and then setting his iron to 180 more than the melting point. Then, no mention about rendering the insert useless because it's full of plastic.
Está bien chingón tu video. Muy útil. Gracias...
You ignored the spec sheet callout for an 8° taper in the hole. A straight hole is adequate, but for optimum pull out and torsional strength the 8° taper is important.
Great call out, Robert. We'll be sure to include details like that in future videos.
If the hole tapers 8° is the diameter called out the major or minor dimension?
Spec sheet is a guide, not a rule. You don't always need the maximum strength, and can get away with different dimensions. There is a video where a guy tested heatset inserts for a range of hole diameters, and most of them held up quite strong. Just expect to experiment around to find one that works for you, as it might not work the first few times. 3D printing is about experimentation after all, not blindly following rules.
thank you for your comment, I took good note of that.
The biggest problem is that a lot of inserts that can be purchased at reasonable prices do not come with a spec sheet which is inobtaonium.
Thanks !!!
LOL "datasheets from the inserts" - most of us are using cheap inserts that come with nothing whatsoever.
Fuck that I use McMaster Carr only
Could skip the finger snapping, but otherwise good.
Thanks for the comment, Colin!
Nice
You are! Thanks for watching, Tan
Да ладно, прям вот так и ставят их?