Like stated in this video, there is so much that goes into launching a drag car and keeping it straight and as stable as possible. I could not cover everything in this Part 1, but I will be releasing a Part 2 soon. Slick selection is so critical, then comes air pressure on those slicks/radials. I would continue to encourage keeping everything working together and not get one shock way different than the other shock(s). Certainly offset is required at times on many aspects of the suspension, but my point is try to not make all adjustments with one part of the suspension. Small amounts of preload to move weight, small amounts of wheelie bar stagger, small amounts of shock adjustments (even some small offsets), small amounts of air pressure change, etc.. these all work together and will help keep the suspension working and not bound up! I cannot reiterate enough knowing your scaled corner weights. With that you can make decisions based on facts with how your car responds. Also, with technology these days, so many vendors have quality products. The key is finding a vendor you trust, and then get the shock for your suspension with regard to travel, installed height, corner weights, etc.. Comment, like and subscribe please!
I will say, Fromm over twenty years experience myself in building high performance engines, high-end modifications, racing etc etc etc, not only does this guy know what he's talking about , he explains this very well. And so for anybody here who is new to this and or learning, I highly recommend paying attention. See it's easy to sound like you know what you're talkin about to those who don't, but when you do like myself, it's another thing. And with the unfortunate amount of people making videos who have no clue what they are talking about and or out right giving terrible advice, and even sometimes from so-called professionals, and so when somebody is on point I feel the need to say something. I understand the struggles of this, the amount of time and or money wasted because there is so much bad information, and or trying to Attain this information is near impossible. Many years ago when I got started I wish there were people who would have or could have set me straight on what is correct and what is not. So if I can help out somebody else and save them some of the headaches I went through, then all the better. And heck he's got a new subscriber, cuz for one I'd rather watch stuff like this any day over some Keeping Up with whore-dashians reality TV nonsense, and two, even with many years experience , I can always learn something new. Because any true mechanic, technician, Builder, specialist, etc etc is always learning, and never too arrogant to realize and admit this.
David Grant thanks so much for your comments and Wow I appreciate all the accolades! It means a lot to read a comment like this for sure and I certainly appreciate you taking the time to write your comments. More content on the way this week! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC no problem. As I pretty much said, we need to weed out bad information and commend good information. Especially in these days where everybody is more interested in their own 15 minutes. All too many will make a video and not even care to make sure what they're passing on is accurate information. And then you have others who would pretty much make a carbon copy video of another video and perpetrate like it was their own. In other words me making a video pretty much saying everything you just said. Regardless true Car Guys, or people in these type fields should stick together, build a strong community, and we should take the time, especially any professional to another, to weed out the bad information and commend the good. People will make time to rip apart one another, and typically it's only to build their own reputation and or get likes and views, Etc Another thing I see that bothers me with a lot of videos out there is, that they greatly over sophisticate. And that may sound all fancy, it may make somebody look super intelligent, but very rarely does it help the student. It kind of reminds me of a certain quote by Einstein on teacher to student conduct. Regardless, I think your approach, and the Simplicity used to convey this information, was great. This is what beginners need, and sometimes those who've been doing it a long time but don't have true understanding of what's going on. They may understand you need this for that and that for this, because they've heard it around, but don't actually understand when and why. Something like this fills that Gap well.
Wow... very informative! I'm not a racer, but my old classic truck is getting a set of QA1 single adjustment shocks. I know dual settings are available, and now I am more informed what the different products can, will, or don't need to do for me. Very clear presentation... Thank you!
Very glad that I found this video. I have been pulling my hair out (and am having less to pull out day to day!) for months wondering why my nova is spinning. I've turned to the suspension now, and am in the process of working some suspension issues out. Thanks for explaining how shocks work so thoroughly. Now I think I know enough to be dangerous!
Thanks for putting these videos out! I too am struggling with traction issues on my 63 nova small 4 link coil over car. Hopefully we can get it straightened out. Again thank you!
Update!! About to get the new QA1 double adjustable shocks for the 48 Ford Coupe. I will be doing a new video on those soon and going over how the front suspension works with launching a drag car! Of course, every car is different to some degree or another, but the same principles apply at a high level. At the end of the day, it is all about the combination and learning what your car/suspension wants and needs. Stay tuned!
I know these videos are a little old. But I'm just getting into drag racing cars. I have experience racing motorcycles. But I'm getting smarter with age. Lol. I want a cage with the speeds I'm hitting. Lol I'm learning so much from your videos. I'm sure you've heard it before but thank you.
Love the video man. I had a nitrous LS Fox that I was having trouble with consistency. One pass id cut a 1.2 60’ and the next id wheel hop or just smoke the tires. But I just switched to turbo (not for that reason) and knew I couldn’t mess around with guessing at the suspension settings anymore. This video really gave me a lot of insight. Looking forward to part 2 and your front coil over video. Running a MT pro bracket radial.
Brett Dearman thanks so much for your comments! That video will be coming out soon, sorry for how long these take. Also, we will be doing video at the track as we tune the launch with this new combo. Not much longer before we are live again.
best and most helpful video I have watched was really struggling getting car to work now feel like it will hook on grass followed steps to check shocks and suspension found a couple problems car now is great. looking forward to more videos
Andrew Thorpe thanks so much for your comments! I have enjoyed helping you and I apologize for all the delays in my responding. Your car is looking good for sure. Go fast, go straight!
jan de jong thanks so much for your comments! I have never been to the Netherlands but it is on my bucket list!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!! jan de jong heel erg bedankt voor je reacties! Ik ben nog nooit in Nederland geweest maar het staat op mijn bucketlist !!! Ga snel, ga rechtdoor! Wees veilig !!
The best way to set shocks is from full tight down to loosen. This is the only way to be exact because one shock could have 30 clicks from the loosest point to the tightest and the other shock could have 22 clicks from loose to tight. This is because of valving differences. When you are full tight both shocks have the valve closed as far as it will go. Now as you start clicking down, loosening the shocks, the position of the valve will be exactly the same each click. I hope I explained that so it's understood.
Great video, really helped me put together what exactly I'm controlling with the turn of the knobs. I had an idea but not really, if that makes sense. Switched my manual trans car from a QTP to a radial and with this info as well as the addition of a clutch tamer, I should now be able to get this thing to leave properly. Thank you.
Do you have a video about the scaling process? I have new double adjustable Qa1 coilovers all the way around on my back halfed ladder bar pro street 68 mustang. Need some guidance on how to set up preload and such rather than setting just ride height
Mikeyhunts thanks so much for your questions! I have many videos on preload and scaling, but I can work on another video that shows the preload process specifically for sure. For now checkout my video here: ua-cam.com/video/T5XNxSmIjjc/v-deo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I doubt you will read this since the video is old but on a radial car wouldn't you want the springs to be close to coil bind when the shock if fully collapsed to use that stored energy for separation?
At what point do you buy a set of Penske shocks. My car runs in the mid 5;50s 1;27 60 ft. Can more gear ratio help with a more consistent 60 ft by hitting the tire harder on a border line race track. My car is good except one track I go too. What adjustments should I make to my strange double adjustables
Good video. You say it's not black magic, but I recently swapped out my 20 year old singles and "upgraded" to double adjustables, and they are kicking my butt. I think it was a bad decision at this point for me to "upgrade" them.
Rob Hetzler thanks so much for your comments! Sorry you are struggling. Depending on your application and what single adjustables you had, you may need to just start at a baseline setting based on the valving in your new shocks. I would encourage you to call the shock company and explain your situation and get them to share what settings you should start with on the new shocks. Don't give up! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks for replying. Funny thing is, I did call them and managed to get the one guy at QA1 in the tech dept who knew nothing about drag racing. LOL I finally got on a decent track this past weekend and was able to find something that worked. Hopefully I now have a baseline I can use to adjust from when I get someplace the track isnt as good.
Kevin, thanks for the video. I'm happy with my launches with 1.19 to 1.22 60' times but am struggling with traction 1/2 way to 3/4 way down the track. Any advice on shock tuning down wind?
Jeff Jones thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond after we get more info on your setup. So many chassis and setup variables involved so I would be wrong to give you general advice without a lot more understanding of your paricular setup. Go fast, go straight!
Thanks for the great video Kevin. My shocks are mounted on the front of my rearend vs. the rear. Does the 25-30% compression still apply to selecting the correct spring rate? Also when initially setting up a car and finding weights what do you use? 14" solid link in place of rear shock? same for front?
Brian Boles thanks so much for your comments! The spring compression still applies as the spring needs to allow the compression and extension to function and not be too heavy to prevent those movements, while supporting the weight of the car. We do not use solid links in place of the spring for finding any weights. We can get the shock settings fairly neutral and we generally get close with the springs just based on how many of these we have done. Most of the companies you talk with can get you really close so I would recommend starting there and scaling from there. Not saying the solid link will not work, we just don't use that approach to get started. Hope this makes sense. Go fast, go straight!
Alexandru Mardare thanks so much for your comments! I wish it was that simple. It all depends on the car and whether it is separating the rear end or squating on the rear end.. The main thing is understanding what the Compression and Rebound clicks mean, so as you see how your car is reacting, you can use the shock to help keep control of those movements. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hi Kevin, I just have been watching Tim McAmis Performance Video that’s named „Schock Series: 04 - Tuning Basics“ and I don’t know if they are saying exactly the opposite of what you are saying or it’s just me understanding it completely false🤷🏻♂️ I would be very grateful if you could take a look and tell me, if it they are actually saying the opposite or it’s just me Not understanding
Alexandru Mardare thanks so much for your comments! You are absolutely asking a great question! First of all Tim's videos are freaking amazing. The video you are talking about from Tim's channel is talking about big tire and big power slick cars that are setup to squat and not separate. In my video, I am primarily talking about a car that separates and doesn't squat. I always try to get closer to the Anti Squat line on my cars and even have a little separation with more than 100% AS, even with slicks. On the full tube chassis cars with squat, they are explaining how to get more weight over the slicks on a less prepped track, which means you actually soften compression to get more weight transfer over the rear. The main goal is to understand how the Compression and Rebound clicks interact with what your rear end is doing on the hit. Remember, each car is unique. Also, great observation and one of the best questions I have been asked yet! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Good video!! Just liked and subed! I'm new to the shock setup world! I have the same shock on my 92 turbo mustang so, I will be learning how it does soon! Follow so you can help me adjust ;-)! Going to the track in up coming weeks!
I've watched this video several times. You confuse me with Compression and Rebound and their purpose. Rebound - R , states to me the rate in which it returns, after being planted.
I really recommend you watch this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_KBBPG1xLksek9j4VH3j5CF.html R=Rebound which is when the shock is trying to extend; C=Compression which is when the shock is trying to "compress". Depending on your suspension setup determines "return". Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Billy Shepherd thanks so much for your comments! Compression and bump are the same. Rebound and extension are the same. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC that’s awesome thanks! New sub here. Have a friend who started racing top fuel last year and cant stop thinking about drag racing lol Got any suggestions on books about the history of drag racing particularly the 60’s and early 70’s?
All of these drag race videos are all regurgitating the same wrong info. definition of monkey see monkey do. 10% compression or 40 % compression is the same. Same weight on the springs either way. It only matters for droop travel and does not change "return force" at all.
Feel free to ignore my channel completely. We can respectfully agree to disagree. It absolutely matters with stored energy in the spring. Best of luck!
@@brendenbanks9293 I completely understand the weight on the spring dictates the amount of compression on the spring. Your original comment specifically stated "does not change return force at all." Like I said I completely disagree with you as with the spring more compressed it absolutely has more stored energy to deliver to chassis movements on the rebound, but that is fine for us to agree to disagree. L8R
@KevinWilsonSBC Yes, the return force does not change. You put 700lb on a 700lb spring it compresses 1 inch (10% of a 10" stroke). You put 700lb on a 175lb spring it compresses 4" (40% of a 10" stroke). They both have 700lb of "stored energy" because that's how much weight is on the spring. You're right in that 10% is too stiff but youre wrong on the WHY. You need more rebound travel. You don't need to run softer spring though that's dumb. You can just run helper springs to change the bump/droop distribution. Unless you're trying to talk about the valving of the damper itself but you're not saying anything about that.
@@brendenbanks9293 Like I said, we can agree to disagree. You do you and I will do me. All good. In drag racing we don't like adding any unnecessary weight when we do not have to add weight. So there are 100% times when a softer spring will absolutely improve the first 100' of the launch, especially if too stiff of a spring is currently installed. I have more videos on this topic where I discuss shock valving and how critical it is to understand shock dyno data. We may be splitting hairs on semantics here, but your "monkey see, monkey do" comments are really not necessary. Shoot me the link to your videos on this matter, I will definitely watch them.
Like stated in this video, there is so much that goes into launching a drag car and keeping it straight and as stable as possible. I could not cover everything in this Part 1, but I will be releasing a Part 2 soon. Slick selection is so critical, then comes air pressure on those slicks/radials. I would continue to encourage keeping everything working together and not get one shock way different than the other shock(s). Certainly offset is required at times on many aspects of the suspension, but my point is try to not make all adjustments with one part of the suspension. Small amounts of preload to move weight, small amounts of wheelie bar stagger, small amounts of shock adjustments (even some small offsets), small amounts of air pressure change, etc.. these all work together and will help keep the suspension working and not bound up! I cannot reiterate enough knowing your scaled corner weights. With that you can make decisions based on facts with how your car responds. Also, with technology these days, so many vendors have quality products. The key is finding a vendor you trust, and then get the shock for your suspension with regard to travel, installed height, corner weights, etc.. Comment, like and subscribe please!
I got a 2015 mustang gt 750 whp spin and aquad to much i order bmr spring but i dont know what shocks should i put could you tell me please thank you
I feel like I am listening to a presentation from an engineer. That is refreshing. Thank you.
My idea of what should work was completely wrong. Thank you for making this video.
I will say, Fromm over twenty years experience myself in building high performance engines, high-end modifications, racing etc etc etc, not only does this guy know what he's talking about , he explains this very well. And so for anybody here who is new to this and or learning, I highly recommend paying attention. See it's easy to sound like you know what you're talkin about to those who don't, but when you do like myself, it's another thing. And with the unfortunate amount of people making videos who have no clue what they are talking about and or out right giving terrible advice, and even sometimes from so-called professionals, and so when somebody is on point I feel the need to say something. I understand the struggles of this, the amount of time and or money wasted because there is so much bad information, and or trying to Attain this information is near impossible. Many years ago when I got started I wish there were people who would have or could have set me straight on what is correct and what is not. So if I can help out somebody else and save them some of the headaches I went through, then all the better.
And heck he's got a new subscriber, cuz for one I'd rather watch stuff like this any day over some Keeping Up with whore-dashians reality TV nonsense, and two, even with many years experience , I can always learn something new. Because any true mechanic, technician, Builder, specialist, etc etc is always learning, and never too arrogant to realize and admit this.
David Grant thanks so much for your comments and Wow I appreciate all the accolades! It means a lot to read a comment like this for sure and I certainly appreciate you taking the time to write your comments. More content on the way this week! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC no problem. As I pretty much said, we need to weed out bad information and commend good information. Especially in these days where everybody is more interested in their own 15 minutes. All too many will make a video and not even care to make sure what they're passing on is accurate information. And then you have others who would pretty much make a carbon copy video of another video and perpetrate like it was their own. In other words me making a video pretty much saying everything you just said. Regardless true Car Guys, or people in these type fields should stick together, build a strong community, and we should take the time, especially any professional to another, to weed out the bad information and commend the good. People will make time to rip apart one another, and typically it's only to build their own reputation and or get likes and views, Etc
Another thing I see that bothers me with a lot of videos out there is, that they greatly over sophisticate. And that may sound all fancy, it may make somebody look super intelligent, but very rarely does it help the student. It kind of reminds me of a certain quote by Einstein on teacher to student conduct.
Regardless, I think your approach, and the Simplicity used to convey this information, was great. This is what beginners need, and sometimes those who've been doing it a long time but don't have true understanding of what's going on. They may understand you need this for that and that for this, because they've heard it around, but don't actually understand when and why. Something like this fills that Gap well.
Wow... very informative! I'm not a racer, but my old classic truck is getting a set of QA1 single adjustment shocks. I know dual settings are available, and now I am more informed what the different products can, will, or don't need to do for me. Very clear presentation... Thank you!
Very glad that I found this video. I have been pulling my hair out (and am having less to pull out day to day!) for months wondering why my nova is spinning. I've turned to the suspension now, and am in the process of working some suspension issues out. Thanks for explaining how shocks work so thoroughly. Now I think I know enough to be dangerous!
Going Bracket Racing thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks for putting these videos out! I too am struggling with traction issues on my 63 nova small 4 link coil over car. Hopefully we can get it straightened out. Again thank you!
Awesome explanation of everything. I love your passion, and it comes through in your ability to explain these concepts.
Update!! About to get the new QA1 double adjustable shocks for the 48 Ford Coupe. I will be doing a new video on those soon and going over how the front suspension works with launching a drag car! Of course, every car is different to some degree or another, but the same principles apply at a high level. At the end of the day, it is all about the combination and learning what your car/suspension wants and needs. Stay tuned!
I know these videos are a little old. But I'm just getting into drag racing cars. I have experience racing motorcycles. But I'm getting smarter with age. Lol. I want a cage with the speeds I'm hitting. Lol I'm learning so much from your videos. I'm sure you've heard it before but thank you.
You are welcome!! Thanks, Tim for leaving a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Love the video man. I had a nitrous LS Fox that I was having trouble with consistency. One pass id cut a 1.2 60’ and the next id wheel hop or just smoke the tires. But I just switched to turbo (not for that reason) and knew I couldn’t mess around with guessing at the suspension settings anymore. This video really gave me a lot of insight. Looking forward to part 2 and your front coil over video. Running a MT pro bracket radial.
Brett Dearman thanks so much for your comments! That video will be coming out soon, sorry for how long these take. Also, we will be doing video at the track as we tune the launch with this new combo. Not much longer before we are live again.
best and most helpful video I have watched was really struggling getting car to work now feel like it will hook on grass followed steps to check shocks and suspension found a couple problems car now is great. looking forward to more videos
Andrew Thorpe thanks so much for your comments! I have enjoyed helping you and I apologize for all the delays in my responding. Your car is looking good for sure. Go fast, go straight!
Hey buddy, thanks for that explanation, now I'm curious to buy one of those shock, thanks 😊 👍
hey Kevin, thanks for the great video. greetz from the Netherlands
jan de jong thanks so much for your comments! I have never been to the Netherlands but it is on my bucket list!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!! jan de jong heel erg bedankt voor je reacties! Ik ben nog nooit in Nederland geweest maar het staat op mijn bucketlist !!! Ga snel, ga rechtdoor! Wees veilig !!
Awesome instructional video. Thanks so much for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
The best way to set shocks is from full tight down to loosen. This is the only way to be exact because one shock could have 30 clicks from the loosest point to the tightest and the other shock could have 22 clicks from loose to tight. This is because of valving differences. When you are full tight both shocks have the valve closed as far as it will go. Now as you start clicking down, loosening the shocks, the position of the valve will be exactly the same each click. I hope I explained that so it's understood.
Great video, I didn't even know 2 way adjustable shocks existed although I'm not into drag racing, however very informative
+R-Dizz Automotive thanks for subscribing!
Great stuff as usual Kevin.
I appreciate that!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Best video ive seen on this topic. Thank You!
Syskill thanks so much for your comments and the accolades! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great video. Hopefully I can get my 60’ down.
Talk Of The Town Hi-Performance & Transport. thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks man, you aswell 😎
Great video, really helped me put together what exactly I'm controlling with the turn of the knobs. I had an idea but not really, if that makes sense. Switched my manual trans car from a QTP to a radial and with this info as well as the addition of a clutch tamer, I should now be able to get this thing to leave properly. Thank you.
Thanks for the comments. Video on the front coilovers coming soon!
G8R 5OH thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight!
Great explanation. Thx for putting the work in.
Jason Hartin thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thank you so much man...
You are definitely clear...
Good job buddy
Everton Domingos da Silva thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight!
Do you have a video about the scaling process?
I have new double adjustable Qa1 coilovers all the way around on my back halfed ladder bar pro street 68 mustang.
Need some guidance on how to set up preload and such rather than setting just ride height
Mikeyhunts thanks so much for your questions! I have many videos on preload and scaling, but I can work on another video that shows the preload process specifically for sure. For now checkout my video here: ua-cam.com/video/T5XNxSmIjjc/v-deo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I doubt you will read this since the video is old but on a radial car wouldn't you want the springs to be close to coil bind when the shock if fully collapsed to use that stored energy for separation?
Great explanation! Thank you!
Paul McDonald thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight!
At what point do you buy a set of Penske shocks. My car runs in the mid 5;50s 1;27 60 ft.
Can more gear ratio help with a more consistent 60 ft by hitting the tire harder on a border line race track.
My car is good except one track I go too. What adjustments should I make to my strange double adjustables
Thanks a lot kevin so glad I found you..... Chuck m.
BRIANNA'S Life thanks so much for your comments! Glad you found the channel. Appreciate your support of the channel. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
"THANK YOU!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍✌
JIMI MAC ROSS thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight!
Good video. You say it's not black magic, but I recently swapped out my 20 year old singles and "upgraded" to double adjustables, and they are kicking my butt. I think it was a bad decision at this point for me to "upgrade" them.
Rob Hetzler thanks so much for your comments! Sorry you are struggling. Depending on your application and what single adjustables you had, you may need to just start at a baseline setting based on the valving in your new shocks. I would encourage you to call the shock company and explain your situation and get them to share what settings you should start with on the new shocks. Don't give up! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks for replying. Funny thing is, I did call them and managed to get the one guy at QA1 in the tech dept who knew nothing about drag racing. LOL I finally got on a decent track this past weekend and was able to find something that worked. Hopefully I now have a baseline I can use to adjust from when I get someplace the track isnt as good.
Hi,i can run my ladder bar suspension nova without panhard bar or antirollbar? Thanks
Great info
Kevin, thanks for the video. I'm happy with my launches with 1.19 to 1.22 60' times but am struggling with traction 1/2 way to 3/4 way down the track. Any advice on shock tuning down wind?
Jeff Jones thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond after we get more info on your setup. So many chassis and setup variables involved so I would be wrong to give you general advice without a lot more understanding of your paricular setup. Go fast, go straight!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Got this figured out at the track but thanks for the quick reply. Great videos, please continue to share your knowledge!
Thank you
You're welcome Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Awesome Awesome video
Thanks for the great video Kevin. My shocks are mounted on the front of my rearend vs. the rear. Does the 25-30% compression still apply to selecting the correct spring rate? Also when initially setting up a car and finding weights what do you use? 14" solid link in place of rear shock? same for front?
Brian Boles thanks so much for your comments! The spring compression still applies as the spring needs to allow the compression and extension to function and not be too heavy to prevent those movements, while supporting the weight of the car. We do not use solid links in place of the spring for finding any weights. We can get the shock settings fairly neutral and we generally get close with the springs just based on how many of these we have done. Most of the companies you talk with can get you really close so I would recommend starting there and scaling from there. Not saying the solid link will not work, we just don't use that approach to get started. Hope this makes sense. Go fast, go straight!
Wow thank you
David vonAnderseck thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I recognize the logo on your hat. I think i am in your neck of the woods. Bullets?
Mount Pleasant SC.
Good video
Greg Mccoy thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be safe!
Man and i just thought you can slap those bad boys on turn the knobs a little to the left then to the right then drive
So looser extension and tighter compression hits more.
Tighter extension an looser compression hits less?
Alexandru Mardare thanks so much for your comments! I wish it was that simple. It all depends on the car and whether it is separating the rear end or squating on the rear end.. The main thing is understanding what the Compression and Rebound clicks mean, so as you see how your car is reacting, you can use the shock to help keep control of those movements. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Man...... I was using rebound COMPLETELY WRONG. And it shows in my cars performance. Tons of horsepower and no traction.
Kaleb Hall thanks so much for your comments! I think getting the 48 Ford launched with this new build will be fun for sure.
@@KevinWilsonSBC hopefully you post it! You're making that heavy car haul the mail. Very impressive
For sure. The video will show the initial start absolutely. Thanks man for the support!
Hi Kevin,
I just have been watching Tim McAmis Performance Video that’s named „Schock Series: 04 - Tuning Basics“ and I don’t know if they are saying exactly the opposite of what you are saying or it’s just me understanding it completely false🤷🏻♂️
I would be very grateful if you could take a look and tell me, if it they are actually saying the opposite or it’s just me Not understanding
Alexandru Mardare thanks so much for your comments! You are absolutely asking a great question! First of all Tim's videos are freaking amazing. The video you are talking about from Tim's channel is talking about big tire and big power slick cars that are setup to squat and not separate. In my video, I am primarily talking about a car that separates and doesn't squat. I always try to get closer to the Anti Squat line on my cars and even have a little separation with more than 100% AS, even with slicks. On the full tube chassis cars with squat, they are explaining how to get more weight over the slicks on a less prepped track, which means you actually soften compression to get more weight transfer over the rear. The main goal is to understand how the Compression and Rebound clicks interact with what your rear end is doing on the hit. Remember, each car is unique. Also, great observation and one of the best questions I have been asked yet! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you, I thought that that car is setup to separate, it makes a lot more sense now
Good video!! Just liked and subed! I'm new to the shock setup world! I have the same shock on my 92 turbo mustang so, I will be learning how it does soon! Follow so you can help me adjust ;-)! Going to the track in up coming weeks!
frank 3stangs704 thanks so much for your comments! I will definitely check out your channel tonight or tomorrow. Go fast, go straight!
I've watched this video several times. You confuse me with Compression and Rebound and their purpose. Rebound - R , states to me the rate in which it returns, after being planted.
I really recommend you watch this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_KBBPG1xLksek9j4VH3j5CF.html
R=Rebound which is when the shock is trying to extend; C=Compression which is when the shock is trying to "compress". Depending on your suspension setup determines "return". Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Anyone else here from the No Limit 2.0 community? Wonder if "compression" is same as in game "bump"
Billy Shepherd thanks so much for your comments! Compression and bump are the same. Rebound and extension are the same. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC that’s awesome thanks! New sub here. Have a friend who started racing top fuel last year and cant stop thinking about drag racing lol Got any suggestions on books about the history of drag racing particularly the 60’s and early 70’s?
All of these drag race videos are all regurgitating the same wrong info. definition of monkey see monkey do. 10% compression or 40 % compression is the same. Same weight on the springs either way. It only matters for droop travel and does not change "return force" at all.
Feel free to ignore my channel completely. We can respectfully agree to disagree. It absolutely matters with stored energy in the spring. Best of luck!
@KevinWilsonSBC the stored energy is dictated by the corner weight.
@@brendenbanks9293 I completely understand the weight on the spring dictates the amount of compression on the spring. Your original comment specifically stated "does not change return force at all." Like I said I completely disagree with you as with the spring more compressed it absolutely has more stored energy to deliver to chassis movements on the rebound, but that is fine for us to agree to disagree. L8R
@KevinWilsonSBC
Yes, the return force does not change.
You put 700lb on a 700lb spring it compresses 1 inch (10% of a 10" stroke). You put 700lb on a 175lb spring it compresses 4" (40% of a 10" stroke). They both have 700lb of "stored energy" because that's how much weight is on the spring.
You're right in that 10% is too stiff but youre wrong on the WHY. You need more rebound travel. You don't need to run softer spring though that's dumb. You can just run helper springs to change the bump/droop distribution.
Unless you're trying to talk about the valving of the damper itself but you're not saying anything about that.
@@brendenbanks9293 Like I said, we can agree to disagree. You do you and I will do me. All good. In drag racing we don't like adding any unnecessary weight when we do not have to add weight. So there are 100% times when a softer spring will absolutely improve the first 100' of the launch, especially if too stiff of a spring is currently installed. I have more videos on this topic where I discuss shock valving and how critical it is to understand shock dyno data. We may be splitting hairs on semantics here, but your "monkey see, monkey do" comments are really not necessary. Shoot me the link to your videos on this matter, I will definitely watch them.