Speedpainting 20 Tyranids in a Day with
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- A bit late on this video but finally had the time to edit it all together. I decided to try using the Slapchop speedpainting technique to help save some time on this massive batch of Termagants and I'm pretty happy with the results.
#warhammer #leviathan #speedpaint #slapchop #tyranids
00:00 - Intro
00:55 - Drybrush Basecoat
03:09 - First Attempt
06:35 - Second Attempt
07:18 - Phase 1 Timelapse
08:45 - Phase 1 Finished
08:55 - Phase 2 Timelapse
11:05 - Final Highlights
11:25 - Outro - Ігри
Throwin those Gaunts at the table like the Hive Mind threw them at Baal
painted all 20 of my termagaunts yesterday as well, using slapchop. now that i've figured it out, it's made painting way more fun for me. managed to crank out all of these guys in 2 hours.
100% agree! Also wow, 2 hours is a solid effort, took me a fair bit longer to do mine.👍
I really love the colors on your Tyranids, they look great to me!
I love how you painted your Tyranids. Its a lot more of a subtle paint job than GWs box art. Im really enjoying your videos keep going and don't give up. Its not about the views or subscribers either its about teaching and helping other people out👍
Thanks for the kind words mate. I don’t have any plans on stopping any time soon, production’s just slowed down a bit because of exams.👍
slap chop really shines with models like these to save time, then i think what really helps is to come back with some choice edge highlights, adds a few more minutes per model but it brings them up another notch
The bois have turn out great good job
The results look great and I mostly use slapchop style painting myself. However I can’t help but notice, that it takes a lot of care to not mess up. I used to paint armies for a gaming buddy back in 4th and 5th edition (thanks to contrast paints he achieves great looking minis himself now 😊). One of the armies I did paint for him were Kraken Tyranids - literally hundreds of them. I think I was just as quick per model, maybe even quicker, using 3 progressive layers of drybrushing on the skin, then a single careful coat over the carapace, followed by a semi careful application of the coloured dashes most everyone puts on the carapaces.
A lot less skill and precision involved, quick and easy results. Seeing how good your slapchop drybrush looks, I‘d wager you’d also get better results in less time 😊
Man, your friend really lucked out in meeting someone willing to paint hundreds of Tyranids for him. But yeah I agree that it’s pretty easy to make mistakes with slapchop, one of the biggest issues was that I didn’t dilute the black contrast on the carapace enough and pretty much completely lost all of the definition I got from the dry brush, so I needed to come back through again at the end to bring the highlights back. I reckon if I’m more careful with the stronger pigmented colours going forward then the results will be a lot nicer.
@@shellsofiron well, it’s not like I painted all of them at once 🤣
But a box of gaunts here, contents of a starter set there, they add up. Almost 10k points back in 5th ed, including almost every forgeworld monster as well. I learned a lot of techniques I never would have practiced on my own armies. Usually got compensated by receiving a new unit for my own army per unit I painted for him. Was a good deal back then 😅
I never use straight black contrast paint anymore. I mix it 1:1 with basilicanum grey. If that doesn’t end up black enough when dry, I wash the piece with good ol‘ nuln oil, 1-2 coats usually gets the finish I like ☺️
Awesome video man! Will have to try this technique soon on all the plastic I have yet to paint!
Go for it mate, it’s so much nicer than painting dozens of fodder models one by one!
The time you have saved me is astronomical
Just bought my first starter set. Currently halfway through assembling the tyranids. I feel like a kid again. Pray for my wallet.
They look great! Noob here, trying to get the steps correct on the base coat.
Prime with black I got, but what type of paints are you using for the two dry brush coats? Acrylic, or another type of primer? Perhaps this is a redundant question but want to be sure I'm using the correct thinking here.
Awesome video, helping showcase what can be done with this method for a new person to the hobby.
Thanks mate! For the drybrush layers you can just use regular acrylics. In my case, I started out with Citadel Grey Seer, and then went over again more lightly with Citadel Corax White. Hope this helps.
If the holes of crackers are too close together, it will end up tasting bad cus all too much steam will escape. If the holes are too far apart, parts of the cracker will form little bubbles which would look and taste silly.
Ok
Cool
Interesting your comment about wet aplette and contrast - Advice has been to not use Wet pallette with contrast as they are hydrophallic so will cause degradation - did you find this? I have always used a dry pallette
Ooh, I hadn’t heard that. I didn’t encounter any issues when I painted these ones but maybe since I used it all relatively quickly it didn’t have time to degrade. I imagine if I tried to keep them on the palette overnight there might be issues.
Are your bases magnetized or something? I'm a bit curious about how you were holding them the way you were.
They are. Whenever I assemble my minis I always glue a couple of tiny magnets to the underside so that I can stick them to a jar lid that I use as a handle while I paint.
@@shellsofironDo you mind sharing what size/strength they are? I'm trying to magnetize my bases, but my first ones were too strong. I'm trying 4mmx2mm n35 magnets this Friday.
The jar lid seems like a really nice size to grip. It's fun seeing how different people end up doing the little details like these.
The magnets that I used were some that I had gotten from my local dollar store while I was living in Japan. I just checked the packaging and they don't seem to specify the strength of the magnets so I can't really help you there unfortunately, but they're roughly 12mm x 1.5mm. I had initially used some slightly thicker magnets, but once you start going over 3mm thickness they can begin to protrude out from the bottom of the base 👍. @@vinhiem6962
does slapchop work any for models that have been primed white? Because all of my unpainted minis are primed white lol
You'd still be able to use contrast paints on top for some quick and easy colouring on the models that are primed white, but you wouldn't have the shadows offered by the black undercoat.
If you have a black undercoat on hand but prefer working from a lighter basecoat, you could try starting with black and then doing a zenithal prime with your white undercoat as another way of getting some easy shadows. 👍
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Your first step to slap chop is a dry brush? You don't think that bit between building and dry brushing, you know, priming in black, was a step? Especially given that it provides the dark base under the dry brush that gives you your shadows.
Great point! I always prime in black so it had completely slipped my mind to mention it in the video but you're right, the black undercoat is super important for building depth, and the technique just wouldn't work without it.
don’t understand what ‘s going on nice video tho
He got robbed by GW for plastic, then hes robbed himself of a good result and learning experience by using slap chop
Great instruction, terrible video, too much time lapsing with the video in and out of focus, unwatchable.