I think the ballast resistor limits current by turning any amount over the rating into heat. It does not reduce voltage just amperage. The tractor looks great already, look forward to seeing more of the build ! Best of days to you and your family !
It’s really coming together nicely it’s starting to look good I pulled wheel horse for a few years then kids came in to the family so it stopped for a while then they gotten to be important so I sold everything . I really miss it but I don’t have the time any more the mind willing but the bodies not
You’re correct that works with a stock axle, however it doesn’t work with the drop axles we run. There isn’t enough clearance for a regular hex headed bolt, so we use a tapered head torx bolt. Can’t get to it because the axle is in the way. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! It was my first one. Learned a lot building it. Axle came from Vogel, it was made by Doug Rood, from Rood dog chassis works. Since I built this tractor I started making my own axles. Thanks for watching!
@@karnesmotorsports I have been thinking about making my own. I gave a thought to making some spindles for a stock axle too just to lower the front some.
$$$$ that it takes to get something like that going? $5000? the tires are... $250 for 2 of the drivers? wheels are bigger... custom? the transmission is stock? super duty 90-140 gear oil in it.. with STP OIL TREATMENT (THICK AS HONEY) to protect the gears from the brute force that the tires must put on the transaxle? that is the original motor/drivetrain configuration... drive shaft down the middle, no belt? HP of motor? i thought it wud be ... BIGGER.. V twin anyway. i suppose they come in all sizes from mild to WILD then parts break more easily.
I didn’t add up all the receipts, but there’s probably $2500 in it. A lot of the stuff I already had, I built all the weight brackets. Painted/powder coated everything myself. Plus the tractor we started with came with a ton of pulling parts. It was one of those once in a lifetime deals. This is being built for the “stock” class. It’s a 12hp motor built to the rulebook. Transaxle is stock for now until we break it. We run hy Tran in the trans axle because it’s thin and doesn’t zap horsepower. Just needs to be slippery for the quick runs a pulling tractor makes. It may get a Vtwin at some point, that’s why I put the better clutch and driver in it. Rather than rebuilding the old worn out junk one it had in it. That’s why 60s and 70s gear drive Cubs are what everyone uses. They use an automotive style clutch with a driveshaft. No belts. Tires are 24-12-12 I had on my other tractor. It will get some lawn tec 26-12-12s in the future. Built the chassis to handle whatever power plant we might use in the future. Stay tuned, I have two more kids to build tractors for, next one is a Massey Ferguson 10 body on a Cub Chassis.
Didn’t lengthen it at all. Rules don’t allow for that in the stock class. I welded in some flat bar to stiffen the frame a bit and to give some backing so I could fill the holes in the frame. Thanks for watching!
I think the ballast resistor limits current by turning any amount over the rating into heat. It does not reduce voltage just amperage. The tractor looks great already, look forward to seeing more of the build ! Best of days to you and your family !
It’s really coming together nicely it’s starting to look good I pulled wheel horse for a few years then kids came in to the family so it stopped for a while then they gotten to be important so I sold everything . I really miss it but I don’t have the time any more the mind willing but the bodies not
Don’t need to pull the front axle to get to the bolts. What you do is jack it up and push down on the axle and you can get to it
You’re correct that works with a stock axle, however it doesn’t work with the drop axles we run. There isn’t enough clearance for a regular hex headed bolt, so we use a tapered head torx bolt. Can’t get to it because the axle is in the way. Thanks for watching!
Very nice build! Did you make your drop axle or buy it through Kerber?
Thanks! It was my first one. Learned a lot building it. Axle came from Vogel, it was made by Doug Rood, from Rood dog chassis works. Since I built this tractor I started making my own axles. Thanks for watching!
@@karnesmotorsports I have been thinking about making my own. I gave a thought to making some spindles for a stock axle too just to lower the front some.
$$$$ that it takes to get something like that going? $5000? the tires are... $250 for 2 of the drivers? wheels are bigger... custom? the transmission is stock? super duty 90-140 gear oil in it.. with STP OIL TREATMENT (THICK AS HONEY) to protect the gears from the brute force that the tires must put on the transaxle? that is the original motor/drivetrain configuration... drive shaft down the middle, no belt? HP of motor? i thought it wud be ... BIGGER.. V twin anyway. i suppose they come in all sizes from mild to WILD then parts break more easily.
I didn’t add up all the receipts, but there’s probably $2500 in it. A lot of the stuff I already had, I built all the weight brackets. Painted/powder coated everything myself. Plus the tractor we started with came with a ton of pulling parts. It was one of those once in a lifetime deals. This is being built for the “stock” class. It’s a 12hp motor built to the rulebook. Transaxle is stock for now until we break it. We run hy Tran in the trans axle because it’s thin and doesn’t zap horsepower. Just needs to be slippery for the quick runs a pulling tractor makes. It may get a Vtwin at some point, that’s why I put the better clutch and driver in it. Rather than rebuilding the old worn out junk one it had in it. That’s why 60s and 70s gear drive Cubs are what everyone uses. They use an automotive style clutch with a driveshaft. No belts. Tires are 24-12-12 I had on my other tractor. It will get some lawn tec 26-12-12s in the future. Built the chassis to handle whatever power plant we might use in the future. Stay tuned, I have two more kids to build tractors for, next one is a Massey Ferguson 10 body on a Cub Chassis.
Ware did you get the tiers
They came on it. They were very dry rotted. We’ve since replaced them with cut 24/12/12 AT101’s. Awesome tire if you get them cut!
How much did you length your frame?
Didn’t lengthen it at all. Rules don’t allow for that in the stock class. I welded in some flat bar to stiffen the frame a bit and to give some backing so I could fill the holes in the frame. Thanks for watching!
What front rims are those and where can I find a set
They’re 6” Douglas wheels with 3/4”hubs. MILLER tire sells them. Or Midwest super cub. They also make them in 8”.