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For a couple years I worked with a guy that repaired printing and bookbinding machinery. A lot of this stuff was made in the 1940s and 50s in Germany. We often came across bolts and nuts that were hand made by the guy who assembled the machine. This guy had a crazy assortment of handmade wrenches and adjustable wrenches because you never knew what you'd find. So I'm sure your theory about historic drill bits being "close" is correct.
Thanks for sharing with John. I was flabbergasted about someone ordering a handmade antique set of spoon bits and expected them to be a perfect size ! I wonder who whittled the perfect size peg to drive into the spoon bit drilled hole ! The nerve? You’re doing a great job and we appreciate you. Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Nice anvil!!! I used a spoon auger years ago to bore a shaft hole through a 4x6 piece of Honduran mahogany for a 65 foot Chris Craft I was restoring. The spoon auger was used since it was not affected by grain and ran straight and true. We had to find and buy an antique one. We didn’t know how to do what you show here...
Other than in an industrial setting, furniture making is still very much make the part fit the piece. A cabinet maker I worked under would tell me to start with the ruler, but finish with the eye.
I really do have Anvil envoy. That is one handsome anvil. You have done your research well on acquiring the new one. Although i must say i was envious of your old one as well. Also you have done an excellent job on eliminating the “sing” on this new anvil too. The photography is continually improving as well. Well done John.
I have multiple 3/4" and 1/2" spoon augers from different makers and none of them are dead on in size. The worst are about 3/32" out of size which is still less than my hand wobble error. I agree with you, close enough to hand fit the joint.
You are exactly right about fitting to parts, not measurements in pre-industrial times. I work in an 18th Century Millwright Shop using 18 Century tools and methods to build the replacement waterwheel for the 1704 Newlin Grist Mill. We always cut the mortise then cut the tenon to fit. Same with the joinery for window sash or fine furniture. As for the “handle,” I can’t speak for Viking era, but 1600s and 1700s would use a Wimble or bit-brace for holes up to 1 1/2 or 2 thumbs in diameter, a “T” handle for larger. Augers go back to the Middle Ages, even Roman Times for larger holes. Speaking of sizing to fit, early craftsmen had each bit burnt into its own Wimble. When they got more bits, they began to have one brace and each bit burnt into a wooden adapter because it was far easier to get an exact fit with wooden taper tenons than in wrought iron.
I might finally get around to making some hardware for my brace at home soon. This is an interesting reference video. I don't know about historical work, but most of the things I make are made to fit their own parts with only very loose association with anything standardized. I tend to pretty much only make one off projects, so following a common standard isn't worth the time and effort needed to check the dimensions of every individual part with adequate precision, I punch and drift holes more than I drill them and I make rivers from scratch more often than I use prefabricated rivets.
you're absolutely correct on measurements. The best example in blacksmithing I can give is Japanese swords, even if you look at swords from the same master from the same time period... no two are identical or even bend in the same degree (the bend is caused by how the cutting edge is tempered). The other parts for the sword like the handle, guards, and holder are then made to fit that exact sword because the individuality of each blade is respected by every different maker of each part (it is still this way today that the master blade polisher is different from the master engraver who does the tsuba). I think it is the same with our modern knives and tools that are hand-made, even if it is almost identical on technique or are on a production line they each have "personality" that comes from the soul of the craftsperson.
@@BlackBearForge I realised, i should probably more precise-. It is just that you made your point so abundantly clear I had to leave a comment. In general the system of weights and dimensions is complex, and usually only valid for small regions. Form the Middle Ages we known it would vary already from town to town, however they would have the same terms for the measurements, This makes it so hard for historians, as we cannot put an exact number, even if we do know that there was a system.. With Vikings it is even more difficult, as they did not leave a written record. So all we can do is to look at the actual work, e.g. ships and build a hypothesis on how a system might have worked. It is, however sure, that there was no universal system available. There was a system of weights, as payments were usually done in silver, whereby the silver was the valuable part, not the coin. That is a coin was hacked to bits until the agreed upon weight was reached. That is why there is so much hacksilver... Since the Vikings were also great traders and craftsmen, I am sure though,m that they would have had some way of communicating different lengths, volumes and so on. This is where I think you are right. They make it as precise as possible to the customers wish,, but in the end make a few adjustment to the peg or or whatever it was they needed the hole for. Anyway, enough lecturing. I am looking forward to your next videos. Cheers.
I would think Vikings would say “du får det du får når du får det” “You get what you get when you get it” at least that’s what my old grad papa use to say and he was a crust old grouch Norwegian, close enough to a Viking 😝 Thanks for the Video John!
@@johnjude2685 yes my grandfather, made me who I am today, he was unforgiving and hard but always fair. He taught me hard lessons at an early age that have served me well throughout my life. I attribute my success in the Army and many other trials and tribulations to him, when ever I have thought about quitting I hear his voice “ No one is coming to rescue you and the gods only help those who help themselves”. Now a days he would be considered (Abusive) but I would not trade the self reliance he taught for all the gold in California. Thanks John
That new anvil is a real workhorse. Dead quiet (nice job btw) and nice edges and surfaces. The old one was nice and most would be very happy to have it, but it's top edges were extremely rounded and past due for ANOTHER resurfacing.
With your new anvil having that small shelf, it looked to work to your advantage having the extra width out in front for straightening the piece of spring. Very nice looking anvil.
Very cool project! I also agree with your precision theory - it's the most practical way to go! Plus - drill bits (cup bits, actually) weren't that efficient but were simple to make and use back then so you made a selection of sizes and used their holes as your standards...
Mortice and Tennon Magazine issue 3 has a great article on measurement and the history of. Iirc, a German book from the 1800's recorded 180+ variations on the 'inch' just from Germany alone. The tools and crafts of the Viking and Anglo Scandinavian age that I have studied do not seem to have a set size as much as they do approximate and I do not recall seing a 'ruler' (though now I feel I need to look further.) I hope someday to make a few spoon bits for re-enactment and general building. Thanks for this video and the encouragement it brings.
Love to seeing those nice crisp corners along with a flat smooth face. My thoughts are new equipment is very enjoyable and rewarding. That’s good looking spoon too. It’s always great to watch you work. Now time for me to get back out in the shop.
I'm glad to see you working with coil spring. I've got a coil spring that is somewhat "special" special to me and I tried forging a small piece of it a while back. It was tough to work with. I wanted to get a feel for how it moved and after hammering on it, I started regretting my choice. If you have any ideas on what I could make that would be a good heirloom type item, I'd love to hear about it, maybe you could even make a video on making an heirloom type of thing. Great video and keep it up my friend.
Hi John, could have used this video a few years ago at the guild. We hosted a gathering with MABA and the theam was Viking tools. I was involved in helping with making a Spoon Bit. I think we had 3 or 4 attempts before a keeper. I now can follow right along with each hammer blow. Your new anvil sounds solid, nice. Thanks for sharing. Bob
Based on some information from machine shop classes I took years ago standard sizes didn't really come into being until the industrial revolution with the need for interchangeable parts.
..Saw a video on log house building where they bored a hole and used a bit oversized square pegs. This way the peg was sure to fit. they also mentioned this was used in boat building in Scandinavia and European regions 100's of years ago...
Sir, your videos are looking awesome. And I often use your videos as inspiration to get out to my forge. I even have a gas one coming soon. Great work and content. You make it look easy
Some one should tell that fellow who returnd the spoons to you John the VIKINGS never had CNC tooling back then . Just like you said John if it works its good ( well some thing like that ) . SO thank you John for showing how it was not how we think it should be . :)
Very nice video this week John. Project turned out very well there. Can't wait to see ur next videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Forge On. Keep Making. God Bless.
Yeah, standard measurements simply didn't exist and repeatable precision in the way we think wasn't a thing at all until like 1800 and the invention of machining, so your guess is spot on. And think about it; where would they have gotten the standard parts to fit the standard holes to make such a thing worthwhile anyway? There's a few good videos on the origins of standard measurements (I forget by who) and precision and machining by Machine Thinking on YT. Definitely a worthwhile watch of a good number of their videos.
Hello John It is a very teachfull Video I have a pair of coilsprings from my former hunting car a Lada niva And i will try this So i am looking forward to the next Video . Take care have a good new week and not so much snow Yours Frank Galetzka
Very nice work! Talking about the handles, I've come to the conclusion that the wooden handles would have an escutcheon plate of iron or bronze on both sides of the hole, or at least one side. I have a "modern" auger handle that has the OEM metal reinforcement around the hole so you can quickly swap out difference size bits. I can't imagine that guys way back in the day wouldn't have similarly reinforced their wood handles. The tang being a wedge, it would have been putting tremendous stress along the grain with every turn, while also slowly wearing it's way through the handle. An escutcheon plate on the bottom of the handle would stop the tang from burrowing through while the tang was also helping secure the plate in place via the pressure applied. I could envision a rawhide wrap securing the wood at either side of the through hole for the tang, or maybe rawhide actually holding the escutcheon in place and helping to prevent splitting. We'll likely never know how they did it exactly, but I think I might be on the right track. If nothing else, it's a fun thought exercise.
Most of the old ones I have are simple T handles without reinforcement. But they are only 100 years old or so and not viking age. These augers all had an iron ring that implies some form of inline handle.
I would imagine the common handles were just wooden t handles. The fancy ones might have a bronze socket built into the handle to keep it from stripping out as quickly.
@@BlackBearForge Yeah, agree. I try to get the old stuff. Have a (literal) ton of dies I had to make room for off an old pacific press brake because I’m 99.999% sure its 4140 steel. Thanks for replying! God bless!
I wonder if these could be made out of mild steel and hardened like the European-style scythes. Instead of sharpening with a stone, they are sharpened by peening the edge, which also work hardens the edge at the same time. This is done with a small stump anvil much like the ones you have shown from Mastermyr.
Peening would probably result in a wavy edge that won't cut a smooth hole. I also think that even though fairly soft, scythe blades are higher carbon than mild steel, mild steel doesn't work harden well enough to hold an edge. Plus when repairing my own Austrian made blades , after hitting a rock, light grinding throws more sparks than mild steel would. In use I peen but still use a stone after every 10 minutes or so of cutting. Traditionally a scythe stone is carried in a horn or metal holster with water so it is always ready to use for quick touch ups.
would be interesting to see a comparison between forge welding with and without any flux in different steels. how hard is it to get a weld in modern mild and tools steels without any flux?
Love the channel, John. I’m curious about getting that induction forge you made a video about but I’m worried it might rack up my electric bill by a lot. Using my electric radiator for less than 100 hours a month adds $20 to $30 extra to my monthly bill, so I’m not sure if an induction forge would be budget friendly.
I have a question that popped up in a Facebook group. They were looking for something to help quiten down their anvil. I referred them to your video on the silicone. They asked if Flex Seal would do the same thing. Do you think it would?
How hard is it to incorporate stainless into pattern welded damascus? Want to make some friends some kitchen knives, I know it has to be oxygen free to weld, but other than that, I don't know squat about the welding heat, is it lower or higher than mild steel? How about heat treatment? Oil quench? Or water? Maybe air(although doubtful)? Thinking about using coil spring and stainless sheet from restaurant tables, etc. I don't have any plans for adding mild steel.
I wonder who the Karen or Darrin is that expected micrometer specs on a hand forged drill? I bet every tradesman in town knows who they are and avoid them.
Thanks for the reply! I did a staircase for a machinist one time. He told me he works to 10 thousandth of an inch. He said you carpenters work to 1/64th right? Haha riiighttt buddy.
Hey john i was wondering if you could help me i recently bought a handful of railroad tie plates and im trying to figure out what to do with them and was wondering if these have any potential of being useful for something i read somewhere that they were q235 steel or a3 with a moderate carbon content would this be a good steel for knifemaking i appreciate any input you could provide they are double shoulder with eight holes Thank you
Wile watching yet a other hugely uninformative video, I found myself drifting into the operations I would have to do while forming a square drive shank for a bit and brace auger, and postulating alternatives to the swage for forming the spoon. Had to watch it a second or was that thrd time. That is the beauty of your work.
Know anything about a hammer auger? Basically a CURVED wood type chisel on a hammer handle. Chisel about six inches long. VERY old. About sizes of tools....look up definition of cubit. My hand span....fingers spread is 9 inches +-. :)
Good video. I have a question I am new to this on a previous video when you discussed maintaining a coal fire you said the coal burns and turns to coke and that's what heats the metal I was looking at centaur forge and they sold coke for the same price as the coal would it be better to just buy the coke and use that.
Coke is a good fuel, but is a bit different than what you create at the forge as you work with coal. One of the big things is that it tends to go out if the air blast completely quits. So an electric blower that can run a small volume constantly is a big help. A big advantage is that there is almost no smoke
Understandable and thank you for your time I enjoy all your UA-cam content that you do put out very knowledgeable and I've learned a few things from you
Well I don’t see the coal forge on and the gas forge is no where to be seen.....are you using those coils to heat the iron? Your new anvil sure is a beauty bet you are happy with it. Enjoy the snow John ☃️
Many old coil springs are 5160. But there is no guarantee, so its always a good idea to do some test hardening to make sure it works for the intended purpose.
This video was sponsored by Skillshare - The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/blackbearforge03211
Thanks for another great video John, and thanks to Skillshare for sponsoring it, they've picked an amazing channel to support!
I don't think your customer realized the difference between a blacksmith and a machinist. Nice work.
For a couple years I worked with a guy that repaired printing and bookbinding machinery. A lot of this stuff was made in the 1940s and 50s in Germany. We often came across bolts and nuts that were hand made by the guy who assembled the machine. This guy had a crazy assortment of handmade wrenches and adjustable wrenches because you never knew what you'd find. So I'm sure your theory about historic drill bits being "close" is correct.
The method I was taught when I was a kid by a master woodworker from Greece was cut to fit not cut to measure....
Thanks for sharing with John. I was flabbergasted about someone ordering a handmade antique set of spoon bits and expected them to be a perfect size ! I wonder who whittled the perfect size peg to drive into the spoon bit drilled hole ! The nerve? You’re doing a great job and we appreciate you. Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
There are lots of people out there who want to brag about having a hand forged tool, but still expect mass production precision and features.
"Straightening with this bending fork". Now you can tell people you have and unbending fork too. Looks like you like your new anvil.
Nice anvil!!! I used a spoon auger years ago to bore a shaft hole through a 4x6 piece of Honduran mahogany for a 65 foot Chris Craft I was restoring. The spoon auger was used since it was not affected by grain and ran straight and true. We had to find and buy an antique one. We didn’t know how to do what you show here...
I'm still amazed how quiet your anvil is, it's so comfortable to watch your videos!
Other than in an industrial setting, furniture making is still very much make the part fit the piece. A cabinet maker I worked under would tell me to start with the ruler, but finish with the eye.
I really do have Anvil envoy. That is one handsome anvil. You have done your research well on acquiring the new one. Although i must say i was envious of your old one as well. Also you have done an excellent job on eliminating the “sing” on this new anvil too. The photography is continually improving as well.
Well done John.
I have multiple 3/4" and 1/2" spoon augers from different makers and none of them are dead on in size. The worst are about 3/32" out of size which is still less than my hand wobble error. I agree with you, close enough to hand fit the joint.
You are exactly right about fitting to parts, not measurements in pre-industrial times. I work in an 18th Century Millwright Shop using 18 Century tools and methods to build the replacement waterwheel for the 1704 Newlin Grist Mill. We always cut the mortise then cut the tenon to fit. Same with the joinery for window sash or fine furniture. As for the “handle,” I can’t speak for Viking era, but 1600s and 1700s would use a Wimble or bit-brace for holes up to 1 1/2 or 2 thumbs in diameter, a “T” handle for larger. Augers go back to the Middle Ages, even Roman Times for larger holes.
Speaking of sizing to fit, early craftsmen had each bit burnt into its own Wimble. When they got more bits, they began to have one brace and each bit burnt into a wooden adapter because it was far easier to get an exact fit with wooden taper tenons than in wrought iron.
Wimble is a new term for me. Thanks for the input
"We dont really worry about making part A fit part B, we make them all fit the ruler..."
The new anvil looks great, like it belongs there. You deserve it, and it's got features that make sense.
Your video productions are streets ahead of the old ones. Great Job John.
I was thinking the same thing, remember when he had 4k subscribers?
@@mikesellers8007 It must be the new anvil... 🙂
It’s been a while since I tuned in. A beautiful new anvil and all handwork. And how quiet is it. Love your work John👍
I might finally get around to making some hardware for my brace at home soon. This is an interesting reference video. I don't know about historical work, but most of the things I make are made to fit their own parts with only very loose association with anything standardized. I tend to pretty much only make one off projects, so following a common standard isn't worth the time and effort needed to check the dimensions of every individual part with adequate precision, I punch and drift holes more than I drill them and I make rivers from scratch more often than I use prefabricated rivets.
My dad's a welder/mechanic. And he's had to make many a tool for himself and other people. And they still work!
you're absolutely correct on measurements. The best example in blacksmithing I can give is Japanese swords, even if you look at swords from the same master from the same time period... no two are identical or even bend in the same degree (the bend is caused by how the cutting edge is tempered). The other parts for the sword like the handle, guards, and holder are then made to fit that exact sword because the individuality of each blade is respected by every different maker of each part (it is still this way today that the master blade polisher is different from the master engraver who does the tsuba). I think it is the same with our modern knives and tools that are hand-made, even if it is almost identical on technique or are on a production line they each have "personality" that comes from the soul of the craftsperson.
I must say that book is awesome. All the projects are interesting.spoon came out cool👍👍🔥🔥
Thanks a bunch!
I could definitely see a hardy tool being made that fits the cupped part, if you had to make a lot of these. Something like an internal swage.
That wider step on your anvil is nice, a bigger work space on your anvil. Looks really good.
speaking as an archaeologist who specialises in metallurgy: I do think you have got it absolutely right!
Thanks for the input
@@BlackBearForge I realised, i should probably more precise-. It is just that you made your point so abundantly clear I had to leave a comment. In general the system of weights and dimensions is complex, and usually only valid for small regions. Form the Middle Ages we known it would vary already from town to town, however they would have the same terms for the measurements, This makes it so hard for historians, as we cannot put an exact number, even if we do know that there was a system.. With Vikings it is even more difficult, as they did not leave a written record. So all we can do is to look at the actual work, e.g. ships and build a hypothesis on how a system might have worked. It is, however sure, that there was no universal system available. There was a system of weights, as payments were usually done in silver, whereby the silver was the valuable part, not the coin. That is a coin was hacked to bits until the agreed upon weight was reached. That is why there is so much hacksilver... Since the Vikings were also great traders and craftsmen, I am sure though,m that they would have had some way of communicating different lengths, volumes and so on. This is where I think you are right. They make it as precise as possible to the customers wish,, but in the end make a few adjustment to the peg or or whatever it was they needed the hole for. Anyway, enough lecturing. I am looking forward to your next videos. Cheers.
I would think Vikings would say “du får det du får når du får det” “You get what you get when you get it” at least that’s what my old grad papa use to say and he was a crust old grouch Norwegian, close enough to a Viking 😝 Thanks for the Video John!
Charles Z ; Sir,So enriched to have good memories,As I have also about my grandpa of few words
To true! And as for standardize your wquipment, it´s a Johny come lately, mid 1800 or so... before that it was "more or less ish". 😎
@@johnjude2685 yes my grandfather, made me who I am today, he was unforgiving and hard but always fair. He taught me hard lessons at an early age that have served me well throughout my life. I attribute my success in the Army and many other trials and tribulations to him, when ever I have thought about quitting I hear his voice “ No one is coming to rescue you and the gods only help those who help themselves”. Now a days he would be considered (Abusive) but I would not trade the self reliance he taught for all the gold in California. Thanks John
Pretty much the same in Swedish "Du får det du får när du får det"
I suspect that older people everywhere have always said something like that.
That new anvil is a real workhorse. Dead quiet (nice job btw) and nice edges and surfaces. The old one was nice and most would be very happy to have it, but it's top edges were extremely rounded and past due for ANOTHER resurfacing.
I always love a Blacksmith lesson coming from you Sir.
Thanks again for teaching all of us Mr. John Switzer
Looks like you're liking the new anvil.
With your new anvil having that small shelf, it looked to work to your advantage having the extra width out in front for straightening the piece of spring. Very nice looking anvil.
Very cool project!
I also agree with your precision theory - it's the most practical way to go!
Plus - drill bits (cup bits, actually) weren't that efficient but were simple to make and use back then so you made a selection of sizes and used their holes as your standards...
Mortice and Tennon Magazine issue 3 has a great article on measurement and the history of. Iirc, a German book from the 1800's recorded 180+ variations on the 'inch' just from Germany alone.
The tools and crafts of the Viking and Anglo Scandinavian age that I have studied do not seem to have a set size as much as they do approximate and I do not recall seing a 'ruler' (though now I feel I need to look further.)
I hope someday to make a few spoon bits for re-enactment and general building. Thanks for this video and the encouragement it brings.
I'll have to see if I have that issue
Love to seeing those nice crisp corners along with a flat smooth face. My thoughts are new equipment is very enjoyable and rewarding. That’s good looking spoon too. It’s always great to watch you work. Now time for me to get back out in the shop.
Really like the new anvil
The new anvil looks great and sounds great thanks for bringing us along .
Pretty sure your theory on the sizing is spot on.
I'm glad to see you working with coil spring. I've got a coil spring that is somewhat "special" special to me and I tried forging a small piece of it a while back. It was tough to work with. I wanted to get a feel for how it moved and after hammering on it, I started regretting my choice. If you have any ideas on what I could make that would be a good heirloom type item, I'd love to hear about it, maybe you could even make a video on making an heirloom type of thing. Great video and keep it up my friend.
Hi John, could have used this video a few years ago at the guild. We hosted a gathering with MABA and the theam was Viking tools. I was involved in helping with making a Spoon Bit. I think we had 3 or 4 attempts before a keeper. I now can follow right along with each hammer blow.
Your new anvil sounds solid, nice. Thanks for sharing. Bob
Based on some information from machine shop classes I took years ago standard sizes didn't really come into being until the industrial revolution with the need for interchangeable parts.
..Saw a video on log house building where they bored a hole and used a bit oversized square pegs. This way the peg was sure to fit. they also mentioned this was used in boat building in Scandinavia and European regions 100's of years ago...
Yes. That was, and in places still is, common practice. It's simple and straightforward.
Enjoy thes builds. Look forward 2 part 2
Grammercy tools sells machined spoon bits for a brace, but the shanks aren't long enough for carving out the inside of wooden shoes.
Nice work and even nicer snark.
Yes more from that book please
It will be an ongoing long term project.
Looking forward to the rest of this project!
Love it I’m looking at making some Viking tools
Very nice to see you working with that new anvil. It do sound nice. You will figure all the rest out in time. Peace.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skills and Time.
My pleasure!
That anvil is a beast! And what about the smith!
i see that new anvil is workin out purdy good !!!!!
Always good to see your videos, how about you show us the tweaks you had to do to your anvil tools after you changed it? im really curious!
Sir, your videos are looking awesome. And I often use your videos as inspiration to get out to my forge. I even have a gas one coming soon. Great work and content. You make it look easy
Some one should tell that fellow who returnd the spoons to you John the VIKINGS never had CNC tooling back then .
Just like you said John if it works its good ( well some thing like that ) .
SO thank you John for showing how it was not how we think it should be . :)
Sadly, modern customers expect modern precision.
Great job John.
Very nice video this week John. Project turned out very well there. Can't wait to see ur next videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Forge On. Keep Making. God Bless.
Anvil is nice and quiet 👍🏼
Yeah, standard measurements simply didn't exist and repeatable precision in the way we think wasn't a thing at all until like 1800 and the invention of machining, so your guess is spot on. And think about it; where would they have gotten the standard parts to fit the standard holes to make such a thing worthwhile anyway? There's a few good videos on the origins of standard measurements (I forget by who) and precision and machining by Machine Thinking on YT. Definitely a worthwhile watch of a good number of their videos.
Mr. John, another great video. I could see you using this in future work on you cabin up on the hill.
Eagerly awaiting part two so I can give it a go.
thank you for doing this
Must have been hard to start hitting a brand new anvil. Like the first scratch on the new tractor.
Not at all. It will be sad when I make the first big ding or chisel cut. But it is atool meant for hard work.
It's not hard at all. It REALLY is exciting when you forge on a new anvil.
nice work john. Nice work apron. I assume your talented wife made that for you. Wonderful.
No, the apron is from www.forge-aprons.com/
Another awesome video! Thank you.
John, with that new anvil you are beginning to look like a real blacksmith.........LOL!!
Hello John
It is a very teachfull Video
I have a pair of coilsprings from my former hunting car a Lada niva
And i will try this
So i am looking forward to the next Video .
Take care have a good new week and not so much snow
Yours Frank Galetzka
Very nice work! Talking about the handles, I've come to the conclusion that the wooden handles would have an escutcheon plate of iron or bronze on both sides of the hole, or at least one side. I have a "modern" auger handle that has the OEM metal reinforcement around the hole so you can quickly swap out difference size bits. I can't imagine that guys way back in the day wouldn't have similarly reinforced their wood handles. The tang being a wedge, it would have been putting tremendous stress along the grain with every turn, while also slowly wearing it's way through the handle. An escutcheon plate on the bottom of the handle would stop the tang from burrowing through while the tang was also helping secure the plate in place via the pressure applied. I could envision a rawhide wrap securing the wood at either side of the through hole for the tang, or maybe rawhide actually holding the escutcheon in place and helping to prevent splitting. We'll likely never know how they did it exactly, but I think I might be on the right track. If nothing else, it's a fun thought exercise.
Most of the old ones I have are simple T handles without reinforcement. But they are only 100 years old or so and not viking age. These augers all had an iron ring that implies some form of inline handle.
dang, beautiful anvil!!!!!!!!!!!!!! good job too. haahhahahah Ron
buenos dias , gracias x. compartir conocimientos
Great content, thanks for sharing!
I would imagine the common handles were just wooden t handles. The fancy ones might have a bronze socket built into the handle to keep it from stripping out as quickly.
These all seem yo have been found with an iron band still around the bit. Which implies some sort of inline handle
Love the Mastermyr projects.
Coil spring is probably 5160?
Thanks John!
Probably, but the newer the car, the more likely its something different these days.
@@BlackBearForge
Yeah, agree. I try to get the old stuff. Have a (literal) ton of dies I had to make room for off an old pacific press brake because I’m 99.999% sure its 4140 steel.
Thanks for replying! God bless!
Thanks
Gorgeous anvil
Frank
I wonder if these could be made out of mild steel and hardened like the European-style scythes. Instead of sharpening with a stone, they are sharpened by peening the edge, which also work hardens the edge at the same time. This is done with a small stump anvil much like the ones you have shown from Mastermyr.
Peening would probably result in a wavy edge that won't cut a smooth hole. I also think that even though fairly soft, scythe blades are higher carbon than mild steel, mild steel doesn't work harden well enough to hold an edge. Plus when repairing my own Austrian made blades , after hitting a rock, light grinding throws more sparks than mild steel would. In use I peen but still use a stone after every 10 minutes or so of cutting. Traditionally a scythe stone is carried in a horn or metal holster with water so it is always ready to use for quick touch ups.
hand tools will always create deviations
would be interesting to see a comparison between forge welding with and without any flux in different steels. how hard is it to get a weld in modern mild and tools steels without any flux?
I may need another lifetime to learn more trades
Love the channel, John.
I’m curious about getting that induction forge you made a video about but I’m worried it might rack up my electric bill by a lot. Using my electric radiator for less than 100 hours a month adds $20 to $30 extra to my monthly bill, so I’m not sure if an induction forge would be budget friendly.
While I haven't used it full time, my rough calculations are that it will cost less than I pay for coal or propane for a similar amount of shop time.
@@BlackBearForge Thanks. I might give it a shot. One thing I also like is that it’s safer since no carbon monoxide.
Doesn't matter if you build it to specs if Tab A doesn't fit in Slot B
Hi love the work
I have a question that popped up in a Facebook group. They were looking for something to help quiten down their anvil. I referred them to your video on the silicone. They asked if Flex Seal would do the same thing. Do you think it would?
Maybe,
You should have just swapped ends and made the other end as big as you wanted
How hard is it to incorporate stainless into pattern welded damascus? Want to make some friends some kitchen knives, I know it has to be oxygen free to weld, but other than that, I don't know squat about the welding heat, is it lower or higher than mild steel? How about heat treatment? Oil quench? Or water? Maybe air(although doubtful)? Thinking about using coil spring and stainless sheet from restaurant tables, etc. I don't have any plans for adding mild steel.
I have no idea. I rarely make damascus and never work in stainless.
Ничего не понятно, но ОЧЕНЬ интересно!
Ha JohnI I love that Anvel how does it feel to you thanks for sharing ⚒️
I wonder who the Karen or Darrin is that expected micrometer specs on a hand forged drill? I bet every tradesman in town knows who they are and avoid them.
It is way more common than you might think.
Thanks for the reply! I did a staircase for a machinist one time. He told me he works to 10 thousandth of an inch. He said you carpenters work to 1/64th right? Haha riiighttt buddy.
Hey john i was wondering if you could help me i recently bought a handful of railroad tie plates and im trying to figure out what to do with them and was wondering if these have any potential of being useful for something i read somewhere that they were q235 steel or a3 with a moderate carbon content would this be a good steel for knifemaking i appreciate any input you could provide they are double shoulder with eight holes Thank you
I'm afraid its not a material I have ever used. Do some test forging and hardening to see how it behaves.
Wile watching yet a other hugely uninformative video, I found myself drifting into the operations I would have to do while forming a square drive shank for a bit and brace auger, and postulating alternatives to the swage for forming the spoon. Had to watch it a second or was that thrd time. That is the beauty of your work.
Know anything about a hammer auger? Basically a CURVED wood type chisel on a hammer handle. Chisel about six inches long. VERY old. About sizes of tools....look up definition of cubit. My hand span....fingers spread is 9 inches +-. :)
Good video. I have a question I am new to this on a previous video when you discussed maintaining a coal fire you said the coal burns and turns to coke and that's what heats the metal I was looking at centaur forge and they sold coke for the same price as the coal would it be better to just buy the coke and use that.
Coke is a good fuel, but is a bit different than what you create at the forge as you work with coal. One of the big things is that it tends to go out if the air blast completely quits. So an electric blower that can run a small volume constantly is a big help. A big advantage is that there is almost no smoke
@@BlackBearForge thank you that is very helpful. Also thanks for all of the videos
I don't know if this is a good spot to ask can you make a pair of horse hoof nippers I've looked all over youtube and haven't seen a set made
Not something I have ever made or looked into.
I could send some pic of the set I have I'm a farrier and would like to see a pair made and If you take on commission work I would be interested
@@thomasgoodemoot I'm afraid they really aren't something I am interested in making.
Understandable and thank you for your time I enjoy all your UA-cam content that you do put out very knowledgeable and I've learned a few things from you
Square wood peg in a round hole is my guess how it was remedied.
John, who makes the guillotine tool you used in this video?
Its the Smithin Magician sold by Blacksmith Supply. www.blacksmithsupply.com/Smithin-Magician_c_56.html
What is that you are using to make the rounds on?
Its a swage block ua-cam.com/video/NQmZi6s4dRw/v-deo.html
So John, how do you like your new anvil?
Its been great
How are you liking the new anvil John?
Its been great. I really find the additional work areas useful
@@BlackBearForge glad to hear it!
Hopefully you survived the “Snowmagedden” okay too. I measured about 21” just west of Greeley.
Well I don’t see the coal forge on and the gas forge is no where to be seen.....are you using those coils to heat the iron? Your new anvil sure is a beauty bet you are happy with it. Enjoy the snow John ☃️
This was done in the gas forge
Gets turned off for filming
what steel is a spring?
Many old coil springs are 5160. But there is no guarantee, so its always a good idea to do some test hardening to make sure it works for the intended purpose.
A new anvil I spy there
ua-cam.com/video/npvRHmAUubc/v-deo.html
@@BlackBearForge
I’ll be saving my penny’s 🤣 thankyou for all the inspiration
The Bible says not to covet "thy neighbor's wife', so I may not be too condemned or coveting his anvil!
FOR coveting his anvil! My F key on the keyboard seems to be quitting!
#AnvilEnvy
Cubits, handbreadths, finger, hands, strides, were all average measurements, not exactly the same.
Thanks for the info Ron.